Cerberus

1 hour ago, omar302 said:

 

I recently got a previously set DTC P06DD:00-28 for Engine Oil Pressure Control Circuit Performance/Stuck off. No symptoms, check engine light or warning messages. Reading online I feal I might need to replace the "Oil Pressure Control Solenoid" soon, pictured in your post, but I can't seem to find a part number. All I can find is the Variable Valve Timing Oil pressure control solenoid. 

 

@Haz your usual assistant is highly appreciated. 

this looks right to me from my recollection

46 minutes ago, dabangsta said:

 

3 hours ago, honerboys said:

so i went ahead and disassembled the clutch part of the differential - is this supposed to be a dry clutch? - it had a small amount of lubricant oil in it which seems counterintuitive since it's a series of friction disks and metal disks (12 of them) - it would seem to me that the oil would cause those to not grip each other - 

 

automatic transmission and motorcycle clutches (aside from a handful of exceptions) operate in an oil bath 

14 minutes ago, Wubster100 said:

I think I will have to go with an H7 battery. My current battery is about 3 years old. The auto start stop hasn’t worked for about 10 months. The radio doesn’t stay on after the engine turns off. I always get the system off to save power message.

I hope it's just the battery getting old..

3 years is not a long time for a quality battery, but if you were using the auto stop/start system, then it does make some sense that the battery would be tired if it did a lot of cycles. 

FWIW I also had the H7 installed but I traded that vehicle in and don't have pictures I don't think

32 minutes ago, Wubster100 said:

Is H7 the maximum size that will fit or has anyone tried to install a H8 battery?

Not 100% sure but I suspect H7 is the largest, and more than the vehicle really needs unless you have auto start stop enabled (which i vehemently advise against) 

2 hours ago, sosaudio1 said:

Yeah.....I figured....argh....so what is the best way to do this if you don't have the evacuation tools? Suck it up and take it to a shop? That area got fairly knackered when the shop CarMax had to warranty work....that CarMax wouldn't pay for to let them do....didn't put the valve cover back on correctly. I had to have it towed back to them for them to fix it but I figure and see evidence of a fair amount of contamination there which is why I was going to replace the belt and the pulleys but then was reminded that the alternator is definitely on its way out. "My car sounds like I have a mild cam installed in it and the lights pulse" ie, regulator is failing. So while I had it all apart, I figured, why not, lets go ahead and tackle the alternator. 

 

Where in TN are you, wanna come help a dude replace an alternator?

 

LOL 

Personally, given the quote I was given to do the job at the dealership, I'd buy or rent the evap pump and gauge set. Even if you buy them it's much cheaper to do it yourself. I already owned the tools so it was an absolute no trainer for me.

And yes, I would have recommended R&Ring the belt and idler/tensioner while you're there. I did.

I'm in the Knox area but my time is so monopolized by my employer,  that i simply don't have enough hours off in a row to even entertain the idea of a job of this size. But it's not a hard job of you have all the tools you need and the perseverance to see it through.

The hardest part to me was the awkward positioning on jackstands which had my working the absolute hell out of my neck muscles to nearly the point of failure.. lol

8 hours ago, 1004ron said:

 

 

I highly doubt that the AC compressor needs to be removed for an alternator replacement.

It does. 

On 11/3/2024 at 6:12 PM, enigma-2 said:

 AFAIK there are two different 3.5 L engines, one that faces forward with an external water pump and the the other a transverse (as in the Edge) with an external water pump. 

 

As far as the 14 parts in a kit, you can check out this kit for what's included. Not recommending as it's not Motorcraft, and I'd only use Motorcraft, but gives you a good idea as to what's included. 

 

https://www.partsgeek.com/4zlxl33-ford-edge-timing-chain-kit-and-water-pump.html

 

While you're tearing down the engine, I'd also go with new plugs, new coil skirts & new EGR. 

 

I'm betting you meant external and internal, not external and external

On 10/17/2024 at 2:51 PM, Maso125 said:

Hi. new to the forum. I have an 07 Edge, I had to have the water pump replaced (there was coolant

mixed with the oil). On my way home after picking it up it started to over heat. got it towed home.

The next day towed back to the shop. 2 days later found out it was the thermostat. they replaced it and

test drove it got hot again . BLOWN HEAD GASKET. How is that even possible The Water pump was

$2700 and they want $5800 to do the head gasket it is not worth it. I can't afford that. I stuck $2700

into it and it is worthless. I have a bottle of head gasket sealer, should i use it? 

ok.. this is not going to be all good news, but here goes.

That engine (3.5L transverse V6 i presume?)  has a problem with refilling the cooling system, it has to be done with a vacuum fill system because (at least in the version i had in my 2011 fusion) both the hot and cold hoses going from the engine to the radiator, go high before going low. you can't get water into the engine with any normal process.. the engine ends up air locked, and air does not work well in cooling systems.

