tloewenberg

On my '08 AWD, if the travel is mainly city streets (25-35mph), I get 18.6+, more rural 45-60mph, 20.8, highway (65-75mph), 22-24 is normal. Gimme a tail wind and I'll get 26-27! Same speed bucking a stiff wind and can drop below 20mpg. It doesn't take much to affect mileage.

Backside looks like a ton of existing cars from the Escape to the Cherokee to the Lexus RX350 to the .... List goes on. Not a fresh look. The front end spelled Forester to me. Are the boys in Dearborn lacking for new looks and ideas. Interior cool but may turn off some buyers. I wonder what demographic Ford is targeting with this vehicle. The 2014 is looking better and better.

The end of the story. At the dealer, I elected to go the lesser of two evils route and had them cut a key fob with the the transmitter. Unfortunately, when they mated the new key to the car, I lost the use of the old (bad) key as a remote transmitter to unlock/lock doors, etc. The thing was totally rejected by the car. $65 and I was out the door, but still lacking one transponder key. Ebay to the rescue, I bought a replacement, had a lock smith cut the key, and used the procedure in the manual to mate the key to my car. Now, I have the non-battery key hidden in the car, so if I'm ever caught in the same situation again, I'll be able to start the car. Thinking back at the start of all this, it is a rare occasion that I'd ever have a reserve key on me. The only option then is to call a tow truck.

Well, I called the dealer and made an appointment. They reminded me to bring both keys. Then I started thinking on how proud the dealer was going to be and that I could see a couple hundred bucks flying out of my wallet if they had to cut and program a new key. I called a local locksmith who has done work for me in the past. Of course, on the phone, he was confident that all could be made well. I drove over, handed over the good and the bad, and asked him to do his magic. They didn't have a replacement fob type key, but had a compatible PATS key. Unfortunately, when he interrogated the "bad" key with his programming box, it didn't recognize that the key had ever been programmed. Then, he was stuck, because his system required me to produce two good keys before he could proceed. So, I'm left with the dealer to provide me two good keys. Knowing Ford, they'll probably want $150 for the key and labor ($tbd). Then, my plan is to buy a fob and program it myself. The procedure looks to be fairly straightforward as long as you have two good keys to begin with. More to follow.

When we got home today, I replaced the suspect key fob's battery. When I tried the key, the engine wouldn't turn over and the dash security light blinked. I'm calling my dealership tomorrow. Everything else about the key works, door locks, horn, etc... only car fails to turn over / start. I can't believe for the want of a key fob, a car could be stranded, but that looks to be the case.

I have a 2008 Edge SEL AWD. This weekend my wife and I decided to take a short trip. Leaving the hotel tonight for dinner, I used the key fob to remotely unlock the car. I inserted the key into the ignition, but when I attempted to start the vehicle, nothing happened except that the red security (?) light flashed on the dash. Luckily, I brought the second fob along, which I rarely do because I'm the only person who drives the car. When I used the second fob, all was well and we were on our way. My assumption is that the normally used key fob needs a new battery, which is okay since it's been in constant use for over 4 years. But I'm thinking, if I hadn't grabbed the second fob, we would've been SOL and I wouldn't have been able to start the car? I did some web searching and about all I could come up with are instructions on how to replace the fob battery. Nothing suggests or has instructions for an alternate way of starting the car that people that have total keyless entry and operation have. Is my "out of luck" assumption correct? The manual suggests always having a second key available? Is this my only option?

Another thumbs up for the weather techs! Also, if you want to save $70 (if buying both front and back), the All-Weather mats are also an excellent product. I've used both and swear by them.

