druck52

I appologize, machining rotors on the vehicle will probably not produce runout. However, I am confused about exactly how you would machine a rotor with the wheel still on the vehicle. Seems to me it would get in the way. I am sure there is a way and I am sure you will tell me. I would like to see it a brake shop or at a Ford dealer. What you are likely going to see is the standard turning machine for rotors. Those machines tend to machine runout into the rotor when re-surfacing.

 

I have measured rotors after turning and found the runout to be over 10 times the OEM spec of 20 microns. When you re-install a rotor with that kind of wobble in it, it is only a matter of time before the problem returns. I work for a major brake supplier in an R&D facility and have a (NIST traceable) machine who's original cost was approximately $125K and who's sole purpose is to measure thickness variation in brake rotors that cause pedal pulsation, but I am probably wrong and you are probably correct.

 

To be sure, pedal pulsation is caused by brake Disc Thickness Variation (DTV)

DTV is a term used by the industry.

Dealers will generally resist the replacement of rotors and pads.

If you ask a brake systems test engineer, you will be told to replace everything.

You seem like a smart guy. and you say you work for a brake supplier in R&D, so tell me. How do you not know what an On the car brake lathe is. Do you really think you turn the rotor with the wheel on? You remove the wheel, but leave the rotor in place. the machine is then bolted to the hub and turns the hub. you then zero the runout and machine the rotor. This will take out all runout and you will not have an issue with a brake vibration. Just for your info, this is the only way ford recommends rotors to be machined. I can not say whether or not all dealerships do it this way, but this is the correct way. You would think someone that works for R&D department for a brake pad manufacturer would know about this. But just for you here is a link to one maker of on the car brake lathes http://www.procutinternational.com/lathes.aspx

Also for you previous post about the pad not returning and "maching" the rotor. You say the only way to fix this is you replace the pads and rotors. This will fix the problem, but not the cause. You say to check the slides and this is something that could cause that problem, a sticking slide will cause the pad to not return, but it will also cause premature brake pad wear. their is another thing that will cause this, if the piston is sticking in the caliper, this will cause the same problem, again this will cause premature brake wear. The only way to fix that is to rebuild or replace the caliper.

Just out of curiousity, what do you do in the R&D facillity. If you are wondering I work at a ford dealership.

What you have is not a warped rotor. You have a condition that can be called DTV (Disk Thickness Variation). When the brakes are applied, they squeeze the rotor to stop the vehicle. When the brakes are released, the release of pressure on the caliper piston the the greased guide pins are supposed to creat a condition in which the friction pads are "knocked" away from the rotor.

 

The fact that you are feeling brake judder (the pulsing of the brake pedal) means that when the brakes are released the pads are not backing away from the rotor. When they do not back away, the rotor knicks / brushes against the rotor ever revolution of the wheel. This is a slow process, but what happens over time is that the friction pads actually "Machine" material away from the rotor in the same location and, over time, the thickness of the brake disk changes and that change of thickness is then transmitted to the brake pedal in the form of "Judder" or "Pulsation" when the brakes are applied.

 

I know this because inspection of these components is what I do for a living.

 

If your vehicle is under warranty they should fix it.

 

 

The ONLY proper fix it to replace both the rotors and pads with new.

(The dealer willl probably offer to re-machine the rotors. The problem with this approach is

that when the rotors are remachined, the result is that there is now runnout (wobble) on the friction surface.

This means that it is only a matter of time before the problem returns, this time it likely will be out of warranty.)

They should also inspect the calipers and guide pins for both proper movement and lubrication.

If anyone tells you that this is NORMAL WEAR, they are simply mis-informed (That includes the dealership).

If you machine the rotors on the vehicle there will not be runnout. This is the correct way to machine the rotors as it machines them true to the hub. also if he feels the vibration only when braking the rotor is indeed warped. it may have been cause by whay you are saying, or it may have been cause by excess heat. but to say the only way to fix it is to replace the rotors is wrong.

I'm looking for 2 of them. what is your best price and where are you located?

just so you know, if you read up the page some it says they were sold already.

I'm guessing the OP meant 6,000 miles. 60,000 miles in one year is a lot, and way out of warranty (b2b).

 

Please remember that the dealer is not Ford and there's nothing Ford can do here without the dealer's cooperation.

I thought about that too, but if meant 6000 and there is still a problem then it would be covered under warrenty, this is why I assume that he was correct in saying 60,000 miles.

