Edgingage

I just would love to see/learn the DRL wiring AND FUNCTIONALITY for those headlamps. And also as importantly to know if those headlights really produce much better visibility than the not-that-good OEM projector type. Would the high beam also activate through a shutter up and down to produce longer (upper) visibility but not really brighter visibility? And last, in the oemassive website I don't see clarification if the price is for only one unit or for the kit of two units. It doesn't say right or left unit so, I'd assume the price of the kit... They look good, they're tenting...; but would they actually work (illuminate) better than the stock?

Sorry Ron, I checked the battery voltage and it was reading 12.46V, I thought it was fully charged, I didn't know there is a difference between fully charged by the car or by a charger.... I also knew that the ambient temp was about the same both days... I'm learning; now I know better. Thank you and others, sincerely.

Hello WWWPerfA_ZN0W and all: I started your experiment (charging the battery first time with the ignition on), but I interrupted it (I got too chicken lol). Two-three things happened during the first 4-5 minutes that I wasn't expecting or I just don't know enough, adding to a couple of other things that I didn't get clarification before hand, and therefore I didn't know what to expect: - Firstly, I don't know if all the accessories (climate, radio, lights, etc) needed to be on or off with the ignition on. The dash panel was lighted with the check engine light on, and the console panel was also lighted with climate, radio, gps and phone searching on. Headlights were also on (automatic). So, I just don't know if they all needed to be on as well, or all off. So, I switched everything off but with the ignition still on. And with the ignition on I couldn't lock up the doors (I pressed the door bottom down but after 1-2 seconds all doors unlocked again). I tried a couple of times with the same result. So, no, with the ignition on the doors can't be locked up. - Secondly, there was a constant high-pitch sound coming from the engine compartment, I guess it's the computer either waiting for the car to start or ...I don't know. It's the same high-pitch sound you get when you press the start bottom but don't start the car. The difference is that when you press the start button but don't start the car that high-pitch sound eventually goes away after about 1 minute. It didn't go away during the 4-5 minutes your experiment lasted. lol. - Thirdly, as that high-pitch (computer?) sound didn't go away, I was afraid that the computer may fry. I switched the ignition off, sorry (the noise went away). Now, during all that time (about 4-5 minutes) the charger progression bars were not increasing as an indication that the battery was actually getting progressively charged. In other words: with the ignition on, apparently the battery was not maintaining/increasing enough charge, it looks like the ignition was draining about the same current the battery was getting from the charger. The reason I think so it's because as soon as I switched the ignition off, the charger progression bars started to increase, indicating that the battery was increasing its charge. I had the charger selection at 7A/12V. I initially (by mistake) almost put it on the recondition mode at 14.4V!!!; everything would have gotten fried, I believe :( I also want to tell you that, before I initiated this experiment, I checked again the battery CCA and it's reading 856 again. So, I think you and others were right regarding the way I was taking the measurements. Probably I didn't have the clamps/clips well positioned when I got the lower reading, and therefore I DO sincerely apologize about that (that was the main reason for this tread). I should have done what I learned some time ago: measure TWICE! (cut once lol). Now, if you could please clarify about the accessories and headlights (on or off), and also about the high-pitch sound/noise cause, and you think I should still retry to recharge the battery with the ignition on, just let me know, although you also told me I should do it the very first time I'll charge the battery so, probably I shouldn't try any more. Just let me know what you think when you can. I thank you and everyone very much.

Never mind my comment; deleted. Thank you.

I believe having seen that type of visors on Japanese vehicles. Maybe check with a Toyota dealer (for some reason that make is what comes to mind...) If I see them again I'm going to post the make here. If I can reach the owner I'll ask and post.

Hello Todd: Thank you VERY MUCH for all your helpful answers. I almost kindly ask akirby which tool he'd suggest for me buying to specifically test coolant dilution (I don't have any tools to test coolants). Todd, thanks again: the dealer refilled it with fluorescent green (C)VC-5. According to the info provided in another thread (thank you folks), later confirmed by Ford Canada, green VC-5 is not compatible with any Edge model. That's why the dealer went ahead and replaced it again at their expense; this time with the correct (C)VC-13DL-G. Again, thank you very much.

