druck52

Lightly tap the top of the mirror were it attaches to the windshield. It is not fully seated. Just be carefull.

Ok, did more searching on the net and found out:

 

1. My first picture I posted is a good example of a leaking PTU.

2. I don't think my second posting is how you change/check the fluid. A writer someplace else indicated that it is a "pipe" type plug and right above the "Y" in the exhaust.

 

Also found the following on our fourm:

 

"There is a pipe plug in the PTU directly above the "Y" in the exhaust.

Removing this plug with a typical 3/8 drive ratchet allows checking the fluid level.

Ford suggests taking a Zip-Tie, and bending it at a right angle, and trimming the short leg of the zip tie (after bending) to 1 3/4 inch.With vehicle level (I put it up on 4 ramps for convenience), insert the short leg of the zip tie down the fill hole.

Fluid level should be between the bottom of the dipstick (1 3/4" below fill hole) and 1 1/2" below fill hole.

 

On my car, it is overfilled by more than 1/2 inch, and I suspect this can be contributing to seal leakage.

Because there is no drain plug, I have to pick up a suction gun to draw the level down.

 

For those that are low on fluid, Ford recommends their synthetic 75w-140 gear lube (for topping it off, or replacing fluid). "

 

Also found the attached TSB:

PTU_TSB.pdf

from what i can tell the pictures are not the PTU they are the transmission.

I have a 2008 Lincoln MKX limited with auto windows. The drivers side mirror was recently replaced as well as several other unrelated items. The old window motor was really slow. The deaelr put the panel back on and left out 4 screws out. The door panel was not even close to being on right. They had the vehicle for 10 days for all the misc issues. After returning home I took the car back and they fixed the panel. The issue now is when the window goes up using the auto feature it then comes half way back down. It will stay up if you hold the button down for a bit. Does anyone know of a relearn feature for these windows? I hate to take it back in to the dealer for something trivial or easy to fix. Every tip there takes 30mins to an hour at the least.

 

Thanks,

 

Brian

The auto windows need to be reset. I believe the procedure is in the owners manual and you should be able to do it yourself.

So what is it that you do at the dealer adn how long have you been doing it.

Just curious, are you a tech at a dealership. I see your in AZ, can I ask which dealership you work at.

Has anyone noticed that their Edge uses a quart of oil around 5 to 6 thousand mile after an oil change? I hope I have been checking it before all the oil has drained back into the pan. I had a new 2001 Vette and it called for Mobil 1 Synthetic and it would use 1 quart once 3 thousand miles were up after an oil change, and the dealer pulled out a book and showed me that GM said it was acceptable for the enginge to use 1 quart every 3 thousand miles and they refused to fix anything. I hope Ford does not do the same!!! I have been using 5W20 Synthetic Blend and a Pure One Oil Filter. Maybe it would be better to use a fully Synthetic oil???

That is perfectly exceptable in Fords eyes as well. Sorry for the bad news.

Anybody else ever heard of a "park brake service"? I haven't.......

Only if the parking brake isn't working correctly.

Sorry to hear that! But for $700 + $250 core charge you could have ordered a set of new aftermarket wheels from many places for about $1300 That way you could keep the ones you have for snow tires.

Ya you could get aftermarket wheels for not to expensive, or possibly buy one on ebay or craigslist. Also just so everyone knows you don't pay the 250 core charge, unless you don't turn the old wheel back in.

I am driving to Reno this coming weekend in a AWD Edge with 20" wheels. Do i install chains on front tires or back?

I don't think you need to worry about snow next weekend. Also why would you need the chains on an AWD?

Our 2010 Edge Limited, was losing air pressure, turned out to be dented 20" wheel, (from chuckhole??). Neither of us remember hitting a chuckhole very hard. Car has 5000 miles, cost was over $700. I was going to keep the wheel, but there is a $250 core charge. Dealer says they send it back to Ford for testing??? We are disgusted and now worried after we go over a bumpy or chuckhole filled road. We have corresponded with Ford and they feel our frustation, but can't do anything about it. Can't buy the insurance that they offerd at point of sale now either.

signed

A Happy (??) Ford Edge Owner

There is now a core charge on all wheels that ford sells. They do not send them back for testing, but they do send them back. I'm not sure what the reason is for this, but its been that way for about the last year.

