cal3thousand

Those are what they call halos and I will be changing them out to a brighter LED style very soon.

 

Thanks

What size halos are those? I assume you went through the trouble of dismantling the headlights and re gluing?

Seems like you need a Wagon. I would go with the Subaru Legacy Wagon in your case.

Just re-read your last sentence. I now change my recommendation to BMW. 5 Series Wagon.

Yes, we do it. It makes it dark later into the morning and light a smidge longer at night. For about a week. Then it doesn't matter again. It is just dark. alll the time. or it is snowing. Yes. Already hating on winter. When is my trip to Hawaii?

 

But seriously - does DST matter any where? NO! It is just stupid.

Please take this statement back.

DST is one of the most beautiful ideas ever. If you want to remove DST, go ahead and make ALL times DST times.

In Southern California, it makes a HUGE difference. Right now, sunset is 5:30 PM. I work inside all day, so I don't get my Vitamin D. In Summer with DST, it gets dark at around 8:00 PM. That's enough time to get out of work and enjoy some of the Sun.

And let's not even start with the energy savings...

I had to update manually as well.

I am assuming that the DST date that it uses to calculate the change over date is wrong. We've recently (in the last 5 years or so) changed the DST effective dates to include more daylight savings. Maybe the old dates are being used.

What's the red glow in your projector?

It looks very cool. I'd like to pinch that idea.

As a new owner who is just getting used to the existing GUI, this looks like a cleaner design, and the response speed improvement will be welcomed. One gripe... It looks like they're taking away the outside temperature readout. I'm not seeing it on any of the screen shots. IMO, it would me greatly missed.

It's available on the little screen to the right of the speedo.

I'm glad they removed it. I dislike seeing the redundancy

I don't necessarily agree with the $500 but I would make the agreement to take the KBB value lost during that time period.

So, take the KBB value of your car now and when you trade in. Agree to pay them, at most, the difference (since that was your portion of depreciation).

 

Now why in the world would he stop shipping to Canada?

 

Probably risk (credit card fraud)

I'm curious to know what the professional detailers feel about PPF (paint protection film) like "Clear-Bra" and similar products. I have a Platinum White Edge and am concerned about any section of my car covered by it yellowing (over time) and how obvious it will become on the parts of the car that does not have the PPF on it. I think PPF makes good sense because it protects my car's finish, but is it worth the cost (I plan to have it professionally applied as opposed to DIY)? I have estimates to have most of my car protected for between $3700-$4200 (covers complete front bumper, FULL hood, both outside mirris, all FOUR doors, complete rear bumper, headlights and fenders).

 

Should I still need to be as meticulous with washing the car as I would without the PPF? Would the products you recommend for a car with PPF be any different?

 

I apologize if I am posting this in the wrong section, but I do want to get the opinions from the pros.

 

Thanks guys, I am amazed at the level of knowledge and patience you share on this forum.

~Sac AZN

$3700 - $4200 ? Wow that's a lot of money.

I would (personally) pocket that cash. If you end up with any paint issues, that money will go a long way in repainting a vehicle. And if you have comprehensive insurance, it will cost even less out of pocket if and when something arises.

 

End the every day ride...currently pushing ~400hp/420ft/lb

 

Sweet 335!

 

 

 

 

I keep seeing this thread come up... don't usually pay much attention as I am not much or a detailer. For years I leased vehicles and, having lived in a highrise condo for many years, don't put much effort into my vehicles.

 

My regimen consists of nothing more than coin-op car washes where all I use are the high pressure wands. Honestly I haven't hand washed a vehicle of mine in going on 10 years. Yeah they look terrible most of the time but I don't really care that much. I replace my cars about once a year (although I would like to stretch that out to at least 3 years like when leases were available - if I can find one I can live with for that long) but it seems I can't get by but a few months without doing something stupid and damaging my paint job.

