DILLARD000

Have the OxSensors ever been renewed; should be changed every 100kMiles\12years as the chemical coating wears out? The KnockSensor (glorified 2wire microphone) issue could be a loose connector or broken\worn\mousechewed cable; that sensor is bolted to the top of the engine block in the "V" under the IntakeManifold; inspect that Cable+HarnessConnector.

MIles on your transmission? Is the ATF level where it should be, check with Transmission warmed up & engine idling is park on level ground? Has the Trans ATF ever been drained & renewed; recommend every 33kMiles\4years? Can try an additive like LucasTransmissionFix or drain+refill with a premium MerconV compatible ATF like AmsOil#HighTempATF.

Could try an oil additive (Lucas "engine honey"), or a premium brand of oil like AmsOil (extra additives for minimizing wear.). Have a personal habit of spraying a little Carb+ThrottleCleaner down the Oil DipTube & Oil Fill, then run engine idling for 5~10 minutes, then change Oil+Filter; believe this helps clear out sludge+dirt deposits throughout the engine. Of course do make sure your oil level is in the upper range on the DipStick.. Also put an eyeball on your 2 belts; a belt or belt tensioner can tick loudly if they're getting worn.

White smoke from exhaust can be an indication of a leaking HeadGasket or cracked Head, allowing water\coolant into one or more cylinders when engin is cold, then closing up as engin warms up. In the V6~3.5L~DOHC Tranverse Engin, with failure of the pumps ShaftBearing &\Or the DoubleFlangeSeal in that damned InternalChainDriven WaterPump (pic below), coolant is dumped into the OIlPan directly below the Pump, making the infamous Oil+Coolant "MilkShake"; serious\catastrophic engine damage can occur, not only overheating the engine & possibly cracking the heads, but likely also damages the various engine bearings (grinding sound?) that should never be exposed to water\coolant. Does sound like a mechanic worked you over.

Not correct for the transverse V6~3.5L\3.7L~DOHC Engin & 6f50 Tran & connected AllWheelDrive PTU. Transmission has its own fully enclosed WALL\CASE; PTU has its own fully enclosed CASE. See pics below. Difference is where the ATF Seal for the intermediate shaft is installed; for AllWheelDrive With PTU, the IntermediateShaftSeal is installed on the right side of the PTU, along with a concentric PTU Seal for GearOil; for FrontWheelDrive WOut PTU, the IntermediateShaftSeal is installed on the right side of the TransmissionCase, since theres no PTU. It is possible to install 2 IntermediateShaftSeals, one on the right side of Trans, another on the right side of PTU; likely a good mod\improvement; ATF commonly leaks at these CVAxle ShaftSeals & drips+smokes+stinks on the exhaust pipe below. The IntermediateShaft extends completely thru the PTU into the right side of Trans; factory installs just one ATF seal on the right side of PTU, so ATF fills shaftway thru the PTU, but does not mix with PTU GearOil. MerconV ATF is in the Trans; 75w140 GearOil is in the PTU; very much different fluids & not intended to mix\interchange.

Need to add 2009 MKX FWD\AWD to your avatar & signaure; makes questions easier to ask & answer. Consider twice draining & refilling with MerconV; see if that clears up the vibes. Alternative is to drain ~1qt replace wih LucasTransmissionFix = extra thick ATF. Is your 2009 MKX FrontWheelDrive or AllWheelDrive? If AWD, have you ever drained\suctioned & renewed the 75w140 GearOil in the PTU. PTU is a NotoriousFailureItem that can be a source of vibes, especially if not serviced at least every 33kMiles\4yrs; preference here is every 8kMiles\1yr with a DIY drain & fill+vent can installed.

Make sure you've got a PDF reader (Adobe or equal) installed.

1st, make sure oil level is where it should be. 2nd, what weight Oil now? When was last Oil+Filter change? Every 4kMiles\6mths. 3rd, when engine has sat for 24hr+, try a PreStart ColdCrank: Key off, hold GasPedal to floor, Key crank 5~10sec, Key off, release GasPedal, start normally This pre-circulates oil thru engine before starting. 4th, consider next heavier weight oil, say from 0w20 to 0w30, or 5w30 to 5w40. Can help quiet older engines. NameBrand FullSyn recommended. 5th, consider an Oil Additive\Treatment; can't recommend a brand, but I've used Lucas as a substitute for 1/2qt; seems little more than heavier oil, but likely helps a bit. 6th, not a kosher SAE recommendation, but I've gotten in the practice of spraying a little CarbCleaner down the OilDipTube & OilFill then idling the engine for 5~10min before changing the Oil+Filter; believe this helps to clear out any oil sludge buildup.