Hello,

We have a 2008 Ford Edge Limited with only 40,000 miles on it and for the last several months have been dealing with a brake problem. After giving our original dealership SEVERAL attempts to correct the problem we decided to take our Edge to another Ford Dealership (who has been top notch and extremely helpful) to have them try and diagnose the brake problems. It took them a short time to tell us that the Master Cylinder was bad and was leaking so much that it was full of fluid(our previous dealerships fix to our complaining about the brake problem was to just keep adding brake fluid, never mind finding out where the fluid was going, just fill it up and send the customer on their way!!!), since the master was full of fluid internally it was putting pressure on our calipers and they may have been damaged too. Received a call from them today and so far they have replaced the master and are keeping it for a couple days to see if any damage has been done to the calipers. The dealership contacted Ford to see what they could do and they were basically told that since we are out of warranty they cannot help us at all. The service manager told me to try calling the customer service line and see what response i would get and i got the exact same answer. Needless to say the dealership is going outta their way to help with the expensive problem this has become and is trying to cut any unneeded expenses to help us out. If the calipers have to be replaced our final bill will be well over $2,000.00!!!!!!!!!!! Not exactly what i think we should be pumping into a vehicle with ONLY 40,000 miles on it!! After doing some research i am starting to see a repeated problem some Edge owners are having with Master cylinders in their own rides.The main thing in all of this is that the problem was caught before my wife and kids were put into harms way but it just leaves a bad taste in my mouth on our FIRST Ford vehice we have ever owned. We love the Edge except for this one thing, but brakes to me are a major thing!!! When the time comes to replace our Edge it's gonna be a hard decision. I hope Ford really starts looking into the master cylinder problem they may have. I realize that even new cars have problems but when several people are reporting the same problem there could be a connection. If anyone else has had brake problems please send me a message, i would love to hear your story!!

I'm glad they fixed the problem. I have a question though. Are you sure that the master cylinder wasn't leaking into the booster? A master cylinder can leak, but it would loose fluid externally and internally. A seal in the master can go bad and cause a sinking pedal, but not a loss of fluid. The only way to loose fluid like you said is to have an external leak.

You said that they told you the master cylinder is putting pressure on the calipers and this may have damaged them. This is how a caliper works, This could damage pads and rotors but not the calipers. Maybe you just misunderstood what they were saying, or they are wrong. I would ask for more information.

Not on Fords - at least not on my previous vehicles. It's actually a separate sensor in the front grille area.

You are correct. Fords do not use the IAT sensor. They have a seperate sensor for the ext temp.

My 07 Ford Edge, owners manual, and shop manual are 2000 miles away, as I am on a business trip.

I have to ask what is probably a simple question.

The auto trans and PTU share the same ATF fluid correct?

In other words, if I have the famous PTU leak, (and I do have a slight leak), keeping tabs on it (fluid level) via the trans dipstick is all I need to do? Not pull pipe plugs on the side of the ptu like an old transfer case?

Thanks,

PK

No they are not the same fluid. The PTU has its own fluid. However a PTU leak could be either trans fluiid or gear oil. If its trans fluid then you can keep an eye on it. Best thing to do would be look under the vehicle and see if there is a leak.

I have done this several time in the past to other vehicles. Usually I buy a Flush Kit that allows you to attach a garden hose to one of the hoses running off the rad.

 

But in this case since it is under warranty I am not going to touch it since it might void the extended warranty on the heater core.

 

I believe this is something that has to be done by a dealer?

 

I will read the letter again but I bet you there is a special additive or coolant they are using?

 

Still waiting for a call from the dealer

 

Gary

I have already posted on this in a seperate post, but there is a special tool from ford and no this is not a simple drain and fill or flush procedure. this is much much more involve and will take a couple of hours.

I'm not sure what might cause a vibration in the gas pedal as there is no physical connection between the pedal and the engine. the pedal only sends an electric signal to the pcm and the pcm controls the throttle motor. I'm not sure what the pedal assembly is bolted too, but it would have to whatever it is bolted to that is causing the vibration.

Sounds like it'd time for a brake job.

Needing a brake job would have nothing to do with his symptoms. If he has a hissing sound and a hard pedal, the only thing that can cause that is a vacuum leak. to me it sounds like the booster is leaking.

as I remember from the last time I changed the oil in my 09, it was a 15 MM

Yep, 15mm.

Found a local place to recycle it so....

 

Since the MKX is an '07 and it is a simple job it's time to do a coolant change/flush. Way under mileage I know (33,000) but I prefer to change it out every couple years or so and don't want to pay the dealer to do it and be without our vehicle for 3 days for a simple job (see my wheel bearing thread...grrr). To me it's one of those things that are like 100,000 mile spark plug changes...lifetime coolant? Yeah, right! My questions are:

 

1: What is the cheapest place to get the real Ford Motorcraft Orange Coolant? Obviously not the dealer. Online retailers would be fine but I would think there would be a hazardous materials shipping premium. Wonder if Napa or somebody like that could get it for me? I want to stick with the Motorcraft orange coolant, not the "works with any color" universal antifreeze from the parts store.

 

2: Does anyone suggest using a flush (i.e. Prestone) or just flush it with clean water? We have a 50 gallon plastic barrel in a garage closet of reverse osmosis/deionized filtered water running off a filter that we use for our saltwater/reef aquarium so I can easily use that for flushing and filling. Beats buying jugs of distilled water and is even more pure.

 

3: I don't think they would go for it but I wonder what the "special" additive Ford is adding due to the heater core corrosion issue? I wonder if I could get some of that to throw in with the fresh coolant?

The edge/mkx does not come with orange coolant, it comes with gold coolant. They are not adding a special additive. they are using a special flush chemical and refilling the system with green coolant.

