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Turbo replacement + catalytic converter? = :(:(


des_guy

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Hi,

 

New to posting but read often. I have had a few local dealers tell me different explanations/costs/problems so I am turning to the good 'ole internets for advice. This is where the experts really are anyway...

 

Have a 2013 Edge with 2.0 Ecoboost. Manufacture date 5/2012. This manufacture date is an apparent important tidbit.

 

Check engine light came on some months back despite care running fine. Got diagnosed that the wastegate is not allowing to reach full boost and has slowly gotten worse with time. Car drives fine under 25ish mph, but merging on the highway is starting to get tricky. Does not eat oil. Got a quote from a few local independent shops as well as Ford dealerships. Some of them ask me what manufacture date of my vehicle was while others do not. The reason being is I am told that Ford recently has decided to "upgrade" the turbo (probably due to premature failure) on this specific models manufacture date. Unfortunately, somewhere in the Ford parts catalog this new turbo also references the need for an "upgraded" or different catalytic converter. Sadly, no one can give me a definite answer until the car is on the hoist and taken apart.

 

So, some shops/dealers have given me a quote for ~$1700 for a turbo replacement, while others have given me a $3400 quote for turbo+catalytic converter replacement. 

 

It goes without saying that I want to pay less and do not want a nasty $1700+ surprise. My question(s) is this:

1. Has anyone had a similar experience? That is, recently had their turbo replaced on a '12/early '13 model and not needed the catalytic converter replaced also?

2. Any mechanics have any input on this?

 

Car is paid off, and ultimately will probably pay what is needed regardless. However, if I have to pay for the more expensive repair I'd like to be able to shop around and compare apples to apples.

 

Thank you.....

 

 

Edited by des_guy
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I have read on here that the WasteGate rod can fail on these turbos, sadly it is internal and not replaceable.  So it would cause it not to work properly.  I assume if it breaks that the wastegate would just open on its own and not build full boost. And the only fix is a replacement turbo.  Now if there are no other problems such as coolant leak or oil or something into the Cat and it has not become clogged with age then I would not think you need that.  But it is part of the downpipe and right there so it may just be suggested to replace it if you have a lot of miles, which since it is a 2013 I assume you do.  Personally since it is paid off and all and for its age I would source the turbo and downpipe myself, parts that is, and get a local garage to install it for you.  That way you control costs more and only pay for labor time.  Heck you could probably find a junk yard turbo with low miles cheap if you wanted to got that route or used parts.  LKQ can get great parts for great prices.   

 

Heck if you are handy and had the time and tools you could probably do it yourself.  ?

 

Edited by jamie1073
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  • 3 months later...

First thing to do is stay out of the dealerships. They charge double for what you can get repaired at a local shop. A new aftermarket turbo is only around $500. The waste gate rod is adjustable and can be lengthened to take up the slack from wear if it's not sealing. Get that checked out before replacing turbo.

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11 hours ago, JTW said:

First thing to do is stay out of the dealerships. They charge double for what you can get repaired at a local shop. A new aftermarket turbo is only around $500. The waste gate rod is adjustable and can be lengthened to take up the slack from wear if it's not sealing. Get that checked out before replacing turbo.

Any chance you could post a link to one of these direct fit aftermarket turbo's.

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Found this part for the turbo if yours is worn out. No need to replace the whole turbo.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/K03-Turbo-Turbine-Housing-for-Ford-Explorer-Edge-2-0L-SCTi-Ecoboost-53039700270/264482654969?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160323102634%26meid%3Dde46767adac14106856c015c37fcaa3d%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D264439802233%26itm%3D264482654969%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1

Copy and paste it to your browser.

Also check the part number for compatibility. I found out that there is two part numbers due to a difference in the depth of the end that the convertor bolts to.

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