cal3thousand

I wish I had to be within 3ft before the fob opens the rear gate! I have found the gate open MANY times. My body type lends itself to premature fob presses while I'm doing normal activities in the house.

UPDATE:

Heck! Today I was walking my dog. Looked back at my house a few hundred feet away. My tailgate was up and the lights were on. This tells me that the act of walking my dog will trip my tailgate from 200 feet away!

The button will transmit hundreds of feet away. But for someone to press the button on the hatch and have it open while the car is locked would require 3 ft proximity.

I've often wondered about the buttons' abilities. My wife doesn't drive the Edge, but she has a fob on her giant keychain and throws that thing in her purse all willy nilly. I'm afraid that it will unlock due to random movement and such in the purse. I, personally, need to set her down and talk about the fob and how it should be cared for. I can just imagine my 2 year old popping my hatch open after getting into the wife's purse. (Or my pocket while at work or something or walking the dog in your case)

Maybe a cover that prevents inadvertent button pushes? Anyone want to make one?

[any idea what the tire pressure show be with 255/45/20's?

about 35 psi IIRC...

check the door jamb for the truth.

cool.. yeah that on the list .... .. got the k&n drop in.... .. doing the ddm hid's next week.. i need to order.. but thats really about it... i think.... tint~... its wife's ride. i'm pretty limited........no pun~.. :happy feet:

 

but my f1504x4 is decked....programmer...exhaust, intake, rancho shocks.. camo interior..its nuts!

 

http://www.photoshop...dbb570d1ec97f6c

 

check it!.....

That's a HOT truck. That bar is menacing.

I have mine scheduled this weekend, have just over 10k on it, and the oil life still shows about 50% left. I know I received somthing in the mail saying the edge is equipped with the intellegent oil monitor and you should take it in when it says so, but I figured its the 1st oil change.. I figure we can get approx 16k before the oil monitor says it needs changing.

 

M.

Good idea.

If I were to change my oil earlier than the recommended interval, it would definitely be the first oil change. In fact, I'm going to change it out myself at about 3000 miles (4800 km). I could wait until 5,000 mi in my environment easily, but I'm antsy to bust my first jack/lift-free oil change.

Sorry cal3thousand for the confusion. Yes, completely agree with doing the homework. I spent weeks if not months doing mine. My point was to simply spell out the details on the purchase to try and help others. There are too many variable in the purchase of any car so the details help make an educated decision.

Agreed!

There are sooooo many variables: trims, fees, incentives, rates, destination, etc.

I got a lot of examples and understanding from this site, but I had to spend a LOT of time reading it over to compare the apples to the apples.

I completely agree with all points livestrong16 has made. When trying to figure out what others have paid, we should always compare to list price and spell out included options, extended warranty, etc. Here is Canada, there are about $6-7K worth of options you can add to a 2011 Limited so when livestrong16 compares his $4K savings on his Limited to the SEL, we are still not sure what he paid. Like anything else, you never want to overpay. Dealers may but a dumb on but they are fully aware of all incentives going and are bring them out as you negotiate wheather or not you are aware of them. Incentives change from month to month but for the most part, the bottom line ends up being the same. For me, I calculated paying 15% off list after it was all said and done. I was happy with that and the whole purchase process was actually fairly painless. To achive this, I did a 2 year lease pro-rated paying 80% up from with no payments and 20% due in 2 years. This was a option I was not aware of but offered in the negotiating process.

I was the one that mentioned the $4K sticker difference. What I was trying to point out was that the first dealer's terms had me paying the same amount (monthly) as a car from another dealer worth $4K more MSRP. (given same terms incentive etc; rip off city). So, my point is, if you do your homework and prevent yourself from getting ripped off, you can get more car.

If I was dumb and didn't do my homework, I would be driving an SEL with 202A instead of a Limited with 302A (for the same price)

That's good news. I really like the specs on that V6 Mustang engine.

 

I'd also like to see them drop in a dual turbo 4 cylinder. That would make it quick off the line and get better MPG on the highway.

EcoBoost 2.0 is slated for 2012 MY. Should have "similar" performance with added economy to the 3.5L mill.

As for the Mustang's 3.7L, it is actually based on the 3.5L in the Edge. Although the block was a joint venture between Mazda (CX-9) and Ford, Ford threw on the Ti-VCT and developed the RWD mounting configuration to get it up to 305 ponies and 30 MPG.

Went to the dealer and had an interesting experience. They ran my credit and were giving me price quotes but not telling me on HOW much. I finally selected a model that I was eying from another dealer. Asked for the invoice (Which he showed me on his screen) Again he went to his finance mgr and came back with all these pricing quotes. Kept telling me my best option was to lease b/c my interest rate was way to high on a finance.

