MKX2007

I tried a FL-400S and it was the right filter. Threads are the wrong size. Fram showed that correct filter was a PH3600, but that one had the same issue. Anyone else having problems finding a filter that fits?

The PH3600 fits my 07 MKX. I used to have an 05 F150 & discovered when I went to the store that the book listed 2 different filters. The PH8A which has been widely used since the late 50's & the PH3600. I bought one of each since I wasn't sure which one I needed. Turns out that mine was the PH8A. I kept the PH3600 & when I got the MKX, I looked up what I needed before going to the store & realized I already had one.

I would tend to agree for body type damage - dings, accidents, dents - where the actual paint is involved. but with just the clear coat lifting, I wonder if this still applies.

I would think they would sand the edges & fog in another clear coat & then buff it out. I have a friend with a collectable car that had a new headliner installed in his car. The shop guy managed to hit the roof with a staple & made a good sized ding from the inside out. They repaired it & fogged the paint on & after buffing, you would never know it happened.

Isn't it also possible the paint robot simply had a problem?

This is what I was thinking or repaired tranportation damage like I had happen to a truck I bought.

Here is TSB t hat might assist you. Access is a powerful thing, Knowledge helps as well.

 

TSB 08-26-6

 

01/05/09

 

WHITE FLAKES COMING FROM NC VENTS

FORD:

2002-2005 Crown Victoria

2005 Focus

2000-2005 Expedition, F-150

2007-2009 Edge

 

LINCOLN:

2000-2002 Town Car

2000-2005 Navigator

2007-2009 MKX

 

MERCURY:

2002-2005 Grand Marquis

 

This article supersedes TSB 05-10-11 to update the vehicle lines covered.

ISSUE

Some vehicles may experience white flakes coming from the A/C vents when the blower motor is engaged. This may be caused by flux utilized in the manufacturing process of the evaporator core.

 

ACTION

Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.

 

SERVICE PROCEDURE

 

Using compressed air 90-150 PSI (620-1034 kPa), clean the A/C ducts through the registers and blow off the evaporator core through the blower motor opening.

NOTE THE ENTIRE EVAPORATOR CORE SURFACE MUST BE DRY FOR BEST RESULTS.

 

NOTE WHILE PERFORMING THIS PROCEDURE AND SELECTING DIFFERENT VENT MODES SUCH AS FLOOR / PANEL AND FLOOR / DEFROST, IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO TEMPORARILY START THE ENGINE TO ENABLE MODE DOOR MOVEMENT.

 

Clean A/C Ducts:

1. Remove floor duct trim.

 

2. Using masking tape, connect one end of the vacuum cleaner hose to the floor duct on driver side.

 

3. Tape closed all the other floor duct openings.

 

4. Obtain about two feet of rubber vacuum line large enough to fit the end of a small shop air blowgun. Secure the hose to the end of the blowgun using a worm clamp.

 

5. Close all instrument panel registers.

 

6. Set temperature setting to full cold.

 

7. Place mode in floor / panel.

 

8. Turn on vacuum cleaner.

 

9. Working with one register at a time insert the vacuum line down each duct and blow shop air through each duct for 30 seconds. Be sure to close each register before moving on to the next register.

 

10. Change mode to floor / defrost.

 

11. Blow down each defroster duct for 30 seconds.

 

12. Alternate mode door between floor and floor / defrost three (3) times, giving the door time to move between each change.

 

13. Turn off vacuum cleaner.

 

Clean Evaporator Core:

1. Change mode to full floor.

 

2. Ensure temperature is full cold.

 

3. Remove blower motor per Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 412-02.

 

4. Turn on vacuum cleaner.

 

5. Reach into blower opening with vacuum line and proceed to blow shop air for a minimum of 5 minutes, utilizing a very slow sweeping action.

 

6. Blow the entire core face in the up and down direction, then repeat moving from side to side.

 

NOTE ATTENTION TO THE BLOW-OFF OF THE EVAPORATOR CORE SURFACE WILL DETERMINE EFFECTIVENESS OF REPAIR.