What this implies is that, if they did not fill the engine correctly after doing the pump, THEY are responsible for the head gasket failure.

The bad news is, good luck getting them to admit it or take responsibility for it..

6 hours ago, Aurora watcher said:

A.kirby is out to lunch. Capiche? It is all to do with the rear end ratio. The lower the ratio, the more horsepower it will take to match the acceleration of a vehicle with a higher numbered ratio. Police interceptors are likely to have a 2.53 ratio and a Camero is likely to have 3.80 or 4.11 rear end ratios. The Camero will leave the interceptor behind at the start but can never beat it for top end speed. At highway speeds your lower ratio would have your engine running at a slightly lower rpm which translates into better fuel mileage, but sacrifices get up and go. If you live live in really hilly terrain and have to pull a lot of hills you would want a higher numbered ratio as that allows for better performance in the hills. Higher ratios can be used by car makers to give better acceleration from less horsepower engines because it takes less horsepower to make the vehicle accelerate quicker like it felt in the Limited you drove. ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH HEAVIER WHEELS....

Dave

bold strategy.. 

You revive a 12 year old thread by insulting a moderator... while admittedly correcting a false statement. 

but to be fair you didn't address the elephant in the room, the transmission operation being described as operating in a somewhat lazy mode.

being slow to downshift does tend to be a fuel saving tactic, and not good for performance.

these shifting algorithms are being reworked all the time and adaptive self adjustments make it even harder to compare apples to apples..

nevermind the final drive ratios being different, and the shift programming likely being different as well 

And this all assumes the engines of both vehicles were in identical condition with identical conditions.

Heck, a cool day can make most engines perform better.. 

bottom line, its hard to pinpoint one single cause, but yes, if the final drive ratios are different, the numerically higher one will tend to have a lot more acceleration with everything else being equal 

I have a set of American Racing 18" black wheels with winter tires (in good condition) on them, 245/50 R18 GoodYear Winter Command with sensors (x4)

I'm in Eastern TN, lets say Knoxville, and these items really aren't worth shipping so basically looking for anyone local-ish who wants them fairly cheaply

EDIT: the dealership does want the RDU..

I should have removed the catch can, since I'm willing to bet they'll remove it anyway

On 10/22/2024 at 9:00 PM, BamaInArk said:

To revisit this one more time....been driving with the warning intermittent between on and off.    I can start driving with the warning showing and then "poof" the battery light goes away.   Drive a little longer and "boom" here is comes on again.  It seems to have a mind of it's own.  I have reverified the battery IS charging and showing 14.5 volts while engine running.

intermittent charge warning means intermittent charge problems. 

In other words, when you test it, its fine, but wen the light comes on, its almost certainly not.

could be a loose field wire (but unlikely) loose output cable (also unlikely) or a failing alternator.

If it makes you feel any better, most mechanics are not good at electronics, and even worse at intermittent problem diagnosis.. 

if you buy a cheapo cigarette lighter receptacle voltage meter, and plug in in somewhere you can easily see it, you can glance over at it when the light comes on and verify the actual voltage in its faulted condition.

3 hours ago, STBEAST said:

I am a bit confused. I would assume for liability reasons; the sunroof glass is safety glass. What is the difference between tempered and safety glass?

Also, I see very few posts about cracked sunroof glass. I am thinking that 90 percent of all Edges never have this happen. Other than something hitting the glass what would cause this.  Maybe in Freezing climates?

I'm pretty sure that tempered glass IS safety glass. 

If nothing hit it, the fracture has to be a manufacturer problem.

I traded my 2016 sport in on a 2020 explorer ST.. so I'm no longer in the cool kids club.. 🤣

I'm sure you all will miss me terribly LOL

I am grateful for the reference info and shared experience which has made my Edge ownership easier.

Best wishes to one and all

Peace out!

8 hours ago, Clpeltz said:

Just had the panoramic sunroof glass crack! Don’t know why or how it happened. Can just the glass be replaced? Our shop is quoting over $10,000! That is insane! They say they have to replace the entire sunroof. Help!

 

 

Do you have the panoramic sunroof? Did you just get the glass replaced, or did you have to get a new sunroof? Our glass just cracked and our shop is saying we need a new sunroof and that you can’t just replace the glass. They quoted over $10,000! Help!

 

 

 

I had the panoramic sunroof on my 2016 edge, it cracked, i replaced it myself. but I am a mechanic..

if yours is similar, 10,000 is absolutely attempted theft of your vehicle.

paging @Haz our local documentation and reference information expert

1 hour ago, JohnCT said:

My sister bought a new car but I'm going to replace the pump in my garage.  My niece will take the car and use it for her last year of college.

 

I have decided *against* changing the cam phasers but will replace the pump, guides, and tensioner.   