 

All he said was he'd give me no more/less than $500 from invoice price(33,360). Trade in $3500-4500. $1000 incentive and possible $500 ford finance incentive.

 

He gave me the price range I was looking at BUT I had no knowledge of leases and the pros and cons but again he gave me the monthly price I was looking for. He marked the car as sold and said he was going to get the car from that dealership. There wasn't any paperwork with pricing since the car isn't on their lot, I simply filled out their full credit report paperwork and he said he'd call me when the car was in.

 

I did some homework and found that you shouldn't put any $ down on a lease and to question if mileage is a factor if I'm planning on lease to buy option. Also this doesn't include my $750 brochure coup b/c it never came.. guess I'll call the marketing dept Monday and checking on that.

 

Any suggestions on what I should do? Feeling overwhelmed lol Is it normal to not see a price breakdown b/c the car isn't on the lot?

Hey there,

While it is true that you should try to pay as little up front as your credit will allow (due to risk of total loss), putting your trade in against it is not that bad of an idea. BUT, only if you get a good value on your trade. If your finances allow, keep the trade and sell it on your own. I "borrowed" $2,500 from my IRA account to get the deal done and plan on selling my other car on my own to pay myself back. They would have only given my like $1,000 compared to the $2,500 I know I can get for it.

Here's some things that stand out to me about your interaction with this dealer:

1) Don't negotiate using payments when dealing with leases. It will be too easy for them to increase your payment by 10-20 bucks a month without you knowing (perspective: 20 bucks on 36months is the price of Navigation add-on). The first dealer I visited tried this crap and inflated my monthly payment by $20. Luckily, I whipped out my phone and busted out the calculation in front of him and caught the BS. (I didn't purchase from him and honestly feel like sending him a photo of my new car that he didn't sell me)

2) In fact, you should be negotiating the price of the car whether lease OR buy. Then you get to choose which financing option YOU want. Don't let them control you, you are in the driver's seat of the deal, and if they want to see you in the driver's seat of that Edge, they will comply.

3) Don't let him show you anything on one screen and then more information elsewhere. Too easy for games to be played. As for the invoice, ask for a print out.

4) If you have time, join the EAA (experimental aviation assoc.) and in 30 days time, you will get access to an x-plan pin (unless you kick ace at negotiating, x-plan will behoove you)

5) Pricing should be available before the car is even on their lot, all they need is the VIN. Tell that to his face and see what he says.

This comes from my experience over the 2 months I spent shopping, comparing and investigating before I decided on a lease. In the end, I am driving a Limited with everything that I wanted for the same price that the first dealer tried to offer me on an SEL ($4k sticker difference )

Good luck, in any case, and feel free to PM me to chat about it.

About three years ago, I bought a new 2007 Edge. The wife's been driving up until recently, now I use it for driving to work. It's got about 70k on it, seems to be an ok vehicle, but I'm not 100% convinced I'd buy another one just yet. We had the heater core replaced by recall about a year ago, had to put a new battery in it this past winter, and put new tires on it back in October. The stock ContiTracs were really noisy from day one, but I just waited until they were worn out.

 

Last winter, we had a fit with the taillight bulbs blowing out and melting sockets. But from what I heard that was a common problem. Back in November, a kid in a Jeep Liberty backed into it and we had to replace the back hatch. A friend owns a bodyshop and did the work for us, with a hatch from an '08. That's the one with the recessed door pull. But the wiper arm is now broke, and I'm having a hard time locating a replacement. Anyone have any leads on one?

Try car-part.com

they have parts listings from Junkyard and salvage yards across the nation. They can hook you up with someone like LKQ that might have the part.

Good luck. BTW, many improvements and revisions were put in the new 2011 based on feedback from the market. Check 'em out.

Welcome and congrats on your new ride. Cal, I don't get your joke but I'm Canadian.

Its a reference to a dumb movie line. Team America: World Police. Edge forum was probably not the place for this joke, but when our country does something right, I like to say the line. (It's better with the voice too )

Come to think about it, Canadians probably have a dislike for the 'South Park Guys'...

Navyman,

I'm kicking myself for not jumping on the stock as well. But at least we got the product. Congrats nonetheless!

its 2011.... but were running the 2.4v...grrrr..its mainly when she turns the car off... it will say system updating then thats it...... just wondering whats updating!.. yeah i've been reading about the fuse.. but so far so good. it seems to be running ok

It's been said that it is just a reboot disguised as an "update".

