TN_Yank

I'm running the standard bulbs supplied by Ford, whatever they are. H11/35W as I recall, altho the power may be 55 watt instead.

A topic I'd like to know as well. I have not even been able to find the blind spot mirrors with heating at any of the usual discount fort parts suppliers. I do know that at least on my car (2010 SE), the wiring harness does NOT have the wiring for heated mirrors, nor is there a relay for that. Not insurmountable, but not a simple "plug and play" either.

As of 2012 Model Year, they ARE mandated here in US.

With incidentals (wiring, shrink tubing, wire sleeve, etc) I probably spend about $275-300 And yes I could have drilled a hole in the firewall, but didn't because: -concerns over bare metal rusting -concerns over whats on other side maybe I was penny-wise and pound foolish, but that was my thinking. Dave

Maybe if enough of us call the Ford Hotline we'll get action. 1.800.392.FORD Dave

Fog Light Installation is DONE!!!!!!! And works well. Items I had to purchase: - Chromed plastic bezels (one left and one right) - Fog Light Assemblies (2) - H11 Bulb connectors (2) - Headlight Switch with "fog" position The one amateur-looking part of the job was penetrating the firewall with the hot lead for the lights (as well as the temperature sensor wires for another mod I did at the same time, a different rear-view mirror with temp and compass). The only reasonable option was to slit the rubber boot used for the main wiring harness firewall penetration. I resealed it on both sides with silicone caulk but it still isn't "professional". The hardest part was figuring out how to physically connect the hot lead to the correct plastic connector block on the Smart Junction Block (Fuse box). As mentioned before, there is a male connector physically in the SJB that provides power to the fog lights when the headlight switch is turned to that appropriate position. But there is no corresponding female connector in the plastic connector block. It's a non-standard (in terms of parts from Radio-shack or auto parts store) connector. I searched and located an unused connector in the rear of the car. It apparently is for the power lift gate switch, which I don't have. I learned how to disassemble the connector and remove the individual metal connectors. (Carefully release retaining clips that hold the red "face" in the connector, and then release another plastic tab the holds the individual wire in to housing.) I used one of the metal connectors I "salvaged" to connect my hot lead into the SJB and all is well. It works like it should and LOOKS like is should (except for the firewall penetration). I'm a happy camper.

Maybe no one has access to FREE Carfax???? I sure don't. Anyway, glad you got what you need.

Does installing LED's in the taillight/rear turn signals stop the problem? And now a dummy question..... And does anyone have pix or a good description of how different in terms of looks and brightness the LEDs are compared to stock incandescent?

Glad your wife is ok...... Lets all go out and slay a Bambi.. reduce the deer strikes

SWEET look!!!

Not much pre-existing. Nearly everything electrical is massed all together in one huge bundle with some sort of rubber diaphragm twisted about it. A few mechanical connections: such as steering wheel and hood release cable. I may go to autoparts store and see if there is any boot that can be used.

That would be me. I have everything I need except the connectors that plug into the bulbs. They are on order from ebay. Once I have them I will mfr a wiring harness and hook everything up. My only unresolved problems are exactly where to penetrate the firewall and exactly how to utilize the existing connector into the SJB. (The SJB has the male power spade connector for fogs power, but the associated plug-in does not have the corresponding female spade connection. One possibility is to "drill" out the slot so that my own female connector can fit through it.) Dave

GREAT Job, Dadrett.... Thanks for posting and pix. A couple questions: In the cup holder lighting mod, I assume the resister is needed in order to reduce 12 volts to 4 volts? And did you have to be careful to place the resister where heat isn't an issue? I'm wondering how much illumination you get in the cup holders? I'm hoping the answer is "minimal". I want to do a similar mod but I don't want a bright glare on a dark night; just barely enough light to locate the cup holder as I return my coffee cup to it.

Let us know how you make out with this, Mark Dave

I use both a 4 gig thumb drive and a 4 gig mp3 player hooked up to the USB port and get full functionality with both. As far as I know the only difference is that the thumb drive won't play protected media, but then again neither will some mp3 players.