 

Does anyone have a list of parts that I will need such as gaskets etc?  I imagine I'd need intake gaskets and valve cover gaskets, but wonder if I'm missing something. I'd like to order everything in advance before she brings it by.  Thanks.

 

John

Timing cover is an RTV bead (or was in the 2011 version), but I'd probably do the crank seal. Valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals, cam phaser solenoid seals, and yes, I think there are upper and lower intake seals.

I'd be willing to bet they come in a kit

You'll need tools to lock cams at the correct position, pull the crank hub, and press it back on, assuming yours is like mine was (fusion, not edge)

3 hours ago, BMWR1200c said:

After driving all day, battery SOC is up to 70% and auto stop/start just started working again. Wasn't earlier at 66%. Guess 70% is the threshold.

if driving all day only gets the battery to 70%, i'd be checking alternator current output. and crank on every single power hungry accessory immediately after start up while watching the output, see if it hits a threshold below its actual spec.

otherwise its possible the battery is just tired.

41 minutes ago, honerboys said:

reason not to drill drain? - i'm seeing online that these need an occasional oil change - the one i just got is 10 years old with it's original oil (i assume) - just curious

Changing fluid is good. Compromising the structural integrity of a load bearing member is unnecessary to perform the fluid change, it just makes it easier.

Also, if in fact the unit has the original fluid and is in as good a condition as you say, that would suggest that regular fluid changes are less necessary than you might think.

Mine ran empty for many miles and did not fail completely.. yet.

Nice find.

I wouldn't do a kerosene flush, especially with the condition of the RDU and it's fluid being apparently very good.

I also would not drill it to create a drain, nor change the fluid every 10k.. but that's just me.

On 5/29/2024 at 6:52 PM, 1004ron said:

Pulled one of the 95605 Ruthenium HX plugs for an assessment - perfect color and gap is a tight 30 thou unchanged from when I installed them 42K miles ago.

 

Will check them again when they have a total of 80K miles on them, and will go with the one stage hotter plug NGK 90405 LTR6BHX when needed.

 

 

 

this is the information i was looking for, thank you

On 7/23/2024 at 6:50 PM, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

wow haven't seen a filter go like that in ages.

 

could be just a defective unit, but generally i stay with purolator boss or motorcraft for this very reason. am sure you would do fine with mobil1 and royal purple filters too as far as reliability.

 

edit: as far as plastic vs metal impellers, it is also a compromise just like oil filters. should the metal fail it will cause serious damage throughout the engine. from what i have seen the plastic basically dissolves lol. idk which is better, but maintaining coolant is def a priority.

back when i was working on jaguars (XJ8 mostly for a while), i changed a lot of small cartridge style water pumps with plastic impellers that had shattered, and (again, in my experience) no, the plastic does not dissolve. If it did, it would not be a suitable material for an impeller in the first place. where all the fragments of impeller ended up, there is no way to know, but many vehicles had odd cooling issues after a pump went bad and grenaded.

And a cast iron impeller will not fail, except perhaps by corrosion, and we've covered that angle well enough.

8 hours ago, Barbenae said:

Well replacing the schrader valves for a charge of $621 did not fix my AC problem.  The next time I drove the car when I turned on the AC it did not blow cold air.  I turned off the AC and then turned it back on about 5 minutes later and it was blowing cold air. I'm at a loss as to what I need to do. After replacing the alternator as discussed previously, the AC is just not performing as it should. What could possibly be causing this?

Help, please.

 

intermittent failures are often challenging to trace down, and require as much information as possible.

but just off the cuff, my first thought was the a/c clutch relay, or a loose connection at the compressor for the clutch

also possible; software glitch/failure, loose ground, loose connection to a pressure sensor in the system

if it were me, i'd bring it back to the guy who did the alternator and a/c service and say, i already paid you to fix this problem, which didn't start until you worked on the car, so fix it for free. 

but the likelihood that will turn out well is probably not great.

7 hours ago, omar302 said:

Seems RDU failure are becoming more common than before. 

 

to be fair, there is an obvious fluid leak stain at the output shaft, so it probably ran dry.

If the fluid level is kept right, they last quite well.

I know i ran with mine 'dry' or effectively empty for quite a while. 

like tens of thousands of miles, and yes its shot now, but i can't help but wonder if it would in this state if it had fluid in it the whole time.

Bad mechanic (me), no donut. 😒

10 hours ago, garycrist said:

Hate to say it but, Shraders wear out. The primary seal is the cap!

YIKES $621 for two bucks of Shraders and A/C service?

 

Check your 1st. bill for a refrigerant charge. If so,  then when

it was recharged during the first service (alternator), one might

argue the point.

I have never seen a high side port cap that could hold back over 150PSI.. 

so i'm gonna have to call BS on this one.

Shraders do not wear out either. Why would they?

Unless they are being opened and closed (slam shut under pressure) there is no reason for a valve that is not moving ever to wear out.