First of all, I really thank you all for your concerns, advise and opinions. I'm going to explain what my real concern is: In another thread, I asked for advise regarding a wrong coolant "my" dealer put in. After quite a few emails back and forth, and Ford Canada involved, the dealer agreed to put the correct coolant at their expense (it was their mistake). Now, when that happened I wasn't sure (I didn't know) the type, the procedure, and not even the great importance of the correct coolant AND the correct mix (I learned those things after I posted my question in this great forum). Because if the dealer got it wrong several times (by their standard procedure) I thought it shouldn't be that important. But THANKS to you folks I learned a lot about coolant (still learning) and got the strength to put up a battle with the dealer that I "won" (not really). So, according to all the valuable info I've been getting here since that dealer-coolant event, I figured out that the dealer got it wrong four (4) times at once: how is it possible that: 1- they refilled using the wrong coolant (I could get it wrong; but how come the dealer can get that wrong?) 2- they refilled with only one 4qts-jug of concentrated coolant (do the math: 4 qts of coolant diluted in 8 qts of water is only a 33/67 coolant/water dilution) 3- they did only one (1) drain and then refilled it with the above mentioned (4 qts of concentrate + water to fill up the 11.7qts system) 4- they used tap water; yes, tap water to dilute and refill. So, the above is their SOP (Standard Operating Procedure). Of course I don't know how many water pumps have gone bad around here over the years; I have no access to those records... Now the real why I was thinking to add more concentrated coolant (hence my original question): When they finally refilled with the correct coolant, they told me they "did the process three times". Do you folks know which "process", how they did it? Me neither. I can only assume that they did it wrongly once again because that's their SOP. So this time, for the whole three-times "process", they used only three (3) jugs of 4-qts factory pre-diluted coolant. Great! (you would think) But I'm not really sure. Why: - what did they refill it with after the first two times they drained it? Tap water only? Or 1 jug of prediluted coolant + tap water in the first two refills? I don't know (they didn't want to describe what/how they did it) - did they drain and refill with tap water twice and then drain and did the final refill with 3 jugs of factory prediluted coolant? That may be great; I just don't know. And... what about the tap water trapped in the system after they drained the third time (IF so they really did it three times; I don't know). They normally drain and refill only once as per their SOP. In summary (and really sorry for my rant), I don't really know what proportion/dilution ended up in my cooling system. The best I can assume is that it ended up with almost 3 jugs of factory prediluted coolant to complete the 11.7 qts of total volume with the tap water trapped in the system. That's why I wanted to know how beneficial will be to add more concentrated coolant to the system. I'm thinking to remove the mix of prediluted coolant with trapped tap water from the coolant bottle, and then add the same amount of concentrated coolant in the bottle (several times) until the whole jug of concentrated coolant is in. I think it'll be a little bit better than what is right now in the cooling system. What do you folks think? After all the above details, if you think what it's currently in my coolant system is good enough to leave like that, just let me know by all means, please. Again, really sorry for my ranting frustration (with "my" dealer ) I think I also asked in some other thread if anybody knows the approximate volume remaining trapped in system after a drain. Thank you all for your great advise and opinions; I really appreciate them all. Sorry again for my lengthy writing.

Thank you Handfiler!

Hey folks: Is there any harm to the cooling system to run it all in only concentrated antifreeze/coolant, without any water dilution? Water is an oxidant (corrosive) per se. Coolant/antifreeze has also anti-corrosive additives. I was thinking that the less water and the more concentration of anti-corrosive additives per total volume in the cooling system the more protected the system would be. I know it'll cost a little bit more money (around 30% more), but would this better protect the system against failures, particularly better protection against water pump failure? Your opinions and advise are always very welcome, please. Thanks in advance.

Hello Znow and all Thanks for all your answers! I have the Canadian version CTek It has all the same smart features, except it's way cheaper than a CTek here (CAD $68.99). Same thing with the BA7: I have the Canadian version: it has all the exact same functions with the exact same software and hardware configuration except its casing looks different, and a little cheaper (CAD $62.99). Charger pictures attached. And I have one (hopefully last) dummy question about work with batteries: I've always read that we cannot disconnect/remove/replace the battery without a tender to keep the current/power to avoid/prevent computers/system from resetting and then having to get everything reconfigured again. Questions: - Is this true? - What memory settings exactly do we risk losing and having to reconfigure again if we don't use a tender to remove/replace/disconnect the battery? Radio "pre-sets"? - If we risk losing some memory pre-sets (other than radio), then we need to use a charger/tender to keep the current going in the car. Then, I would like to know what the order of steps is to connect and disconnect things (charger/tender, battery terminals/cables, other accessories?). For example, connecting the charger before disconnecting the battery: does it not double up the current (12V battery + 13V charger) in the car now that both (battery + charger) are still connected together before the battery cable (positive or negative?) gets disconnected? I have lots of doubts myself about the proper steps and order to connect/disconnect/reconnect charger and battery in the car. Sorry for my ignorance... The reason for my question is because, as you can see, I think I bought the tools I need to change the battery myself. However, yes, my battery was just changed by the dealer (for the above reasons I was chicken to do it myself) but I still plan to add some accessories and eventually I'll have to disconnect and reconnect the battery again. I just would like to make sure about the proper steps. And yes, I've seen quite a few YT videos, but some people disconnect the positive first, other ones disconnect the negative first, some people reconnect the negative first, other ones reconnect the positive first, ...and I don't know who is right or wrong, or maybe the disconnect/reconnect order doesn't matter? That's why I would like to ask in here instead of following who knows who's YT video is correct... Hope you folks wouldn't mind my questions. Thanks again for all your advice. It's ALWAYS greatly appreciated.