Call the dealer and get updated to v2.8 and you should see less issues. I'm going to schedule my service this weekend although v2.7 has only showed a half dozen issues in 4 weeks.

Welcome, all, to Ford country ! :hyper:

This is my first new car as well as first domestic car in my 15 years of driving. Mulally has made Ford Country a nice place to be.

America!..... F*** , yeah! (<---- don't hate if you don't get the joke)

THEY CHANGED THE FOBS AND THEY STARTED TO LEARN EACH CAR AGAIN WITHIN HRS. SEEMS THAT ITS SOMETHING THEY HAVE NO IDEA ABOUT FIXING OR ARE INTERESTED IN FIXING EITHER . VERY DISAPPOINTED IN THE PRODUCT SERVICE.

Isn't it the car that learns the fob and not vice versa?

Looking for opinions got offered the following today:

 

$39,4XX for 2011 Edge SEL AWD

(inc x plan)

 

options:

Leather comfort package

Sync

Driver Entry package

Block heater

Roof Rails

Nav

Tow.

 

Price is drive away and included $250 doc fee plus GST, and follwing rebates $1000 costco, $1000 custom cash, and $1000 for long term open financeing which I will pay off immediatly.

 

Havent made a counter offer on price but from what I know xplan is usually little room for negotiations.

 

This is for a factory order?

 

Opinions?

I don't think Driver's Entry Package is available on the SEL....

and I definitely paid less on my Limited, so I would negotiate if its an SEL.

I just hold the volume down button - it works so fast it's basically a mute feature.

The knob on the Sony HU is large and quite fast at attenuation, so I use it. But there are times when I'd like to just turn it off. If my daughter is in the car, I will turn it off completely.

I thought the IA key has to be within like 3 feet of the car for the door to lock/unlock I'll have to check it out, I frequently park about 20 feet away from my office desk and wouldn't want the rain to be triggering the sensors on the door.. Easy enuff to test I guess.. stand at the window when it's raining and watch the lights..

 

M.

It does have to be within 3 feet (supposedly). But imagine locking the door, then walking within 3 feet and have it unlock in the rain without your knowledge. Will just have to keep an eye out for this and/or manually tap the fob after gaining more than 3 feet distance.

Hello everyone

 

I decided to install a HID kit in my Edge as well.

 

Can anyone recommend a certain brand/type for the 2011 Sport maybe even with own experience?

I would prefer a 55w 4500K one. But please don't make it a technical topic or you will loose me

 

What I found so far mostly from the forum posts:

 

http://www.retrosolu...NVERSION/Detail

only 35w - would prefer 55w

 

http://www.blindingh...2.php?bulb=9012

only 6000 or 8000k

 

http://www.hidgeeks....ON-HID-KIT-c37/

not sure if I need "regular or "slim" plus would prefer 4500K

 

http://www.xenonhead....net/Ford/Edge/

 

http://www.carid.com...-kit-77434.html

 

http://www.hidkitsxe...adlights-bulbs/

Ultra Slim Digital HID KIT sounds good.

does anyone knows if the relay really makes a difference? Sounds bit odd to me

my choice so far - without the relay

 

Thanx in advance for your support

Go with the slim digitals. They are worth the extra bucks since they will be much easier to mount and are actually have other benefits (including lifespan) if they are quality ones. Check this site out:

http://lumenshid.com/ballast.html

The 18" Chrome Clads are available on eBay for $250.00 ... I've seen a take off set of 20s with tires for $1,500 as well.

Be patient and watch eBay, it will definitely pay off versus the stealership route.

I picked up my 2011 Edge Limited 2 days ago and as soon as I left the dealership I noticed that the door was out of wack. It looked liked it was adjar, I pulled over and checked it and it was snug and closed tightly. I'm going to talk to the dealer about it when I go back about some other items.

That's weird, but I just noticed this on my 2011 Limited as well. Kind of disappointed since I can see it from a decent distance. I'm on a lease and was planning on keeping the vehicle, but if they cannot address this as well as some other issues, I will be swapping it out it 23 months.

I noticed the issue with the hood not being flush a couple weeks ago, and was going to post something and find out if it was common. Even where the front lower fascia meets with the front fender, the panels are not even.

i have had my 2011 sport now for about 2 months. i have so far encountered 3 issues with it. first, the blind spot warning system seems to go on the fritz at the same street location at least once a week. system is restored after i restart the vehicle. the warning i receive says to check with the owners manual.

 

secondly, its seems that when i am on the phone (through the sync system) my volume creeps down. i will have it on max, but then its seems to creep down to mid level. every time.

