johnmarkp

I would pull the light out and disconnect the power. Probably a good idea to secure the loose wiring somewhere.

I think it is reasonable to think that the full PSCM AsBuilt is different between models. However it is not unreasonable to think that many sections are the same. Code is often recycled. Not need to re-type all the code needed when you have a large percentage of it already written. Most of the hardware used in the electrical system is the same. With each modules firmware customized for the model it is used in.

I used the Forscan method that Omar posted in this thread on June 12 of 2021. No start stop and no BMS warning.

Well I have a little egg on my face. The offer was legit and it is a Ford program. I still did not like how things started where I was pushed to talk to sales. Out of curiosity, I did call them. The person I talked to was pleasant and helpful, not at all what I expected. The big problem is the cost, $2400 a year for my 2019 with 95K. I get that that age and mileage are factors in the cost. I don't think I am going to do it. But it has given me something to think about.

I just got a notice from Ford that I could extend my Blue Advantage service plan. I least I think it was from Ford. I go to the web site and put in the reference number I got from them. It would not work, there was a problem. The message said I should join a Chat to resolve the issue. Of course they wanted my email address, for no good reason. When I got on line with the Chat lady I was told that she could not solve the issue and that I needed to talk to one of there sales reps. I wonder if this web site works at all or if it is designed to fail so I have to call one of their sales reps. A high pressure sales rep, I am sure. This is total BS and makes me want to buy anything but a Ford for my next car. When did flat out lying to your customers become standard business practice.

You need to make the harness from under the left head light to the center of the bumper. 4 wires. positive, negative, Can+ and Can-. The two CAN wires should be twisted. 18 or 20 gauge for the power is more then enough. If I had to do it again I would use a Cat5 wire. Use one of the pairs for the CAN. I would use a twisted pair for each power wire. For example: Blue Can+ Blue/White Can- Orange and Orange/White Positive Brown and Brown/White Negative This is an easy, but time consuming job, if you have experience with electrical work and basic mechanical skills. However, this is not a beginner project. You can do a lot of damage to the front bumper and wiring harness if you are not careful.

I think you will have to run new wires. The lights will draw at least 12 amps. The wires for the fog lights were not designed for this high of a load.

I have the official printed version of the wiring diagram for the 2018 Edge. There is a good chance it is the same as the 2017. It shows that there is only one version of the wiring diagram for the headlamps. I think this is a pretty reliable source. It shows many instances where there are different wiring schemes for different equipment on the car. There are three fuses. F62 and F67. Both are 50amp that go to the BCM. One for each side. The third is a shared 10 amp, F20. (this might be for the HID igniter). I think there is a very good chance that they will work with the existing hardware and require a change with Forscan only.

I was surprised when I did the work. The right nut was close to the 150 ft/lb spec. The left one was not near the spec. I am not sure where it was at, but I was able to tighten it with little effort on the breaker bar. My guess is that the torque was well under 100 ft/lb and maybe even under 50. I can see how tightening the axle nuts can reduce the clunking by stretching the CV joint out. But what is the permanent solution? New axles, CV joints or both? I have the extended warranty until Feb of next year. I want to keep the car. Do I loosen them back to where they were and go to the dealer again. I really miss the days when most dealers had one or more senior mechanics. Who had been doing it for years and could diagnose something like this in their sleep. Now most mechanics are untrained parts changers.

No it did not sound like that.

I retorqued the axle nuts and the sound has gone away. I was getting from both sides. I guess this means that the CV joints are loose. Now I need to figure out how to get new ones under my extended warranty. Thanks for the help.

Thanks, I will give it a try. Do you know the torque spec for the axle nut?

After three weeks of driving I really like the Scorpian AS Plus 3. Very little road noise if any most of the time. They handle great. I have not driven them in heavy rain yet. In minor rain they were fine. Hopefully I will not have to test them in snow, here in Wisconsin for a while. I would buy these again.

I took it to the dealer and of coarse they did not hear it. Next time I will ride with them. I have six more months on the warranty, so I hope to get it figured out soon.

After two weeks I am very happy with the Powerstop rotors and pads. The shudder went away. I had to do a near panic stop this week and the brakes worked great. At least as good as OEM. The Geomet rotors look great as well.

Thanks, I have been babying the brakes. Maybe it is time to be more aggressive.

When I was doing a brake job on the car. I grabbed the CV half shafts and tried to move them. Both would move in and out slightly. (in line with the direction of the shaft). The right one gave a clicking sound when I did this. Kind of like what I was hearing in the car. Could this be the problem? My guess is no. The sound seems to be temperature dependent. We have had unusually cool weather the last few days and the sound is less noticeable. I did not seem to get much worse as the car heated up.

I have about 200 miles on the new brakes. I sometimes get a shudder, growling noise in the last 1 mph when I stop. Hopefully this will go away with further use.

Finally got the time to install the rotors and pads I got in June on my ST. Not that hard to do if you have the right tools. The 7mm and 11mm Allen sockets and the 18mm standard socket are not normally found in most tool sets you buy. A 1/2 inch impact wrench is also a good idea to have for the job. I can't find the thread here, but the idea to use a bolt through the holes for the anchor plate to remove the rotors is spot on. Both front rotors would not budge using a rubber mallet. I only had time to do the break in. So I cannot comment on how they function yet. The front pads had a lot of life left and the rotors were in pretty good shape. The rear pads were completely worn out and needed to be changed. I'll report back on how the brakes perform.

Giving us more information will help a lot. The model year is a good start. Also I wider photo of the area where the plug is.

I got the Scorpion AS PLUS 3s installed yesterday. Its too soon to be sure about the tires. My initial impression is good. They are definitely softer then the Goodyear Eagles I had before. Road noise is very low. Expansion joint noise is about the same, not bad but still there. Handling seems to be pretty good. I think I will lose the last bit of handling near the edge of the ST's capabilities. But I don't push it too far in my old age, so no great loss. I'll come back with more when I get some miles on them.

I just ordered 4 Pirelli Scorpion AS PLUS 3 tires from Tirerack. I hope to get them installed soon. I'll report back on how they perform.

The more I think about it. The clicking sound when I jacked up the wheel is probably normal when the car is in park. I think I have heard it before. The clunk when slowing down is slowly getting worse. Time to a drive to the dealer. Luckily it is still under the Ford extended warranty.

They look good, but the 20k mileage is just too low.

With on side of the car jacked up I get a clicking sound when I move the front wheel back and forth in the direction of rotation. It is the same for both wheels. (the other front wheel is on the ground). Is this normal? I can't remember if it made this sound in the past.