I have a 3 year old (40K miles) 2008 Edge. About a year ago and just a couple nights ago, the car was fine when I shut it down. Lights off, doors closed, etc. The next morning, it was absolutely power dead. Nothing worked, no starter solenoid, no lights, nothing. In both cases, I got a jump and went straight to a Ford garage. Their diagnostic machine showed nothing wrong and plenty of crank left in the battery despite being discharged to almost nothing. All circuits checked out okay and they shrugged their shoulders, so did I after wring a check for the technician time. Even the car timeout circuitry seemed to work fine. Besides having something like a flakey relay or a sometimes ground, I have no idea and don't really have a good clue as to how to start troubleshooting or what to tell a qualified technician other than what's happened. Has anyone else had a similar experience? I've had no other issues except for a bad coil on one of the cylinders when I first owned it. Any assistance would really be appreciated. Thx, TL

I'm chiming in fairly late here... but what the heck. An opinion is an opinion. I bought the Ford "All Weather" rubber mats and less than 1.5 years later, there was a wear through where my heal lands. When I queried the dealer where I purchased them, he figuratively shrugged his shoulders and said they were a "wear item." Ergo, no warranty. Ergo, don't waste your money IMHO. Buy the weathertechs, the huskys, etc. Just my opinion and experience talking. Less than 1.5 years is not a quality product.

Sync is NOT standard on the SEL. Nor is NAV. Not even sure if either is standard on the LIMITED.

The OEM black mats were installed in my 2008 Edge by the dealer when I had the 1500 mile checkup performed.. Within 3 years, my right heal had pressed a hole into the mat an inch or so from the a point under the gas pedal. When I pull the mat out of the car and hold it up, I can see sky through the hole. Called Ford and was told they were a "wear" item and no warranty applied except for the standard one year. I hope for everyone's sake that the 2011 mats are higher quality.

I bought the Ford Edge rubber mats from the local dealer on the same day as the 1000 mile service in April 2009. The driver's side has already worn through. I called the dealer and was told that they are considered a "wear item." Maybe I have a heavy heal? Hard to recommend them after only 2 years.

I had the same elusive problem but while the car was still under warranty. It took 4 trips to the dealer before they caught the issue (same as yours). I originally was thinking transmission but it proved to be one of the cyclinder coils. Oh, one other thing. The problem was accurately predicted by another forum participant who also experienced the same issue. Eventually, the problem will become more predictable and repeatable.

Probably not what you want to hear but, the dealer has to catch it in the act unless Ford has some history. I have a 2008 that had an engine stutter for months that wouldn't repeat with the dealer. Each time I brought it in for routine service, I mentioned the problem still existed. Finally got lucky and their diagnostic toy captured the problem. Fixed it and I've never had another issue. Stay with it and keep reminding the dealer. Good luck.

Check out my thread, which is the same as a couple other owners. TL http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?showtopic=3705

Fixed!!!! As suggested a few replies ago, it was not (emphasis on NOT) the transmission. It's been three weeks or so, but when I dropped my Edge off for its 7500 checkup, I asked that the dealer take another stab at my "transmission" problem. It started with a test drive with the diagnostic computer hooked up and saw nothing. Later in the day, they tried again and shazammmmm, caught it. Cyclinder #3 plug and coil were borderline gone. What I was feeling was engine hesitation not the transmission when downshifting from OD to 5th or lower gear. The repair was about 500 miles (6 weeks) ago and I haven't seen a reoccurence so I'm thinking, they got it. The service manager said when I picked it up that the vast majority of issues like mine were solved by reflashing the PCM, replacing the speed sensor (assume engine thing?), and/or a cyclinder plug/coil. Sounds like a known thing? Anyway, that distraction out of the way, I can concentrate on rear bumper protection. Thanks all for the help. TL

How did you make out? The dealer kept my Edge for 3 days with no success. They characterized the issue on the service order as "transmission shudder during OD disengagement." Unfortunately, they were unable to duplicate the symptoms. Strange, when I left the dealer, I drove directly to a street that starts out level that gradually inclines over about a mile. Halfway up the hill, the hesitation/jerky/shudder started and continued for about a 100 yards. The paper diagnosis part was accurate in that the car was indeed in OD as I watched the tach movement so I'm pretty sure I was in 6th gear even though I didn't think I was going fast enough. [i left another posting asking about shift speeds.] Anyway, this morning I drove about 12 miles mainly on Connecticut hilly backroads to have breakfast with some friends. Except for a portion that was highway speeds, I disengaged OD. No occurrences then or at all today. Oh, the only thing the dealer did do was reflash the PCM with a March 09 update. The service manager didn't divulge what the reflash difference is. I have a 1000 miles until the first service. Until then, I'm keeping a diary, hoping to capture road conditions, speed, rpm, etc if/when it occurs. TL

