2010 Ford Edge coolant flush/change?

[Sjej]

I have yet to change the coolant on my car. Got it at 126k miles, now at 146k. I know I have time before i hit 30k miles, but i dont know when/if this coolant was changed. It smells like fish and it's blue, so definitely not factory, but just for my own reassurance i would like to do this. Also good to prevent premature water pump failure I heard

How would I go about doing this? Just drain and refill? Drain and run water through the system until just distilled water drains and nothing else? Is there a special fluid of some sort I need to flush the system? And last,what type of coolant should I use?

[DILLARD000]

Coolant capacity for this 2008 V6~3.5L~DOHC is ~12q84=12L14; maybe half comes out in a simple Radiator drain; believe your 2010 is similar.

Drain the Radiator, refill the system with DistilledWater, drive for 15~30min to flush the system,

keep draining+refilling with distilled water & flushing untill all the unknown "blue" stuff is gone.
Coolant should be Flushed+Renewed+Burped along with replacing the ThermoStat at 3Year\33kMile intervals.
Inspect other Coolant system components: Hoses\HeatValve\Fans+Controller\Belts... replace when required.
The 2008 OwnersGuide Specs  wss-m97b51-a1 for Coolant=AntiFreeze is Gold or Yellow color FordMotorCraft vc-7dil;
the Gold\Yellow formulas have additional CorrosionInhibitors+Lubricants that are beneficial & preferred.
Products below satisfy these Specs; carefully compare SafetyDataSheet Ingredients for any other Coolant.
These are HybridOrganicAcidTech\HOAT formulations, do not contain any 2EthylHexAcid\2EHA & may be mixed;
other Coolants containing 2EHA may damage seals in Ford V6~3.5L~DOHC engines & should NOT be used\mixed.
Only use these or equal Gold\Yellow Coolants; do NOT use\mix Blue\DarkGreen\LiteGreen\Orange\Pink\Red...

 

AntiFreeze~Coolant=-34~+265f=-37~+129cRated@15psi=103kpa\50%Forumla50%DistilledWaterReadyToUsePreMixture

OwnersManualSpec wss-m97b51–a1=g05\GldOrYelColor
          FordMotorCraftByValvoline vc-7dil
          Peak pkpb53\10x                                       
          ZerexByValvoline zxg05ru1

 

Your judgement call, but only CoolantAdditive I'd personally use is KSeal, 4oz after each drain+flush+refill as a leak preventative.
          KSeal# st5516

 

As part of my routine 6mth maintenance, I handpump about 1/2 gallon of old coolant from the reservoir & refill that with fresh 50+50%,

instead of doing a system drain+refill every 3yrs\33kMiles.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 11, 2022 by 1004ron

[Sjej]

17 hours ago, DILLARD000 said:

Coolant capacity for this 2008 V6~3.5L~DOHC is ~12q84=12L14; maybe half comes out in a simple Radiator drain; believe your 2010 is similar.

Drain the Radiator, refill the system with DistilledWater, drive for 15~30min to flush the system,

keep draining+refilling with distilled water & flushing untill all the unknown "blue" stuff is gone.
Coolant should be Flushed+Renewed+Burped along with replacing the ThermoStat at 3Year\33kMile intervals.
Inspect other Coolant system components: Hoses\HeatValve\Fans+Controller\Belts... replace when required.
The 2008 OwnersGuide Specs  wss-m97b51-a1 for Coolant=AntiFreeze is Gold or Yellow color FordMotorCraft vc-7dil;
the Gold\Yellow formulas have additional CorrosionInhibitors+Lubricants that are beneficial & preferred.
Products below satisfy these Specs; carefully compare SafetyDataSheet Ingredients for any other Coolant.
These are HybridOrganicAcidTech\HOAT formulations, do not contain any 2EthylHexAcid\2EHA & may be mixed;
other Coolants containing 2EHA may damage seals in Ford V6~3.5L~DOHC engines & should NOT be used\mixed.
Only use these or equal Gold\Yellow Coolants; do NOT use\mix Blue\DarkGreen\LiteGreen\Orange\Pink\Red...

 

 

Thank you, this is pretty helpful. And as far as extending life of the OEM water pump, any tips? I might just replace mine so I do not have to worry about it

[DILLARD000]

Depending on season\climate (freezing weather needs a heated garage to park vehicle),

at over 140kMiles, so not to "shock" the internal Pump seals,  I would

slowly replace old BlueCoolant by Draining+Flushing+Refilling with DistilledWater over several weeks,

then again slowly Drain+Flush+Refill the DistilledWater with new 50+50% Gold\Yellow Coolant,

mixing a little KSeal with the new Coolant as it's added.

Transverse V6~3.5L\3.7L~DOHC internal Coolant\WaterPump has basicly 4 modes of failure:

~ Pump FlangeCoolantSeal fails, Coolant leaks out SeepHole down front of Block behind Alternator.

~ Pump FlangeOilSeal fails, Oil leaks out SeepHole down front of Block behind Alternator.

~ Pump PulleySeal+Bearing fails, Coolant leaks into OilPan creating a "MilkShake"; engine is destroyed if run in this condition for any significant time\distance.

~ Pump OEPlasticImpeller slowly disintegrates, flow & CoolingCapacity slowly decline, leading to overheating.

In any of these cases; Pump must be replaced; new Timing components & 120% Melling OilPump upgrade recommended while there.

This work requires removing TimingCover+Components; can be done with engine in vehicle, easier if engine is removed.

