druck52

looking for a set of 18s or 17s without tires

I have a set of 17's, where are you located?

Hey Druck.. say, I did not respond to your actual manual steps - or try them - since my posted fix worked for me and that came before your post on the shop manual steps. You then posted your shop manual steps, which are, just so happens, similar to what I happened to do out of logical next step in trouble shooting, so I never went on to try yours as I was good to go so saw no reason to try those as well since I got mine back on track. So it was not me disregarding your posted steps as you might think (?), I just had no reason to try them - nor comment on them then - since I go mine working before your post, and they were virtually identical steps. Make sense?

 

Maybe you meant BalzedUp did not follow your shop directions since he is still having issues?

I was responding to you. I guess I missread, but I thought you had said that the problem had returned. If it is fixed, that is what matters at this point.

Hi druck. :D I respect your opinion and you may very well be correct. If he would simply show a bit of gratitude once in a while, or at least skip the complaint-fests when provided information that is meant to help, things would be fine.

I'm not saying you are wrong, just that he may be on the right track. Also I was not trying to disrespect you in any way.

But unfortunately, just as you have been severely disrespected by a few wayward members who like to insult Techs in the past (remember when we PM'd each other?), Lex has had a habit of demonstrating unnecessary ingratitude to me (at this point I will only speak for myself, not others). I have never needed or asked for his assistance, but he has taken advantage of mine in some instances.

Notice druck, that I have been very polite in speaking to you, and in describing my gripe with him. But in the past in circumstances such as this, I usually get attacked for my effort.

I know you don't always get along. I think you both try to help people out, you just go about it in different ways. I do think he could have approached the situation in a different way.

As I said druck, maybe he was on the correct path. However, it is his method that is rude and sometimes intolerable. And as you got tired when needlessly attacked in the past, I have reached that point also.

You are a helpful forum member, and I respect you for it.

And I hope your information helps too. That is all I was trying to do in the first place.

I hope it helps as well, but it seems from lex's last post that he did not follow my directions at all. And those are straight from the shop manual. Oh well. I tried.

Good luck. :beerchug:

PS - And druck, I will ask you since you are a Tech: The passage in the Owners Manual stating that "If the power liftgate is opening, the system will stop and a chime will sound 3 times when an obstacle is detected. Once the obstacle is removed, the liftgate can again be operated normally" would lead me to believe that could be another possible cause. If something is blocking the gate from fully opening (a bent lift arm perhaps), the chime will sound three times. Or possibly if a sensor is giving a false reading, the same symptoms would occur. Just Internet diagnosing, what are your thoughts?

You could very well be right, but with out looking at the vehicle in question, that would just be a guess.

Here is something for you all to try. I haven't had a vehicle come in with this complaint yet so I don't know if it will work. This is a copy from the workshop manual as per the symptom chart for this concern.

Power Liftgate Initialization Printable View (79 KB)

NOTE: The power liftgate may not operate correctly under the following conditions:

A low voltage or dead battery

A disconnected battery

Repairs/adjustments have been made to the power liftgate rod, power liftgate motor, liftgate hinges or liftgate striker

If any of these conditions has occurred, the power liftgate must be reinitialized.

NOTE: Battery power must be removed from the Liftgate/Trunk Module (LTM) for 20 seconds before the LTM will enter the initialization mode.

Disconnect the battery or remove the LTM fuse(s).

Wait 20 seconds and reconnect the battery or reinstall the LTM fuse(s).

Manually close and fully latch the power liftgate.

NOTE: Make sure the power liftgate system is turned ON in the message center before performing this step.

NOTE: If the power liftgate does not open during this step, refer to the Symptom Chart to diagnose the power liftgate for no operation.

Power open the power liftgate by using the key fob or control switch.

Once the power liftgate is fully open, close the power liftgate by using the key fob or control switch.

bbf, I know you are trying to help, but it sounds like lex was heading in the right dirrection. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the reply, I will address it more formally when I put the car in for its first service.

The parking brake shoes probably just need to be adjusted out some.

