druck52

Did my second PTU visit today; leaking again after repair of a month ago.

Service rep informs me today that a new TSB was issued on Saturday, April 18. They are waiting for new or revised repair details before ordering replacement ( revised?) parts.

I just hope this is not a "cock and bull" story!!

I just looked and there is a new TSB 09-8-10 that was issued april 17th. It has 2 new part numbers for seal replacement depending on weather the ptu is leaking or the transmission is leaking. There is also a new service procedure. So hopefully this will fix the leak problems.

Looks like discotic has an AWD so there could be a problem with the wheels.

A few stealers might try to claim they caused the PTO leak.

 

ab

I don't think that any DEALERSHIP will try and deny the claim. And the can not, there is a TSB for this known concern. Wheels would not cause it.

Im putting on the factory 18's before i take it in... i decided due to the last post..

Save yourself the trouble and leave them on. It will not void your warranty and will not give you any problems with an oil leak.

Just got the report.....Bad wheel bearing. Thanks for your input Druck, it is nice to have a real mechanics advice on here. Of course the part has to be ordered. Is it ok to drive with a bad wheel bearing? I hear that once they go, the wheel can fall off :o

Thank you. I try and help when I can. It can be driven, but I would not drive far and be very careful. The best advise would be not to drive it if possible as it is possible for the wheel to come off if the bearing completely fails.

My wifes Edge developed this rather audible "hum" noise while cruising on the highway. As we go faster the noise speeds up......the sound is like a quiet airplane you hear off in the distance or like a sound you would hear if you put a baseball card in the spokes of a bike. I put the car in neutral while cruising at 55 and this had no effect on the noise....also revved it up while in neutral and still, the noise remained constant.....It does seem louder when sitting on passenger side. At first I thought it was the tires, but the noise remains constant wether on asphalt, concrete or even dirt. Of course the noise slows as the car slows and it just abruptly showed up over the weekend.

2008 Limited AWD.

It sounds like a bad wheel bearing.

Hi druck. :D Just so you know, I am not sure why you felt the need to quote my reply in your post. Since you did, I get the feeling that you did not read the full thread. If you had read and understood the complete thread you would have understood that I never stated that the brake pads would be covered for normal wear and tear, do not think it is a brake pad problem (using extremely inaccurate Internet diagnosis ), and have been pointing out to CE the possibility of it being more than a brake pad problem (i.e. sticking calipers, wheel bearing problems, etc).

 

Actually, if you had not quoted my reply and simply told CE "Just so you know CE, the Warranty coverage on brake pads for normal wear and tear is 12 months/18,000 miles", I would have had nothing to say or add. But since you did quote my reply, it seems you felt you had to correct something that I did not even say. The problem here is that CE is under the mistake impression that almost anything with the brakes will not be covered under Warranty. That is incorrect. If anything, you as a Ford Tech should encourage CE and others to bring their cars into a Ford Dealer for service, so they can be diagnosed and repaired correctly. Warranty and otherwise. Right?

 

Concerning your reply: The 12 month/18,000 mile Warranty applies only to replacement due to normal wear and tear. Warranty coverage for brake pads found to be defective in material or workmanship and/or any collateral damage cause by those defective pads would still be covered under Warranty for 3 years/36,000 miles.

 

It also seems you did not realize that the conversation had already progressed beyond a discussion of whether it is actually the brake pads or not. CE has not had his car into a Ford Dealership to be properly diagnosed, and is currently simply going by the word of a mechanic in a local brake shop. And this brake shop mechanic closely looked at the brake pads and only ""thinks" it may be the ridging at the outer edge of the pads." Well, if I had a close look at CE's brakes, I would have been able to definitively say for sure if that was the problem or not. So this leads me to believe the mechanic is only guessing and it just as likely is not the brake pads causing the problem. When a mechanic has had a chance to see the pads/brake system components close up, "I think" doesn't cut it (in my opinion). Therefore, I still recommend that CE take his car to a Ford Dealer for a proper diagnosis. And then if it is a Warranty problem, it will be covered.

 

Additionally, my advice already took into account what he should do/can do to protect himself if the takes it to his Ford Dealer for service and it should turn out to be a non-Warranty item. He would still have the option to take his Edge someplace else for repair.

 

However, the current facts are that his car is still under Warranty. So therefore, for the most comprehensive coverage, he should take the car into a Ford Dealership to be diagnosed. If it is not a "brake pad problem" then there is a damn good chance it would be covered under Warranty. I would certainly hope you would not disagree with that sensible advice.

 

You do agree that CE should bring his car to a Ford Dealer for proper diagnosis and service, especially since it is still under Warranty, right? Well, that is all I was trying to say.

 

The rest is up to CE, and I respect whatever decision he and his company may make.

 

Hope all of the above information makes my reply a bit easier for you to understand.

