enigma-2

Hard to tell, but based on the fact that it only occurs in park or neutral, think I'd suspect the torque converter. Broken fin(s) or stator.(?)

Looking at the 2013 owners manual, its recommends 150,000 miles, unless you tow a trailer or do a lot of slow driving or idling, in which the recommend every 30,000 miles.

Personally, I use every 60,000 miles.

@Palladini what exactly did the mechanic do? Was this Ford dealership or independent? Does this happen only a certain times, such as when it rains, or just occasionally? If when it rains, after it sits outside or when driving? If sitting outside, is car parked at an angle when it happens? (Some cars leak when parked front facing up, but not when rear facing up.)

Believe you have a 2015, possible causes on passenger side include a leaking heater core, clogged AC drain and external water leak around door hinge. Coolant has smell, clogged AC drain, water smells musty. If external leak, dealer can fix permanently and Ford pays. 

Try resetting the module.

You probably have a struck latch or bad switch.

This is how the switch is relaced at the dealer

This might be faster

These past problems on the 2015 come to mind.

(1) a leak in the A-pillar base. This happens where the door hinges are mounted, can fill with water due to missing seam sealer.

If you pop the hood, look directly behind the passenger's hood hinge top bolt area. you'll see a metal seam with a gap. If this is the problem,  take it to your dealer and thell seal the seam for free (known problem.)

(2) a clogged evaporator drain. Drain cligs and the condensation catch pan overflows. (I doubt this is your case as its rain related.)

(3) or a damaged door seal. Check your weatherstripping around the top of the passenger doors.

Also been discussed here when the BAMR was leaking. 

About s grand. Half is labor, half parts. You'll need special tools and some technical knowledge.

If you do it your self, don't forget to change out the Schrader valves, and put dye into the system. 

If it happened while driving, you may be able to claim on your comprehensive policy.

Did you program it?

I get this occasionally on my MKX.

The reason is, is downloading a Sirus update. Takes a few minutes and the ACM is unavailable during this time. Only happens right after a start, never while driving.

If this is what's happening in your case, look on the display for "updating" or "subscription update" or some, such verbiage.

On mine, its in small letters that blend into the background of the screen; easy to miss.

On 3/21/2025 at 9:12 AM, ebodell67 said:

Not sure, I have not priced 20" tires (never owned anything with them) so not sure what that cost would be.

TireRack has new P245/50R20  ADVANTA SVT-01 tires starting at $145 ea.

Great news. At least its working again. According to Ford, you should be able to update just by swiping down from the top of the screen. 

1 hour ago, nomi said:

@smcmurray I don't think its fuel pump pressurize the system issue because my ford edge starts perfectly fine in the morning. it hard starts after parked for ~45 minutes.

Ever consider changing the purge valve?

Looking up the U3000:49ab code indicates the ABS module's internal memory or its processing capabilities are not functioning correctly. 

The the U3000 part indicates a control module issue. The 49 signifies an internal failure.

Could also be related to a low voltage to the module. 

As you're also getting a p193c:00-6c code, first check your battery.

16 hours ago, 1004ron said:

I haven't rotated tires for quite some time and this past weekend I notice wear in the inboard edge of both front tires - other than that all four are wearing very evenly.

See photos of the right front wheel.

 

What's your thoughts on the cause?

How's your ball joints? Other thoughts include control arm bushings & driving on low tire pressure.

And as you mentioned, rotate your tires more often.

To reset the liftgate actuator  disconnect the battery for 20 seconds, then reconnect it.

Then manually close and fully latch the liftgate.

Then power open the liftgate using the remote key. 

Getting confused with all of this. Ok, they worked during the tape on test. Then, after you reset to system they are no longer recognized. 

Almost seems as if the module is no longer programmed for the two side sensors. 

Other than that, something went wrong with the harness you made.

On 4/16/2025 at 6:18 PM, Wubster100 said:

This happened when I rebooted the modules.

Hold on, that's a big clue.

If the sensors worked when first tested, they may have been using the old sensor data, still  encoded in the module.

After rebooting, the module reread the sensors, and the new sensors were reread and the module turned off their inputs (believing they were generating bad data.) 

Try switching sensors, then reseting the circuit.

The old sensors "shoud" be read as good and work in their new positions. But the new sensors, now relocated to their new positions, should get locked out.

If this test works, it would indicate that you may have bought the wrong sensors, or  Chinese aftermarket. (Arrruggg)

My money would be on the  connectors. (They worked when you tested them, you tried other, know good sensors, so I'd assume there's a problem in the connection. Look for green crusties or dirt.)

I assume the other sensors at the rear work normally?)

Doubt it will do any good, but wouldn't hurt to reset the system. On your info screen, in reverse, turn off the backup sensors. Put in drive, then back in reverse and turn the sensors back on. 

.

 @Wubster100

You ever replaced the shocks or struts on your 07? I've replaced to shocks around 120k, but not the struts. Didn't really notice much difference. 140k miles. Wonder if replacing the struts would improve Ride quality? Ride is still smooth and Ford told me the struts are still good.

Ride is comfy, but no where as good as my 2004 Sable. Now that, was a smooth, comfortable ride. Best car I ever owned. 

Aren't you talking about the transmission cooler?

This guy walks through how he lines up the phasers & crank. May want to watch it all the say through. (42 minutes.)

Couple of ideas where the vent isn't blocked.

https://www.amazon.com/Holder-Accessories-2015-2024-iPhone-Smartphones/dp/B0DJP5DBH4/ref=asc_df_B0DJP5DBH4?mcid=f4bd478cc13e3211a2e3d201c9a80d40&hvocijid=11554450677427836686-B0DJP5DBH4-&hvexpln=73&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=721245378154&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11554450677427836686&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016241&hvtargid=pla-2281435177618&psc=1

https://www.proclipusa.com/products/241502-proclip-center-mount-ford-f250-350-450-550-super-duty-2017-20xx-ford-expedition-2018-2020?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2N2_BhCAARIsAK4pEkWisRlxppcIaJguP90xu8FUd13DHBVnwJygS0pmszvRwvsHCnjI_1YaAgrfEALw_wcB

Did you check to see if the 2.0.10 version was automatically installed on your car? Maybe your car no longer needs the update and the site recognized this.

On 4/7/2025 at 9:05 AM, Wubster100 said:

Welcome to the forum @Skiples

 

You cannot just update SYNC 4 similar SYNC 3. To manually update SYNC 4, you must use FDRS. 

Ford Diagnostic & Repair System? 

Cant you just do it through the Sync 4 system? 

->Settings-> General-> Automatic Updates-> Scan for Update Now

.

As this is  only happening with the front, left brake, it really sounds like the brake fluid is flowing into the caliper (brakes applied) but unable to completely flow out; until it slowly bleeds off when sitting. 

If so, I'd suspect a sticking brake caliper piston, kink in the brake hose, caliper pins needing greasing or air in caliper.