Been there, done that, don't realy want to do it again. WaterPump inner gasket failed (there are two = inner + outer); blew all coolant out thru weephole on front side of block behind alternator. Was very lucky that pumps outer gasket or bearing did not fail; either would have put coolant into oil pan, made a "milkshake" & ruined the engin. Pulled Engin+Trans+PTU assembly from top. New items installed included: * WaterPump with MetalImpeller * Melling HiVol OilPump * TimingGuides+Tensioners+Chains+Sprockets+VVTSolenoids+... * New PTU, modifed with bottom Fumoto DrainValve & Hoses run from TopVentBarb & SideFillBarb to Vent+FillCan underhood between Battery+FuseBox * New Radiator & StainlessFlexHoses * New RadiatorFanControlModule\FCM * New Half+FullSpeed DualTempSwitch wired in parallel as backup if notorious FCM fails again. * ... Before taking any Timing components out, put these jigs/clamps in place on both CamShafts: Timng CamShaft Jigs\Clamps specificly for2007~2010 V6~3.5L~DOHC Engin ATPEAM# AP-04-2619 About $25 on "the river or the bay".

75w140 in PTU 75w90 in DIF Personal pref is AmsOil. Best do this every 33kMiles 4yrs or less.

Not easy or inexpensive. Need to remove timing cover, chains, guides just to get to the pump. Very difficult access with engine in vehicle.

Could be the PTU failing, definitely a NotoriousFailureItem. Miles on the vehicle? How long since PTU GearOil was renewed? Personal preference is at least every 16kMiles\2Yrs with 20oz of 75w140.FullSyn AmsOil or RedLine.

Welcome to the Herd! Lots of friendly knowledgable folk in these forums. Also have here a 2008 EdgeAWD. PTU is definitely a NotoriousFailureItem\NFI; recommend fresh 20oz of GearOil at least every 16kMiles\2Yrs, 75w140.FullSyn, AmsOil or RedLine. For easy PTU servicing, consider a Drilled+Tapped Drain with Fumoto Valve, and replacing TopVent with ExtensionHose to a Vent+FillCan under hood. And another NFI, the InternalChainDriven WaterPump; recommend renewing Coolant every 33kMiles\4Yrs, yellow Peak#pkpb53\10x or Zerex#zxg05ru1. Watch for Pump failure with Coolant leak from weephole on front of Engin behind Alternator, or worse "ChocolateMilkShake" on OilDipStick that destroys Engin. Yet another NFI, the Radiator FanControlModule\FCM (upper left of fan cowling); fails & causes Engin overheat &\or AC to stop cooling while idling or in Stop+Go traffic; replace with FordMotorCraft only; aftermarket versions are commonly not fully compatible with PCM signal & NegativeSidePulseWidthModulated circuitry.

2008 Edge or MKX ? \ V6~3.5L~DOHC Engin ? \ FWD or AWD ? \ With TowPack or WOut TowPack ? Note these details in your profile & signature to make asking+answering questions easier; click on your LogOn at topright then AccountSettings. As a "new" owner, best to become aware of several NotoriousFailureItems: * InternalChainDriven WaterPump: watch for Coolant from weephole on Engin front behind Alternator or worse "ChocolateMilkShake" on the Engin OilDipStick. * PowerTransferUnit\PTU on AWD Models: watch for GearOil boiling out of top vent & dripping on to exhaust, grinding sound; both indications of pending failure. * Radiator FanControlModule: failure causes Fans to stop working when AC is turned on & Engin overheat while idling or in Stop+GoTraffic. Consider draining & renewing Transmission ATF MerconV; personal preference is every 33kMiles\4Yrs, RedlIne#HighTemp or AmsOil#ssmvatf. Consider renewing all 4 OxygenSensors; personal preference is every 100kMiles\12yrs along with new SparkPlugs; the Bosch 15719 OxSensor with 24i00 0m610 Long Cable+Plug is good to replace any Ford 4WireNarrowBand Sensor; their chemical coating slowly wears out & then the Fuel/Air mix gets biased rich, causing MPGs to decrease & exhaust CatalyticConvertors to run excessivley hot, an expensive repair if let go too long. Recommend starting TroubleShoot by reading & writing down all active TroubleCodes via OnBoardDiagnostic2\OBD2 Port under the Dash. Have here the items below, allowing access to TroubleCodes, Signals & Configurations: OBDLink#MX+ Module with WirelessBT to AndroidPhon with OBDLinkApp + ForScanLite + TorquePro * Reads+Resets+Graphs both StandardSAE & ProprietaryOEM Data * DashBoardMode for viewing Temps & Signals while Driving * Used for Routine Maintenance & DailyMonitoring OBDLink#EX Module with CabledUSB to WindowsPC with OBDLinkWiz + ForScanLLE * Reads+Resets+Graphs+Configures both StandardSAE & ProprietaryOEM Data * Faster & easier than ToggleSwitch ELM327 ComsModules * Used for InDepth Maintenance & Configurations Above ODB2 items are personal preference; there are many options which vary widely in cost & function. An Ohm+Volt+Amp\MultiMeter is also handy+essential; using the same digital Fluke meter 30years+ now.