 

Good luck. :beerchug:

He has had inspected and they did not find any sticking calipers, and plenty of pad material left. While I agree with taking it to the dealership most times as i work at one. I do not see a reason to if it is infact the pads. If he trusts his mechanic why spend the extra time and money to take it to the dealership for the same diagnosis.

Hi CE. :D Before I continue, let me say upfront that I am not trying to tell you or your Company how to service your car. However, there is a 3 year/36,000 mile Warranty on the Edge (in the U.S). Since you quote your mileage in kilometers, perhaps you are in Canada and I am not sure at the moment what the Canadian Warranty is, but it must be similar.

 

I must politely disagree with your assumption that "With 47,000 km and over a year old there is not likely to be any warranty issue." It could very well be a Warranty covered issue. In fact, that is more likely than not.

 

Since your Edge is not even two years old and has less than 36,000 miles, the best course of action is usually to bring it to the Dealership for service. In this way, the Dealership can check for the latest TSB's and other inside information that is sometimes only available to Ford Service Technicians, but not necessarily available to outside Service Shops. This may be a problem that could have been taken care of at a Ford Dealer in the first visit.

 

By taking it to the Ford Dealer, if the problem is Warranty covered (which most are in the first 3 years/36,000 miles) then there obviously is no charge. If it is not covered by Warranty and there would be an out-of-pocket charge, all you need to do is inform the Service Writer ahead of time (when you dropped your car off) not to perform any non-Warranty repairs without contacting you first. Have it noted on the Repair/Work Order. Then once you are contacted, you can decide whether to have it Dealer repaired or repaired at your Independent Service Shop. This is what I do.

 

Additionally, since the vast majority of vehicles a Ford Dealer services are Ford vehicles (obviously), the Ford Service Techs are more familiar with Ford vehicles and their particular strong points and weak points. An independent Service Shop, no matter how competent and "reasonable" may not have that familiarity (or information access), unless they only specialize in Ford vehicles.

 

Again as I stated upfront, I am not trying to force you to do something your Company does not allow. But since your car is still covered under the Bumper to Bumper Warranty, a visit to the Dealer would be your best course of action.

 

Just trying to help you get this taken care of as quickly as possible.

 

Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Just so you know. Brake pads are only covered for 12 months or 18,000 miles. So he is probably correct that the pads would not be covered.

Any luck tracking it down. It sounds eerily similar to an issue I'm having with my 2008. A popping creaking/noise, kinda sounds like styrofoam being rubbed together, coming from somewhere in the drivers door or window at lower speeds. The rear driver's door does it as well.

 

I've had into the shop twice trying to find out what is causing it, with no luck. The replaced the outside trim piece that goes along the top of the door. (Not the window frame, that long horizontal piece that starts at the mirror and goes along the top of the door.) No help there.

 

Today they replaced all the weatherstripping in both drivers doors, thinking maybe they were sticking and rubbing against each other somehow causing the noise. Thought it might be because if you crack the doors open (where they're still latched but not full closed) the noise goes away. No luck with the new weatherstipping.

 

The tech has been extremely helpful trying t ofind out what it is, but the service manager took a ride in it today and essentially declared that it's normal noise from body flex and gave me the impression I should just live with it. Tech doesn't think it's mechanical, but we can't seem to isolate it. He made some kind of posting on an internal ford service to see if anyone else around the country has dealt with a similar problem. Hopefully he finds something out.

 

Low speed, uneven surfaces, when the body might flex, I get a noise. Highway speeds and I don't notice a thing. If I roll the window down just a little bit while it's creeping along, the noise also goes away.

 

It drives me insane, but I got no ideas what might be causing it. Perhaps it is normal body flex making things creak, but it didn't do it when I first bought the car in December.

 

Anyone here got any ideas?

Try and lube the door latch.

Had similar problem with my 2008 Edge on Friday 3/27/09. Have a grand total of 6060 miles on car. Had stopped at stop sign attempted to go forward after stop, engine just roared as if in neutral. Car then thrust ahead with a strong jerk and then immediately went back into neutral. I pulled car into a safe area, put it in neutral and then shifted the car back into drive. NOTHING except engine roaring. Car then thrust forward and then lost total power of drive gear. This continued the mile to our house. I almost was rear ended when car lost drive and as I pulled over to get out of way, the drive gear once again went from 0 to 80 on odometer and the RPM jumped way up as car shot forward. This time, I almost hit car that was going around me. Had car towed to Ford Dealer on Monday. (had not driven car all weekend). Explained problem to them and they said that they had never heard of this problem. WRONG, we checked the message blogs and found 17 other people having same experience. They drove car a few times, checked the computer system and could not find any problem. I also had to rent a vehicle because I had not purchased car from this dealer. Now have car back, NOT FIXED or problem solved. Now I am very concerned about driving car in heavy traffic areas. Too bad as prior to this, I had loved this car. I am going back to our original dealer and see if I can get some satisfaction from them. At least they will furnish me with a car while getting this problem worked out. ........ I ALSO had the extended warranty that was supposed to furnish any car without fee.

