enigma-2

I was just reading on a different forum that the 2012 ABS module has been discontinued by Ford. This site sells used parts: https://share.google/Rh2QyDB3zZrPIfQ70

You are correct, the F150 is still 150 (the F250 & 350 are 164 ft.lbs.). I think (but only a guess) that its because the F150 uses a 6-bolt lug pattern and the Edge uses a 5-bolt. The higher torque would be necessary to proved the equivalent holding power.

Sounds simular to torque steer. Check lower control arm bushings (most common cause of pulling on acceleration), worn ball joints (wanders under load, feels loose when cornering), or worn tie rod ends (drifting during acceleration or deceleration.) Reason you probably feel it at shift points is because as the transmission changes gears, a different level of torque is applied to the wheels and the change in force (when the lower control arm bushings are bad), causes the wheel geometry to shift forward or backward, pulling the car left or right. Get the car up on a lift and check the rear bushings of the front lower control arms.

Yup, that'dll fix it. Once or twice a year clean your headlights with dawn soap & water, then dry and spray with this, and they'll never hase over. (More often if you're in the desert southwest. Its the sun's UV that causes the plastic to get cloudy.) https://a.co/d/0ddE2Gie .

As no one else responded, I'll add my 2½ cents. I pulled this off a related website: Common Transmission Issues ● Flexplate Cracks & Torque Converter Failure: Ford issued a Customer Satisfaction Program (22N12) for certain 2015–2018 models with the 2.0L EcoBoost engine and 6F35 transmission. This program covers repairs for cracked flexplates, transmission fluid pumps, and torque converters, which can cause rattling noises and eventual failure. ● Shifter Cable Bushing Recall: A significant recall (22S43) affected 2015–2018 Edges because the shifter cable bushing could degrade, potentially causing the vehicle to be in a different gear than the one indicated by the shifter. ● Torque Converter Weld Studs: A smaller recall affected some 2017–2018 models with 2.0L gas engines where inadequate welds on torque converter studs could lead to a complete loss of drive. ● Cooler Bypass Valve Clogging: Some mechanics identify a clogged cooler bypass valve as a major cause of transmission overheating and failure in the 2018 model year. Reported Symptoms Owners have frequently reported the following symptoms before experiencing major failures: ● Rough Shifting: Hesitation, jerking, or "bucking" particularly at low speeds. ● Slipping: Momentary increases in RPMs without a corresponding increase in speed, often noticed around 60 mph. ●Unusual Noises: Clunking or rattling sounds coming from the transmission area. Maintenance Recommendations While the owner's manual may suggest long intervals, many technicians and experienced owners recommend more frequent service to extend the life of the 2018 Edge's transmission: ● Fluid Changes: Aim for transmission fluid inspections and changes every 30,000 to 60,000 miles. ● Address Shudders Early: If you notice a "shudder" or "jerk" at low speeds, a software calibration update or a fluid flush may resolve it before permanent damage occurs. ● Verify Recalls: Check your VIN on the Ford Support Recall Page to see if your specific vehicle is covered by the flexplate or shifter bushing programs.

Sometimes metal debris in the transmission fluid can interfere with the magnetic sensor's readings. Changing the fluid would be my first choice. The OSS sensor itself is located inside the transmission; attached to thevm valve body. Accessing it requires draining the transmission fluid, removing the transmission pan and valve body assembly.

Ever fix this? I'd check the throttle body to see if it needs to be cleaned for carbon buildup. When it faults, the car goes into limp state. Could also be an electrical failure in the ETB itself (needs replacing.) Another possibility is a Problem with the throttle position sensor or the accelerator pedal position sensor. A fault with either of these can cause the computer to receive an incorrect throttle position location which can cause an intermittent power loss.

This is late, but for future reference, Pin 1 is the 12V battery power wire, it's violet (or violet with a white stripe). Pin 2 is the ground common ground for the coil. It's black with violet stripe (or black with a green/white stripe). Pin 3 is the PCM Trigger wire. It's color varies by cylinder. For the cylinders on the "far right", Cylinder 3 is either a yellow with a orange stripe, or violet with orange stripe. Cylinder 6 is either a violet with brown stripe, or green with a white stripe.

Ever fix this? There's a weak possibility that it can also be caused by a weak battery (low voltage), corroded connector (or bad wiring) or a bad wheel bearing.

Yup. The glaze causes the light to scatter, reducing the light pattern in the distance.

At this mileage, the most likely culprits are worn wheel bearings or RDU. If bearings, the noise changes pitch with speed and may get louder or quieter when you steer left or right. If RDU, there's a l growling or grinding that's most noticeable under light acceleration or during low-speed turns.

Believe I'm going to disagree with you on this. A private seller is NOT responsible for repairs once the sale is complete. Private party sales are typically considered "as-is," meaning the buyer accepts the vehicle's current condition and assumes all future repair costs. The only exception to this is intentional fraud or misrepresentation. Such as rolling back the odometer, hiding a salvage title, or explicitly stating in writing that a specific part was replaced when it was not. In order to win this in court, you would need to prove that the seller knew about the issue and intentionally deceived you. This can be he said, she said, in which case, you lose. Can always ask the seller to provide you with a written warranty (I.E. "will cover all necessary repairs to the engine or transmission for 30 days after sale," or the like.)

