TN_Yank

I'm running the standard bulbs supplied by Ford, whatever they are. H11/35W as I recall, altho the power may be 55 watt instead.

A topic I'd like to know as well. I have not even been able to find the blind spot mirrors with heating at any of the usual discount fort parts suppliers. I do know that at least on my car (2010 SE), the wiring harness does NOT have the wiring for heated mirrors, nor is there a relay for that. Not insurmountable, but not a simple "plug and play" either.

As of 2012 Model Year, they ARE mandated here in US.

With incidentals (wiring, shrink tubing, wire sleeve, etc) I probably spend about $275-300 And yes I could have drilled a hole in the firewall, but didn't because: -concerns over bare metal rusting -concerns over whats on other side maybe I was penny-wise and pound foolish, but that was my thinking. Dave

Maybe if enough of us call the Ford Hotline we'll get action. 1.800.392.FORD Dave

Fog Light Installation is DONE!!!!!!! And works well. Items I had to purchase: - Chromed plastic bezels (one left and one right) - Fog Light Assemblies (2) - H11 Bulb connectors (2) - Headlight Switch with "fog" position The one amateur-looking part of the job was penetrating the firewall with the hot lead for the lights (as well as the temperature sensor wires for another mod I did at the same time, a different rear-view mirror with temp and compass). The only reasonable option was to slit the rubber boot used for the main wiring harness firewall penetration. I resealed it on both sides with silicone caulk but it still isn't "professional". The hardest part was figuring out how to physically connect the hot lead to the correct plastic connector block on the Smart Junction Block (Fuse box). As mentioned before, there is a male connector physically in the SJB that provides power to the fog lights when the headlight switch is turned to that appropriate position. But there is no corresponding female connector in the plastic connector block. It's a non-standard (in terms of parts from Radio-shack or auto parts store) connector. I searched and located an unused connector in the rear of the car. It apparently is for the power lift gate switch, which I don't have. I learned how to disassemble the connector and remove the individual metal connectors. (Carefully release retaining clips that hold the red "face" in the connector, and then release another plastic tab the holds the individual wire in to housing.) I used one of the metal connectors I "salvaged" to connect my hot lead into the SJB and all is well. It works like it should and LOOKS like is should (except for the firewall penetration). I'm a happy camper.

Maybe no one has access to FREE Carfax???? I sure don't. Anyway, glad you got what you need.

Does installing LED's in the taillight/rear turn signals stop the problem? And now a dummy question..... And does anyone have pix or a good description of how different in terms of looks and brightness the LEDs are compared to stock incandescent?

Glad your wife is ok...... Lets all go out and slay a Bambi.. reduce the deer strikes

SWEET look!!!

Not much pre-existing. Nearly everything electrical is massed all together in one huge bundle with some sort of rubber diaphragm twisted about it. A few mechanical connections: such as steering wheel and hood release cable. I may go to autoparts store and see if there is any boot that can be used.

That would be me. I have everything I need except the connectors that plug into the bulbs. They are on order from ebay. Once I have them I will mfr a wiring harness and hook everything up. My only unresolved problems are exactly where to penetrate the firewall and exactly how to utilize the existing connector into the SJB. (The SJB has the male power spade connector for fogs power, but the associated plug-in does not have the corresponding female spade connection. One possibility is to "drill" out the slot so that my own female connector can fit through it.) Dave

GREAT Job, Dadrett.... Thanks for posting and pix. A couple questions: In the cup holder lighting mod, I assume the resister is needed in order to reduce 12 volts to 4 volts? And did you have to be careful to place the resister where heat isn't an issue? I'm wondering how much illumination you get in the cup holders? I'm hoping the answer is "minimal". I want to do a similar mod but I don't want a bright glare on a dark night; just barely enough light to locate the cup holder as I return my coffee cup to it.

Let us know how you make out with this, Mark Dave

I use both a 4 gig thumb drive and a 4 gig mp3 player hooked up to the USB port and get full functionality with both. As far as I know the only difference is that the thumb drive won't play protected media, but then again neither will some mp3 players.

