enigma-2

2 hours ago, 1004ron said:

Also, got to use the new great chuck that I installed on my tire inflator.

Looks like a good quality valve. Wonder why they state that it's not supposed to be connected to an air compressor..? 

Daughter called me yesterday, needed help to put new wiper blades on her 13 Escape. Ol' dad ran over to show her how simple it is.

Who in the hell designed the wiper blades on the Escorts...???? Evil bastard sitting at the back of the office, pissed off over being passed over and forced to design wiper blades, snickering quietly while he thought of all the helpess suckers who are trying to figure out the Escort's reversed informalflummox blade adapter. 

Blades came with five adapters and instructions written in Pig Latin. Oh sure, there were pictures, but nothing that matched the five adapters. Took 20 minutes..! 

OK, finally figured it out, simple when you get the right adapter, and connected to the arm properly (can connect in more than one way.)

So next we check her tires. I drug out my 20 volt Dewalt air compressor that I carry on my aft storage compartment. Made the job easy. After she finished the four tires, I told her she still had one to go. She argued that she did all four, I smiled and kept saying one more. Then a small light bulb lit and she figured it out. We checked the spare and, .... 5 psi. Never been checked since it was put in the car at the factory. Even Ford dealer wasn't checking it. It pumped to 60 psi and held, so all good. 

Think everyone forgets the spare. Out of sight, out of mind.

Every tire can lose 5 psi a year, even if it's not used. (Especially if it's pumped to 60 psi to begin with.)

I checked mine last year, 5 psi. Used the Craftsman compressor and couldn't get it over 12 psi. Looked closer and discovered that the fill valve had dry rotted and cracked. Took it to Ford to get a new tire valve installed, and was told that no one ever brought in a spare to a new valve before. (At least they couldn't remember anyone asking for this.) "No one ever checks their spare".

Ask HAZ (on this board) if he'll post a copy of the 2007 and the 2013 wiring. Should be simple after checking the wiring schematics. (He's been a lifesaver to dozens in this forum with service information.)

On 7/30/2022 at 7:38 PM, Davidoo said:

 What a shame they are cutting out parts.  I can't imagine what they will leave off of the 23s.

Rear seats were optional on the 23. (Had to by the optional passenger comfort option. However that package also came with rear seat,  color coordinated, cup holders.) 😉

Does the interior lights dim and go off when opening & closing the drivers door? (Thinking one possibility may be the drivers door closed switch had failed open and either disconnected, or had failed closed.)

Believe both doors are wired in parallel. Opening either should kill the audio control unit. 

Think the OP just wanted to eliminate the hands-free operation. Disabling the hatch also turns off other power opening functions. (Think it does, never tried it on mine.)

If you want a Ford Edge with all the goodies, ya gotta by a Lincoln. 🥴

Never used it on my 2009 MKX. Not even once ...... 😊

You can buy a printed version on Ebay for $70. (They are also selling complete packages with case and all literature. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/165220348427?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=8E_DSWquS-q&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

On 12/20/2023 at 1:14 PM, AZ Shiflett said:

Any suggestions which dashcam to buy and how/where to mount and power it?

Everyone has their favorites, all depends on what you want in your finished installation. I'd recommend you start by reading this article from Car & Driver Magazine on dash cams, 2024. 

https://www.caranddriver.com/car-accessories/g46063800/best-dash-cams-tested/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=arb_ga_cd_md_bm_comm_org_us_g46063800&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwrvyxBhAbEiwAEg_KgjO2U3L-obq75WsecUnPMW88xk4Gn47lZvksEmgrY4C2V4v30UZnThoCCU0QAvD_BwE

As for mounting, I've found that a mirror mount is superior to the suction cup mounts (they all fall, no matter how well their installed.)

Example:

https://rammount.com/collections/car-truck-ford-edge

For wiring, I'd recommend using a quality wire harness plugged into your rear view mirror connector. Shortens installation to a couple of minutes and turns the camera off when the timed circuit turns off (or door opened.)

For example:

Dongar Dashcam Power Adapter (5-pin Type F) for Select Ford Vehicles. Compatible with Mach-E, Bronco Sport, Explorer and More. Built-in USB Power Source, Connects to Rearview Mirror, Easy to Install

https://a.co/d/5aj6IQ3

Simple. Don't drive over 80.

(groan)

Seriously, could be lots of things. Either buy an inexpensive code reader of go to one of the auto parts store and have the code(s) read. That's your starting point.

Forgot to mention I also carry a Dewalt inflator. Much faster than those small compressors and battery operated. Usually carry a 5ah battery as that's more than enough to inflate a dozen tires.

Jumper battery is a GooLoo 20,800 mah unit. Holds charge for over a  year if not used. 

Depend on how fast you were moving. I accidentally had the liftgate up and pulled into the garage. Top hit the bottom of the garage door. I was moving really slow and it didnt hurt the liftgate at all. (Made a hell of a thunk however.) 

If you hit a concrete wall, if it were still opening, I'd imagine the hatch would simply reverse when the hatch realized there was an object present. May scratch the paint however.

To make it manual, you can just turn off the automatic function. On mine (Lincoln MKX), there's an on/off setting in the information center. When turned off, it must be  opened and closed manually.

On 5/5/2024 at 11:52 AM, garycrist said:

A 4 way and jumper cables in the trunk just for back up.