I had this happen to me as well. Too it to the dealer and he also diagnosed the problem as a faulty brake booster (which they replaced under extended warranty.) I finally got it fixed by taking the car in and had them do a full brake job, and a brake fluid change (which also necessitated resetting the ASB HCU valve.) This fixed it. (Actually, by getting a brake job, I got the brake "certified" technician, not just the jack of all trades technician. He knew exactly what was wrong. (Something about using the computer to cycle the valve.) Anyway, that fixed it and have had hard, high brakes ever since. The ABS HCU bypass valve is a known failure point that can stick open and show up as a soft brake pedal or even goes all the way to the floor. (This can get real exciting, really fast.) If a dump valve is stuck open, brake fluid is continuously bypassed into the low pressure accumulator, rather than being sent to the calipers. This causes the brake pedal to drop to the floor. .

Don't know the difference between the two. Probably the length. Anyway, there's a H2GZ-14A411-B listed on Ebay (UK) for £29.71. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135285761035

What happened to your rear springs requiring their replacement? Did you overload?

The reason for the higher torque on the 2024 Edge is because it uses larger diameter M14 studs (as compared to the smaller M12 studs found on older Edges and most sedans.) The main reason for the higher torque is because of the weight of the 2024 Edge. This weight requires more force for the wheel to be held to the hub to prevent slipping during for extreme maneuvers like emergency braking. According to published figures, the average weight of a 2024 Ford Edge is 4,122 to 4,525 pounds. (A 2007 Edge averaged 4,073 to 4,282 pounds.) These are "curb weights", to which you must add passengers and their junk. Add high speed on a tight curve and that's a lot of force being restrained on those lugs. If I'm not mistaken, I believe that its the same specification as on the F150. It's extremely important to use a torque wrench when mounting the wheels. Failure to get even pressure across the brake rotor surface will almost certainly cause warping of the brake rotors.

On a 2007 Edge rain leaking onto the driver's side is most likely due to one of three common areas. 1. a faulty windshield seal 2. clogged sunroof drains or 3. a blocked air conditioning drain. A known issue on the 2007 is the windshield adhesive can fail due to age, which causes the seal to slide and allow rain to soak the floor. It appears that you have addressed this. Clogged Sunroof Drains: If your Edge has a sunroof, if the sunroof drains get clogged, water can overflow into the headliner and down the pillars to the driver's floor. Blocked A/C Drain is a common problem. When clogged, water can back up and leak near the gas pedal on the driver's side. Also, worn or loose weatherstripping around the driver's door can allow water to seep in during heavy rain.

Who boy, whats the best oil... argument. There are so many. But here's a YouTube video I'd recommend.

This is the one I bought (for a different purpose, I don't have the capless fuel fill on my MKX.) Excellent quality and is reported to fit the Edge. Manufacturer advertises it's an "exact replacement" for the original Ford part number 8U5A-17B068-AD. $5 https://a.co/d/05R4gxEMexact replacement" for the original Ford part number 8U5A-17B068-AD.

In my personal opinion, Honda makes the best engines (found in the better off brands.) As far as for use on cars, use only the white (or black) pressure washer tips. With gas powered pressure washers, the tips are color coated indicating their spray angle. The spray angle determines the cleaning pressure. The color codes are: Red for 0°, (heavy blasting, you could cut steel), Yellow for 15° (for tough cleaning) Green for 25° (general cleaning) White for 40° (delicate surfaces) and Black for 65° (mainly for use with or detergents or rinsing the soap off). There are a bunch of accessories you can buy for use with a power washer when washing cars. I have several, such as a foam cannon, wheel cleaner and final rinse solution thingie. Plenty of YouTube videos on this subject. Always use low pressure for cars and wood; higher pressures on concrete. Have a special attachment for cleaning driveway and patio. What used to take 4-5 hours, now only takes one. It's a rotary brush surface scrubber. (Buy the Yamaha brand, lot of Chinese junk sold on Amazon. Pay a little extra, worth it. Mine is 15 or 20 years old, still looks and works, like new.) As for the pressure sprayer itself, I bought mine at Sam's Club 15-20 years ago. (They usually carry top quality products that you can depend on.) Mine's an off brand, brand is Simpson, has 2800 psi @ 3.2 gpm which is plenty for my needs. I bought it because it had a Honda overhead cam engine, and it has ran perfectly over the years. Starts easily, every time. Even with year-old gas. (That should trigger a bunch of thou-shalt-not's ... grin)

Take it to your dealer. They can $read$ the code in the cars computer.

● You check your tire pressure. ● You check your transmission fluid level. ● You check your coolant level. ● You check your power steering fluid level. ● You check your brake fluid level. ● You check your oil level. ● You check your engine air filter. ● You check your cabin filter. ● You check your seat filter. ● You check your exterior. lights to verify everything's working. ...... What are you forgetting? ....... What's the one thing you should be checking but haven't since .... ???? •• Tire pressure of the spare tire, hidden away in the trunk. 🚗....

I believe thereake be some confusion about Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer. There are two different types (Stops Rust Rust Reformer and Rust-Oleum Automotive Rust Reformer) and have different chemical formulations, depending on the application method. Method #1 is an aerosol spray (consists of an oil-based, alkyd formula), and Methoid #2, a brush-on liquid, which consists of a water-based copolymer (sort if a milky white liquid.) The brush-on takes rust and turns it into a flat black, inert primer. The only type I've used is the brush on and have had good success with it. It stopped rust for years (until I sold the car.(

If you only drain the radiator, how do you drain all of the coolant with the thermostat closed?

The carpet is all one piece. You must trove everything @itying on it, to remove it.