enigma-2

Are there stats on how many are registered and how many are still active (as in posting in the last two years)?

We were on a toll interstate yesterday, doing about 80 and a moderate shimmy started. At first I suspected I threw a wheel weight or a tire had lost air (no instrument warning). No steering wheel shimmy. Pulled into the next available service center, got out and checked all tires. Nothing. Started out again and ... all good. Gone! Came back in about 15 minutes but only just slight. However, as we drove on, there was a thump, thump, thump sound. Then it got louder. A lot louder. Rolled down my window and it definitely sounded like it was coming from the drivers front. (This was now on a limited access highway.) We stopped at a red light, and after driving on green light, it was gone. Dead quiet. Until we hit ~40 mph. Got louder as we went faster. Slowed to another light but the sound persisted but got quieter until we stopped. When we started up again ... gone, until we hit 40-45 mph. (The thump, thump, thump sound is similar to a tire that has a flat spot and is directly related to speed.) Weird how it disappears, get louder and quieter. Nothing under 40 should rule out a tire, and then nothing until after the car went faster than 40 then stays until I come to a stop. Then quiet again. 40-45 triggers the thump, thump, thump. (Mild vibration comes with it, seems to come from rear). Thinking it could be a CV joint, but ??? Any ideas? I just made an appointment at Lincoln dealer for next (not this) Friday. Will post what they find.

If you have a black screen and no audio,, the APIM has failed (very common on the 2011 & 2012 model years). Make certain your getting a non doa on the junk yard unit as very prone to failure. The module ID is on a label on the back of the module. Once you pull the unit out, the id sticker is on the module. You can just pull the unit out and take it to the junkyard. But, I <think> that the replacement unit will need to be programmed. There are also websites that offer replacements (preprogrammed with your VIN) that also include navigation. $500 for non-nav, $600 for nav, $750 for nav and card. But its plug-n-play and your paying for convenience. https://www.4dtech.com/replacement-sync-2-module-apim-myford-touch/

If this just started lately, it very well could be related to a weak vehicle battery. How old is your battery? If it's the original, it's probably at end of life. Also could try a reset. Disconnect the negative battery terminal for 5 minutes, then replace. Resets all of the cars logical modules (including the BCM and SJB).

So when you hit lock button on your FOB twice, just the back doors lock, is that right? Couple of thoughts (Before you do this, have your key FOB in your hand.) Press 7/8 & 9/0 on the door key code strip at the same time. Do all doors lock? (All doors shut, key not in ignition). Unlocking requires you enter your 5-digit code and hit 3/4 button. When you press your lock button on the FOB remote, do the turn signals flash? When you press the unlock button does the puddle lamps come on and drivers door unlock. Try locking and unlocking the drivers door with the key. When unlocking the drivers door (with a key) triggers a reset. Then try all the ways to lock and unlock the doors again. Do the front doors lock while sitting in drivers seat and using the lock buttons on the door inner panel? Does autolock automatically lock all doors when you start to drive fwd and hit 10 mph? (Think its 10, maybe 15 or 20, but all doors should lock).

Well there's certainly no problem in changing your oil at those intervals, only in modifying the factory software. The 1yr or 10k interval is a maximum. Granted, changing the intervol to a shorter duration doesn't seem like it could cause an enging problem, but with all the inputs that are involved, who's to say that it doesn't muck things up. (It's not just a milage counter, it watches your driving habits and whatever.) We all understand that using FORScan can result in inducing problems. (I'm currently researching a modification on my mkx). If I do make the change, just adding a rear camera, could cancel my extended warranty. (Per the tech at my local Ford garage). Any firmware modification allows Ford to claim that the modification caused problems unforseen and their ruling is final. This is the official, written opinion that Ford publishes: "The installation or use of a non-Ford Motor Company part (other than a certified emissions part) or any part (Ford or non-Ford) designed for off-road use only installed after the vehicle leaves the control of Ford Motor Company, if the installed part fails or causes a Ford part to fail. Examples include, but are not limited to lift kits, oversized tires, roll bars, cellular phones, alarm systems, automatic starting systems and performance-enhancing powertrain components or software and performance ‘‘chips’’"

You might calmly state that Car and Driver does NOT list the Ford Edge as a "soccer mom" car, but as one of the best of the 2-row SUV. Calmly ask if the really think it looks anything like a minivan? No? Station wagon? No? Ask if you look like a soccer mom? No? Then calmy ask what kind of pile of junk are they driving. When they tell you, look unimpressed and say ....... "oh". Then smile. Kindly like. https://www.caranddriver.com/research/a31609316/mom-car/ Car and Driver Magazine lists the Chevrolet Traverse, Chrysler Pacifica, Dodge Durango, FIAT 500L, Subaru Outback & Volvo V90 as "⚽️ soccer mom" cars.

????? 😁👍

Good way to void your warranty.

Ohhhhhhh, bullllllll puckyyyyyyyyy. How long does it take to unscrew an inflator valve? 10- seconds? And with the valve out, how long does the air take to expell? 5- seconds? (snort)! For $200 do they do the spare as well? (grunt)(grunt)(grunt) Go to Costco and do it yourself.