Hi folks: A few years ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W kindly posted a chart showing how the water boiling point increases as the percentage of coolant in water increases (see chart below, please). I know folks down south are more interested in the effects of the high temperature, but some folks up north are also interested in the effect of the low temperature . The amount of coolant/antifreeze in water is directly proportional to the water boiling point (the higher the amount of coolant in water, the higher the boiling point of the mixture), and also inversely proportional to the water freezing point (the higher the amount of antifreeze in water, the lower the freezing point of the mixture). I wonder if somebody can give us a reference to a similar chart about Freezing point of water / antifreeze mixture. Thanks in advance.

Coolant repaced by dealer at their courtesy. Thank you very much folks for your valuable info.

No, the dealer didn't reset the BMS, nothing; upon request this time they sat the cable connections all the way down the posts and sprayed some lube on top; I still see the greenish corrosion deposits on the connections... Good enough I guess. Znow, if you're not sure, with all respect I'll then take your advise on the side of caution... I wouldn't want to use my vehicle as a guinea pig lol. Do I REALLY need TO HAVE the ignition on?.. Also, when you say "make sure to leave the ignition on (engine off) for the duration", do you mean: - not accessory on, but ignition on (with all those dash lights and chimes on?) - for the duration: I usually leave the charger overnight, is it OK to leave the ignition on overnight for the reset purpose? I've heard/read that having the keyfob out of reach for more than 8 hours will reset the BMS. I do this quite often, like 3-4 times a week at least, as I parked more than 100m away from my movement area at work. Edit: Oh, a good chunk of text was cut off when I pressed submit...; I'll type it again below: A while ago in another thread Bac2010 determined that my battery has 62.5 Ah capacity. The smart charger's manufacturer recommends that "a good, safe rule of thumb is about 1/10th its Ah capacity". Based on both info, I bought a smart charger that charges 7A @ 14.4V (it has a choice to charge 1A at the same voltage), can provide constant power supply at 13.0V, and can recondition at 15.8V. Just in case this info may help you determine if it can do what you suggested once we figure out how much current is drawn with the ignition on. Now, meanwhile, for me to get ready I need to ask a kind of dummy question: I usually hook the smart charger negative clamp to the bolt attached to the strut mount, behind the fuse box, please see attached picture. Please let me know if that location is suitable to be used as negative/ground connection for the mentioned purpose. Thanks in advance folks.

Hello folks: Still dealing with the dealer and the contamination with the (C)VC5 they put in my cooling system. Tomorrow they'll do "something" but they refuse to let me know beforehand what they're planning to do. I've asked many many times with absolutely no one answer, other than "we're going to use (C)VC13DLG; bring it in tomorrow" (thanks). I should have asked you folks before but I got that answer from them today and this question just came to mind after being so worried for not knowing what they're actually going to do: Does anyone know (even approximately) how much volume of coolant (L or qts) keeps trapped in the cooling system/block when you just drain it? According to the User's Guide for the 2011 Edge SEL the coolant system takes a total volume of 11.1L (11.7 qts). Thanks in advance, folks.

Yes, I'm thinking about contacting Ford Canada; thanks Ron. The thing is if I graciously decline the dealer's offer, I don't know how much damage the car will have if I keep running the car until a suitable resolution might be reached with Ford Canada (I don't expect Ford Canada to pay immediate attention to a 10 years old vehicle with 125K miles on it ). Then if I accept what the dealer here is "offering" me, Ford Canada may consider the matter resolved. I'm kind of stuck in between two rocks, if you know what I mean. Reputable independent service place.. Hum? Well, I don't want to make it sound/look too difficult, but I've already tried before 4-5 different places over 25 years. The problem here is that most places (I haven't tried them all) here have significant turn around (low pay). You "stick" with a guy for a while and then after a while that guy is gone; the next guy does things "differently" (it shouldn't be, I know). ...But it's definitively time to look around once again. You know what I really think: many, way too many people just drop off their vehicles for service and then pick them up and drive away without checking (I found that out because I checked, and asked what they did; and then when I received a childish answer I consulted with you folks; how many people do that? That's how the dealer "gets away with murder"). Then when something fails (like the water pump, for instance), people say it's Ford's fault. I honestly don't think it's always Ford's fault, at least not regarding the vehicles design and functioning. It's the enforcement of the correct and appropriate maintenances which are in limbo, and then things fail... But anyway... As for another dealership, the next (and only other) Ford dealership in this province is about 30 miles away. It's not that it's that far; the real problem is, on one hand, I believe (not 100% sure) that both Ford dealerships are owned by the same group/person(s); on the other hand, I doubt they have different, better standard operating procedures; we'd have heard about that already. I'll be on the hunt... Anyhow, no more responses from the dealer today. I'll keep you guys posted on the development, if interested. I thank you all once again for your advise and support.