 

7. Install the blower motor per WSM, Section 412-2.

 

8. Open all registers.

 

9. Operate the system with A/C on and blower on Max in each mode setting with the temperature full cold and then full warm. Be sure to stay in each mode position for at least 30 seconds to ensure removal of any residual flakes I dust.

 

10. Disconnect vacuum cleaner and remove tape from floor duct.

 

11. Assemble floor duct trim.

 

12. Blow powder off or vacuum dash board and vehicle interior as required.

 

WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage

IMPORTANT : Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.

Wow; Sounds like a lot of work. Thanks for the info. I'll give my dealership a call.

Hi legally yours. :D You are welcome.

 

I was just curious: What about #6? Do you regularly drive with your HVAC controls set to "AUTO', "AC" or "Defrost"? Having the A/C system engaged on a continuous basis will create a significant parasitic MPG loss.

 

Good luck. :beerchug:

I keep my A/C on auto & I live in a hot climate, 100 plus. I have a feeling something else is wrong.

My 07 MKX does it & has since new. I asked the dealer to check when it was in for the transmission banging into gear. they claim they couldn't see it, even though it does it every time I start the car. It collects all over the face of the radio & the middle of the back seat. I wear contacts & have to turn my head away till the dust settles or the grit gets in my eyes. I just replaced the cabin filter again about a month ago. This may be material from the filter itself, since it seems to be worst after replacing the filter. I've never seen this on any car I've ever owned. I have a 40 year old car as well & no dust comes out when the A/C starts & trust me, the 40 year old one puts out far more volume then the MKX does.

Make sure the tires are at the correct air pressure. Check that the air filter is clean. The regular factory type works just fine. I get about 23 MPG on my 07 MKX, 50/50 city highway driving.

Once the clear coat starts peeling, it will progress rapidly. If you bought new, this certainly must still be under warranty? It looks almost as though something happened there & was fixed poorly. Wouldn't hurt to get a Carfax for the heck of it.

we did go back and they "greased" it up. what is that all about? Ive had moon roofs in my vehicles for the last few now and all have worked flawlessly even up to 140k miles on one car.

 

and how often will this happen?

I haven't seen that many complaints about this problem, so you may never have to worry about it again. I've had mine for 2 years & haven't had any problems yet. Glad they took care of you quickly.

I think there was an issue with not enough grease on the tracks early on. Should be an easy fix. Bring it back.

I remember when Chrysler did this in the 80s by eliminating their bigger engines with the smaller 4 cylinder turbo. I got one of those cars, and it was a nightmare.

I had a Dodge Daytona Shelby Z, my first new car. I din't have any mechanical problems at all with it. You neded to use at least 89 octane for it to run satisfactory. Also, it had far better performance during cold weather then when it was hot. The worst thing on them was the long turbo lag. Once it got going, the performance was surprisingly good.

I use a product called Mother. Its in a red spray bottle called " Mothers Preserve".

We have the black dash also. This product is great you can use it on the outside moldings, interior.

Also have a 66 mustang and I use it on the hoses on the engine too.

I have used Armor All but find it collects dust and it really is no good for your dash.

Other guys in our car club also use lemon pledge on the dash.

Mothers Preserves is a good product. It protects without being sticky & shiny. Armour All is one of the worst products you can use. It contains silicone & seals the pores in the vinyl. This will eventually destroy it.

I just had my 2009 Edge Limited (with Vista Roof) headliner repaired at the dealer because the adhesive, used to attach the (headliner) Velcro fastener to the roof did not stick, causing the the headliner to droop down about 1 1/2 inches in the area of the rear interior light assembly.

 

Fix was to use an upgraded adhesive on the Velcro fastener; according to the service representative this issue has been seen on several other late model Fords and the problem was found to be that the adhesive used (apparently) couldn't take the Texas heat (which had been running over 100 Degrees F daily for several weeks in July and still gets in the upper 90's).

This is a common problem that Ford is well aware of. In 07 when I was looking to buy, several of the cars on the dealer lot already had the headliner hanging down. Mine came down a few week s after purchase. I pushed it back up & it stayed for a couple of months & came down again. The dealer fixed it pretty near 2 years ago & its still OK. I'm a little left of you where its been well over 100 for the past month.