While I can't say what went wrong, I can tell you this. Just because people have complained of a porblem on the internet does not mean the dealership has heard of the problem or seen the problem before. Your talking about 17 people across world having a problem and you expect 1 dealership to have seen this issue. Taking it to another dealership still may be a good idea. You may need to leave it with them for awhile though to try and duplicate the problem.

I have an annoying sound coming from the area of my door post - doesn't sound like its coming from the door itself but rather from the area of the door post. I hear it when I hit the brakes, or when I accelerate, or go over a bump. A creaking sound - something like metal surfaces or plastic surfaces in close contact sliding relative to one another.

 

The dealer seemed to think it may be a bad weld in the body under the door frame trim - all of that would have to be removed.

 

Anyone have any thoughts/suggestions?

Lubed the latch. Its a fairly common problem.

oh contrair duck.........Taking off provides less hot, less dense air from being sucked into the engine. This hot air is recycled into the motor being burned off producing less emissions. Dealers do not, and I repeat do not put a dressing on engine componets to make them "look new"........they are new ! I agree about taking the car to the dealer, but he was looking for info before doing so. PCV or positive crankcase ventilation is for emissions only.......anyone who tells you different is lying, or have no idea about the workings of an internal combustion engine. I was merely suggesting to check the obvious before taking it in for service. You say "there are many benefits from having it " please explain these "benefits" as I am always looking for new information to prove me wrong, I miss the days when valve covers just had vents to vent the hot un-usable air into the atmosphere.

The system helps pull gases out of the crack case, not just letting them vent. This can actually help keep sludge from building up. If you are building an all out performance engine, then you would not want it. but for anything that you drive on the street, there is no reason to not have it.

I have no oily residue anywhere in my engine compartment. It sounds like the crankcase vent tube may be loose or off. This tube takes the air from the valve covers and directs it back into the air induction. I deleted this on my mustang as it is strictly for emission purposes. Take the car in to your dealer and have everything inspected. You should never hear a "metallic snap" when starting an engine. If everything checks out at the dealer, I strongly suggest you switch to Mobil 1 0W-20 full synthetic oil. After I switched @15,000 miles, my MPG went up 1.2 mpg...according to the computer, so it actually pays for itself, not to mention much better protection on a "cold" start-up.

The PCV tube is there for more than just emission's. There are many benifits from having it, and taking it off provides nothing.

As for the oily residue, The car is new and is it possible it is the dressing that dealership put on to make everything look shinny?

He should take the car in to the dealership to be looked at. There is no way we can diag it over the internet.

Silly question, but for you '09 owners, are the dash vent lovres in your Edges horizontal or vertical? The ones in my '08 are horizontal, but I have a brochure for the '09 model and all the pictures show the vents with vertical louvres, which look like they'd do a better job of directing the air flow.

They did change them in 09. I haven't tried one out yet thought to see if they work better or not.

Ok, yesterday I reported that I had a custom CAT system installed on my 08 SEL. The muffler tech used the same size piping for the job and placed a Magnaflow in the same place where the resonator was ( I had the resonator removed the day before ). He had a single pipe running to the rear of the car and then Y'd it out to the tips.

 

My problem is that the more I drive it the more I realize it is just a deep hum, and nothing like what was on the audio / video clips posted. What am I missing?

Is it the location of the muffler, should it be in the rear or is it the size of the pipe or both? I am looking for throaty not deep humming?

 

Please advise!

You probably need to have the resonator put back in. moving the muffler will not help.

'08 SEL FWD - 9/2/08 - Sanderson Ford, Glendale, AZ - FoMoCredit 100% @ 0%/72mo

base: 27730

white sand tricoat: 495

pwr liftgate: 490

18" chrome hubcaps: 750 (shoved down my throat, would NOT swap, still pissed)

delivery: 755

$300 under invoice: -1702

doc fee: 175

tags & title: 489

---------

TOTAL pre-tax: 29181

Just curious. how did you like Sanderson Ford. I used to be a tech there, but moved to California. I worked there for over 5 years.

Well . . . my Edge spent the day at the dealer today and I drove a loaner on the house. They gave it the college try but were unsuccessful. It was in for 7 hours plus and a portion of that time was with two techs. One was on the phone with Ford getting instructions for IDS while the other was downloading and attempting to upload to my vehicle. It seems that IDS does not support it. Which, raised a BIG concern with the dealer when I asked them: "What would you do if you had a vehicle on the showroom floor or your lot with SYNC and every option but NAV that the customer wanted & you cannot simply replace the radio and have it all work? That would seem to be a useless system that Ford has created." So, they've kept the vehicle for another night/day (tomorrow) and are going to try some "other resources". One of the dealer owners, the sales manager, the service manager & two techs are all involved and convinced it can be done (without re-wiring the vehicle) SO, I am still in process, they're still determined and I'm still driving a free loaner . . . . If it comes to re-wiring I'll not pursue further. . . . I'll trade it in!! LOL

 

Stay tuned!

