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end

Edge Member
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Everything posted by end

  1. Well, except today. Oh and Lex, have you tried putting on three coats of the touch up paint (as the name suggests). I haven't got to trying yet, I was too disappointed after the first layer...
  2. My plastic chrome clad wheels are more durable than real triple plated chrome... baaahahaha.
  3. I agree. The Ford touch up paint for this color is like watery milk with sparkles.
  4. LOL. This is the craziest thing I've read in days. "I got a flat tire because of chrome wheels." "Plastic painted like chrome will last longer than real chrome." I'm not biased either, I'm changing out the real chrome wheels my car came with for some polished aluminum... Chrome clad has some benefits, like fuel economy and it eats up less brakes. But not the stuff you're talking about.
  5. The enclosure actually had a little bit of poly fill in there, but I think it was mostly to keep the wires from rattling. I checked out that JBL sub and the mount depth is a hair taller than the Kicker. The depth shouldn't be a problem, but the Kicker magnet was too wide. A piece of the enclosure pushed the sub off center of the mounting holes. I had to make a custom bezel to raise and center the sub. Plus the mounting holes weren't the same as the stock sub.
  6. I dropped a 8" Kicker Solo Classic in the stock enclosure this summer. I was really impressed with how the plastic enclosure holds the bass.
  7. I have the Spec-X's on custom 22's. They are outstanding. Handling is great, road noise is nil... They seem to be wearing pretty good too. Much better on dry pavement than the Falkens they replaced. They've been in snow once, but I didn't feel any difference with the Falkens. The Falkens went in the snow about 7-8 times. They were pricey, but they seemed to have earned the price with me.
  8. Not sure if this is the right place to post this, but can someone tell me the Hub / Center Bore size of the Lincoln MKX and MKS? I'm getting conflicting answers from the internet and the tire shop... Much thanks to anyone who can help!
  9. Install a PAC TR7. Most of the newer head units need more than just grounding the parking brake wire. TR7 can fake the proper parking and regular brake signals.
  10. I installed the PAC SWI JACK (i have a clarion unit) and it hasn't given me any problems. It does make you press the steering wheel buttons a little harder or longer, but its only a slight difference. dehydorn is right, try to use just a single resistor. Also I soldered everything together just to keep things clean.
  11. That's cool... I'm not a big bass head either, and real bass heads will tell you that the 400 watts that I'm running really isnt alot. But 400 watts its enough to get really clean sound out of the car for any style of music.
  12. Wow dude I dont think you get what I'm trying to say. I'm done talking to you because you seem to have all the answers, but you still haven't solved your need for a little more bass. Hey Lex if you are gonna be in Orange County any time let me know and I'll show how my setup hits. It's true that the lowest wattage 8" subwoofer that Crutchfield sells requires 100 watts RMS (its a JL W1). The problem is, that this sub is single voice coil and the factory sub is dual voice coil. To get the same amount of power from the factory amp, you'll have to either get a dual voice coil aftermarket sub or attempt to bridge the factory amp (which might mess up the amp if its not designed to bridge the subwoofer channel). Last resort, is to only use one of the two channels coming from the factory amp which will get you even less power.
  13. It's true that you can damage a sub by using an underpowered amp. You do this by maxing out the amp and pumping a very distorted signal to the sub. I don't think it's very easy to do, but you still end up with crappy sound. Anyway, factory amps are matched to the factory speakers to pump out the most bass using the lowest amount of power. When you add a stiff, power hungry aftermarket sub to the stock amp it might not get enough power and might not be sensitive enough. Rather than buying a weak sub to hopefully match the weak stock amp... I just bought a matching sub/amp pair. If I did not have an aftermarket head unit I would buy a sub/amp pair and run it off the speaker wires that go to the factory sub.
  14. Do you happen to have the stealth box for the edge/mkx? Isn't this thing like $600? Also the instructions for the stealth box say that you have to cut the quarter panel in order to install the speaker grill.
  15. Just finished replacing the factory subwoofer with an 8" Kicker Solo Classic. I'm pushing it with a Kicker ZX400.1. It's not a simple operation like the OP mentioned, but its not too bad. I had to make a custom bezel for the new subwoofer's mounting holes.
  16. If you are already having a hard time receiving an analog FM signal, I would not get an HD tuner. HD signals are definitely more finicky than analog ones, especially right now when they only use 1%-10% of a radio station's power. When radios have a hard time maintaining the HD signal, they revert back to the analog signal. Worst case scenario is that your radio constantly jumps back and forth between the signals, which is even more annoying. If you need better reception, try a different deck. Maybe you can find a model with a very sensitive tuner or processes the signal better.
  17. haha..cute. settle down guy. if you like to overpay for your speakers, suit yourself. Lets hope your store goes down like Circuit City.
  18. A. Yes as the driver of your car you're hearing mostly the fronts. However upgrading the rears with better highs will improve the sound stage. B. I don't know what you mean. I have an MKX so it may be different. C. Go to a car audio store and try different speakers. Then buy them online. Take online reviews with a grain of salt because people's level of quality and perception can vary wildly. I can tell you Pioneer TS-A6882R speakers do have more louder highs than the stockers, however I mainly bought them for mid-bass. D. Sorry did the install myself, but it should be about one hours worth of work. Definitely not more than two hours.
  19. On newer Pioneer, Alpine, Clarion stuff, enabling video is no longer as simple as grounding the ebrake wire.....
  20. Sorry I can't helpguys, I couldn't find the VSS wire in the wiring diagrams I had. I didnt print out absolutely everything. I found the VSS from the instructions in my harness: The overpriced AXXESS AFDI-THX-01. I also had factory Nav. Lastly, I'm using the Pac TR7 trigger for video bypass, so I never needed to find the E-brake wire...
  21. I've had rear view cameras on my last two trucks... I had a high quality bullet style camera in my Expedition and now a license plate camera on my MKX. I don't agree with the notion that the license plate cameras are cheap or low quality. Mine is nearly all metal, does not vibrate, and has great image quality. But of course, this will vary from brand to brand. You don't have to worry about them getting stolen if you use secured bolts and bolt covers. Last time I checked, mine is still there. :-) Most will actually tilt so that you can see the bumper, but really you can judge distance down to the inch without doing that. I like license plate ones since the camera lines up perfectly in the center of the vehicle, which helps lining up your parking. My Expedition had a camera drilled into the hatch. You can put these in more places, but they are not easily removable.
  22. What brand of harness do you have? The instructions for your harness should tell you which wire is VSS coming out of the harness. Also if you are not using a harness (yikes) let me know, I can check the wiring diagrams. Lastly, VSS is not used for positioning of the satellites. It just sends a signal when the vehicle is moving which helps some nav units determine your position.
  23. Hey can you post a link or picture of what they look like?
  24. Haven't tried this myself but ... From the shop manual: Liftgate Latch Manual Release 1. Remove the liftgate latch access cover from the center of the liftgate trim panel. 2. Vehicles with manual liftgate, press the liftgate latch manual release lever to the left to release the liftgate latch. 3. Vehicles with power liftgate, press the liftgate latch manual release lever down to release the liftgate latch.
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