Have here another 2008 Edge V6~3.5L~DOHC Engin with AWD = PowerTransferUnit & RearDifferentialUnit\RDU, now at ~160kMiles = 256000km. Beware your "new" mechanic is also smelling an easy\unneeded upsale. A completely honest mechanic is a very rare thing; they run a business to make money, so a "grain of salt". You do NOT need SparkPlugs until around 145000km~160000km = 90kMiles~100kMiles. When you do renew the Plugs, also renew the four OxygenSensors (2 upstream + 2 downstream); they gradually wear out, loose their chemical sensor coating and slowly bias Fuel/Air mixture to the rich end of the scale, causing MPGs to decrease & exhaust to run rich & in turn the CatalyticConvertors to run hot, which if let go too long will be a much more expensive repair. Considering your low usage\miles; recommend running vehicle at least once a week, a 20~30minute drive up to full temperature up to highway speeds, to keep internals lubricated, fuel+exhaust system clear, & brakes+suspension working. My personal+recommended maintenance routine includes these items: * Bottle of FuelSystemCleaner & fillup with PremiumHighOctaneFuel every 4kMiles\6Mths * Renew engin Oil+Filter every 4kMiles\6mths, 0w20.FullSyn for cold weather, 0w30.FullSyn for moderate weather, 5w40.FullSyn for hot weather, this is critical * Suction Fluid from SteeringReservoir & renew with fresh MerconV every 4kMiles\6mths * Suction Fluid From BrakeReservoir & renew with fresh DOT4 every 4kMiles\6Mths * Inspect AirFilter, back blow with compressed air, renew if needed, every 4kMiles\6Mths Considering your low usage\mileage & gentle driving conditions; above items can be done once a year. * Inspect Radiator CoolingFans for proper operation every 4kMiles\6mths; FanControlModule (on FanCowling upper left) is a NotoriousFailureItem; this is critical. * Renew Coolant + ThermoStat + PressureCap every 33kMiles\4Yrs; InternalChainDriven WaterPump is an expensive NotoriousFailureItem, this is critical * Transmission Fluid MerconV change every 33kMiles\4Yrs, this is critical * PowerTranferUnit\PTU 75w140.FullSyn GearOil change every 33kMiles\4Yrs; a NotoriousFailureItem, this is critical * RearDifferentialUnit\RDU 75w90.FullSyn GearOil change every 33kMiles\4yrs * Tires renew as needed every 33kMiles\4Yrs * Battery+Brakes renew every 50kMiles\6Yrs * SparkPlugs(6) & OxygenSensors(4) & PCVValve & Belts(2) & all Hoses+Clamps, renew every 100kMiles\12yrs Hopefully this helps.

The Radiator FanControlModule\FCM, mounted on the upper left corner of the FanCowling, is a common NotoriousFailureItem\NFI; your TowPack should have the DualOutput FCM, instead of the SingleOutput FCM version on NoTowPack V6~3.5L~DOHC Engines. Best to avoid non~FordMotorCraft replacements for the FCM; they're definitely cheaper than OEM but most are not fully compatible with the Ford PCM & PulseWidthModulated GroundLeg circuitry.

