druck52

* installed correctly the first time...had problems with faulty connectors on harness.

* what recommendation ? I installed the relay harness after you said I didn't need it.

* I never lied, and you said you do not need the harness but reccommended it.

* The negligence was on your part, not mine....this is why you are now sending out the right harness

* This is absolutely not the same harness at all. Does "plug and play" constitute me tapping in a capacitor on the harness since you weren't offering the correct harness when I purchased my kit.

 

I will continue to blow up your garbage kit on every car forum I can get my grubby paws on. I was willing to let this go until I read this garbage spewing from your lying fingers. I was lucky that Ford covered the repair to my SJB....very lucky ! It could have cost me $1,000 THis HID and any other will not work with "auto on" you never answered any of my questions, dodged my issues, and sent me parts to repair your garbage kit that cost you $50.00 Keep it up Todd. Why don't you post your phone number on here so your happy customers can call and thank you.

So now you admit you didn't pay $1000, you said you did pay the money. So you just proved that retro is correct and you are the one lying. This is copied from your post

"You consider that an "attack" . Geez, you don't get out much do you. The kit didn't work, it messed up my car and cost me $1,000. "

This is from the above post

"I was lucky that Ford covered the repair to my SJB....very lucky ! It could have cost me $1,000 "

Hi, this is my first post. I have been driving Ford Motor Company vehicles for the past 25 years. Currently I have a 2003 Crown Victoria. This is my Ford Motor Company vehicle #6. I have had some problems with my Crown Victoria and I am not too pleased with it. It once broken down on me while I was on vacation in Utah. My wife was very unhappy and told me not to buy another Ford Motor Company vehicle again. At that time I agreed with her. Anyhow yesterday while picking up my Crown Vic from the dealer after being serviced, I test drove an Edge Limited. I must say I was pretty impressed! The ride was quiet and solid. The styling in outstanding both interior and exterior. The engine is reasonably quiet and smooth running though I did not push it very hard while test driving (afraid to get into an accident). I like the recirculate button for the HVAC - I know this is a little thing, but it means a lot to me. I have been wanting that in my Ranger, F250, Thunderbird, Crown Victoria, Mercury Tracer, etc. for years!!! None of these Ford Motor Company vehicles had a recirculate button! I also like the Aux input jack and USB port. So overall I was impressed with the vehicle.

 

Question 1 - I live in Southern California where there is always a lot of traffic. What kind of gas mileage can you expect in an AWD Edge? I am guessing 18 mpg which would be lower than what I am currently getting on my Crown Victoria (21 mpg average)

 

Question 2 - I am think of buying an Edge SEL AWD. I don't need it fully loaded. I don't need the vista sun roof. I don't want the 20 or 22 inch rims. 18 will do for me. I have the X-plan discount. How much realistically should I expect to pay for such a vehicle?

 

Question 3 - is it expensive to insure an AWD SUV? How much more than a FWD? We have been good drivers with no accidents for the past 10 years...thankfully.

 

Question 4 - any known problems with the vehicle that I should be aware of?

 

Thanks for your inputs

I just wanted to let you know that while those vehicles did not have a recirc buttom, that is what the max a/c setting was for. max a/c was recirc and a/c was fresh air.

Not sure if that is a fact or not but my Edge is an SEL Plus which DOES have Auto Lamps. you may be right

The vehicle I was working on was an 07 SE without auto lights. There was no option to turn them on. On my 07 SEL with autolights I can go in and turn them on if I want to. I'm pretty sure other people on here have run into the same problem.

I just want to clear something up. Not all edges can have the DRL's turned on. I know because I've tried. I believe only cars with auto lamps can have them turned on. I don't know why that is or if its changed on newer models. The car I tried on was an 07 and this was back in 07. Just wanted to let you know.

I did do that few times. On one of the drives, the tech was able to hear it when it was occurring. The tech told that he is not sure what that noise is and suggested that I will be hearing noises in a brand new car unless its a $100000 Mercedes and have to live without even trying much to figure what it is. Also left the car overnight as this problem occurs more in the mornings than in the afternoon or evening, but the next day he tells me he did not hear anything. Well, my 1987 Audi never made any kind of such noises or even my Mazda. Thinking of taking it to a different dealership.

The car should not make that noise. You really need to take it to another dealership to have it looked at. That tech should be ashamed of himselft to tell you something like that.

Just wanted to check to see if anyone knows the proper size of the OEM lugs (not sure if they are standard or metric). I want to buy a nylon lined socket. Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance.

you need a 19mm socket.

Programming issue. Sounds like it toasted your trans.

It might be a programming problem. but this did not "toast" the transmission. most likely had a part failure. If the transmission did fail, it was not due to the programming.