WHAT DO I DO???? :unsure:

 

I even checked Ford Parts online...Can't seem to find the steering sensor that I need.

That was not ment for you, it was ment for the guy with the problem with taking your car to a dealership. Sorry if you thought i was replying to you.

I shouldn't get involved, but I have been reading his replies and can't take all the wrong information anymore. He says fwd or awd are flawed and unsafe. The following is a quote from his link.

" In a rear-wheel drive vehicle, you can usually feel a loss of traction or the beginning of a skid. There may be no such warning in a front-wheel drive, however. Front-wheel drives do handle better in ice and snow, but they do not have flawless traction, and skids can occur unexpectedly. Don't let the better feel and handling of a front-wheel drive car cause you to drive faster than you should."

Doesn't that contradict what he has been telling us? I wonder what his reply for that will be?

I have a 07 mkx does anyone know if the 20" wheels from an 08/09 will fit. I think there exactly the same just want to make sure before I buy them. thanks

they will fit

I am curious. I went online to look at a sport. The tail lights don't seem to look different than mine, what is the difference that makes them so cool?

 

Thanks.

All the chrome bits in the normal tail lamps are black on the sport. That is the only difference. I do think they look much better though.

Do yourself a favor and NEVER, I mean NEVER have a dealership perform repairs (unless they are covered under warranty and you don't have to pay anything.) Find a good independent shop (preferably a Ford certified shop...if those exist.....I know they have Honda Certified Shops for Honda) and get them to look at it. Dealership service shops are a RIP OFF.

 

Also don't always take the dealer's word that it is not covered under warranty. Do some of your own research.

What is your problem with taking it to a dealership. What will you do when your independent shop can't fix the problem. Dealerships are not a ripoff as you say. There are good ones and bad ones sure, but there are good and bad independent shops as well. Also the dealership will tell you if it is covered or not.

You're obviously not looking hard enough.

 

At the bottom inside of one of the rear quarter panels you will find an "exhauster port" for allowing cabin air "flow-through/outflow". In the exhauster port will be a light rubber reverse airflow blocking "flap-valve". Removing that flap valve will result in somewhat freer flow of exhausting REAR airflow and that will help to alleviate some of the helicopter "noise".

 

The action of the flap valve seems to somehow re-enforce the passenger cabin's rear volume resonance effects.

And exactly how do you know that it is there. Have you taken an Edge apart? If you have then why don't you explain exactly were it is.

Poor advice, maybe even DEADLY advice.

 

The stearing wheel rotational position sensor is used by the stability control system. With a defective sensor the system may think you are trying to turn when you are not thereby throwing the vehicle out of control.

You may be completely wrong. If the sensor has on open then it is not reading at all and can not send a false signal. we do not know the exact diag though and should not coment either way.

They have fixed the problem, but the repair procedure is complicated and a lot of dealers are not capable (or willing) to perform the repair correctly. Unfortunately this gets interpreted as "Ford can't fix my problem".

 

I don't have an issue with posting repair horror stories as long as all the facts are included. But when you only post the very worst stories and you never post the successful repairs (including your own) or other facts then you're nothing but a troll with a web site.

I know they are trying to fix the problem. They have the new double seal kit out. And yes it is a hard fix. But unfortunatly only time will tell if this is perminant. The post was ment for garyedwardsmith to show that Ford's quality is just as good as any other car company and better than most.

And just to add to that, I am a Tech at a dealership and have only seen a handfull of Edge's come in for that concern. So it is not as bad as he likes to think.

These posts are a testament to Ford Quality. Enough Said

 

SMOKIN EDGE

Ford's quality is so bad, that is ranks only 1 point behind toyota. They are having problems with the seals, but are trying to fix them. This just shows that Ford's quality is really good, and Toyota's isn't as great as you might think. All manufactors run into this sort of problem. I know you won't care what the report says, but it is something to think about.

http://autos.aol.com/article/jd-power-initial-quality-2009

Is it already painted? You can pick these up for $615 shipped +$600 for matching OEM paint.

Were can you pick them up for 615?

