Edgingage

Haz, wow!, BIG thank you for all the detailed info you have provided above. Lots of things and steps to check and go through. I'm in big trouble. Let's see how we can navigate through those things. The worse part is that, whatever problem I had is an intermittent problem; and that's a huge problem because: 1) I haven't been able to reproduce it again; 2) if the shop can't reproduce the problem how can I make sure whatever they've done actually solved the problem? (if you know what I mean). Unless a specific problem is found, even if I do all the checks and balances (i.e., if I do most of the things listed above), I won't be 100% certain that the problem won't reoccur in the middle of the highway next time, unless the culprit is found & fixed. Sad days are coming for my Edge (or myself ;)) Thank you Haz; thanks again.

Hi folks, 2011 Edge SEL here (205,000 km; ~127,000 miles): I posted in general Brakes, Chassis & Suspension but I'm afraid this problem might be more common or specific to the 2011 Edge/MKX; that's why I'm posting here. I just had a very scary event this morning: while driving in the city (TG!), approaching the lights my brake pedal went to the floor with no much brake action other than deacceleration. As I was very close to home (TG again!) I kept going very slowly (with my emergency lights on), and once in a while I was "testing" (pushing) the brake pedal with the same result: very little resistance to stop the vehicle. I managed to get home without an accident. Once in my parking lot, I drove the vehicle back and forth (slowly) with the same result: brake pedal to the metal and no real break action, very little, if any. I shut it off and called the dealer to explain the situation: they told me "you could probably not drive the car here", I said "yes, it's just a couple of Km away". I drove it to the dealer; however, in my way to the dealer the brakes were working properly, I tried to reproduce the same thing (pressing the brake pedal at different intervals, speeds and pressure) and the brakes always worked as normal. Hum, I told the dealer, now I have two problems: what about if you guys can't reproduce the failure I just had today. And of course, I'm not confident to keep driving this vehicle without finding out what went wrong. The dealer gave me an appointment for two days from now for they to "'check things around..." As a background info, the brake booster was replaced about three years ago. At the time what happened was the other way around: I had to literally step on the brake pedal to put enough pressure to stop the car even while driving slowly. This time there was no resistance from the pedal. So, my questions to you folks: - anybody with a similar experience? - if the brake booster was replaced three years ago, could it be gone so soon again? - where should be the first place/part to look at? This question is very important as the dealer didn't know where to start looking and I'm afraid they my charge me $200+ just for looking/trying (and not finding the problem). And yes, I did check for break fluid leak and level: no fluid leaks; all fluid levels checked OK. I'm lost; don't know where to look or what else to do. Please help. Thank you folks. Chris.

Hi folks, 2011 Edge SEL here (205,000 km; ~127,000 miles) I just had a very scary event this morning: while driving in the city (TG), approaching the lights my brake pedal went to the floor with no much brake action other than deacceleration. As I was very close to home (just a handful of Kms) I kept going very slowly (with my emergency lights on), and once in a while I was "testing" (pushing) the brake pedal with the same result: very little resistance to stop the vehicle. I managed to get home without an accident. Once in my parking lot, I drove the vehicle back and forth (slowly) with the same result: brake pedal to the metal and no real break action, very little, if any. I shut it off and called the dealer to explain the situation: they told me you could probably not drive the car here, I said yes, it's just a couple of Km away. I drove it to the dealer; however, in my way to the dealer the brakes were working properly, I tried to do the same thing (pressing the brake pedal at different intervals, speeds and pressure) and the brakes always worked as normal. Hum, I told the dealer, now I have to problems: what about if you guys can reproduce the failure I had before. And of course, I'm not confident to drive the car without finding out what went wrong. As a background info, the brake booster was replace about three years ago. At the time what happened was the other way around: I had to literally step on the brake pedal to put enough pressure to stop the car even while driving slowly. This time there was no resistance from the pedal. So, my questions to you folks: - anybody with a similar experience? - if the brake booster was replaced three years ago, could it be gone so soon again? - where should be the first place/part to look at it? This question is very important as the dealer didn't know where to start looking and I'm afraid they my charge me $200 just for looking (and not finding the problem). And yes, I did check for break fluid leak and level: no fluid leaks; all fluid levels OK. I'm lost; don't know where to look or what else to do. Please help. Thank you folks. Chris.