My 08 Edge with 29,000 miles needs a new fuel pump and tank according to Ford. The dealer says that something was poured into the tank. Not covered under warrenty of course. Im finding it hard to believe that someone commited a random act of vandalism against my Edge. We are very careful about where we park.

 

Anyone else have fuel pump issues?

Just curious, but what was the concern you brought it in to the dealership for?

It looks like maybe some kind of add on alarm, maybe with a kill switch. Where did you buy the car from, Have you asked them what it is for?

I want to make 2 modifications to my 2010 Edge SE. First, I want to put in an after-market rear view mirror with compass and outside temperature indications (Cipa Model 36400). And secondly, I'd like to add oem fog lights.

 

Installing the mirror involves removing the old one and replacing it with the new, routing the wiring down the drivers side A post. Does anyone have experience removing the old mirror? From what I've read, it can be hard to do. Additionally, how is the trim over the A post best removed so that it isn't damaged?

 

As far as installing fog lights are concerned, there have been several threads about it, with the result that most think it can be done, but not sure how on the SE. I've already ordered the replacement oem headlight switch which incorporated the "fog" function and indicator. I'm hopeful that the existing wiring harness will also fit the new switch. As far as the lights themselves are concerned, it's my understanding that I only need a chromed plastic "bezel" that fits into the air dam/bumper, and the actual fog light that clips to the bezel. I have a source (other than Ford) for both. I may or may not need a new fog light wiring harness; I'll discover that when I actually look behind the air dam. If I need one, they are available at salvage yards. So my questions for installing the fog lights are:

 

- Other than the headlight switch, fog lights, bezel and possibly fog light wiring, are there any other parts I'll need? Like a relay etc?

- How do I remove the dash trim to access the headlight switch? Any particulay order of panel removal or hints to prevent damage?

- Anyone have any experience or advice on this project?

 

I'd sure appreciate any help or commentary.

 

Thanks in advance

The old mirror is a Pain to get off. I actually broke the windshield trying to get mine off. I had the insurance replace it and then installed the new mirror. I wish I could give you a tip to get it off. But all I can say is be very carefull.

Thanks Druck. What exactly is the LTM and what does the reprogram do?

Its the module that cotrols the lift gate. I'm not sure exactly what the program does. I didn't read into to that much. I was just looking for what the other poster was talking about.

What is the recall number ? When was this issued ? Do you have a TSB # ? Sorry for all the questions, just would love to have the irritating issues with this liftgate solved.

There is no recall, and I can't find any tsb related to that concern with his fix. There is a tsb for a reprogram to the LTM.

With transmissions I've dealt w/ in the past, I would disagree...but, who knows on the Edge. I'm a big do-it-youselfer and maintenance fanatic...had a Bronco w/ 340,000 miles on it before I got rid of it; 240,000 on my Explorer before I got rid of it...mechanically, both ran very well till the end, and I serviced the trannys on both yearly (changed fuild and filter on each at approx. every 25,000...cheap insurance in my opinion). There was always some 'metallic black stuff' in the pan, more-so around the magnet in the pan, and I'm certain a fair amount in the filter. I always noticed the tranny shifting smoother after I changed the filter. I can't imagine the Edge's tranny works that much differently...

 

I must say...happy with the Edge thus far (approx 3,500 miles on it), but would never had bought it if I'd known the filter is not servicable w/o removing the tranny. In my opinion, this is pi$$-poor design...could have put an external filter on if clearance/access was an issue....thank goodness the engine doesn't need to be removed to change the oil filter....

 

Druck...Thx for posting the tranny pics....where did you get those? Also, I've noticed there's a black plastic cover on the front side (area which faces the radiator) of the transaxle...would you know if the filter can be accessed through this cover?

I got them from the workshop manual. The cover on the side is for access to the valve body. unfortunatly you can not access the filter from there.

I had the same problem, and still do.. I took it to the dealership, and the service manager went for a test drive with me. He told me that when the car tries to accelerate it downshifts to go faster. C'mon man, I am a female, and I may have boobs, but that doesn't mean I don't have a brain. Downshifts to go faster? when you are already doing 50mph. He felt the slip and said it was not normal on the test drive, and then when I left the vehicle, they called and said it was shifting normally. "Unable to duplicate concern". Their standard line to get away with not fixing it.

 

I too had the double seal kit installed, after my car was bellowing smoke and stunk like burning rubber. I am getting a faint smell again. It was just done at the end of August. I had the car for 30 days and it went. I made my first payment on this heap of crap while it was in the shop, and will have to make the second payment with it in the shop again. I have made it clear to FORD that I am not going to be bringing it back 5,6,7 times. I will go directly to arbitration after the 3rd time.