OK...HAVING SERIOUS PROBLEM REMOVING THIS DAMN EDGE GRILL????? THESE TABS CIRCLED DO NOT WANNA MOVE.....SCARED I'M GONNA SNAP THEM??? ANY IDEAS PEOPLE??? HEAT THEM UP???

Just keep working them, but be carefull. You have to get them off. You should not need to heat them. They should come off with a little prying.

don't forget the screws on the latch

He doesn't need to remove the screws for the latch if he is just taking off the cover.

Hi,

I'm looking for help with removing the inner door panel after removing the outer door paner.

My door has some damage, and I need to get to the back of the door skin.

The inner panel seems to be mounted to the vertical window guide bars.

Has anyone had to remove the inner panel, and do you have any suggestions?

Dave B.

You have to removed the plugs to access the bolts that hold the window to the window regulator. once those are loose, raise the window and tape it up out of the way. then remove all the bolts that hold that panel on. after that lift it out at the bottom and then down. it should come out. I think you might have to remove some wiring and maybe the door handle, but i don't remember off the top of my head.

Didn't I read somewhere that water cooling was added to prevent the PTO/PTU from over-heating..??

nope, you didn't read that anywhere

There are several versions of the radio. There is one system that has no subwoofer, so I'm assuming that the radio may be different with no subwoofer connections at all, so probably they ordered the wrong model...Also they need ot be reprogrammed as well...

Just curious why you are responding to a post from over a year ago?

Okay, Mr. Edsel, how do you adjust for more braking in the rear as opposed to the fronts or vice versa ?

On new cars you don't. You would have to add a proportioning valve yourself. It does not come with one.

Got my Edge back from the dealer last week put about 100 miles on it so far. They had the engine out to install new cam phasers. They also changed the VCT solenoids. Car runs ok but now it seems I have other problems. Engine idles too low, push the gas and car puts you into the seat. Still have the ticking noise in the engine at start up. Ford says there is nothing wrong with the engine because it ticks at start up. I say there is, Chevy's dont tick, Dodge's dont tick and others that I have l driven. Spent 32 grand on this car and expected it to last 100,000 miles or more. Last Ford I ever Buy.

The tick noise is the injectors and is normal. There is nothing that can be done about that.

Sounds like your proportioning valve needs to be adjusted.

I'm curious, were do you come up with your information. I can't believe how many of your posts on here are just plain wrong. There is no proportioning valve on the edge, or any new ford for that mater. You really should not be giving out advise that is so wrong. He may have a bad caliper causing the problem or he may be hard on his brakes. The only way to know what is wrong is to have it inspected.

No offense, but I don't put much faith in the new seal kit. I hope you are right and it will be a permanent fix, but the issue has been ongoing for well over a year and they've done 5 revisions of the seal including this one. I'm sure eventually they will find a fix and maybe this is it, I'll just have to wait until it leaks again to find out, and based on my experience, that probably won't happen until December or January when it gets cold enough again. The saddest part of this whole ordeal is that I have zero confidence that my Edge is fixed(I don't have this newest seal as mine was last fixed in March). I also have lost most of my confidence in the long term reliability of the car, but I can't afford just to dump it off for something else. I'm a hardcore Ford guy(not to mention stockholder) and don't want to switch brands, but I don't really want to buy another one in the near future either.

I was just letting you know to try and help. Maybe I shouldn't have said anything.

I had the PTU leak as well on my 08 with 7500 miles on it(when it all started). Replaced the seal, then it leaked again in 2 weeks so they replaced the whole PTU. 1 monthe later it was leaking again and so they did another seal. It has now been ok for about a month and has about 9500 miles total on the car. I'm not confident that it is fixed, but will probably be OK until the weather gets cold again next winter (PTU leak problem appears to be more prevalent in cold weather areas)- luckily it will still be under warranty and hopefully they will have found a permanent fix for it by then. I really like the car, but I wonder about the long term reliability after it has been taken apart and put back together so many times, not to mention if the fluid got low at all before it was fixed.

There is a new seal kit and new procedure to perform that ford just put out. Hopefully that will help all the people that are having this problem.