They didnt really know any information

 

The TSB on the service order is 092507

 

unrelated, the 2.1 sync update is nice, my accelleration seems to be much smoother since they had to update the ECM...

Some 2007-2010 Edge, MKX, 2008-2009 Taurus-X, Sable 2008-2010 Taurus, 2009-2010 Flex and MKS and 2010 MKT vehicles may experience a fluid leak at the power transfer unit (PTU) right hand (RH) intermediate shaft seal. The online Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 308-07B has been updated with new tools and service procedures to assist with resolving leaks in this area. In addition, two (2) new seal kits were developed and depending on the location of the leak must be used to prevent repeat repairs.

This tsb came out on the 15th. It is for a new seal kit and installion procedure, not a new ptu.

Also this is part of the TSB

It is necessary to use the updated version of the online WSM, Section 308-07B to perform the actual repair. The service procedure has been updated with new and improved service tools specified. Failing to follow the WSM to perform this repair will result in repeat PTU leaks. Never remove the deflector by use of a pry bar or chisel this will result in damage to the input shaft PTU hub and/or PTU housing. It is very important to properly heat the new deflector to the desired temperature specifications called out in the WSM, prior to installation. Never attempt to heat the deflector on the PTU assembly to seat it, seal damage will result. When the new deflector is properly seated it will be recessed 1/8" - 3/16" (3-5 mm) into the PTU pocket. (Figure 4)

It is more of an installation problem it seems than a parts problem.

Great response guys...thanks for your help... ( and I wondered why I stopped coming here... )

did you think that maybe no one knows where it is?

Took my 2008 Edge in for an Oil Change, Check PTU and Check problem with no heat.

 

Cleaned around PTU they will inspect next time I am in again. Jury is still out as to whether this is fixed or not.

 

No Heat - Mechanic said there was 20 degrees difference between Drivers Side and Passenger Side. They have ordered a special coolant/flush and need to do a procedure which needs a special tool. They have to order this special tool before they can service - might take a month to get. In the mean time I am freezing my ass.

 

Gary

 

Update - Since I posted this 30 minutes ago - I got a call from my Dealer who said he got a call from Ford that this tool is being sent out to all dealers before the end of the year. - Is Ford actually monitoring these entries?

 

Anyone have an idea what this special tool or procedure is?

 

Smokin on the outside - Freezing on the inside!

 

Gary

The tool is being sent to all the dealerships as part of the recall. the procedure is a complete flush of the cooling system and it will take a couple hours if done right.

Just wanted to let you know that it looks like the "revised" coolant is really just the old green coolant that they stopped using in new cars in 2002-2003. The Edge and most new fords have a gold coolant in them. Also the flush is a long procedure, It will probably take 3-4 hours to do and completely flushes the cooling system. Its not a simple drain and fill or even just a simple flush.

Hello there, I just took a trip to Maryland after doing a 4 wheel brake job on a 2008 Edge SE.

 

I cut the rotors due to a vibration and changed the brake pads to NAPA's high end Adaptive One series front and back. Was going to use the Motorcraft, but was looking to improve the feel of the brake pedal which I feel is mushy.

 

I drove over 500 miles and the brake pedal is very mushy. Note that the pedal was exactly the same before the brake job was performed.

 

These brakes feel lousy compared to my other vehicles that are Blue Oval designs. My Freestyle brakes are hard as a rock with no free play at all. The Edge feels like I am driving an old vehicle from the 70's with drums that are out of adjustment. Mushy, with about 1" of free play.

 

To me they just do not feel correct.

 

Has anyone bleed the system using DOT 4 to possibly correct this condition? Changed out a master cylinder? Anything to improve this?

 

I do feel that everyone here knows what I am talking about. When I went to the Ford dealer to ask some questions, they just told me that is the way the brakes are on those vehicles.

 

I am not buying it. If it is normal, shame on Ford for putting such a poor system into production.

Has your pedal always felt like that. If so then it is probably normal. If not then you may have air in the lines. The edge does seem to have a softer pedal than other cars, but stops fine. I would try and bleed the brakes first.

http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2009/09...state-fair.html

 

4th paragraph.

 

Then about 2/3's down the page..

 

Addition of Trailer Sway Control. ("to long-standing AdvanceTrac features".)

and that has what to do with anything.

As for the hill start, do a search on here and you will see that the edge does roll back on hills. So there goes your theory.

Thanks Druck......."hill assit" and "hill start" must be two different things ! :wacko: :wacko: :wacko:

They are I guess. I have never heard of "hill stat". Maybe some manufacturs use it, but Ford does not. Not on any of its vehicles. Don't listen to what WWEST as most of it is flat out wrong.

"Hill-Start" is a feature which will apply the brakes while stopped on a grade to make it easier for the driver to initially start moving uphill.

 

"Hill-Assist" is a feature which automatically uses the brakes to keep downhill forward motion to a minimum.

How bout this then. The edge does not have Hill-Start.