Jump to content

2011 Ford Edge lane change signal works but turn signal will not stay on

Recommended Posts

I just got a new switch!..


I basically followed a "combined" procedure: Omar302's link, Youri631's modified procedure, and Northernone's core procedure.  It took me very long time to figure out (actually to learn) how to remove the column covers (thanks Omar302!).  Below I'm summarizing the combined procedure to save time for future references (...although I'd probably be the last one having this issue ...eight years later!) lol:


- From the straight wheels position, turn the steering wheel 90 degrees counterclockwise.  You will need the open space on the steering wheel to access the screws holding the switch.

- Using a 7mm socket, remove all three screws holding the bottom column cover.  Disengage the top column cover by gently pressing and priming up at the same time on both sides.  Drop the bottom cover (for easiness when you will need to grab and pull the switch unit later on without the risk of damaging the bottom cover or the switch unit male connector when sliding it out).  At this point, I also unplugged the connector feeding power to the column circuits, just in case when sliding the switch unit out or back in.

- Using a T10 screwdriver/bit, remove the two screws holding the circuit unit to its assembly on the steering column.

- Pressing on both tabs, slide the switch unit out (to the side).

- Place the switch unit on a clean surface.  Using the same T10 point, remove the two screws holding the circuit board.

- Using lint-free tissue, remove all contaminated grease (it was blackened!) from the circuit board, and also from both contacts, being very careful to avoid bending or damaging the contact fins (I didn't have lint-free tissue on hand; that's why I used toilet paper very carefully; but I do not recommend toilet paper because paper traces could get trapped in the contact fins). Note: I did not sand the contacts either; they're all golden after wiping them clean.

- Using dielectric grease, apply it liberally on both circuit board contact areas, and also on the contact fins.

- Reassemble in reverse order.  Tight enough, but do NOT over tight.

- ...Enjoy your new FREE switch unit in good health for many years to come! (hopefully ;)


Note (on the side): when I dropped down the bottom column cover, I noticed quite a bit of dust, dirt and grime on the far grids.  I took the opportunity to remove the bottom cover all the way out.  Using a flat-head screwdriver, I scrapped all the grime and then vacuum brushed all the cover clean before putting it back in for reassembling.


In summary, I did not have the smallest clue to suspect that such a safety issue (turn signal not staying on) has such a simple solution if it wouldn't have been for the amazing people here.


This forum rocks!



Edited by Edgingage
  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Glad you successfully got it done! (Nice how-to as well)


I was amazed at how simple a fix it was, any garage would have replaced the whole arm instead of a 5$ fix. Haven’t had any issues with mine since, almost 3 years later now. 

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for this post! Saved me a trip to the dealer.


Tools you'll need:

- T10 screwdriver to remove the turn signal stalk module.

- 7mm socket

- 6" extension

- 1/4" ratchet

- Trim tool (preferred) or wide flat head screwdriver

- Dialectic grease (you can use the 99c spark plug grease packets if you don't intend on ever buying any ever again)


Basically, remove the 3x 7mm screws on the steering wheel column.  You will have to pull the telescoping up/down lever to allow access to one of the screws.  


Turn the steering wheel 90 degrees, and there's a 2 hidden clips holding the top of the plastic surround to the bottom.  Use a trim tool or a wide screw driver to pop the two clips.  I did it with a trim tool and pulled down at the bottom of the turn and wiper stalks. That was enough force to free those front clips.


There are two more "clips" holding the top to the bottom surround.  Just pull up a small bit (30 degrees ish) on the front of the top surround, and slide it forward.  It's held in like a clamshell hinge.  So no force really needed.  Just pull and shake on the top surround until it comes loose.  



The surrounds are now loose and don't need to be fully removed from the car (that would make the job harder). 


There's now 2x screws holding the turn stalk module in.  Use your T10 screw driver on the front facing 2 screws.  Then to remove the module completely, slide/pull the module out towards the passenger door. Tada! Now you can do the rest on a workbench.


Flip the module over, and unscrew the two T10 screws.  The control board should pop off.  You'll now see the two metal prongs that slide and activate the electronics. They can come completely out since they float in there basically.  Clean off all the dielectric grease from the prongs and the electronics board.  


Reapply new dielectric grease to both the metal prongs and the board (and if you want I lightly bended the prongs away from the plastic it's on to get better contact with the electronics).  Don't worry if it's a tad messy, but don't go overboard.  ;)


Now reassemble the module and put it back the same way you took it out.  Test it before sealing up the steering column ;)


The module internals you'll be cleaning and regreasing: PI2iqvO.jpeg


The module the slides out after unscrewing the two bolts. Note the surround clip location (there's one on the other side too):  https://i.imgur.com/azoNDh0.jpeg



Edited by Scythe
  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now