I purchased a2007 Ford Edge in Nvember of 07 brand new. Shortly after that I began to feel a pulsating sensation from the back end of my vehicle. I also was feeling this jerking and hearing a pop click sound. I took my Edge back to the dealership wherew they said they could find no problems or sounds or pulsating. I trusted them and here I am 60,000 miles later and the problem has now escalated and they are telling me I have a bad rear wheel hub assembly on the back rear drivers side tire! The same place that I told them the noise and pulsating was coming from over a year ago! They refuse to fix my vehicle even though I have in writing on the dealership letterhead where I made the complaint back in 2008. I am so disgusted with this whole situationa nd I will never buy another Ford and especially not from that dealership! These people have no morals or heart, I purchased an american made vehicle and I am regretting every minute of it. The fair and just thing to do is to correct the problem especially since I tried to tell them about it over a year ago! So unfair, poor customer care and they should be ashamed!!!!!

I hope you don't take this the wrong way. First if you had the same problem after you had it att he dealership when it was new, why did you not take it back in to be looked at again or take it to another dealership. Second bad wheel bearings will not last 60,000 miles, it would have gone bad much sooner. To me it sounds like the dealer is correct in that they are not related, and also that you should pay for the repair. Sorry if you don't agree with me.

Hi,

 

I have about 24,000 miles on my 2007 Edge tires that have been rotated on schedule. The tires are P245/60R 18 Continental Cross Contact LX.

 

I have noticed that the road noise from the tires seem to get louder with age. Is this because of the type tire or is it because the Edge is an AWD?

 

What would the best solution to reduce road noise be?

 

Thank for any help or guidance that you can give me.

Are you sure that its road noise from the tires and not a bad wheel bearing? If you are sure its the tires, the only way to get rid of the noise is to replace the tires. I have the michelin tires on mine in the same size and really like them.

Seems like this bully and troll was right about the throttle body being bad. Just glad that she got the problem fixed.

stalling? Oasis report has it in every few thousand miles for a "stalling" issue. dealer took it for 400 miles and never duplicated the problem and after the 3rd or 4th time a Ford rep came out and took it for 300 miles and found nothing. everytime they diagnosed the cas they found nothing. Almost like the origninal owner couldnt afford it or didnt like it after buying it.

Well I hope that you don't have any problems with it. I would think that after 700 miles they should have been able to duplicate the concern.

Is it really necessary to follow BlazedUp from thread to thread trolling?

 

Good stuff ablb!

If he wasn't one here giving out so much wrong info I wouldn't bother with him, But most of what he writes is just wrong. I come on and help when i can. If you want to call me a bully or troll thats fine. But I have been on here for a long time. Also i wan't following him, incase you didn't notice i did post advice on the topic.

yes, I was happy it was an easy fix. I was a little skeptical on buying it in the first place as its a RAV vehicle and then the first night we have it this happened.

 

She loves it though. So do I I just dont express it...haha

Do you know what it was reaquired for? It should have had all concerns fixed before it was resold, so hopefully you don't have any other problems

Sounds like a camshaft position sensor issue. My idle would jump up and down stopped with foot on brake. I believe this went on for a week or so before the check engine light came on. Camshaft position sensor is a known issue with these cars.

Just curious, since you have the repair manual and any moron and fix a car, how would you go about fixing this concern. Do you also have an IDS, you must, since you have it all and know it all.

I own a 2008 Ford Edge, which currently has 35,000 miles. Recently I noticed that my idle speed is fluctuating about 500rpm. I first noticed it after completing a 260 mile trip and associated it with the A/C being on. After shutting A/C off, I realized that the A/C just made it more noticeable but it was still there. When stopped at a light, the rpm drops from its usual 600rpm's to about 400 and then increase to about 900. Problem is fairly constant once the engine warms up, about once every three seconds. I don't see the problem when engine is cold. I think I can feel rpm changes while driving as well.

 

 

Any ideas?

Sounds like it could be the Electronic Throttle Body, but without seeing the car and checking it out myselft, that is just a guess.

Excuse me for posting a good deal so people can save money on an item that needs replacing every year. I was not aware the free shipping was temporary........I bought 2 of these filters a year ago for $3.30 a piece through amazon but now they are not listed and they do not know when or if they will be selling these filters again. Just trying to help people out. "when people post stuff like you do" thats when this site becomes not so helpful. Troll.

Maybe you should check your info to make sure it is correct and up to date before posting.

I have the catalog and access to the ford database. With this database, a moron can repair anything on cars.......very detailed instructions and idiot pictures with every step. I just cannot find where any model other than the sport, has "sport tuned" suspension.