If removing engine & vehicle is AWD, consider replacing PowerTransferUnit\PTU also; likely has never had Oil changed, unless you did that.

Engine with TimingCover removed shown below, before removing original factory TimingParts+WaterPump+OilPump;

CoolantPump is behind center ChainPulley; OilPump is behind lower CrankShaft ChainPulley.

OE WaterPump+PlasticImpeller, compared to AfterMarket WaterPump+MetalImpeller, also shown below.

Engine with TimingCover+TimingParts+WaterPump+OilPump removed, bottom pic below.

 

 

 

 

Edited November 13, 2022 by DILLARD000

[Sjej]

15 hours ago, DILLARD000 said:

Depending on season\climate (freezing weather needs a heated garage to park vehicle),

at over 140kMiles, so not to "shock" the internal Pump seals,  I would

slowly replace old BlueCoolant by Draining+Flushing+Refilling with DistilledWater over several weeks,

then again slowly Drain+Flush+Refill the DistilledWater with new 50+50% Gold\Yellow Coolant,

mixing a little KSeal with the new Coolant as it's added.

Transverse V6~3.5L\3.7L~DOHC internal Coolant\WaterPump has basicly 4 modes of failure:

~ Pump FlangeCoolantSeal fails, Coolant leaks out SeepHole down front of Block behind Alternator.

~ Pump FlangeOilSeal fails, Oil leaks out SeepHole down front of Block behind Alternator.

~ Pump PulleySeal+Bearing fails, Coolant leaks into OilPan creating a "MilkShake"; engine is destroyed if run in this condition for any significant time\distance.

~ Pump OEPlasticImpeller slowly disintegrates, flow & CoolingCapacity slowly decline, leading to overheating.

In any of these cases; Pump must be replaced; new Timing components & 120% Melling OilPump upgrade recommended while there.

This work requires removing TimingCover+Components; can be done with engine in vehicle, easier if engine is removed.

If removing engine & vehicle is AWD, consider replacing PowerTransferUnit\PTU also; likely has never had Oil changed, unless you did that.

Engine with TimingCover removed shown below, before removing original factory TimingParts+WaterPump+OilPump;

CoolantPump is behind center ChainPulley; OilPump is behind lower CrankShaft ChainPulley.

OE WaterPump+PlasticImpeller, compared to AfterMarket WaterPump+MetalImpeller, also shown below.

Engine with TimingCover+TimingParts+WaterPump+OilPump removed, bottom pic below.

That is also very helpful. One last question, is the engine interference or not? I have no problem doing this job aside from timing. If I get timing off I want to be sure I can fix it and not blow my engine up.

[DILLARD000]

11 hours ago, Sjej said:

...engine interference or not?...

Various discussions & bits of info out there on this, but seems to be no definitive answer.

Assuming Ford V6~3.5L~DOHC is an interference engine, I used these parts for the Timing+Pump job:

~ Coolant\Water Pump, USMW# us6023

~ Oil Pump, Melling# 10390hv

~ VariableValveTimingSolenoids\VVTS 2ea, Dorman# 917-201

~ Timing Kit, Cloyes# 9-4226s

~ Crank TTY Bolt, Ford# f5rz-6a340-b

~ Cam TTY Bolt 2ea, Cloyes# vcb114

~ Cam Holding Jigs, ATP# ap-04-2619

Cloyes instructional videos note Holding Jigs, pic below, are NOT required,

but I felt need for them to insure CamShafts did NOT move during this work over several days.

I replaced all Timing components excepting the 2 larger CamGears+Bolts; those were left in place.

List above is NOT all inclusive of the various other items+supplies replaced or used.

Edited November 14, 2022 by DILLARD000

[Sjej]

On 11/14/2022 at 6:02 AM, DILLARD000 said:

Cloyes instructional videos note Holding Jigs, pic below, are NOT required,

but I felt need for them to insure CamShafts did NOT move during this work over several days.

I replaced all Timing components excepting the 2 larger CamGears+Bolts; those were left in place.

List above is NOT all inclusive of the various other items+supplies replaced or used.

 

 

Thank you!!! I'm assuming I need 2 of those tools. Makes me feel a lot better about doing the job, thank you.

Edited November 15, 2022 by 1004ron
No need to quote everything

[DILLARD000]

15 hours ago, Sjej said:

 

Thank you!!! I'm assuming I need 2 of those tools. Makes me feel a lot better about doing the job, thank you.

No, the CamHoldingJig kit comes with 2 jigs, one for each of the DualOverHeadCams, left & right, so only one jig kit needed.

Good luck & keep us updated on your progress & any questions as you go.

Edited November 15, 2022 by DILLARD000

[Sjej]

9 hours ago, DILLARD000 said:

No, the CamHoldingJig kit comes with 2 jigs, one for each of the DualOverHeadCams, left & right, so only one jig kit needed.

Good luck & keep us updated on your progress & any questions as you go.

Got it. Thank you. This job is kind of a while away but this is all very helpful. Will be sure to update when doing the job.

[sid660raptor]

On 11/15/2022 at 8:11 PM, Sjej said:

Got it. Thank you. This job is kind of a while away but this is all very helpful. Will be sure to update when doing the job.

I need that tool are you will to loan it 2me if your near west Michigan??? I'll pay to use it

Edited April 7, 2023 by sid660raptor
Oops didn't mean to report my own post

[Sjej]

On 4/7/2023 at 12:26 PM, sid660raptor said:

I need that tool are you will to loan it 2me if your near west Michigan??? I'll pay to use it

Unfortunately I do not have it yet & I do not live in Michigan