MKX2007

The filter location is behind the glovebox. To remove the glovebox door, you need to squeeze the upper rear corners inward & the door will come forward & lift completely off. There is a realease tab on the right side of the filter access door. Open that up & remove the dirty filter. If it was like mine, it will be packed full of debris. Wipe out remianing dirt & reinstall everything in reverse.

I changed mine after having it at the dealer for low A/C output & dust coming out ot the vents when first turning it on. The dealer said all was fine, which of coarse was not.

Ford had finally decided to release its information on the 2009 Edge on the website on Halloween. A couple of key items are missing though. No price or information on the Navigation system or the Illuminated door sill plates. Lets go blue oval guys, get it together. We want to see these items also.

Same thing with MKX. It will let you build & price, but those items don't come up.

What gets me is how come so few owners apparently complain about this. Is it that they don't discuss it on the Internet or that there are only a small % affected ? I'd bet on the first option.

I don't have these wheels, but probably wouldn't notice the noise, since I never drive with the windows open & always have the radio on. Perhaps, this is why so few complaints?

There have got to be some pretty crappy dealers out there if they can't follow up on something as small as this. Things like this are how I judge a dealship. It may be only a 1 dollar item, but it sort of sets the tone for everything else in the future at that dealership. If you are talking to a salesman, I'd go the manager/owner of the dealership & let them know how I feel. They don't want & can't afford negative publicity right now, so they should bend over backwards to get this taken care of.

Here is one article on tuning that suggests that if the engine is stock, the factory setting is the best overall.

Tune Into This - Engine Tuning 101

AFR, MAP, IAT... Confused? Not Anymore

all contributors: Ryan McKay

Good tuning is the key to unlocking the potential of any engine. OE manufacturers spend ungodly amounts of time, money and research fine-tuning engines to run as efficiently as possible at all times, under any conceivable operational conditions. Simply put, if your engine is stock, it's unlikely you can get a better overall tune than the one it came with. Make a few changes though and things can change rather quickly.

An internal combustion engine is basically like a big air pump. As it comes equipped from the factory, it will flow a set amount of air based on things like engine speed, load, etc and is tuned accordingly. When changes are made to the things that regulate the amount of air that gets into an engine (cams, header, intake, forced-induction, etc.), changes need to be made to the engine management to compensate. This entails adjusting fuel and/or ignition timing, at minimum if the engine's potential is to be realized.

Basically, when airflow is increased, fuel delivery must be increased accordingly. The goal is to get the fuel and the air into the engine in the correct ratios. But don't be fooled into thinking that tweaking the air/fuel ratio (AFR) is the only thing that needs to be addressed when making serious changes--it's not that simple.

Getting more air and fuel into the engine means that there is a bigger explosion happing, which means higher temps and pressures in the combustion chamber, which can dramatically increase the chance of detonation and engine damage. As such, ignition timing often must be adjusted as well.

While comprehensive tuning involves more than just tuning the fuel delivery and ignition timing, they are 90 percent of the equation. Also, if these two things are in order and set conservatively, chances of engine survival are good.

Just like everything in life, tuning is about compromises. The key to getting the best tune is to balance maximum power and engine safety, without running the car on the threshold of destruction. Twenty years ago, tuners relied primarily on their eyes, ears, noses and timeslips to tune, which required years of experience. Today, thanks to modern fuel injection systems, we have a mess of sensors under the hood, which makes things a lot easier.

- Check out the following pages for more engine tuning info!

Since they are suggesting it could be fuel related, you may want to try another station or brand to see if any change.

I'm a little new to the aftermarket world so can someone explain to me how these tuners work? I don't understand why the auto manufacturers don't just tune them for more power and better mileage at the factory.

I used to subscribe to a truck magazine. An article I read about engine mods stated that many of them do improve performance. However, they also make the engine work harder & will likely shorten its life.

Hi MKX2007. :D Just a couple of FYI's concerning what you stated above.

 

First: As per our Owners Manual, the factory fill is not any sort of special "break-in" oil. The engine is filled from the factory with Motorcraft 5W-20 Semi-Synthetic. It is the same Semi-Synthetic you can buy off the shelf at any auto store that carries it (WalMart also stocks it). Absolutely nothing special about it. The Owners Manual simply states do not add any "friction modifiers" during the "break-in" period.

 

Next: Officially, the "break-in" period for our vehicles is only the first 1,000 miles (as per our Owners Manuals). That's it. While conventional wisdom states that the engine will continue to "break-in" and even see a fuel mileage increase through as much as the first 5,000 miles, the "break-in" period is still only the first 1,000 miles.

 

So officially, you can replace the factory oil fill as soon as you drive the car home if you like (would be foolish, but you can). My personal opinion is that a full synthetic could be considered a "friction modifier", so I would advise (my opinion) waiting at least 1,000 miles before filling with a full synthetic oil.

 

Me? I follow the Maintenance Schedule, 7,500 miles or 6 months. Since I only put about 5,500-6,000 miles per year on this car, I wind up changing every 6 months with about 3,000 miles on the oil. And I do not bother doing a first oil change early the first 1,000 miles (some insist you should change as early as 500-1,000 miles). I simply do my first oil change at 6 months (again, about 3,000 miles for me).

 

Hope the "break-in" information helps.

 

Good luck. :beerchug:

As bbf2530 pointed out, that used to be the case but with today's engines the tolerances are much tighter and the parts are better such that no special oil or procedure is required. Follow the factory guidelines and you'll be fine.

Thanks for clarifying that. I also follow the maintenance schedule & have never had engine problems on any car I've owned.