Mine is a 2010 SE with autolamps. I asked to have the DRL's turned on and the answer from service department was "not available on this model" I think (THINK) the problem is that the Ford service computer software has the option to turn on the lamps disabled in any area that doesn't require them by law (eg Canada) So even tho the lamps COULD be turned on, it cannot be done with the service department computer. This is from the service manual: "Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) The SJB can be configured to turn the DRL on for this vehicle. Refer to MODULE CONFIGURATION article for additional information on this programmable parameter. The DRL system operates the low beam headlamps at a reduced intensity. The SJB supplies pulse-width modulated (PWM) voltage to illuminate the low beam headlamps at a reduced intensity." It seems to me this is a knee jerk reaction from Ford in response to the fact that GM pioneered DRL's and the research proving they are effective. I'f anyone can find a way around this, I'd sure like to know.

At least to begin with, I'm staying stock. I'm not sure what the stock bulb is, I just know the fog light assembly came with a bulb, H11/55W. From reading posts, it seems that yellow is really best for cutting thru fog. So later I may change to yellow if the stock bulbs are not. We do have a lot of pea soup fog here in east Tennessee. Dave

Sure could wire from the battery with an appropriate relay, etc. I guess I neglected to mention that a goal of mine is to retain "stock" appearance and functionality on the fog lights. So if you keep "stock" components, the only way I know of is as I describes above. Dave

You do indeed need the chromed hole cover's.. about $35.00 each at: http://fordpartscenter.net/partlocator/ind...playCatalogid=0 Dave

My vehicle is an 2010 Edge SE, but I believe the same info applies to other models as well. There has been a lot of discussion here on how to install OEM fog lights, including can it even be done!. After a lot of research and testing, I finally have some answers. There is no wiring harness pre-installed running to the lamps. If your Edge didn't have fogs from the factory, you'll have to make your own. You'll need to replace the headlight switch with a "with fogs" version. This is a simple task, and can be done without going behind the dash. The original sw can be carefully pried out without marring the surround, and the new one plugs directly into the wiring harness. In this case, the harness DOES have all necessary wiring between the switch and the SJB (Smart Junction Box, aka fuse box). The SJB contains all the components required: microprocessor logic, relay, and (at least in my car) even the fuse for the fog lamp (F21, 15 Amp) already installed. You can verify that all is working properly after replacing the headlight switch by setting all the conditions for the fogs to work (car running, "Lo Beam" or "Auto", etc) and pulling out the switch to turn the fogs on. You'll see the fog indicator on the sw illuminate for the fogs and if you listen carefully, you'll hear the relay click in. Here's where it gets tricky. The SJB feed for factory fog lights is via connector C2280e, pin 3 and from there to the lamps via a brn/yel wire. That brn/yel wire is not installed (nor is the ground wire running from the lamps). I verified that there is a spade connector in the SJB that the wire would normally connect to. All I had to do was push a probe wire into the connector, slot 3, and hook a test lamp between that probe wire and ground. When I turned on the fogs, the test light lit up. SO I still have left to do: - find a suitable female wire end to push into the connector to marry to the spade "male" portion in the SJB. That may turn out to be the biggest challenge. It isn't a stock Radio Shack connector. - route the above feed wire thru the firewall and to the front of the car, making it look "OEM" so some Barney Fife type technician doesn't void my warranty for aftermarket installation. - find a stock connector for the bulbs. - and hook up a ground. There is a suitable grounding location existing on top of the frame just forward of the battery junction box. Bottom line: It CAN be done. Just some small problems yet to solve. Any ideas on how to complete? Dave

Does anyone have a good (free) cross-reference for the wiring colors? For example, "GY/VT" logically seems to be gray with a violet stripe, but I've learned the hard lesson over the years that it ain't necessarily so! Thanks Dave

Anyone have any experience with it? Recommendations for or against?

Anyone know this product? http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/918...e-repair-manual Dave

Thanks All... I was quite sure the dealer was so full of "it" that even his eyes were brown... but kept my quiet, prefering to ask you all. Yours answers make sense and I tank you again Dave

When my local dealer delivered my Edge, he. all puffed up proud, proclaimed "and you'll NEVER need to wax this car because of the special finish..." Me (mentally): "Yeah, right, and that bridge for sale??" What does the brain trust think? Any truth to this claim?