Welcome to the Herd! Lots of friendly knowledgable folk in these forums. Be aware: * The InternalChainDriven WaterPump in these TransverseMounted V6~3.5L~DOHC Engines are a NotoriousFailureItem\NFI; be sure to keep the CoolantSystem serviced every 33kMiles\4Yrs: New ThermoStat, New ReservoirPressureCap, New Coolant, and watch for coolant leaks from the weephole on front side of the engine behind alternator, or worse "ChocolateShake" colored oil on the DipStick. * If you've got AllWheelDrive\AWD, be aware of the PowerTransferUnit\PTU and RearDifferentialUnit\RDU; again NotoriousFailureItems; both need GearOil renewed every 33kMiles\4Yrs, despite Ford claiming they have "LifeTimeFluid" & are not servicable. * Another NFI, the Radiator FanControlModule, mounted on the upper left corner of the FanCowling; tends to fail & cause AC problem & Engine overheat while idling or in stop+go traffic.

Thanks for that list of Ford Flex DoubleRoller Timing Parts; can anyone confirm what Flex Year+Model+Engin this is for? To convince myself this is a real option, will need to study+compare+confirm this list of DoubleRoller Parts to the SingleRoller Parts that I used last year rebuilding+renewing the TimingSystem+WaterPump+OilPump+... in my 2008 Ford EdgeAWD V6~3.5L~DOHC. Do wish I would have had this list+info to study & consider prior to that rebuild. By the way, that 2008 engine is running great, now almost a year & several thousand miles after rebuild. No regrets about taking the time+effort to do that rebuild, certainly compared to the crazy expensive alternative of buying a car to replace it.

PS: As OxSensors age & wear out, again they inherently enrich the Fuel/Air mix, causing lower MPGs; this overly rich mixture also results in overly rich exhaust, causing CatCons to run hotter & wear out sooner, an expensive & avoidable repair. A Bosch 15719 with 24i00 0m610 Long Cable+Plug is good to replace any Ford 4WireNarrowBand Sensor.

* OxSensors can't really be cleaned, their chemical\reactive coating gradually wears off & slowly will enrich fuel\air mix & cause lower MPGs; defintely replace if >100kMiles\12yo. An OBD2 Scanner can monitor OxSensor signals: once engine+exhaust are at full operating temp, both UpStream OxSensors should alternate 0.1v~0.9v, both DnStream should be relatively steady >0.6v. * MAFSensor definitely can be cleaned; do NOT use Carb\ThrottleCleaner or BrakeCleaner, much to harsh; use MAFCleaner\ElectricalCleaner\RubbingAlcohol & QTips. * Best to ignore & not use the "Instantaneous MPG" setting in the InstrumentCluster, it inherently jumps around; best to use the "Averaged MPG" setting.

Yep, cleaning the Intake, Throttle, MAF can never hurt. How old are Plugs and OxSensors, should be renewed every 100kMiles or 12yrs. Oh, you did note above you'd changed the plugs ~15kMiles ago; may want to pull those & inspect anyway for color & proper gap. OxSensors will bias the Air/Fuel mix as they age to the rich end of the curve gradually until they finally cause a TroubleCode,

@dabangsta Ok, guess I'll need to start driving like that. So your ThrottleBody also only has 2 positions, fully closed or fully opened?

Have here a 2008 EdgeAWD V6~3.5L~DOHC; you should be getting ~17mpg local & ~21mpg highway; so something is not proper. With NonTowPack DualRadiatorFans+FanControlModule & single Fuse; believe actual Fans+Motors are the same as the TowPack, but TowPack has a dual output FanControlModule\FCM & dual Fuses. ThrottleBody does have an IdleAdjustment screw; note that if its changed too much, a TroubleCode will be generated, so make note of its original\factory position. Haven't found a Forscan method of changing the idle, but that may be possible. Glad to hear you've already PM'd that notorious InternalChainDriven WaterPump; mine failed at about 150kMiles to the external outlet behind the Alternator last year; had whole Engin+Trans assembly out of vehicle to change WaterPump, along with new TimingSet & upgrade to HiVolOilPump. Also added traditional MultiStageTempSwitch controls for Fans, wired parallel to FCM, maintains Fan ops & 192~198f Engin cooling if notorious FCM ever fails again. If yours is AWD, be sure to service the PTU & RDU with some fresh quality GearOil.

Sounds like good info...link to that spreadsheet & part numbers?

Good info\report. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the DoubleRoller TimingChains+Guides+Tensioners+Gears+WaterPump+OilPump are all for the later\newer 3.7L BoredOut Engin & do not fit the earlier\older 3.5L Engin?