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The perfect piece being the AC Epicenter Plus. You can take the high level inputs going to the sub directly into the Epicenter and keep the factory amp intact for the other speakers. With the Epicenter you can then tweak the bass response coming from the factory signal, that’s exactly what it’s designed to do. I think the sub channel has an active LPF and the response of the driver dictates how low it can play. That coupled with the bass roll off at higher volumes cripples the bass response of the factory sub.

That is the perfect piece to add for what you are trying to achieve. Not sure what you mean by the signal being shaped for the 8” though.

That is definitely a different system. I’ve redone mine quite a few times so here are some tips you may find helpful. -Mounting the front xovers in the rear will be ideal. The F02 harness comes with an additional harness that attaches to where the output from the factory amp was so there is no splicing. -The rears you may want to put in the rear door panels. It is extremely difficult to get wires through the doors because of the molex plug. It’s possible, but it’s a pain! -Those Hertz MP 25.3 are amazing tweeters. I prefer soft dome over metal ones, unless they are Beryllium, but that’s me. Sounds like you will be running those active so make sure you set your HPF to at least 2.5KHz with a minimum slope of 12dB so you are at 2x FS. -I would also suggest a bit of sound dampening for the doors. You don’t need to get crazy with it but it definitely helps. That coupled with the fast rings makes good speakers sound awesome. Have fun fun with your install and keep posting your progress✌️

If you are looking to add an amp to the Sony Premium system in a Limited, you cannot tie into the wires at the back of the HU without some FORSCAN mods. Reason being is that it is a fixed voltage out of the HU to the factory amp. You want a variable voltage to tap into so as the volume goes up, the voltage through the RCA to your amp goes up. The wires out of the HU are just left, right, and data bus wires; the factory amp does the rest as far as front, rear, etc. Are you looking to just add a sub?

Set up your system correct and I guarantee you will not miss the speakers in the d pillars. Also good you deleted the center, that speaker is garbage in the Sony system. Once you get your gear installed and get rid of the crappy, muddy Sony sound you will be more than pleased. ✌️

I installed these on my fronts and have zero complaints. Quality made product, good customer service, and available through Amazon Prime. Getting ready to install the rears in a few weeks.

The front tweeters are on dedicated channels because they are actively crossed over at the factory amp. This also allows for tweeter attenuation in the factory DSP so they they are not overpowering the other speakers. (Tweeters usually have a high sensitivity and don’t require much power.) Since you are going the DSP route, I would highly recommend keeping the tweeters on their own channel. Passive crossovers have limited levels of tweeter attenuation and if the lowest is too loud, you’re stuck. With the DSP, you can EQ each speaker to sound the same, set the crossovers for optimal sound, and set time alignment so the sound from the tweeter and mid reach your ear at the same time. This allows for better sound quality if that’s you’re end goal. Skip the rear pillar, the rear coaxials will provide plenty rear fill when powered by that Kenwood.

The 2014 Edge Limited is a pain to work with, just a heads up. There are no harnesses to bypass the factory amp and the data line needs to be intact due to the way the controls are integrated into the radio. If you just want louder, you can try a set of lower impedance speakers such as the Infinity Kappa 682.11. They are 2 Ohm and are budget friendly. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_10868211CF/Infinity-Kappa-682-11cf.html?tp=93&awkw=75640566745&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=47624563105&awdv=t&awug=9015272&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-cH_5eDl2gIVW7jACh0XwwwYEAQYASABEgJocvD_BwE Adding an amp is a bit more work and requires cutting factory wires but is worth it. This applies if you are happy with the sound and just want it louder. Rockford Power series speakers are excellent loudspeakers and many 4 channel amps have speaker level inputs. I chose to go the DSP route because I hated the muddy sound the Sony Premium system produced.

This is what I used for my 2014, and there was still a bit of room available to go a bit deeper. You dont want to got to deep though as to leave some room between the magnet and back of the box. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-WXbLwKiPwlO/p_2064CWRT81/Kicker-40CWRT81.html As far as shallow mount 8 subs go, this Kicker is one of the best sounding, and can handle more power if your going to use a different amp than factory. I originally had it hooked up to the factory one because the factory sub is a DVC 1ohm sub so it was plug in play basically. I later added a separate amp for it (closer to the 300 rms rating of the sub) and for an 8 it sounded damn good. The sub I linked above is no longer available at Crutchfield but the newer model is similar in size and would still fit well in my 2014. Im sure the stock sub is the same size in 2015-17 models and the volume of the sub box is also similar in size.

That's a rough route to go. I looked into a dash kit when I decided to upgrade the audio but didn't like what was available. I have the 8" screen MFT with the HVAC and heated seats controls on screen. For me, costing out the: HU, dash kit, Maestro/iDataLink, adapter harnesses, back-up camera, and microphone was way too much money. I was able to get two amps, four coaxial door speakers, and a sub for less. My end goal was better sound and I am OK with the look/function of the factory HU. Your situation may be different in that regard though. The quality of the signal from an aftermarket HU would not be higher than that from the lc7i. It is a powered LOC as opposed to a passive one with capacitors.

I have the exact same speakers installed in my front doors. I used the lc7i to get RCAs to my amp. The speakers themselves are what I found are "punchy" due to their sensitivity levels and frequently response. I used the crossover on my amp to take some of the bass out. The speakers just hooked to the factory amp were punchy. I tried bass blockers (trying to avoid having to hook up an amp just for the crossover) but didn't like the sound. Amped up they sound amazing.

I have mine mounted where the factory sub was. Prior to that, when I was using the factory sub, I had it mounted to a board that sat next to the spare tire (in the plastic storage things). I used an Audiocontrol lc7i for my LOC. It can generate a remote turn on for your amps.

@ChuckNJ Did you run new speaker wire to the door speakers or just use the factory ones? I know that the door molex is an absolute nightmare to run new wire thru as I learned from my Mariner. Thanks!

Thanks. Went with Sunset Metallic, has a very different appealing look to it. As far as the tint I'm looking to get close to matching the privacy glass so maybe 30% or so. I have to see what it looks like first. Went with the 2WD this time because AWD for me is overkill. I live in northern Ohio, we get plenty of snow and FWD for a vehicle with this weight is ample for me. Last winter was a doozy and I think the 4WD kicked in 3 times.

Got a 2014 Edge Limited about a week ago. 2WD with the 20" Chrome clad wheels and the driver entry package. This vehicle is amazing. My old ride was a 09 Mercury Mariner AWD. Been a lurker for a few weeks and read some great reviews and got good tips from here so decided to become official. The two things I am looking to do first are upgrade/enhance the sound system a bit and tint the front windows. This is my first brand new vehicle and look forward to many years of enjoyment.