I don't know if it will work or if they have tried it, but I have a suggestion. I think they need to upload the info to the IDS from another like vehicle that has nav and sync, then download it to your car. That will prgramm the audio module as if it was in the other car. Its worth a try. Thats what I would do. I had to do that to my car to get the nav to communicate with other modules when I upgraded to the Nav, but I do not have sync. Hope that helps.

I believe that there is a TSB for that. I think it is for the front cv axles. But without looking it up I'm not 100% sure of that.

You were indeed correct. I sprayed some Slick 50 in the door latch mechanism and presto!

Thank you for your insight and expertise.....

No problem.

Yes, it is more of creaking....kind of metal on metal or plastic sound. It seems to do it when the body flexes when going around a corner at slow speeds or over a speed bump in a parking lot. I can almost duplicate it by setting up the right scenario.

If you have some WD-40 around, try spraying it on the latches like I said. I think that will fix it and save you a trip to the dealership.

I've got a nagging rattle in my 07 Edge.

 

It sounds as though it's in the area of the front drivers side door lock or maybe in the drivers side seat belt retraction mechanism. I've had it checked by the dealer once already with no results. I'd like to be able to isolate it further before taking it in again so as to improve the odds of them finding it.

 

Anyone had the same or similar issue?

Is it a rattle, or more of a creaking noise. Try spraying some WD-40 into the latch mechanism on the door and see if that helps. Do all the doors. If its a creaking noise that may help, if its a rattle it may not. Either way its worth a try.

I was going to do the same thing with my 08 Edge with Sync (no nav0. I called Ford to make sure Sync would work, they said yes but rewiring is involved to get Sync to work with adding a Ford nav unit after the fact. They wanted $2300 for everything. That made my decision easier:) Not. Keep me posted on your progress. Did you but it off Ebay, I was looking at those. I wonder how much Ford would charge for programming/install only.

If they already had sync, which they did and the radio is compatible with sync then no wiring is involved. I still think programming is in order. Same goes for you. If you had sync already then the dealer is wrong. No wiring should be involved.

Well I guess in the end, the Tech saw exactly what I was talking about. It was rust build up on the rotors. A few hard stops may get rid of it. There was one more option like I had said. He could have deglazed the rotors(basically sand them). That would have gotten rid of the rust and does not involve removing any material. That is what I would have done, and I would have had it charged back to the new car department, as ford would not pay that as a warranty claim.

I went by my dealer today and they were able to enable the daytime running lights. :happy feet: :happy feet: :happy feet: :happy feet: :happy feet:

I'm glad they were able to. All I know that some you can, some you can't. I don't know why or which ones work and don't work though. Do you have the auto lights? I wonder if that is the difference.

Hey all!! New to the forum, new to the Ford Edge. Just picked up an '08 & LOVE it. Great forum here and very informative.

 

My Edge had NO navigation. So, I picked up a NAV unit. Ford/Pioneer (Ford P/N 8T4T-18K931-BA) I got the unit, the NAV antenna, the NAV DVD & user manual. This is an '08 unit (chrome around the Volume & Load/Eject knobs & has the "phone" button in the left bank of hard keys. It was pre-programmed for Sirus & everything works great including my exisitng Sirius & the Sub is working too . . . .

 

except . . . . . SYNC

 

If i re-instal the original (NO-NAV) unit SYNC comes back to life. I'm presuming that there is a communincation problem between the two (the NAV unit & SYNC) am I correct or do I have my head up my a_ _?

 

Anyone know how this is resolved? Lemme guess . . . gotta take it to FOMOCO? That's what the www.syncmyride.com "guru" told me. I have no issue with that as my dealer is kewl however I'd feel better about myself having gotten it resolved myself (with a little technical assist from the Edge forum . . . of course)

 

Thanks in advance & GREAT site!

 

Mike

I think the dealer is your only option. I have a feeling that you need to have the nav programmed to your car, not just pre-programmed.

Thanks, bbf. The service manager did call me back and said it may be possible with some module's but not all. I'll make another trip later to see if mind will work. Thanks, Ky Bob

Ky Bob, your service manager is correct. Some can be turned on, I know I can do it on mine which is an SEL. We tried to do it on a customers car on time and it was not an option. I think his was an SE but I don't remember. If you have an SE I would not get my hopes up, however it is deffently worth a try.