Cerberus

i went with this one. Definite upgrade from OEM and for a few bucks cheaper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07664V1JN

Oil change Wanted to do the air filters but I received the wrong engine air filter and the cabin air filter was dimensionally abnormal, would not fit in the slot. Don't ignore your cabin air filters.. mine is nasty. New one arriving from Amazon today hopefully.

bent wheel? warped rotor? bad tie rod end? IDK camber being off will not create a shake a brand new part failing is not common, but not impossible either.. personally i'd go over every single bolt and part that has been touched since the struts were done

here's an option from an older thread

i gave it a quick wide search and i'm coming up with a lot of dead ends. I can find the RDU and the viscous coupler (which i suspect is not even for your application) but no component level availability.

I'd bet you a beer that the pulley on the alternator is slipping. not the belt, the pulley itself. You can't adjust the belt tension, is spring loaded. But i just had pretty much the same problem and i replaced the alternator, but realized afterwards that the pulley (clutched overrun disconnect type) was free wheeling in both directions. We've seen a few of these on the vehicles i work on in the shop too. Different make and model, but still, these clutching pulleys are suspect as hell. oh, and my battery warning light did not come on with mine either until it was pretty much cooked.

the age and mileage of your vehicle has a large impact on pricing of the plan I'm talking with a ford dealer to arrange a 2yr/24,000 mile powertrain warranty for about 1600. But mine is a 2016 with about 105K miles

the turbo vehicles i work on have started presenting with this problem, and so far its been the vacuum diaphragm that actuates the wastegate control that fails. no longer holds vacuum, so it does not pull the flap shut to force all flow through the turbine. different brand & model but worth a look as a first thing to eliminate

This is the most common reason to replace tensioner or idler, bearing noise or crunching

In my case the tensioner had to come off to get the alternator off, so as long as it is off anyway, why put an old one back on? The spring could have gotten weak and lost tension, the bearing could be getting tired. This does happen. Think about the diameter of the tensioner and idler relative to the crank pulley, and how many times x how fast those things spin.. As it turns out, I definitely didn't need to replace it. Truth is even the belt was showing no signs of wear (at over 100k) but screw it, cheap insurance and I already had the parts in hand.

rock auto for the win when i did my alternator a month ago, I replaced the belt and tensioner but not the idler, and it was tight as hell. I like Gates, but went with a motocraft tensioner I had to ratchet strap the ratchet handle to the subframe in the fully retracted position, and put a socket on the crank to rotate it slowly to roll the belt on. I'm no noob, it was that tight.

have the alternator tested immediately. The battery may be low also, but likely as a symptom of the alternator, if it is bad. I had the same message on my sync display about systems being shut off to save the battery, immediately after shutting off the vehicle instead of the radio staying on until the door is opened (or a few minutes) Turns out, my alternator pulley was freewheeling, not charging.

You can be certain, your driving is being tracked. It's not about whether or not anyone has anything to hide, it's more about what gives them the unmitigated gall to do it. And is it legal.

just for the sake of conversation, unless you keep your phone off, sound proofed and in a faraday bag (one that actually works) you are carrying around the most intrusive surveillance device you'll ever own. Not that it makes it all ok, but anything resembling privacy has been dead for a long time. Its just most people don't know or care.. because modern Narcissistic selfie culture has people trained to put themselves on display by choice.

Regardless of whether your state does inspections or emissions testing, it is still federally illegal to disable those systems. So high flow cats are your only legal option. I have no other info to offer on that. my recommendation would be to concentrate your uncorking efforts to after the cats.

I won't say its a scam exactly, but especially depending on your individual use, it is a feature of highly questionable utility and value. I'd rather pay for fuel than starters, batteries, alternators, etc Tell us how exactly they upgraded the starter to handle the wear? Because I'd bet good hard money that the same exact part number is used whether the vehicle has auto start/stop on it or not. I can tell you at least on the vehicles that I work on every day (not Ford), the first year of our roll out had the start stop feature and a button to turn it off, and a big ass H8 battery under the seat. Later years no longer have the auto start/stop, but had the same alternator, same battery and same starter.. I've had to replace a couple starters already, and a few alternators, and the now 3 year old batteries are all nearing the end of their service life from the extra charge/ discharge cycles they had to do.

supposedly there was a version of forscan that had module programming ability. I'd recommend searching the forums on the forscan site for a better answer.

ahh.. the time honored ways to clean out an engine.. My father used Marvel Mystery oil on everything.. before Cats.. even seized up motors and the classic, "Italian Tune up".. pull the trans down to 2nd and beat the snot out of it lol Anybody else ever dump (carefully administer) a bottle of water down the intake of a hot engine while hand modulating the throttle? it definitely worked for cleaning up chambers and reducing ping This was my go-to trick when the Italian tune up didn't do enough. lol

regarding concern for the turbo(s) there are a few things you can do to minimize the risk of premature failure. Never beat on it cold, use the best fully synthetic spec oil (to avoid coking and maximize lubrication film strength), And utilize safe 'run down' practices.. Particularly if you live somewhere hot.. One more thought, that I'm sure will get push back from some, is to add a lower temperature thermostat.

if yours has remote start, set it to the lowest time (5 min usually) and just use that as a cool down run. Thats how i let it cool down when i've been high tailing it to work, and need to go hit the clock.

there are basically two likely causes for the auto start stop to not work. either it was disabled or there is an issue with the battery / BMS / or alternator (or belt) supposedly the BMS will self reset with a new battery installation, but apparently not always. The charging system warning was what i was seeing on my console when i shut off the vehicle. instead of leaving systems on for several minutes after shut down, all system shut down immediately with engine shut down What I did not yet know was my alternator (actually the pulley clutch on the alternator) was shot There are tools and software that allow me to monitor alternator output voltage and current, which will tell you if it is able to produce the power. I check the data periodically now

behind the engine, about in line with the firewall, on the central line

these noises sound like they could be driveline lash going from one state to the other. loaded to unloaded or the other way around, like from a down shift/upshift that could be caused by the engagement or disengagement of the rear drive. just a guess

did the color of the splatter change when the oil was changed? nothing about this makes sense. No drips.. but a splatter on the ground. I'd suspect someone is screwing with you.

my idea to hold on to it was predicated on a couple considerations, like having a $400 alternator($800 according to the dealer) capable of 14v@200A for random generation purposes.. Also, according to the core return policy, the core needed to be returned in the original box, and the box needed to be in undamaged condition. The problem with that is that the snout of the new overrun pulley had damaged the motocraft box in shipment (which does not give the me warm fuzzies btw).. so strictly speaking it was a gamble if it would be eligible for core charge refund. luckily they (RockAuto) did refund the core charge And I've been keeping an eye on the voltage & current output & battery SOC to see if the new overrun clutch is slipping.