 

This morning I noticed I had been bombed by a bird... about a 3-inch blast... so I decided to take the car up to the coin wash. All is well... it needs a wash anyway with all the rain we've had recently. I notice the bird dropping isn't coming off all that well so I rub it with my finger (wear cotton gloves at the wash this time of year) and continue to hose the hood down. Eventually the hood looks clean... until I get back home and notice that I have indeed scratched the hood. Great. Just like I did on my 2010 Terrain's driver door shortly after I got it. I just need to learn NOT TO TOUCH the paint... cars these days scratch so darn easily.

 

So I have at least a couple of options.... leave it and let the dust and dirt fill in the scratch, or figure out a way to fix it. Picture attached... I can almost feel it when I run my fingernail across it. I'm assuming the white means I've scratched through the clear coat....

 

Any ideas about how I can get rid of this little nightmare? Need to use OTC products as the temps are dropping and my window to fix it is closing rapidly...

 

Note to self.... have to stop buying black cars... wanted a white one this time but the only white Limited had a trailer hitch which I thought took away from the look of the rear end.

 

Many thanks

Adam

Bird bombs will etch your clear coat if left too long (they are very acidic). How long was the poop there?

You might be lucky and able to remove the etching with a polish or swirl remover.

My display dims quite a bit when the lights kick on. Maybe pay attention to the brightness of your dash or nav to see if your lights are on? Dim display = lights on; bright display = lights off.

I have a 2011 Edge, that to date has been pretty much trouble free. I purchased the vehicle in July. This past weekend we have seen our first minor cold spell. The car sat idle all day Saturday and Sunday when I got in, the door chime sounded as usual, but now it has an awful...buzz (is the only thing I can think of to describe) when it sounds. The turn signal (which I think is a tad loud anyway) also now has this buzz. Am I correct that a single unit performs both of these sound functions? I plan to take it in to the dealer on a weekend when I have some time, but was wondering if anyone else had run into this. Maybe the cold air caused some kind of diaphragm damage. Who knows, but any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

Rick

It's safe to assume that they are one unit. But not guaranteed. Maybe find the part number and see?

Deal! What about another Pre, an Epic, a RAZR v9M, a RAZR VE20, or an SCP-2700? I really need to sell this Epic. The rest are worthless.

I don't need anymore paperweights, but my cousin might want the Epic depending on the condition and price. I'll PM ya

Hi gang. :D For the correct specs and information concerning gearing on various models with various wheels, see this page: LINK - Ford Edge Specs

 

Good luck. :beerchug:

Excellent! thank you.

SyncMyRide published a new list of phones last week...

http://boards.syncco...syncmb&tid=4503

 

For the iPhone 4, they say supports contact photos. I've never gotten this to work on my iPhone 4. Has anyone else?

Thanks for sharing that. I can see that they took their time to make it pretty. Wonder when they will actually start to do some real work. This list is still a joke. Only 4 T-mobile phones, c'mon....

I have a pre, but it's not activated. Who wants it?

I'll give you $20... hahahha

Okay, so I'm not sure it even matters because it sounds like we are talking gearing, but here is a breakdown of the different wheels so while the gearing might be different for the sake of being different, it wouldn't be because of the diameter of the tire, which is negligably different between 18" and 20" wheels (rims). I'm also speaking to the comparison of SEL upgrade pricing to the Limite upgrade pricing. The one variable there would be if you said the gearing doesn't change on an SEL with 20" wheels but it does change on a Limited with 20" rims. I'd love to track down the gearing information if possible.

 

Wheel - Tire - Diameter - Width – Sidewall

17" SE Wheel – 235/65R17 – 29.027 – 9.252 – 6.013

18" Aluminum - 245/60R20 – 29.574 – 9.645 – 5.787

18" Chrome - 245/60R20 – 29.574 – 9.645 – 5.787

20" Chrome - 245/50R20 – 29.645 – 9.645 – 4.822

22" Darth Vader - 265/40R22 – 30.346 – 10.433 – 4.173

 

I enjoy the conversation and I think this is all great consolidated information for someone to stumble across in the future, but don't think I'm losing sleep over this. It's just money, right ;-).