 

Go get your car checked out, but if you went to the same dealership you bought it at, don't go back to them, take it to another FORD dealership, GET MULTIPLE OPINIONS....

 

GOOD LUCK!!!!

Slipping when accelerating? Not normal. Get it checked.

I know you don't want to here this, and I'm not saying you don't have other problems, but down shifting to go faster, yes even at 50 is normal. Have you taken the car to another dealership for a second opion? If there truely is a problem the dealership should have no problem with fixing it. Also have you asked to drive another edge to see if it shifts the same as yours, if it does this is normal, if it does not then you do have a problem.

This is just for you Blazed UP. Its the best I picture and explanation I can find, but I'm sure its not enough for you.

Transmission Fluid Filter

The transmission fluid in the sump area at the bottom of the transaxle case flows through a transmission fluid filter to the pump assembly. The pump is bolted to the torque converter housing and is chain driven from a sprocket that is mounted on the stator support and turned by the torque converter.

Fluid Pump and Transmission Fluid Filter Components

Item Part Number Description

1 7A098 Transmission fluid filter assembly

2 7A103 Pump assembly

3 7G249 Chain and sprocket assembly

4 7J246 Stator support assembly

5 7005 Transaxle case

6 7005 Torque converter housing

As you should be able to tell the filter is located inside the housing.

Where's those pics druck ?

Here is a pic of the bottom of the trans. Is that good enough for you?

Here is a diagram of the flow path

Wait a sec...I've not heard of this before....'case has to be removed and split'....surely this doesn't mean remove the tranny??? I've not looked that closely at the tranny yet, but I most certainly will.....I couldn't imagine getting to the trans. filter is that big an event.

believe or not, it is

He said there is no drain plug .....you say there is....someone is "100%" wrong.

Alright you got me on that. He is wrong about the drain plug, but right about the filter. At least I can admit I'm wrong.

Is he wrong to Druck ?

No, unlike you he is 100% correct, as you can see from my other post stating the same thing. And no I did not read this one first. nice try though.

Okay, So I was incorrect. I am glad that the pan actually has a drain plug.....my Mustang does not. Considering the manual says to change the trans fluid after 100,000 I will be performing this @ 50,000 with either a synthetic blend or full synthetic with an added friction modifier. Can anyone recommend a good synthetic trans fluid ? You may want to remove the pan anyway.....1.) To clean the sediment from the pan and clean the magnet that is attached to the pan..also, you may want to replace the trans fluid filter.

there is not a pan like your mustang. the plug is in the case. Also the filter can not be just replaced like old transmissions. the case has to be removed and split to change it.

You are 1000% correct. My guys at the shop could care of it. It's a really small but better than taking off the pan.

 

Thanks!!!

Your welcome.

I changed my headlights in my 2007 mkx and forgot to reconnect my air intake sensor wires, then i started it and the check engine light was on along with a pic of a wrench, i realized what the problem was and reconnected the harness and the wrench went away, but the check engine light is still on. Is there some way to reset that without going to a dealer? I remember back in the day you used to be able to turn the key back and forth three times real fast. or will the light eventually go away now that the problem is fixed? If so, when? Thanks

The only way is to disconnect the battery cables and leave them off for a few minutes. Only other way is with a scan tool. The light will turn it self off eventually. It has to see a number of drive cylces with the problem fixed before it turns off, but that can take a long time.

Drain plug.... what drain plug?

sorry, there was supposed to be pictures with that. Its on the bottom of the transmission. I can't get the picture to copy. It is on the bottom of the transmission. Sorry I can't do any better than that.

There is no drain plug for the trans. You must remove all the bolts holding the trans pan in place. It is a very messy and stinky job. Be careful and do not get any trans fluid on painted surfaces......it will take the paint right off.

There you go again with wrong information. that is not how you drain the transmission. For the original poster, here is the correct information. This is straight from the workshop manual.

Material Item Specification

MERCON® V Automatic Transmission Fluid

XT-5-QM (or XT-5-QMC) (US); CXT-5-LM12 (Canada) MERCON® V

NOTE: In order to completely clean the torque converter, this procedure needs to be carried out 3 times.

With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02.

NOTE: If an internal problem is suspected, drain the transmission fluid through a paper filter. A small amount of metal or friction particles may be found from normal wear. If an excessive amount of metal or friction material is present, the transaxle will need to be overhauled.

Remove the transmission fluid drain plug and allow the transmission fluid to drain.

Install the transmission fluid drain plug.

Tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).

Fill the transaxle with clean transmission fluid.

Start the engine and let it run for 3 minutes. Move the range selector lever into each gear position. Repeat Steps 2, 3, 4 and 5 two more times.

After the transmission fluid has been changed a total of 3 times, check the transmission fluid level for a final time, making sure that the transmission fluid is at the correct level.