What are the transmission shift points for the Edge? Also, usually they are overlapping? If it's in the manual, I sure couldn't find it. Thanks in advance. TL

I tried your suggestion. Put the Edge in cruise control at 42 mph. I approached the first hill and before the car gave it gas, it appeared to attempt a down shift and I felt the hesitation/jerky motion. Happened a couple more times in the next 5 miles. This morning I took a stretch of interstate and felt the same thing a 55-60mph. Once again, in cruise control. I had rejected the nervous foot syndrome thought knowing my driving habits (steady foot) but gave it a shot any way. If I drive aggressively, I can power through where it might occur but quite honestly, I shouldn't have to. A six speed transmission set up properly ought to be able to know the optimum shift points. Anyway, I guess I"ll continue trying different scenarios so I can (hopefully) make it repeatable when I take on the Ford dealership.

Jerky may not be a good descriptor but it's all that came to mind. Maybe hesitation is better. Regardless, my Edge is a 2008 AWD with about 5500 miles. When the engine is running about 1000-1400 RPM with speed of 40-43 MPH, with a steady throttle, and I come to a hill (however slight), the transmission will sometimes (more often lately) get jerky like it's gear hunting or can't make up it's mind what gear to be in. Usually, there's one jerky then it's okay but occasionally, it continues for 2-3 "jerkys". I can't tell if its lost between gears or trying to engage a gear too low or what. I'd be interested if others have seen this issue and if so, did it get resolved satisfactorily? Thx.

Not only does the plastic facia on the inside facing of the door hold water but also the lip at the bottom of the door sheet metal. Seems like such a simple design fix to remedy but before I take a file out I want the dealer's take and acknowledgement that it's their problem. If the color wasn't white sand, I doubt I would've noticed it.

While washing my Edge this morning, I noticed some surface rust on the inside front corner of both rear doors. The area is where the external door metal is welded to the inside door metal about 2 inches in front of the door drain holes. It looks like water in this area has no where to go and can't drain to the plastic edging. Has anyone else seen this? I have my first oil change at the dealer next week (freeby) and thought it a good time to raise the issue. Thx, TL

I've had cars that auto locked and, for me, it was more annoying than helpful. My suggestion, just get in the habit of hitting the power lock toggle when you operate the latch to open the door. Lex's is also a good option.

I can see a red wire coming out of the A/C adapter. I'm assuming it's the hot one? I don't have any color code information. The area around and behind the adapter is pretty dense with "stuff" so it's hard to tell if there is very much wire slack or not. Wire looks small in diameter - 22-24 guage maybe? Why am I doing this? I have a XM receiver plugged into the adapter all the time, which means every stop needs not only turning the receiver off (preserve the lithium ion battery) but pulling the plug as well. Draining the car battery shortens life. I also sometimes use a GPS. When both are in use, I plug both into 2 way adapter splitter. I suppose I could drop $10 and buy a 3 way adapter splitter with a switch, which would be okay. They are not that easy to find even though Crutchfield has a Maxsa that would work. I just thought the switching the source would be cleaner. Not to mention I don't want to take on trying to wire up a switching relay because of the lack of wire color code info. That's it. Thx, TL

My hope is to install a single pole switch in the wiring of the A/C adapter beneath the radio and heater controls. Since Ford doesn't switch the A/C adapters with the ignition, the best option for me is to install a switch. I've removed the big main cover above the power point. Looking down at the adapter, the job would be easier if I could remove it to splice the wiring to a switch. Locating a spot for a switch looks easy. How do I remove the A/C adapter (slide it forward assuming sufficient wire slack) or the plastic panel that's it's attached to? Looks like either would give me access to the wires to splice in the switch. Thanks in advance. TL