Jump to content

Cerberus

Edge Member
  • Posts

    333
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    30

About Cerberus

Recent Profile Visitors

1,989 profile views

Cerberus's Achievements

  1. I won't say its a scam exactly, but especially depending on your individual use, it is a feature of highly questionable utility and value. I'd rather pay for fuel than starters, batteries, alternators, etc Tell us how exactly they upgraded the starter to handle the wear? Because I'd bet good hard money that the same exact part number is used whether the vehicle has auto start/stop on it or not. I can tell you at least on the vehicles that I work on every day (not Ford), the first year of our roll out had the start stop feature and a button to turn it off, and a big ass H8 battery under the seat. Later years no longer have the auto start/stop, but had the same alternator, same battery and same starter.. I've had to replace a couple starters already, and a few alternators, and the now 3 year old batteries are all nearing the end of their service life from the extra charge/ discharge cycles they had to do.
  2. supposedly there was a version of forscan that had module programming ability. I'd recommend searching the forums on the forscan site for a better answer.
  3. ahh.. the time honored ways to clean out an engine.. My father used Marvel Mystery oil on everything.. before Cats.. even seized up motors and the classic, "Italian Tune up".. pull the trans down to 2nd and beat the snot out of it lol Anybody else ever dump (carefully administer) a bottle of water down the intake of a hot engine while hand modulating the throttle? it definitely worked for cleaning up chambers and reducing ping This was my go-to trick when the Italian tune up didn't do enough. lol
  4. regarding concern for the turbo(s) there are a few things you can do to minimize the risk of premature failure. Never beat on it cold, use the best fully synthetic spec oil (to avoid coking and maximize lubrication film strength), And utilize safe 'run down' practices.. Particularly if you live somewhere hot.. One more thought, that I'm sure will get push back from some, is to add a lower temperature thermostat.
  5. if yours has remote start, set it to the lowest time (5 min usually) and just use that as a cool down run. Thats how i let it cool down when i've been high tailing it to work, and need to go hit the clock.
  6. there are basically two likely causes for the auto start stop to not work. either it was disabled or there is an issue with the battery / BMS / or alternator (or belt) supposedly the BMS will self reset with a new battery installation, but apparently not always. The charging system warning was what i was seeing on my console when i shut off the vehicle. instead of leaving systems on for several minutes after shut down, all system shut down immediately with engine shut down What I did not yet know was my alternator (actually the pulley clutch on the alternator) was shot There are tools and software that allow me to monitor alternator output voltage and current, which will tell you if it is able to produce the power. I check the data periodically now
  7. behind the engine, about in line with the firewall, on the central line
  8. these noises sound like they could be driveline lash going from one state to the other. loaded to unloaded or the other way around, like from a down shift/upshift that could be caused by the engagement or disengagement of the rear drive. just a guess
  9. did the color of the splatter change when the oil was changed? nothing about this makes sense. No drips.. but a splatter on the ground. I'd suspect someone is screwing with you.
  10. my idea to hold on to it was predicated on a couple considerations, like having a $400 alternator($800 according to the dealer) capable of 14v@200A for random generation purposes.. Also, according to the core return policy, the core needed to be returned in the original box, and the box needed to be in undamaged condition. The problem with that is that the snout of the new overrun pulley had damaged the motocraft box in shipment (which does not give the me warm fuzzies btw).. so strictly speaking it was a gamble if it would be eligible for core charge refund. luckily they (RockAuto) did refund the core charge And I've been keeping an eye on the voltage & current output & battery SOC to see if the new overrun clutch is slipping.
  11. what do you call a med student who graduates at the bottom of his class? Doctor..
  12. one mechanic to another, I despise most of the people in this business. There are some talented guys.. and gals i presume, but there are a whole lot of money grabbing hacks and thieves. Mostly I blame the flat rate system for incentivizing production at all cost.. So conscientiousness and quality don't stand a chance..
  13. yeah, with 10.2:1 compression plus 20PSI of boost, its a miracle these things don't grenade, but the management system is constantly listening for any hints of ping & adjusting timing before you can even hear it. Given that fact, I find it is good insurance to run the best fuel (93 octane Top Tier) and best oil & filter available. "Best" is arguable and has been well-argued since the dawn of the interwebs, but my personal preferences include a true fully synthetic oil with low high-temp volatility, and a high quality synthetic media filter. I have never seen dreadful sludge in my oil changes.. and that includes when i was running 15k intervals of my 98 Buick Riviera with the series II 3800 w supercharger. Even though that motor was spec'ed for 5w-30, I ran Mobil 1 Red Cap 15w-50 in it from the day i bought at 115k miles, until i sold it at 205K miles, and I beat it like a red headed step child every day of its life (once fully warmed up) It loved it. And when i did the valve cover gaskets, the internals were GD pristine. ZERO sludge. I know that sounds like tall tales and a lot of hyperbole, but it is the absolute truth.
  14. its not your imagination I've run 5w-30, 5w-40, and a 5w-30 + 10w-40 blend (4 + 2 respectively) and now 0W-40. The engine definitely likes (and runs quieter with) the heavier oil That said, if your oil pump is driven by a wet belt.. the extra load might not be too advisable.. but as we know, I don't like/trust them damned things. šŸ¤£
  15. on the subject of viscosity, i recently changed to a euro formula Mobil 1 0w-40 better flow when cold, better oil pressure when hot, and the engine definitely likes it. oil pressure is everything when your cam timing is controlled by modulating oil pressure to a cam phaser
×
×
  • Create New...