Well, in mine it's fairly effortless both ways. Once I release the safety latch I can use one hand to start lifting it up, the struts kick in at about 1 foot height (measured). Pretty much the same to close it down, I use one hand to push it down, and when it gets at around a foot height it actually shuts completely down itself by the same motion and weight coming down. Opening up, it slows down nicely at the end of its way up but it doesn't in its way down, it keeps constant motion coming down and no resistance from the struts in its last foot to close freely. That first foot high to open or close has no strut force or resistance. It's a beauty in action, that's why I wrote above "recommended", I should have written (to Ford) "highly recommended" lol. I made, however, a very slight variation regarding the mounting brackets position on the hood: I moved the mounting location on the hood 3/4" down (towards the rear end); that allows the hood to open up a little bit higher (maybe 1-2" higher) in its highest point (full open). Everything else was done as per Redline Tuning instructions freshly revised at the time after a correction I suggested in the instructions for the 2011-14 Edge. Go for

I installed Redline in my 2011 Edge SEL (had none from factory). They're doing a terrific job, amazing. But they're a little more expensive, over $100 the set of two struts plus needed hardware to install from scratch (you may need to use the struts only). Just make sure you'll replace them with the exact same length. You can email Redline with all kind of questions, they respond within 1 business day (if not the same day) they have a top notch customer care. Recommended. I'm not related, associated or affiliated with Redline business or employees in any way, shape or form. Good luck.

Parker: how old is the battery in your car? Enigma: how old is the battery in your wife's car? Please. Thank you both.

Although I'm really sorry for the lost of your pump and the amount of work to rebuild the front end, I'm very happy to hear that my car is not even half way there yet. Peace of mind? Maybe lol. No, on the contrary, Ford wouldn't want to use him in their ads, Ford would like to disappear those videos from the net!, he's actually "killing" Ford main business: selling new cars!! Lol Thank you Mac for your tremendous work and information, you're the one keeping me going on my 10-year old Edge, hopefully turning 11 soon 👍 😁.

Only 7 years old at the time he started to deal with the dealer, months ago . Weird...

Lol, let me have a laugh Jeff K (with respect). It's just because I had a similar question about four years ago and I got a similar answer: it IS there lol. "But where?", that's your question. Well, it's very hard to find it first time from the top of the engine bay (forget it), it's really hard to find it that way unless it has been already moved from its original/factory storage location, if it's still in its original location from factory (if it hasn't been previously used/touched yet). Once you do find it first time then you'll be able to continue locating/tracing it from the top of the engine bay. But to find it first time you will have to crawl under the car (that's the only way I could find it after expending days looking for it from the top lol, reading the user's manual, reading Haynes book, even posting a question in other part of this great forum, and still couldn't find the info for the location). So, rise the front of the car on ramps (you could rise only the passenger side if you want), get underneath with a good flashlight and set your mind ready to spend some time down there, IF needed lol. Unfortunately I didn't take pictures when I found it (sorry) and I'm currently recovering from a recent heart attack and double bypass so, I'm still very limited in the physical activities I could do (i.e., not even driving yet ). Here is the first fun part: once you put the car on ramp and crawl underneath (remember to engage parking brake, shuck the opposite rear wheel and all other pertinent safety measures to get underneath the car), find the engine block (as a reference start) and look along the chassis frame, the heat cord should be tightly tucked against the frame, look like if you're looking for something that it's supposed to be hidden, really hard to find ON PURPOSE lol. Once you find it (you will, trust me), here is the second fun part: there's no much space where you can run that cable around to the front of the car. So, before you actually start sweating bringing that cable through the front, first think where exactly you want to have that plug, and then work its way towards where you want to place it. I had A LOT OF FUN placing the plug through the lower grill right underneath the front plate holder lol. Good luck!

I agree with you, something is better than nothing; I'll see if Ford's Parts salesperson agrees lol. Thanks for the suggestion.

Hi folks: I think I'm probably going against the current, or against the trend at this time as most people are going with black, stealth, gun powder and similar color/look for rims. But I'd like to replace my 18" grey stock rims with 20" shine/bright chrome wheels. I looked at Tirerack and also at Canadawheels (cheaper shipping but I don't seem to find a spoke pattern I like (very few options available for 20" chrome). I also looked at Detroit wheel and tire but they sell refurbished/reworked/repaired wheels (anyone has experience buying from Detroit wheel and tire?). Is there any other place I should look to find 20" chrome wheels for my 2011 Edge SEL? Any suggestions or directions are appreciated in advance.

Last year I had to redo the rocker panels in 2011 SEL. So definitively an area you should soak it up.

Oh, thank you omar302.

Does that work for the 2011-14 YM, (without fordscan)?!