enigma-2

I seen where #akirby posted back in August in the mkx forum, that Job 1 was 10/24/22. https://lincolnmkxforum.com/topic/3748-2023-order-guide-and-timetable/

In comparing the 18" tires that came on my mix from the factory to the 20" on there now, even a small difference in diameter makes it look different. Not much, but I prefer the larger size for looks. (Doesn't ride as well however). Back to the op's question, yes, the 2008 Edge SE came with 235-65/17" tires; so they will fit. The pressure sensors are strap type (at least they are on my 09, assume yours are the same). And, due to the age, and these sensors have an battery life span estimated at 10 years, plan on buying new sensors as well. (I had problems with aftermarket strap braking, went with Motorcraft instead. Dealer told me they have a return problem with NAPA and other aftermarket sensors. But expect to pay a lot more for Motorcraft).

Me neither, but this conference is read all over the world and I have no idea where these tires are sold. There's always a slight possibility that it may help someone.

NHTSA Recall ID Number : 22T012 Synopsis : Shandong New Continent Tire Co., Ltd (SNC) is recalling certain Rolling Big Power Repulsor M/T Tires, size 285/75R16LT with DOT date codes 1418 through 1622. Due to a manufacturing issue, the sidewall may separate from the tire. As such, these tires fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 139, "New Pneumatic Radial Tires for Light Vehicles." Sidewall separation can lead to tire failure, increasing the risk of a crash. SNC will replace the tires, free of charge. The manufacturer has not yet provided a schedule for recall notification. Owners may contact Shandong's customer service at (86)0539-265-5299. NHTSA Recall ID Number : 22T014 Synopsis : PT. Elangperdana Tyre Industry (EP Tyre) is recalling certain Zeetex AT 1000 and 126/123R Zeetex AT1000 tires. Please see the recall report for a complete list of affected tire sizes and DOT date codes. The sidewall may prematurely separate near the bead area of the tire. As such, these tires fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 139, "New Pneumatic Radial Tires for Light Vehicles." A sidewall separation may cause a tire failure, increasing the risk of a crash. EP Tyre will provide a refund to owners who purchased the affected tires. Owner notification letters are expected to be mailed September 2022. Owners may contact EP Tyre's customer service at +62 (21) 876-5105.

If you can get 17's to fit, gonna leave a lot of wheel well open. Tire are gonna look small in the opening.

Sounds like your radio is having a rough day. You could consider pulling it out and sending it to a repair facility. This one, for example, charges $129. (Also offers same day turnaround, if that's important to you). (Sounds like bad solder joints on the motherboard. This has showed up before). https://www.automotivecircuitsolutions.com/products/09-ford-radio-repair

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Listed as a WY21W in the owners manual. ...?

Sure. First create a "My Key" for your teenage son. Set the maximum speed and volume for the radio. Better he drive safely (and boring) than the alternative. Father/son projects? Conside a ceramic coating for the paint. Nothing says "hot" like a high gloss paint job.

Your engine is only 3-4 years old, and you need rings? What happened, you let it run out of oil? Not trying to be negative, just seems highly unusual for a young engine to need a major overhaul. (My MKX is 14 and still has excellent compression).

Yea, I wondered about that too. The subframe isn't a part that moves in relation to tge rest of the car. It's not subject to excessive heat or vibration. Time for a 2nd opinion.

With Motorcraft, make certain you check for the correct strut. On my mkx, the strut model changes based on tire size. I have 20" wheels and it takes a different strut than that used for to 18" or 17". Don't think it matters with aftermarket.

I wonder if it isn't the tranny on the sport. It's tuned for faster acceleration and may (possibly) overheat when put under continuous, heavy loads. (So they down rated it).

There was a similar complaint in the F-150 forum and it was solved with a Sync firmware update (he called Sync Myride and they told him about it). He had to take it to his dealer to have them do it.

Oh we'd believe it all right. All to common. When you change it, don't forget to lube the muffler bearing. lol Welcome to the forum.

Nice looking car! Welcome to the forum.

Welcome from chilly Indiana! Fall is started here, it's currently 48°. :-}

Although the Edge is specifically not listed, a quick glance appears that what you show for the later power ups are the same for those used for the mustang. So I would assume the large power up for 1.7.1 is the same that was added for your Edge. Anyway, check this out. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Power-Up_Version_History

When did you last check the tire pressure on your spare? (Admit it, you forgotten a about it, right)? (btw, my T165/80d17 requires 60 psi).

Well, they 'do' have to install it. LOL Probably quoted cost plus 1/2 hour labor (minimum at most dealers). But hey! You don't need all those special tools or get skinned knuckles installing...... 🙂

Sounds like a cracked tone ring. Did you check them when replacing the sensors?

I also carry a portable pump (Dewalt 20 volt cordless inflator). While back, I checked all my tires, been awhile, topped them off. When I checked my spare it was zero psi. Pumped it up and it wouldn't take more than 15 psi or something close. Discovered the valve stem had dry rotted and split. Never hurts to check once or twice a year. Also carry a GooLoo DC1800 jumper battery. Only needed it once for my car when the battety went bad at the grocery store, but have stopped and jumped several others when they were dead.

Few years ago I had the same problem. Took it to the dealer and they replaced the brake booster.

Yikes! Struts don't go out at specific milage intervals. More of a how many potholes have you ran over? Or do you drive mostly on smooth paved roads or over rough rural roads? I've got 132k and had my oem shocks checked at last oil change (I 'want' the dealer to find bad struts before my extended warranty runs out). Still good. Lot of reasons a battery can go dead. If its getting weak, radio sucking juice or even leaving a door open can cause it. (When mine was getting weak, just leaving the rear hatch open was sufficient to kill it.) Have them test it by reading the CCA level of the battery (not just the voltage). The CCA stands for Cold Cranking Amps. All batteries are rated in how much current they can deliver at 0 degrees for a certain about of time. A typical amount could be 650 Amperes. If your battery has 50% or less than this, especially in warm weather, its past its prime and time to think about replacing it. As far as their telling you that certain parts are failing then telling you their OK, they are just making things up. A good mechanic will troubleshoot the problem methodically by tracing down the problem using the order in the service manual. Check this and if ok, then check this, etc. And when they think they have the culprit, they'll verify. Then come yo you with their findings. And, and I hate to say this, your a woman. Some shops see you as naive and they can push extra work on you. Best to walk right up to the service salesman, get close, and think to yourself, "if your lying to me, I'm gonna castrate you". Then ask him to verify his findings. Then smile. Not friendly like, just as a warning he better not be trying to push you over. Taught my wife to do this and one guy actually admitted she "really" didn't need the service. (Evil grin). As for me, on big ticket items, ask for their findings in writing and (or write it down right in front of him, repeating every word) and then get a second opinion at a different dealer. Amazing how expensive repairs can fix themselves just by driving to another dealer.

I'm not familiar with this system, but have you tried the settings in the navigation menu? Seen where a similar question was posted in a different forum and the responder indicated that the speed was determined by the car using the GPS (yea, I wondered about that as well) and the warning was controlled in the navigation menu. The OP was also dissatisfied with the quietness on the alarm. Personally I get it from my radar detector and find it annoying. After all, the reason I bought a radar detector in the first place was to ....... (think I'll just shut up now).