JTW

It;s the hydraulic control unit on the ABS module. They have a tendency to have a internal valve stick open and allow fluid to bypass the calipers.

The hydraulic side of the ABS Module has an issue of a valve sticking open inside allowing fluid to bypass. You can replace the HCU and it will take care of the problem.

The problem is with the HCU, not the master cylinder. I found a company on Ebay that rebuilds the HCU. They will ship you a rebuilt unit with all the problems repaired and you send your bad one back.

If everything is fine with the oil your using, why screw with it? A good synthetic oil does not need any type of additive to make it better. Adding a additive may have negative affects on the oil chemistry and also void the oil companies warranty.

My trans fluid always comes out dark. These transmissions only have an internal screen for a filter. No way to change them unless you break into it.

I have over 160,000 miles on my 2013 2.0 and have only used Amsoil 10W-30 Signature Series oil. I change it every 10,000 miles. I also use the Amsoil oil filter and have done used oil analysis to confirm oil is good and nothing is wearing. So far I have had no oil related issues.

Why would backing be any different than driving forward?

That's pretty much your preference on what shocks and struts to use. I like Monroe but there are many to choose from.

It makes me wonder if they reset the parking brake. The caliper pistons have to be reset into the caliper or the new brakes will drag on the rotor.

Have you scanned the Body Control Module?

If you haven't already, go to a Ford Dealer site online and look up your vehicle and enter your Vin number to look up the correct module. Why are you suspecting the module as the problem? Is there a MIL?

All you have to do to remove it is to remove the cat and there is room to pull it out.

2013 Edge Limited 2.0 Ecoboost, 134000 miles. Has been losing freon for several months and bad smell from vents at start up. I've just been topping it up when it starts blowing warm. I decided to repair it since wife is on my back. No leaks out front so figure its evaporator. I ordered the whole evap case from Ford along with a new condenser and compressor from Rock Auto. UAC Brand. After gutting the car to install everything, I pulled a vacuum on system and it held overnight. As I started to charge the system, the low side pressure only stayed static matching the high side pressure. As the pressure rose, the compressor engaged and was running. The pressures did not change though. Low side pressure just slowly rose to around 90 psi and stayed there. No freon was pulled into the system by compressor. The only thing I can think of is that I got a bad compressor. Thoughts?

A low freon charge will also cause what you are describing. Mine did the same thing and found out that the evaporator was leaking.

This code is often set because the waste gate is worn out and not closing tight enough to build boost pressure in the system. The Turbo will have to be replaced to fix the problem. Get the job done by a local shop and buy a aftermarket replacement Turbo.

What's the most common failure with the Turbo? Is it seals or the waste gate linkage wearing out? I would think the linkage would have been updated by now.

The anti-drainback valve is the flap at the bottom or opening of the filter. Almost all filters have this valve. The valve at the top of the filter is the bypass valve which is there to open in case of a surge of pressure or a restricted filter.

The transmission is vented on top. Otherwise it could start to leak from seals due to pressure build up when oil heats and expands. My 2013 has a yellow plastic vent on top that can be pulled off and fluid added.

Found this part for the turbo if yours is worn out. No need to replace the whole turbo. https://www.ebay.com/itm/K03-Turbo-Turbine-Housing-for-Ford-Explorer-Edge-2-0L-SCTi-Ecoboost-53039700270/264482654969?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160323102634%26meid%3Dde46767adac14106856c015c37fcaa3d%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D264439802233%26itm%3D264482654969%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1 Copy and paste it to your browser. Also check the part number for compatibility. I found out that there is two part numbers due to a difference in the depth of the end that the convertor bolts to.

If you got to Ebay and type in "Ford Edge Turbo Charger" you will see many of them.

2013 2.0 with 100,000 miles on it. Use Amsoil 10W-30 and Amsoil filter. Change them when light on dash tells me to. Usually every 10,000 miles. Runs great.

Use a K&N filter if you want to add wear to your engine. Hold one up to a light and see all the holes in it. Protection before Performance?

First thing to do is stay out of the dealerships. They charge double for what you can get repaired at a local shop. A new aftermarket turbo is only around $500. The waste gate rod is adjustable and can be lengthened to take up the slack from wear if it's not sealing. Get that checked out before replacing turbo.