The repair info and the parts info are completely differnt. the shop manual gives you the base part number, not the whole part number. and the base number is the same for shocks, or sway bars. But if you don't want to believe me, thats fine, beleive what you want. And good luck repairing your own car, since any "Moron" can do it, I guess it shouldn't any problem for you!

Thicker sway bars and "sport tuned shocks and springs" I have the Ford parts catalog. All spring rates are the same. This is a bullsh*t package. The sport model handles good because of the massive 22's !

You have a ford parts catalog? How did you get that, I don't believe that for a second. But you can believe what you want.

Yep, I took off the other covers... not easily, by the way.

(Which leads me to wonder if it was vandalism instead of the wind.)

Anyhow there is a prefix to those numbers of 7T43-78XXXXXX.

But you would have thought the dealer parts computer could still pull up something.

So, I will check with a larger Ford dealer.

 

I am still planning on putting the Thule Tracker feet on so I feel better carrying two kayaks and two bikes at once.

I have the Thule setup and used it on the Explorer, so no big expense.

Will share photos.

Chuck

That is probably the engineering id number, not the same as a part number. however a good parts guy should have been able to cross that number over. There is still a chance though that the part is not serviced seperate from the rail.

Stiffer springs/ different shocks what parts are different ? I have not been able to locate different parts for the "sport tuned suspension" when looking for stock replacements. All suspension replacement parts have no listing for "sport tuned" vs. non sport tuned. They all fall under 2007-2009 Edge.

The Edge sport has the "sport tuned suspension" but this is not available on any other model.

And were are you looking for these parts? a Ford dealership or online? I don't have a parts catalog in front of me, but if they list a sport suspension package, then you can bet there is different parts listed. It could even just be a thicker sway bar, it does not have to be struts or coils.

I know there is a "package" The suspensions are the same.

The design might be the same, but the parts are not.

Folks,

 

Those numbers came from the "WORKSHOP MANUAL 2008 EDGE, MKX - VOUME 1" Pages 501-08-3, 501-08-4.

 

If you 'hit' "Ctrl" "+" or "-" you can enlarge or reduce the photo size.

 

All the best,

 

Mark

Those might be thew "basic" number, but like i said, those are not the full part number.

All suspensions on all model Edge's are exactly the same.

That is not correct. There is a sport suspension package.

Those part numbers...551A92-3, 551A92-4 got me blank stares from the local Ford dealer. His only option was to buy the whole rack! Black duct tape could work...

 

The Adventura from perrycraft.com is a cheaper, yet better, option.

 

Anyone with a suggestion?

Thanks,

Chuck

Thats because those numbers you have listened are not ford part numbers. I don't know where those numbers came from.

Is the electrical harness in place to install the power lift gate on our 07 Edge SEL+? I noticed the area where the motor would attach is cut out with a cubby. Any help would be great.

Nope, its not there.

Hi everyone, sounds like you guys know a lot about satellite radio. I'd like to try it for 6 months, but there is a problem.

I got 09 LTD with navigation and when I called Sirius for activation we could not find the ESN number. In the system info slot where the ESN should be displayed, there is only lines but not the numbers we need. Has anyone run in to this problem? I wander if there is a way to enter the number manually or there is a reset which might help? If any one had this problem, please let me know.

Thank you,

Sparky

Did your car come equiped wqith the sirius radio? it sound be activated already when you get the car. If it is equiped then you might need to take it in to the dealer for further diag.

That is not normal man! The car is only 6 months old and it is already encountering those kinda of problems. i think the dealer should replace the entire car man. Just a tip when buying cars. Check each and every part of the car, especially the engine parts. Check even the smallest detail like the bolts for example. Check if there is no missing Differential Cover Bolt. Sometimes when the differential cover looses its bolts, noise builds up when stepping at the gas.

A missing cover bolt will not cause a noise, unless the diff lost all of its fluid, but a missing bolt is not going to cause you to loose all your fluid.

My right tail light has been acting weird for the last couple of weeks, and I am open to any advice on the issue.

 

Originally it was not working at all, so I though the main bulb was just out, however a day or so later it was working again. It continued to work for a couple of days and now nothing again. Except some mornings when I leave for work and unlock the doors with my remote the tail light will light up, but when I get in the car and turn on the lights, blinkers, brakes etc... nothing works.

 

I have removed the tail light check all the bulbs and reseated them as well as reseated all of the connectors, with no luck on a solution.

 

Any ideas?

Have you tried a new bulb? it may just be bad. There are 2 filaments in the bulb, one for the brakes, one for the tail lights.