L1TECH

I live in Phoenix so heat is an ongoing factor here. I have a 2010 and have no issues whatsoever. I leave the climate control set at 73 and even on the hottest days there is no problem cooling down the interior, the climate control even turns down the blower speed after a bit and this is on a Tuxedo black Edge....of course the windows are tinted so dark that you can't see through them but that is a necessity here. Like others have said if you have a system that has the cabin air filter it may be time for a change.

I think the key term there is that they recommend replacement and just like everyone else they have a waranty against manufacturing defects, they don't try to tell you that their product will last forever and if it doesn't they will replace it free of charge. I will admit that 20,0000 miles or so is a little soon to have shocks/struts replaced when the average is about 35,000 miles when they seriously start to decline in performance. ANd for some reason American car mfgs suspension seem to wear out faster than imports...go figure.

As tires wear there is less material on the tire itself so basically as the tires wear the tire becomes lighter, with that in mind it is only logicial that tires need a rebalance every now and then.

Don't even get me started on Monore products. I refuse to install Monroe products at my shop. One of my parts reps came in one day and inquired as to why I didn't use him for shocks/struts, I told him simply because he only carries Monroe. He only uses Monroe Reflexes on his personal truck. Eventually I talked him into a set of KYB MonoMaxes and he was simply amazed at the difference the KYB product made in his ride and handling verses the 3 month old Monroes he had on there, which by the way he had to change about once a year. We all have products we like and being that I rely on my customers happiness to provide for my family I only install what I believe in and what has proven to work for me. Congrats on not going airborne....I'm happy for you

The last vehicle we had, A 2008 Ford Sport Trac, at about 20,000 miles had started to chop the tires pretty bad and couldn't handle the speed rollers in our neighborhood with out he front and rear slamming loudly on the suspension rebound. No aftermarket company currently makes a replacement shock/strut for the 3rd genetration Sport Trac so that is othe only reason I took it back to Ford. As expected Ford found no issues, so myself along with the service manager drove a new one off of the lot which behaved very differently than mine under the same circumstances...they tried to tell me that mine was broken in is all. Like I said before people don't realize the slow degradation of the suspension because they get used to it and I don't mean to imply that all shocks/struts need replacing at 20,000 ish miles but no vehicle built will perform suspension wise at 80,000 miles like it did when new. I am an ASE master technician of 22 years now and believe me when I tell you that I am fully aware of how suspensions are supposed to react and what problems arise from worn suspension parts, i also am very well informed on the parts situation but let me just say this. If you are buying parts for your vehicle that have a lifetime warranty then you are making a huge mistake. Only parts companies who make cheap products and sell them for a premium price warranty their products for life against all problems. Sure every company backs their product against flaws in workmanship but a shock or strut wearing out is not a flaw in workmanship it's a natural occurance that is going to happen and there is nothing you can do to change that. BTW Bilstein is not the company it once was

^^^^^ Sorry but todays shocks/struts do not last 80,000 miles. Both of my last 2 new vehicles needed shocks/struts at around 22,000 miles. Both vehicles were Fords and both vehicles were driven by the wife back and forth to work on paved roads that are extremely smooth. Shocks/struts are and will continue to be the most overlooked item on a vehicle. And just for the record the Edge, along with any other vehicle, should never have to have weight in the back of it to keep the tires from wearing abnormally.

I am not trying to make you believe it, just stating my opinion based on my personal and my customers experiences. Like I said before the thing with shocks/struts is that they degrade slowly over time so the person driving the vehicle never even notices it until new ones are installed. As far as getting them warrantied that is another issue. Any mechanic worth a dam knows exactly what causes tire cupping but in the mfgs eyes unless the shock/strut is visibly leaking or has a mechanical defect they will not replace it, they will blame the tire wear on other issues and by time that you have figured out they are wrong the vehicle is out of warranty.

Tire cupping is caused by 2 things.1) out of balance tires, just because they felt fine on the front deosn't mean that they should be fine on the rear. 2) Weak shocks/struts. I don't know how many miles you have on yoru Edge but the factory shocks/struts are junk after about 20-25k miles, you just don't realize it because you have become used to the slow degradation over time. Rotating the tires should be done every oil change and on my personal vehicle that includes balancing. I just had to change my oil for the first time last week, 4900 miles, at that time I rotated and balanced the tires and 3 of the 4 tires were out of balance although the ride was still smooth. Alignment should be checked but if you have true cupping it is not due to alignment,. tire cupping is caused by the tires bouncing uncontrolled on the road surtface due to worn shocks/struts or out of balance, an alignment issue will not cause the tire to bounce. I have been an ASE master tech for 22 years now and trust me there is no other reason for tire cupping than what I have explained to you.

In order for Ford Customer Care to work one thing should be taking place that isn't...when call is placed to ford Customer Care both the customer and the service manager should be on the call at the same time. The problem is that the dealership is saying one thing to FCC but something different to the customer.

I understand your frustration but let me throw this out there. If they are replacing the whole engine with a new one that is only about 1000% better than having the dealership mechanic tear yours apart and replace parts like they already have so I would be thankful for that. I've said it before and I'll say it again, every car manufacturer has these problems and horror stories occassionally, unfortunately it is happening to you, however the biggest problem is the dealership that is doing the work on your vehicle. They obviously do not have a qualified technician there who can dagnose your vehicle. I am an automotive tech of 22 years and have been specializing in diagnostics for the last 10 years. I am used to getting vehicles that have been to multiple dealerships without being fixed and in all my time I have never had a vehicle more than 2 days without knowing what was wrong with it. The dealership is to balme for the majority of your problem.