 

third, drivers seat creaks. especially around turns.

 

anyone else have these issues?

 

thanks,

 

Pete

Pete,

Those don't seem like the usual run of the mill errors that others are reporting.

I don't have BLIS so I can't tell you anything about it.

For the SYNC volume thing, that is truly weird. What version MFT do you have?

Lastly, for the driver's seat, I've seen mention of a TSB to address that. But IIRC it was for the seatbelt being noisy.

I'd have a dealer take a look at all those things.

I have a 2009 Ford Edge with navigation and Sync.

 

This morning my battery was dead, completely dead. My daughter jump started me and I made it to work. Everything seems to be fine now, battery is holding a charge.

 

Except: Sync is seemingly dead. Navigation and radio work fine. My presets on the radio were not lost. But sync is dead.

 

When I press the Media button a message at the bottom of the screen says, "Connection error - Contact Dealer." The instructions in the user manual for Sync say to do a "Master Reset" I press the "Phone" button and follow instructions. When I press the Phone button nothing happens. Nada. I believe that Sync might be really dead.

 

Is there a master reset button on the Sync itself? Or could there be a fuse just for the Sync that I should check? I'd prefer not to take it to the dealer and arrange carpool, etc.

 

Your help is appreciated.

Not sure about 2009s,but 2011s you pull fuse 29.

The only Master Reset that I know is in the menus of Sync, which would require it to be non-dead. Looks like a trip to the dealer might be necessary.

Thanks for the clarificatotion although I wasn't being "smart" when I ewrote 1. My salesman said it was a 5CD player but I sort of knew it was a single because it was capable of playing a regular or mp3 formats.

 

Truth is media storage keeps changing and I no longer use CDs in our Edge, rather I use usb/sd card storage.

Honestly, I have yet to pop my CD player's cherry

I'm still trying to figure out the best way to organize all of my music on flash

So I tried to go out this morning and back out of the driveway and i just happened to be putting it in reverse while the sync was "performing scheduled maintenance" and after the back up camera didnt come on i put it back in park and tried to let it do its thing. NO such Luck ....All it will do is is try to perform the scheduled maintenance reset and then a really quick error box pops up that i cant even see. and then the ford emblem thing comes up and then it goes black....Anyone else had this issue?...I tried taking out the 29 fuse but no luck. Any help would be great. Ill try and post a video later.

That doesn't sound too fun at all.

I had issues this weekend but nothing to that level. Fuse pull fixed my issue though. What version are you on? Maybe it's time to get v2.8?

I noticed a new twist with this issue in my car over the weekend. Once again I had the radio turned off as I was having a conversation with the passengers instead. My current phone will not do the SYNC texting functionality, but I still get the audible noise through the system when I received a new text message. After playing my "text notification" noise, that also turned my audio system back on (to static actually this time as I had had the radio off for a long time and was now out of range of the previous station). This *has* to be a bug, why in the world would people want their radio turning itself back on like this?

 

I mentioned this issue to one of the SYNC chat techs a week or so ago when I was asking about something else. They told me this was normal behavior of the system.

I guess retarded is normal to that guy.

This needs to be addressed by Ford.

My car is a 2011 Edge Limited and it is super.

 

I have a USB flash drive in one of the USB slots with some music on it which I listen to occasionally.

 

I also listen to either AM or FM radio.

 

If I am listening to the radio and stop into a store, when I come back to the car and start it up sometimes the radio will play just as it did before I stopped and sometimes the music from the flash drive will start playing.

 

I'd like for it to resume where it was when I turned the car off.

 

Is there a priority sequence somewhere which determines what media to play upon car start?

 

Is there a default "pecking order" for the entertainment system?

 

It seems like a random choice at this point.

 

Thanks for any suggestions/thoughts.

 

Jim

I'm not sure if there is a priority, but one thing you should check is whether autoplay is set to "ON". I've noticed that the USB will start to play randomly if not set to "OFF". On a weird but related note, whenever I turn on BT Stereo, it starts playing files off of my phone's uSD card. To play Grooveshark or Pandora, I have to turn on BT Stereo, then hit pause and then turn on the app on my phone.

Yesterday, it acted all funky and would disconnect from the phone whenever I turned BT Stereo on. It also wouldn't play USB (it looked like it was playing, but there was no output).

Just now at lunch, I went out an pulled fuse #29 for the first time ever. It fixed the issue with USB sound and BT Media Player disconnecting.

Perhaps your system is wanting a fuse pull to behave. Good luck in your search for a solution. Let us know if you find anything of use.

EDIT: looks like I got beat to the punch.