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About Cerberus

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Brakes locking up after replacing master cylinder.
Cerberus replied to RrmyGuy's topic in Brakes, Chassis & Suspension
Paging Ford2504x4, paging Ford2504x4..? -
not for nothing, but the difference between the two is so insignificant that I personally would not waste your time.. unless your PTU leaks, it won't matter. If it does leak, it will leak slightly faster since the 80 weight is slightly less viscous when at full temperature. however, as an observation, my 2016 Sport model uses 75w-140, but the PTU is right next to the rear catalytic converter and close to the rear turbo, so the ambient heat load is pretty high in the summer. I don't know what you're driving or whether this issue is relevant for you.
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just as an illustration, i reset most if not all gauges min/max halfway to work. Oil pressure still dropped to around 10psi, which is not the end of the world, but I don't like it.
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misspelling aside, I appreciate the information, but I have already employed several mods to the ABD including the t/s quick tap, seat belt warning, key out of running vehicle beep and shift lock in absence of the key (police mode) My interest is about adding another fob when you only have one.. which may or may not be possible without IDS subscription, which is cost prohibitive for a single use..
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T/S quick tap flash number is easy, but the key fob issue will require a dealership visit or a purchase of hardware and subscription of service to access. At least thats what I've read over and over. If i'm wrong, let me know.. I lost one keyless push to start fob on a flight some time ago and would love to be able to program a spare too..
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Everything else shows zero because I did not reset the min/max on them. I did reset the min/max on the oil press after startup. Cold idle, it's around 27psi and solid. At temperature, it flickers as I described before. This value is not a percentage.
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Granted this happened while coming to a stop or turning/ accelerating from a stop, but that yellow arrow head at around 7psi oil pressure is not something I can easily ignore. I dont think an oil pressure sensor is to blame.
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This is using OBDII data by OBDLink Bluetooth dongle. I have this "dashboard" of gauges that I use to monitor various relevant parameters by my phone
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For those who like to monitor data from their drivetrain, I have a question regarding oil pressure. At idle with the engine fully at temp, I see oil pressure fluctuations from 17-26 psi, for no apparent reason. Now, I know the pump has some variable geometry system which allows for different oil pressure (or flow rate?) basically on demand, but I don't like seeing so much variability in the pressure at idle. It still makes over 80psi when the loud pedal is on the floor, so I think the pump is probably fine, but I'm still curious if this is a common thing or possibly an indication of something wrong.
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so, out of left field.. you mentioned once that when you opened a bleeder, it did not spurt fluid and the brakes did not release. The only way this can happen is if the caliper piston cannot retract any further OR the pads are too thick OR the rotors are too thick. This is how it can happen; you replace parts that for whatever reason are not within proper spec, so there is JUST enough air gap to get the pads & caliper onto the rotor But once you drive it, the rotors get warm and grow, pushing out on the pads which have no where to go because the caliper is fully compressed already. Its a long shot, and not probable, but thats the only thing that makes any kind of sense with the data given.
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The only real downsides to using trans fluid are that trans fluid does not have the same film strength, sheer stability or viscosity.., but if you're going to keep on it for maintenance, it will not be a problem. Probably. Just know that a leak will empty it much faster than it would with OEM fluid, and the grease that was in there (dried up gear lube) had more lubricity to it than the film left behind by transmission fluid if it leaked out. the right side seal should be monitored closely. I'm curious how this will turn out. Keeps us updated?
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That would be a rotor glowing faintly red against a pitch black back drop, with the wheel blocking parts of the view
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brand new parts, dead on arrival, is a growing phenomenon. not sure why. maybe they were counterfeit parts, maybe covid lockdown-era built. glad it is sorted.
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very unlikely.
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Also, which wheel are you calling number 3? Not everyone knows the correct sequence so it's worth asking