That code indicates a ground fault with the right lowbeam headlamp. When this happens it shuts down the low beams alltogether until the codes are cleared from the SJB.

I have the system in my 2k10. I love it. I had a Pioneer Avic Z1 in a previous vehicle and I like this one alot better, and yes you can speak an address and it will find it but it takes some learning to used to the Sync system. I like looking at the Nav in he fly by mode..pretty cool IMO

I have one in my 2k10 along with a backuop camera....works awesome.

Like I said I understand your frustration but fact of the matter is that Ford, or any other manufacturer, is never going to give you a new vehicle just because you are having a problem. The best that you could hope for is a lemon law case adn I don't know if they have that up there. In all actuality your problem doesn't sound all that troublesome to figure out. If you have 1 bank of the motor not firing on an ohc engine, and you have fuel and spark then there has to be a timing issue, that problem could either be that the cam has jumped a tooth on that side or perpahs the cam timing controller is stuck and causing the timing to be off. Do they have compression readings? Do they have a vacuum reading? You are being emotional about this situation, I probbaly would be also, but to say that this vehicle is highly defective is a bit of a stretch. Is the dealer that you have the vehicle at a larger dealer or just a small town one. Sometimes the small town dealers just don't have the qualified personnel to handle a more complex issue and this problem should have been figured out in no more than 2 days

I just read this post and can understand your frustration. Don't be so quick to blame the dealership as they are at the mercy of Ford but they should be giving you regular updates. There is more than likely an odd situation going on with your vehicle that they haven't seen before so the engineers are looking at it, unfortunately they are not physically looking at it and are relying on the techs at the dealership for their info...this can be a huge problem sometimes. The dealership can only do what Ford tells them to do as it is Ford that is paying the dealership to do the work adn Ford just doesn't give money out for an engine replacement without proper diagnosis not matter how upset you get. Every vehicle manufacturer has these issues and they all pretty much handle them the same so buying a GM or some import won't do you a bit of good if your run into the same issues. Let us know the outcome once you get it fixed.

It's true that this forum has more people with 5 or fewer posts that just come to complain...and alot of it is user error. You will find alot of complaints though with the panoramic roof and with tranny leaks (on the awd models). I have owned my 2k10 for about 5 months now and haven't had one single issue. FWIW I live in Phoenix, it don't get much hotter than here, and the ac in mine works very well. If everyone read forums and decided what vehicle to buy based on that no one would be buying new cars.

FWIW the GEM, or Generic Electronic Module, is the exact same thing as the SJB, or Smart Junction Box. Ford originally called it a GEM and then decided to confuse everyone and rename it to SJB. Do you by chance happen to know the code they pulled out of the SJB??

For the extended cranking issue my first thought is a fuel pump issue. There is a check valve in the fule pump that prevents fuel from backflowing into the tank when the vehicle is shut off so it starts faster. A fuel pressure test is in order to see what is happenign when the vehicle is shut off.

If you have trouble putting fuel in it is a direct result of the evap vent system. Either the evap vent solenoid is stuck closed or there is a restriction in the evap vent system.

First off, stop using the high octane fuel as it is doing absolutely nothing for your vehcle and is only draining your wallet. Now when you say takes a while to turn over do you mean that when you turn the key the engine doesn't crank or you turn the key, the engine cranks but takes a few seconds to start....

That's weird, I traded my 2008 Sport Trac in on my 2010 Edge. The Sport Trac was an "allright" vehicle but didn't really shine in any one particular task and with the poor fuel mileage, btw the computer overstates actual fuel mileage by about 2 mpg just as the Edge does, I decided to get rid of it. If you got the V8 then keep a close eye on the trans, ALOT of people have had shifting issues that Ford can't seem to nail down. 2010 is the last year for ST and with the 2nd generation of ST only being produced for 4 years some replacement parts are going to be hard to come by other than the dealer.If you haven't yet check out www.mysporttrac.com it's really the only ST site around, I go by the same name there.

It doesn't. It is impossible for a internally clogged heater core to restrict the flow of air coming out the vents. Now if the outside of the heater core were plugged that would be a different story but this bulletin, or whatever you want to call it, specifically adresses poor heat output...not poor airflow from the vents, Phoeber is confusing this with something else. FWIW my 2k10 ac system is the best ac system I have had in a vehicle in terms of cooling down the cabin since I got rid of my Lexus, that's saying alot especially since it's been 110 here on a regular basis lately and will be for the next 2 months. The only gripe I have is the placement of the vents, the one to the right of the steering wheel is basically useless for the driver since the steering wheel blocks the air coming from it. I find it odd that they placed it here because the main design purpose of the ac system is to keep the passengers upper body, especially the head, cool. If your head is hot or cold than your brain kind of blocks out what the rest of teh body is feeling...this is no B.S. I spent 2 weeks in an automotive ac system design class and was amazed to learn this

Only if you are actually towing something...obviously

You could not pay me to work at a dealership. I prefer to communicate with my customers and do not like the politics of the dealership environment.

Tha number is indeed for corrosion in the cooling sytem that leads to heater core restriction...I've had to repair a few of these.