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Retro Solutions HID kits.


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I have a RS kit

 

-I went with 35w (I felt no need for higher light output given I was already dramatically improving over the lame incandescence bulbs)

-5000w bulb (very close approximation to "factory" installed bulbs on the roads we all like & which made these popular and just that perfect nice tint of blue and not overboard toward gawdy purple - my opinion of the best choice of color+function+look)

-not slim ballasts (it was not offered at the time and we have plenty of room to mount anyway so room is not an issue - but at $6 more, not a real issue).

 

I would buy the same setup again. I think your biggest decision, which is one of preference, is bulb watt/color. at $6 total diff it seems for 55w or slim, who cares really.. the bulb color is what you WILL notice the most. and of course, digital is the ONLY kit to go with.

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Thanks for the info Lex, that helps narrow it down. I am still a little confused looking at RS website as they have 9145, H1, H11, H3 and so on. What is the difference between these kits? I do want to stay away from a bluish tint and just have clean white color.....my wife wants purple and I said hell no. I am interested in 5000K as this seems to be in the color spectrum that I am looking for.

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Hey Lex, did you use a relay for the install. I hear that this enables the ballasts to draw power directly from the battery rather than go through the electrical system. Is this even needed ? Also, does this affect the "auto on" feature of the headlights ? I heard you need another adapter to retain this feature. Cripes, the further I research, the more questions I have.

Edited by BlazedUp
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hold the phone.. were you not the one in the original RS thread that said somethign to the effect of "these kits are illegal" and then went on to talk about manslaughtr if you kill someone while using these HID kits :o - so, your coming over to the dark side now :P

 

ha ha anyway.. you need H11, that is the low beam bulb size for the Edge.

 

5000k is about as close to clean bright white light and not verge on blue. BUT, understand, clean pure bright white light IS slightly bluish. nothing you can do about that. We are so use to incandescent yellow bulbs in homes, cars, lights, etc - this is what you are use to so anything other than that can seem to have that tint. that being said, the higher watt you go, the more blue they come. See some of the HID charts on like 12000k and it is literally purple. so, I am pretty sure, what you seek is 5000k. clean, perfect.

 

I did not use the relay kits and do not have relay related issue like flicker. early on, when several of us did this, there seemed to be some that had issues and some night. you can read all about that elsewhere here as to why with the PMU blah blah. in my case, no issue so I did not bother with the relays. if it were me, I would pass on them and only get them if you have issues - like flickering.

 

I have never read about an adaptor to keep the "auto on" feature. I have 1 odd issue here and there with the auto on, but I have no idea if it is HID related nor can I reliably reproduce it. That is, sometimes when I get in and it is dark out, when I put the key to position 1, the lights correctly come on... but when I turn over the car, they shut off, as they do as the car turns over, but they do not come on so I have to manually flip the dial to get the lights on. sometimes this happens, sometimes not. I have not had any issues with the lights coming on when it senses it is dark enough while driving. they come on auto for me. just that 1 odd issue.. HID issue? not sure.

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Thanks Lex. Yeah that was me giving a salesman a hard time. No real merit to what I was saying. Just like to :stirpot: I think I will go with the H11 slim kit in the 5000k from Retro Solutions. Thanks for all of your help Lex, it really helped me make up my damn mind. Besides, you are probably the only one's information on here that I believe to be true and accurate.

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There is no advantage to the slim over regular except the size. The regular size have been on the market 2 years 9 month longer than the slim, that is about the only other difference we can even think of.

With the Edge though, we do recommend using a wiring harness as the power for the headlamp circuit is pulsed.

For output color, the 6000k are like a cool white, with some time they will gain a bit more blue color to have that slight blue tint. For visibility the 4300k are best, but many people don't exactly care for the slight yellow hue they do have.

We suggest the following for tried and true operation, longevity, and fitment for the Edge:

 

Lex, I just received this e-mail from Retro Solutions after posting my reply. WHat does it mean when a circuit is "pulsed" I guess I do not need the harness since you have no issues. Thanks again.

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thanks... yeah, I was just giving you some minor ribbing :)

 

I think, reading what you want, you will be happy with (1) the RS digital kits and (2) 5000k. Installation is a cake walk and if you do not have flicker issues, no relays needed and that saves on installation hassle.

 

Todd at RS is super helpful, can always validate the info with him.

 

did you decide to go 35 or 55w?

 

post up when install is done, it is a great mod to do. I would never not have any HID in any car given how cheap and easy they are to install and the amazing results. Heck, if I could 'easily' put them in my 35 year old FJ40, I would. But, they are pre H11 bulbs and it is a who deal to convert a 35 year old setup.

 

once you do this, you will hate yellowish bulbs, so get ready to do the LED bulbs in the car and license plate next.

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There is no advantage to the slim over regular except the size. The regular size have been on the market 2 years 9 month longer than the slim, that is about the only other difference we can even think of.

With the Edge though, we do recommend using a wiring harness as the power for the headlamp circuit is pulsed.

For output color, the 6000k are like a cool white, with some time they will gain a bit more blue color to have that slight blue tint. For visibility the 4300k are best, but many people don't exactly care for the slight yellow hue they do have.

We suggest the following for tried and true operation, longevity, and fitment for the Edge:

 

Lex, I just received this e-mail from Retro Solutions after posting my reply. WHat does it mean when a circuit is "pulsed" I guess I do not need the harness since you have no issues. Thanks again.

 

as for the "pulsed" circuit. somewhere on these boards, I am pretty sure this was all talked about in crazy depth IIRC. Not by me, but someone else here had some pretty complete data and the whole puled explanation - Maybe it was "jpeckinp" and/or "jpark". but, in basic jargon, again IIRC, the Smart Junction Box in the Edge uses a pulsed system to send the signal and so for people that had flicker issues or only 1 light coming on or come on then go off, the relay smoothes that out so no pulse no flicker. That is kind of the basics of it IIRC. not all cars use that system, the Edge does.

 

what is interesting, and I do not think anyone could ever really explain as to why, not even Todd, some Edges have flicker issues and some not. The pulsed system in the Edge is a fact and well proven. But, for whatever reason, some people got flicker issues and then got relays and all was well. Some, like me, do not have the issue. Some, never knew if they had the issue as they started right off with the relays. So, that is why, since no one can be definitive - I think you can even read some posts where RS says you do not "need" the relays technically, but they have helped with peoples issues so likely he just recommends them right off the bat - I knew I could quickly go back to the stock light system, still leave the HID ballast and wiring in the engine bay and order the relays IF I had to if I had issue. I did not, so never had to. So, it was kind of money saved up front I would have spent if I had issue.

 

UPDATE: not that I would read these threads, but here is some real old and early threads on HID on some of these topics IF you care and they talk about the electrical explanations if you really want to know. they could be too much info and lead to analysis paralysis.. I still stand by recommendations as I know they worked for me - and others here - and in the end, worse case scenario, you have to buy the relay kit IF you have issues (flicker, only 1 light comes on, they come on and go off, etc). maybe, maybe not,

 

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?showtopic=1553

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?showtopic=1914

 

okay.. I am done here :)

Edited by Lex Talionis
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