I think they called those frame outriggors in the old days (60's) when cars had a real frame under them. The body to frame bolts were attached there.

There is a lot to see online. When shopping I used the internet to get the info and pics I needed and also bought a consumer reports on suv's-priceless info in there.

I do the internet research first & when I think its something I may concider for my next purchase, I send for the brochure. There's something special about the feel & smell of that glossy paper.

This is my first year for looking at the EDGE/MKX and I am dissapointed with the thin brochure. Were the previous years thin as well. Is Ford saving money or something?

 

If I were running the advertisement campaign I would offer a contest to EDGE/MKX owners to send in pics of their vehicle somewhere scenic, or being at a fun/interesting event, show it in action, etc. etc. The winners would get their pics used in ads and in the brochure, and maybe free gas/maint. or discounted accessories? Some of the pictures on this site are just as good if not better than the ones in the thin brochure.

 

 

Oh yeah, I've narrowed down my decision to a 2007 MKX with everything. Now the color choice (Black, Silver or Grey ... hmmm)

The older brochures are large & quite thick with a lot of photos & details.

I recently sent for one on the new Taurus & its a tiny matt finished that folds out to 3 sections. Not impressive to say the least. For me, the brochure is what builds the excitement for the car. After I can't stand it anymore, I start shopping. At this rate, I'll have my 07 MKX for some time. That's OK though because I like it.

He didn't say it sounded funny or strange. He said:

 

 

 

What difference does it make which side of the car the horn sound comes from? Is it written somewhere that the horn has to sound from one particular part of the vehicle?

It may be written somewhere. I would expect the sound to come from a central location, not from either side. In a critical situation, other drivers would tend to base their reaction on where the sound of the horn is coming from.

I thought it was a perfectly accurate and funny response to a very silly question.

Well, In the case that it has 2 horns, its not the least bit helpful. Like he said, he just took delivery. How does he know what the normal sound should be? Thats like saying if the transmission shifts, don't worry about the strange noises or the fluid dripping out of it?

Like you said, its 2 years old. If they offered invoice right away, its certainly not the best deal they can offer. The other thing that I'd be concerned about why its not selling, since its the right color & has all the right accessories. I'd get a Car Fax to be sure it wasn't damaged. Some dealers buy this type of vehicle at a big discount. I found this out the hard way. I bought a new Lightning & I brought in for some service one time & happened to notice when the sun was in the right direction I could see that part of one side had been repainted. They tried to tell me nothing was wrong even though it was plain as day. I later found out it was transportation damage to the door & roof.

Just in case you didn't know this, the cabin filter is located behind the glovebox. I brought my MKX to the dealer complaining about a cloud of dust coming out the vents when the system starts. The service advisor was looking under the hood for the filter & said I must not have one. Once I figured out where it was, I removed it & it was packed solid with debris. I replaced it & most of the dust stopped. A year later & the dust problem has returned. I just ordered another new filter.

If it is very light the glas folks should be able to buff it out. I would think they would have some sort of polishing agent for that sort of thing as windshields often get pinged and nicked by small grains of sand or grit all the time.

I think the stuff is sirium oxide or something like that. There is a company called Eastwood that sells a lot of car hobbiest/restoration items & they have a do it yourself kit. Rather then risk making a mess, I would go to a glass shop. If you can't feel the damage with your fingernail, they should be able to get at least most of it out.

nah i dont think it would, i wish i knew how drastic the change would be if i simply replaced the sub

There's very little room under the seat. That box wouldn't come close to fitting with the seats up. A better bet might be to get a JL Audio Stealthbox. It fits the original sub location with a slight mod to the grill.

One post is sufficient.

The same might be said to you also, since you posted the same unhelpful response in at least 3 threads.

Mine came on last week while driving on the highway. After shutting off & restarting it went out. It did this one other time when near new, Its an 07 with 15,000 miles.

If its supposed to fit & doesn't, I would think Gibson would take care of the problem painted or not.