I completely forgot about the 4-way. Used to carry one. Great piece of useful equipment. (Still carry a jumper battery to this day in liew of cables.)

Gotta use care nowadays; a 4-way has an entirely different meaning than it did years ago.  Wuoo wuoo..!

Only thing I can think of that's unique to this door is the specific door open circuit. 

1. Does your car have an illuminated scuff sill plate on passenger side?

Opening passenger door triggers interior lighting which stays on for a while. While opening drivers door also triggers lights, if you bought the car used, a former owner (or dealer) may have disconnected the druvers door switch because it was bad.

2. Does opening drivers door trigger interior lighting?

3. Any electrical modifications to your car? Any at all?

4. Did you check the wire bundle passing from the car frane into the door for frayed insulation ?

From page 183 of the the 2013 owners manual:

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS WARNING: Do not overfill the fuel tank. The pressure in an overfilled tank may cause leakage and lead to fuel spray and fire.

From page 189:

Allow no more than two automatic click–offs when filling.

Never overfill the tank when refilling. Just fill the tank until the pump clicks off. If you overfill your tank, it can cover the vapor intake hole with liquid gas, which can then be sucked into the charcoal canister. 

.... changing the floor mounted headlight switch, filing the point set flat then setting the gap on the high spot of the distributor cam, setting the choke before cranking, checking the oil & antifreeze level and tire pressure evey time you when get gas, checking the water level in the battery .....

On 3/25/2024 at 3:27 PM, garycrist said:

We put that into a Burgundy Olds 98 with crushed velvet seats. What a living room. You

could do burn-out with the thing!

I used to run around with a guy on high school in my junior & senior years (64/65). He had a 58 Olds. Cherry. You can do a lot more than burn outs in that monster. Girls loved it..!

(I had a 56 Ford Vicky. Not cherry, but it ran. Sort of.)

Post jogged my memory, been a year. (I use a label maker and put the date of cabin air filter on inside of glove box as I tend to forget when last changed. Of course I forget to check the label as I rarely open the glove box. sigh.)

So I ordered a new filter and installed it. Use Motorcraft as they use a two layer filter, better for pollen and little stuff. Plus I spray it with a spray that causes the filter to turn into an electrostatic filter. (Wife has allergies & is sensitive to pollen.) Used to use charcoal filters with coconut fiber, but found it failed to filter smoke (fall, burning leaves). 

Anyway, only took two minutes. On the 09 MKX, open cover, unhook tension string, lift glove box out of opening (tilt and it lifts right out), and pop open the filter door. (Hardest part is getting that little tension string off and on.)

Phew, thank goodness that's over with. Time to grab a sandwich and watch the latest episode of Gunsmoke.  Retirement is hell. 

Shouldn't have any problems.  Besides, it's just an AM/FM antenna, no one listens to that anyways. (evil snicker).

The little bump at  the back on the hatch is the navigation/GPS and Sirus unit. 

Have an 09 MKX, little "whip"  antenna at front, BAMR.

I wash the car in a local car wash every week (in the winter, get the salt off.) Ultimate wash; nothing but the best for "sweet pee".

Brushes, rug-type strips dragging across the top, spinning roller brushes, huge blowers to dry. Never had a problem. (Well once, ripped off the drivers wiper blade. Needed new blades anyways.) The side brushes used to fold the side mirrors in, but they adjusted the pressure and no more probs.

For whatever it's worth, the antenna is easy to replace, just screws off. <$20 oem on Amazon. 

Whoever told you the remove it before a car wash doesn't know what he's talking about. 

Is there enough airflow in such a small space?

Often times putting an electronic component in a small compartment will result in a high heat condition, shortening its life. 

While Sync is calling home and reporting its nav settings, I don't see this as a biggie. 

Reason I wrote about this was the amount of personal information Online was passing and getting back to the woman's insurance company. 

I get monthly updates from Google showing where I've been traveled in the previous month. Shows my travels on Google maps, in detail.

By itself its no big deal, but ..... who else is seeing this? Law enforcement can get access (not that I would care), just that "big brother" is always watching. 

What exactly is the Continental doing?

If one car triggers the homelink opener ok, it can only be the visor on the Continental. Have you tried reprogramming it? (Have to program both cars at same time.)

On 4/8/2024 at 3:20 PM, Tim W. AZ said:

 I have SYNC 3 with Nav, so as long as my driving isn't being tracked, I'm not worried about them knowing where I go, I have nothing to hide. In the event of a collision, isn't there an internal devise that records speed, braking, steering et al. Like as already stated, my iPhone is tracking more than my car.

Ah yes Grasshopper, Sync 3 does transmit your nav information back to Ford. The information I posted above came directly off the Ford website. (But the woman in the story was being tracked by her OnStar account, and we don't have OnStar. Yet.)

As for the black box, it's located inside the Airbag Control Module. This is usually located under the center instrument stack and works with the PCM to detect what's going on during a very short periods of time, in ten thousandths of one second or shorter.

If the data being given to the ACM, with its own accelerometer, wakes up the algorithm inside the ACM and says “something very bad is happening!” Then pop goes the airbag and the Event Data Recorder starts recording all kinds of information in the form of hexadecimal data (code).

This data can only be read by manufacturers, law enforcement, insurance companies, private collision investigators and their lawyer clients. You need special equipment to access and download the EDR.

Ford runs Bosh CDR hardware.