"11 Edge AWD rear rotor replacement help request

[mpsrent]

2011 Ford Edge SEL AWD 3.5L

 

I apologize in advance if there is a quick "how to" guide to replace rear brake pads and rotors on a 2011 AWD however after much searching I'm unable to find anything.

 

As this is a unique caliper setup I'd appreciate any words of wisdom or links from anyone with experience. While the top caliper bolt is normal, the lower caliper bolt has some sort of a sensor attached to the end of the caliper pin bolt. I didn't want to attempt to remove the bolt until I was certain I was doing the correct thing. How do you remove this bolt?

 

Once you remove the caliper, is the 2011 setup with an internal brake shoe within the rotor or is this a screw in piston?

 

Any assistance or link to a manual would be appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance.

[mpsrent]

I've determined that the part I described as a sensor is actually a brake caliper vibration damper. The lower caliper bolt has a double stud, one to go into the caliper bracket and the second to go into the damper. Thus I believe it is safe to remove the lower bolt/damper as one unit. This leaves me with my question regarding the parking brake. Is it internal to the rotor or tied to the caliper piston?

 

Thanks

[despain85]

The parking break should be an integral part of the caliper. I don't think you will hurt anything if you remove it like you normally would.

[mpsrent]

From what I can observe without taking off the caliper, the pistons appear to be the screw style that you retract into the housing using the pin tool. As I don't have an urgent need to change my pads, once I locate my caliper piston tool I'll pull the caliper off for a look.

[LittleTimmy2]

I just changed my 2011 Edge rear pads and it took quite a while to figure out.

 

First take off the damper mounted on the lower caliper bolt. You do this by prying open the orange plastic cover hidden on the inboard side and using a Torx driver (#27 I think) to remove it. Then you can get a deep 1/2" socket on the bolt. You need a socket; an end wrench will not do the job. The upper bolt comes off easily. Hang the caliper out of the way and take off the pad holder with the two big bolts. This is much easier to clean up off the car. Wire brush the slider grooves, grease and snap in the new pad guides. Put the pad holder back on and slide in the new pads. Peel off the backing paper to expose the adhesive.

 

The caliper needs to be retracted by turning it clockwise as you push it in. I made a tool for the job, a 1" x 1/8" steel bar, 10" long - drilled and tapped two holes near one end, 1 3/8" apart and put in a couple of short 1/4"-20 bolts so they stick out about 1/8". These engage the recesses in the caliper. Turn it in all the way, leaving the caliper recesses lined up to fit with the little button on the pad. Slide the caliper over the pads and put back the 1/2" bolts. Reinstall the damper. Squeeze the parking brake arm a few times to take out the slack. You're done!

 

My left rear pads wore out in 80000 kms. All the others are OK, but I changed the right rear anyway. I used Ford pads from the dealer, reasonable price, about 80$.

[2011edgese]

Lol. I found the hard way on that dampner thing. I never seen that thing. I put open end wrench on it. Striped it. Put a flare wrench on it. .. stripped it more. I didn't know about flipping the dampner cover off and removing the torque screws. But the way I got it off was put a thi b g 15mm open end wrench on the inside of the bolt. And it loosened up. Then just unspin the dampner by hand. Lol. It worked.

[Tcomplex]

Little Timmy: Thanks for post. Can I retract calipers by pushing with only my hands while turning? DO I need to disconnect the hose to the caliper, or maybe just remove the master cylinder cap?

 

Thanks!

[2011edgese]

Little Timmy: Thanks for post. Can I retract calipers by pushing with only my hands while turning? DO I need to disconnect the hose to the caliper, or maybe just remove the master cylinder cap?

 

Thanks!

nope. I tried. impossible really. you need at least a needle nose plier,r the long one. And one of those adjustable big wrenches.you can get away with just the long needle nose pliers if you're lucky, just give it a shot.remember I believe if I recall correctly to rotate clockwise as you push.I'd like to open the caliper bleeder just to keep debris from flowing back and doing damage, some people don't but it does make a difference in pushing the caliper piston in.and if you do you open up the caliper deleter, you can most likely get away by just using a long needle nose pliers.

[CARR142]

 

Harbor Freight Disk Brake Tool Kit Item 69053

 

[Tcomplex]

The needle nose pliers worked with open bleeder. Not ideal, but good enough (at least for passenger side). Hope no air got in...somewhere else I read about an elaborate bleeding procedure. Biggest hassle with whole project was realizing the torx bolt on face of disk actually holds it onto axel; I thought it might have been for access to an adjuster or something. This bolt seems easy to strip and I almost did!