 

If my thinking is confusing, look at it this way. Let's say you want an SEL with 18" chrome and a Limited with 20" chrome (we all have the money for 2 new Edge's, right?). You can get the 20" chrome on the SEL and take the standard wheels on the Limited and it will cost you $893 and then you just switch the wheels up on the two vehicles and you have what you want. Or, you could pay $1437 in upgrades to get the 18" Chrome on the SEL and the 20" Chrome on the Limited from the factory. Same outcome, but the latter way $533 more expensive.

Nice share.

Bump for updated coupon code for Halloween.

I apologize if this has been asked but I could not find it in search.

 

Does anyone have a recommendation for those covers people put over cars for protection from the elements?. I am in NY and am concerned mostly about the winnter/snow and not the heat. From the ones I have seen, it almost looks like they need to be custom made for a car, based on how well they fit, especially around the side view mirror.

I would recommend staying away from covers as they tend to scratch clear coats. I would recommend using Collinite insulator wax 845 to protect it from the elements.

http://www.autogeek.net/collinite-insulator-wax-845.html

Thanks man I appreciate that

Very nice choice! Congrats!

Great product. I actually sell all of the car pro products as well as 100's of other detailing products. If anyone needs something, or wants to get together a group buy, then send me a pm.

I'll have to take you up on this soon

Is this a valid annoyance?

 

2012 SEL comes with 18" painted wheels

18" Chrome upgrade - $676

20" Chrome upgrade - $893

 

2012 Limited comes with 18" Chrome Wheels

20" Chrome upgrade - $761

 

Can someone make me feel better about the 20" wheels being $217 more on the SEL but $761 different on the Limited? I tried to convince myself that the extra cost was the fact that it is changing the "standard" option on the Limited, but that honestly doesn't make me feel better.

 

And yes, I apparently need my annoyances validated by the FordEdgeForum community...

I took the 18s on the limited for numerous reasons. But that doesn't mean I can't spin your current situation to make you feel better.

Look at it this way: SEL costs $893 to get the 20s and Limited costs only $761. That's the only way to feel better; you have to completely forget that you could save $761 and some hassle with the 18s on the Limited.

I'm happy with opting for the 18s. I'm sure I would have curbed the 20s by now

I have a 2007 Edge with 45k miles and getting a vibration while braking. I appears to be a rotor issue and the condition is getting worse. I may be able to get the stock ones turned or replaced but I feel pretty confident that I will run into the same problem down the road. Does anyone have a recommendation on non-OEM rotors and/or brakes? I'm interested in a moderately priced upgrade without braking the bank (no pun intended).

 

Thanks,

Scott

Let me go ahead and fix this nicely for you (before Akirby gets ya). If you mean no pun, then you should spell it "breaking" (destroying) the bank as opposed to "braking" (stopping) the bank.

OK

[/wannabemod-mode]

Currently, I don't know of any real upgrades in the aftermarket that won't break your bank.

Personally, I would get stock rotors for as cheap as I can find and get some company to slot and coat them and cryogenically treat them. I would expect to pay a couple hundred more than a standard set of rotors, but they will last much longer and resist cracking and warping.

Steam cleaning is the most powerful tool for interiors. Nothing can survive steam. No germ, nothing. You are also using no chemicals so you get no resulting odors either. You just steam the surface and wipe dry with a micro fiber towel. Steam is great for getting stains out of carpeting too. It cleans leather well too. If you have a bad odor to eliminate from the vehicle, there is an extremely potent (but absolutely safe) product called SoPure by Carpro. It is available at Autogeek and eshine for US and Canadians. It is a fascinating product that is light-activated. I have recommended it to several people who have permanently removed odors such as old milk and fish.

Clipped this little tidbit to Evernote. I'm sure I'll need it in the future with a 3 YO milk drinker and I'll forget the name by then...