I had both infant and young man seats in back seat of my 09 mkx. When I put them in, I put my knee into them to make certain they were pressed deep into the seats so there was no squirm. (Leather seats). The impressions left behind do go away in time. Possibly the cars you seen had just come to market. Think it has if someone sits on the seat helps to relieve to lines and straighten them out. I suppose you could put a blanket down on the back seat to provide some protection. Should provide enough base to spread out the load. Just make certain the seat is pressed down hard to prevent any movement. BTW, I used a seat belt extender on the back seat. Made it easier when connecting seat belts, when mom and dad were riding in back seat. (Really gets tight when seat is in). The extenders are FREE at your local dealer. (There are two styles, front seats use different connectors than the back seat.) Talk to your parts dept. as the usually don't stock lots of these. You can get one free one for each seat position. I told dealer I wanted three for back seat and he asked why. Said to install car seat and he asked if parents were heavy set. Thought for a second and said yes. He said needed to hear that to qualify for free. I still have two in the back seat. Think they're around 5-6" long. Other than that, common sense on the design of the seat. In both cases I bought the best available at the time. Top one is like the one I bought (no longer sold), bottom is the actual one). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019EGMGR0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_7TGJVMAYCAJ3TK01ADTZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBYAF6S/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_2KXXB8CN16P72974XWH8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Couple of thoughts, have you load tested your battery for CCA capacity? Wierd problems like this are often traced to a weak battery. Also could try resetting the HVAC module. Process: With the doors closed locate the climate control power button on the center dash and depress it simultaneously with the Edge's defrost button. Hold for a few seconds and release. Press the climate control power button one more time and the HVAC should be reset.

Any chance both bulbs may have burn out? (Original, how old)? Any modifications to the car?

Perhaps the module and harness was sold separately. If not contact the manufacturer/ seller and ask for the missing parts. If they came from China, sol.

NHTSA Recall ID Number :21T011 Synopsis :Hankook Tire America Corp. (Hankook) is recalling certain Kinergy GT (H436) tires, size 235/50R19H with DOT code 0521. The tires may have been manufactured with an insufficient amount of curative agent, which could cause tread separation. Tread separation can result in tire failure and a loss of vehicle control, increasing the risk of a crash. Dealers and authorized independent service centers will replace the affected tires, free of charge. Owner notification letters are expected to be mailed July 29, 2021. Owners may contact Hankook customer service at 1-800-426-5665.

Dealer can determine what keys are required by running your VIN. You will also need to have the dealer cut and program the keys as they will need to hook up a computer to program both keys. A 3-button key opens the doors and has a red key for panic. A 4-button key also has a button to open the rear hatch. Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-4-Button-Remote-Key-CWTWB1U793-80-Bit-SA-FORD-OEM-Chip-4D63-A-USA-Seller-/233642665001?mkcid=16&amp;mkevt=1&amp;_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&amp;mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 But talk to your dealer FIRST. Some dealers will refuse to program if you don't buy the keys from them. (Now you can also have a local locksmith cut the keys and program the keys into the body control module.

Well, one way would be to install the PCM, drive the car to the lot, remove the PCM and take it back to another vehicle and do the same thing. (I wasn't able to find out what chips exactly, looks like it involves just about all of them - in varying degrees). Doubt that the chip manufacturers are building just the chips that go in the PCM modules and ignoring the rest. Pretty much an all-or-nothing product line. (Chips for radios and the like would be sourced differently of course. I do know that the F150's are getting the chips, when they do come in. I agree with Biden's plan to create investment for chip manufacturers here in the states. We're too dependent on foreign (ahem) countries for our critical infrastructure.

Check for a corroded electric connector. Spray it with electrical contact cleaner.

My local dealer quoted another customer $325 to replace the drivers door switch. $1000 is ridiculous. Even at $80/hour that's nearly 10 hours labor (plus parts). Ridiculous. Check another dealer.

I think that can be said of most men. Welcome to the forum.

My MKX did this. Felt like a brake grabbing and then breaking free. Took it to the dealer and they greased something on the back brakes. Hasn't done it since. Said it was related to rust or corrosion.

Unless the chips are for the PCM. (Or a half dozen other control modules.) Think there's 30 or 40 modules on modern vehicles, don't know how many or what's missing. Ford's paying less than one hour for dealer techs to install, so can't be too involved. The F150's are getting chips, but little for the CUVs. And Renesas Electronics is still recovering from the fire and not yet back to full capacity.

This is a more expensive option ($2,300), but takes you from 4", MyFord Sync to 8", Sync 3 with navigation and show what pins to switch to get HVAC controls to function. (Includes bezel). Includes everything including cables, Sirus Radio, Android Auto and Apple CarPlay. Programned and plug-n-play. https://www.infotainment.com/products/2011-2018-ford-edge-4-to-8-sync-3-touchscreen-upgrade?variant=12301078790180

Yeaaaaaa. Can't say when was the last time I seen a rusty tire. Seriously, I read that the advantage of nitrogen in tires is because the nitrogen molecule is larger than air molecules! Since nitrogen molecules are bigger than normal air molecules, it is harder for them to leak out. This means a tire filled with nitrogen will maintain air pressure longer. https://www.lesschwab.com/article/are-nitrogen-filled-tires-worth-the-cost.html Guess all those tiny little oxygen molecules are the ones that leak out. That means when your tires lose air, there's only nitrogen molecules left (which are too big to leak out). So, just over inflate your tires, let the oxygen leak out and you're driving on nitrogen. Ka-ching! (time for another Bloody Mary).