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Sync 2 to Sync 3 in 2011 with 3D printed brackets

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Hi everyone. New to the site and new to ford edge. I also have a 2013 F150 that I did a Sync 2 to Sync 3 update so once we got the Edge it was a no brainer. Unfortunately just like I did on the F150 I got the wrong screen so couldn't reuse the original brackets (didn't realize there was 2 different ones when I did my F150 over a year ago) and couldn't find a recessed screen this time. Instead of cutting up the brackets like I did on the F150 I decided to 3D print a set given that they were basically a 90 degree bend.


This involved some trial and error but in the end I'm pretty happy with them. The only change I would make would be to add some gussets for additional strength. Additionally since the screw caps dig into the face of whatever they screw into the bottom holes crack when removed. This is due to the limited amount of space available due to the bottom mounting screw for the screen. Easy enough to print replacements.


I printed them in PETG clear with 100% infill. Outside of the bottom screw, hole they are quite strong. I've attached some photos showing the brackets and them mounted. Getting all the proper settings for the Sync 3 module proved to be a challenge. Since most of the info online for settings in Forscan is for the F150 they didn't 100% apply in my case. Specifically I got errors with 911 assist and had 3 levels on the heated seats. Finally starting over I was able to get settings that seem to work correctly and not throw errors. The only issue I have now is my GPS signal has trouble locking on so I need to mount the GPS antenna in a different location.





Edited by Okie
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...



Thanks for posting your APIM settings. I have also have a 2011 Edge Ltd with the same features you have listed. Your settings should prove useful as I do my upgrade.


I just swapped my sync 2 unit last night for a sync 3 unit that came out of a 2018 Flex. I haven't made any changes to the APIM yet, and surprisingly most everything seems to work as is. I do have some extra HVAC settings for the backseat that don't apply to my vehicle. I noticed the back up camera seems grainy and I'm not sure why. Perhaps I need to make sure the connection didn't loosen up when I messed with the plugs swapping units.



Good job on the brackets. Fortunately I was able to reuse my sync2 brackets on the new screen which was the same recessed version as my Edge.

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Last night I used Forscan for the first time and was able to program my APIM with Okie's settings. My HVAC settings seem to match my vehicle now, no backseat settings and only two heat levels on the heated seats. So far so good.


Okie, what size wheels do you have? I have 18" wheels on my 2011 Edge Ltd.. That is the only thing I can think of that I might need to tweak yet if your values are set for 20".


I still have to look into why my backup camera is grainy. The only thing I can think of is a connector may have loosened up when I did the swap. I have to take the console/dash apart again anyway to do the USB hub swap, so I will check it then. I'm considering running a USB cable up through the dash to my Iottie phone holder. I'm not sure if I should run it out the front of the dash where the console side trim meets the dash or go all the way to the front of the dash and come out by the windshield.

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  • 10 months later...

First of all, thanks @Okie for the APIM data. I used it today and so far so good for my limited 2014 Ford Edge.


Also Okie inspired me to get creative and use the brackets that came with the standard mount sync 3 that I salvaged from a 2016 Escape with NAV ($147 shipped) to replace my sync 2 recessed screen. It took minimal modification to the in-dash plastic mounts.


Simply switch the left bracket with the right bracket that comes on the standard mount sync 3's and you can get the screen to fit perfectly into the dash.


Now align the new screen in the dash at the desired height (I used pics of the old unit to make it the same) and mark where to drill holes through the dash plastic for the bracket pegs to go through.


Set the screen aside and drill the holes you just marked.


Put the unit in the dash and mark the top right and top left mount bracket holes to drill small pilot holes for drywall screws or the likes, which is sufficient to hold the unit firmly in place along with the bracket pegs and dash trim that you will reinstall at the end.


Set the screen aside and drill the pilot holes you just marked.


Mount the unit with the screws or nuts and bolts of your choosing and you are done! Looks and works perfectly!




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