My advice is to save your money. When I bought my Lightning, the dealer tried to sell me all the way out the door & even offered to rewrite the contract at a lower interest rate if I took the warranty. That made things crystal clear. In the 10 years & 190,000 miles I owned it, I don't think I spent $2000.00 in repairs on it. Five years later, I still see it around town on occassion.

I was under the impression that the oil that comes in the engine when new is supposed to stay through the breakin period?

Is this pretty much plug & play or will the THX need a mod to use it?

Give Crutchfield a try. They offer a lot of advice to make a good choice. http://www.crutchfield.com

I replaced my cabin air filter $24 & the air flow is somewhat better. It still sends a fair amount of dust out the center vents when it starts up. I got the filter from my dealer. They had to order it. Parts America lists it Motorcraft HP65, but they don't have them.

only problem i see with the touch screen is do you really want sticky little fingers pressing on a flat screen. There is a reason your hdtv at home isnt touch screen that is what remote controls are for. Just my $.02

I agree with you there. All of the cars I see at the dealers that have the protective film removed from the nav screen are covered with fingerprints. Touch screen technology seems to be growing though. Many of the higher end computers are trying to do away with the keyboard are are going touch screen. Same with iPods & cellphones.

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I am glad it worked out for you, hopefully I will be equally as satisfied. Add-ons are typically not discounted for X planners however, I know A plan does offer an incremental discount (very small) since I am one. Was the cost of the Sirius for a lifetime membership?

 

Your ride sounds very nice... thank you for the information.

The price for Sirius was just for the tuner & to install it. No service at all. I factory ordered my car because at the time, I thought I didn't want nav & they couldn't find one with everything else I wanted. I forgot to ask for Sirius & by the time I woke up, the car was on its way to being shipped.

I have a feeling that the Audiovox units should be fine. The company has been in business a long time.

To be honest with you I did not like the factory brand look. Plus there are 3 different versions they sell at the dealer those with the most similar functionality (play 1 on both/play 2 consecutively) were around $1995.00 before taxes (.13%).

 

I chose the Audiovox primarily because of the 3 year manufactures warranty. Additional reasons were as follows:

touch screen, USB port, IPOD compatibility, SD card slot and built in Video games also with the compatibility to hook up PS2 and Xbox.

 

However with that being said my other choices were Myron & Davis and Vizualogic. I did not choose M&D because I was not big on the opening at the top (big flap). I would have chosen Vizualogic based on looks alone since I thought they do a great job on matching the OEM and I like the sleek design of the DVD very minimal mostly screen with a small border. However these would be shipped within 5 business days.

 

My Audiovox arrive tomorrow which is another great deal (1 day shipping), and will be installed on Friday at 4:00pm.

 

So hopefully all goes well the installers do work for Village ford and other Ford dealerships in Michigan and seem very professional. This system will cost me in total $1400.00 all taxes and installation in.

 

I will let you know how the so called cheopo brands work out. It was reassuring to hear the other fellow on this forum had very good luck with the Audiovox brand.

 

At the end of the day its only money and nothing lasts forever

I just checked & mine were actually $1695.00 installed. They play individual or same on both.Plus, it has jacks to add games. The best thing about them is that the headrest is adjustable foeward & back. Some don't like the headrests that lean way forward. I think the lower price is because of X plan. I forgot to ask for Sirius when I ordered mine & as you can see, I paid way too much for that as a dealer add on.

The Head Rest DVD is $1,695 installed

Sirus Radio $495 installed

Spring lowering kit $795 installed

Tint $150 installed

thanks for the info I am almost sorry I did not check this post sooner. I made a quick decision to purchase the Audiovox touch-screens this evening they are costing my about $1400 with install. I sure hope I don't regret the decision. I will let you know. Thanks in advance.

If your spending that much, You might just as well have bought the Invision that the dealer installs. They cost me $1595.00 installed.

Thanks.

I'll look that over.

I bought one from them & it looks good & the fit is also very good.

Try Magnaflow. They have 2 listings for the Edge/MKX. One states dual rear exit & the other dual split rear exit.

IT WILL NOT FIT FOR SURE UNLESS YOU MODIFY IT TO FIT UNDER THE REAR SWAY BAR.

Gibsob Performance says that their engineers spoke directly to Ford and they were told that the rear ends on the FWD and AWD are identical but as an owner, this is not true. You do not have the rear drive train to work around on the FWD. Gibson just told me to return ny Cat Back but I am going to modify the rear muffler section and extension pipe to fit. SHould have it done tomorrow. Sucks that they advertise it as a direct bolt on for the AWD without the proper R&D.

A big company like Gibson putting stuff like this on the market doesn't say much for them. How do they know if their products work/fit the application if they don't actually install one?

No, there is another screen that I THINK says average mpg. That number doesn't seem to add up to me either.

OK, I read the owners manual. That screen shows average speed.

37 MPG !!!!!!!!!!! ??????????

 

You must have a hybrid version that the rest of us don't know about!

No, there is another screen that I THINK says average mpg. That number doesn't seem to add up to me either.

I think mine shows 37.

I would be curious what people leave their message center read out as normally? I see the only real message of value to me is the "XXX Miles To Empty" message and never switch off of that really.

I leave it on miles to empty. Once in a while, I check to see the MPG. Currently shows 22.1. Highest ever is 22.3.

I've read articles that strongly advise agains't using Armour All. I use Mothers Protectent. The Mothers leaves a very low sheen instead of the blinding glare that Armour All leaves.