surferd15

Not sure on tires but replaced front stock pads at 59k and just did rears at 66,703. I do tow alot but only drive my car 2-3 days a week and less then 7000K per year but owned it for 2 years now.

I am guessing you prob. already fixed this but here goes. You need to remove the brake caliper mount, there are two bolts in the rear they are 15mm, remove those and the brakes will be out of the way. Next remove the brake rotor, I used a rubber mallet to bang the rotor off since it was stuck. Your prob going to have to remove the hub as well to access the studs. There are 4 torx bolts in the rear they are T-60, you will also have to carefully remove the abs speed sensor this is a 8mm and it is located in the center of the hub. Once all thats undone the hub and the parking brake assembly and dust cover come out as one piece. Just remove the hub (it might be rusty and stuck on the parking brake assembly and dust cover. PB blaster, light tapping with the rubber mallet and cursing will get it out. Onces its out, you will have the whole hub assembly in your hand and then you have access to the studs. Good luck!

Looks and sounds good! What tips did you use? They look like the magnaflow 3.5 rolled angle tips: http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/shopexd.asp?zone=main&id=11068

I replaced both rear wheel bearings and knew the speed sensors usually break. I was able to remove both without breaking them. I used Moog hubs and the hole for the abs speed sensor was too small. I then took a 13/32 drill bit and carefully made the hole bigger since it is just plastic. The sensors then fit nicely. However when I took it for a test drive and stopped anything over 5 mph the ABS kicks on (there is no lights and seems like there is more noise from the abs kicking on, on the driver side). I then removed both sensors and put them back on, samething. I looked in a Chiltons repair and it said to torque the little bolts that hold the sensors to 62 ft lbs (seems like way too much). I could not find any special re-learn or any special install procedure. I tightened the bolts more and still same issue. Anyone know?? I hate to say both are bad and buy new ones. In the meantime I disconnected the driverside sensor and the ABS and TC is now disengaged but it brakes fine, just no ABS.

I got a good deal on Wagner thermoquiet prostop ceramic ones (their top of the line pad) at my local place with my discount $29, I figured they were better then advance since people complain about the brake dust. The rear akebono's were $86 local and about $60-65 online plus shipping. Thanks guys.

Time to do the rear brake pads, 66k and looks to be original pads. I have Akebonos on the front and they are awesome but pricey for the rear. Was looking for a basic pad, low dust. Looks like I might be going with the Advance house brand Ceramics, with coupon code they are $30, they are not completely dustless but are tolerable. What are you guys using?

Glad to see you got it figured out Im not on here much, but I was going to tell you its prob the brake booster going. I had the same issue replaced the booster and all is good.

Got the wheel bearing issue and was looking for a cheap place to get the LEFT hand side trailing arm assembly since this needs to be replaced along with the bearings/hub. I have found that ebay has the cheapest prices on a pair of Hubs around $126 for the pair shipped (non motorcraft brand, rather not have it anyway) but can't find a decent deal on the trailing arm. If anyone has replaced one please let me know of a place. Thanks!

I believe its the same tool a locksmith would use. Each car has a code for the key, and learns that key. I have one key, and want another. This tool pulls the code from the car odb port and lets you reprogram the keys to the car. A dealer or locksmith charges around $ 165 for this programming, key cut and key.

Has anyone tried a key programmer? Ebay has some and I was interested in purchasing one and doing my car and others. No one wants to pay $165 for a key. I figured I can buy the key, get it cut and program it. Then rent the unit out for a resonable price and a deposit. Thoughts?

Yes it appears its the same as the rear passenger door on the drivers side. Yes they are plastic not chrome. I also thought it was metal but its a Ford so def. Plastic and its a Ford part # on the back. Their very easy to change, one screw in the door and its loose.

My key fob just started working again, Im very happy! As for the keyhole, looks like the plastic cover was replaced with a non key hole one. I did locate the lock cylinder behind it after I removed it. Its looks clean so Ill leave it, and if it happens again or my car battery dies Ill just drill a hole in the plastic cover or break it off, no biggie

Guys I am not an idiot...there is not a keyhole not sure why but its not there!

Update, locksmith came and unlocked the car. I reprogrammed the fob and it honks the horn when I push the buttons and program it, but after the procedure it doesn't work. I take out the battery and do the same process and it doesn't honk or recognize the key fob-so I know he battery and such are good. I called locksmiths to make a copy of the key and transponder and its like $165! Anyone else have a new transponder and key made?

Its the correct battery and installed correctly, and tested good. I only have one Fob got the car used. I went to the Ford dealer and they stated they couldn't look up the code for the keypad so I was forced to call a Tow truck to unlock the vehicle. I'm not sure why the fob stopped working. I am going try to reprogram it and see what happens..

So I replaced the battery in my key fob for my 2008 Lincoln MKX and now the remote is not working, no big deal I'll try and reprogram it but wait there's no key hole to get in the car!! I do not know the lock code for the door keypad. I guess the only thing left to do is get someone to take me to the Ford dealer to see if they can look up my keypad code and then I can get in the car and try to repogram the fob. Anyone know any tricks?

I just did brakes on my 08 MKX, I did new front rotors (autozone brand) Akebono Pads and then my booster went out. I installed a new one and bleed the system twice and damn my brakes are touchy like a Honda Accord coupe, in fact it feels like it stops better then the coupe. I am very very happy with the brake system and it made a world of difference!!! No mushy feel at all. You might want to look into either bleeding the brakes and replacing fluid or in fact you might have a bad booster like a lot of us. My theory is the boosters are defective from the factory causing everyone to hate the brakes on their MKXs and Edges. Sure you can change brakes lines but is that really the solution to the problem, or just masking the overall problem?

Just did my brake booster and I must say the car brakes awesome now! Job didn't take that long and was pretty easy. No mushy pedal feel, immediate braking, brakes like a car!! I bet that the boosters from the factory have a defect and this leads to everyone complaining about the brakes. I did the front rotors and put on Advance Auto (wearever) rotors, and the expensive Akebono pads, put in all new fluid. If anyone needs a brake booster I found a cheap place located in Tampa Florida, I don't want to post the name-- message me if you want it. Im not affiliated with them but thier prices are the cheapest I found!! I got a Motorcraft brake booster for $71.95 and no need to return the core. Very happy now with the car!

Just did my front brakes-new rotors and pads. Well my brakes now have no power assist at all. My booster hisses even when I get in the car and just start it I hear it hissing. If I push really hard it will whistle. I bled the brakes multiple times, feel that its the booster. Once in a while I will have power assist but other times its a hard pedal and takes alot of force of my foot/leg to stop the car. Did you guys use a Motorcraft one or the Cardone branded one? The motorcraft one is cheaper but I don't want to have the same problem in the future, oh and the car only has 55k on it...Thanks

I have a 2008 Lincoln Special Edition with 20" wheels and had the same problem. I ordered the FWD rotors, since my car is FWD. I put the rotors on and they looked too small. I then measured the old ones and they are 12.6 and the ones that were too small are 11.6. Lucy by some chance an Advance auto parts by me had two in stock. I returned the other ones. Not sure why maybe the 20" wheels, I was thinking because of the special edition package on mine, but yours is a limited so the wheels make more sense.