enigma-2

I found that switching to Phillip's X-tremeVision bulbs made a big difference over the OEM halogens. 

Example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C5QY7DW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JD7qDbTAZNFXR

Did you try doing a MFT reboot by pulling the fuse? 

What's the problem? Don't you like your Edge to sound like a 1950 Volkswagon?

lol

Dealers have the procedure for replacing now. But Ford refuses to warranty a dual horn setup. Go figure.

Fascinating. But I wonder why they tear the production line down every night and then put it back together again in the morning?

You can also add navigation (and Sync 3 if your so inclined) by changing the hardware. Here's a YouTube video describing how to do this. 

Here's one comete kit you can buy and go plug-and-play. (Not cheap, but neither was oem.)]

https://www.4dtech.com/15-ford-edge-navigation-kit-for-myford-touch-systems/

Check Ebay.  I paid $25 for a usd version.

YouTube video showing how to do this on a 2012

https://youtu.be/ODFY9TS6GsY

I can give you wiring for a 2010, 6-way power seats (you didn't specify the year or type of seat.)

Power from the battery junction box (fuse is F60 - 30 amp) to seat switch: Green with red stripe

Grounds are black with blue stripe

Front height (up): white with violet stripe

Front height (down): gray

Rear height (up): blue with brown stripe

Rear height (down): yellow with blue stripe

Horizontal (aft):  green

Horizontal (forward): green with violet stripe

Thanks. But I was thinking of water blowing up into the engine compartment when driving on wet roads. (Winter months around here, et. al.)

Really good idea about using the pin switch. I was looking at an old fashioned under hood light that employed a mercury switch.

Change the transmission fluid, engine oil, PTU fluid and rear differential fluids. Check ALL of your fuses (Wil tell you which electrical connectors got water inside.)  Required in owners manual for flooded cars (your car qualifies under flooded by Ford's definition.)

I would imagine your insurance company will total out the car (most will do if flooded above floor level.) 

Really sorry to hear about your car. Hope it works out ok.

Cooper Tire & Rubber Co. (Cooper Tire) is recalling certain size 235/65R18 Cooper Discoverer SRX, Evolution H/T, Discoverer HTP, Adventurer H/T CUV, Big O Big Foot A/S, Les Schwab Back Country QS3 Touring HT, and Mastercraft Courser HSX Tour tires. The tires may have been improperly manufactured with a ply cord distortion.

For a full list of the Tire Identification Numbers (TIN) visit:

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2019/RCLRPT-19T005-5639.pdf

The distortion may cause parting of the lower sidewall compounds extending to the cord material, increasing the risk of tire failure and a crash. Cooper Tire has notified owners, and dealers will replace the tires, free of charge. The recall began June 14, 2019. Owners may contact Cooper Tire customer service at 1-800-854-6288. Cooper Tire's number for this recall is 172.

Nice!

You mentioned "simple LED strip", is the strip exterior rated (that is, rated to be waterproof)?

Easiest and cheapest way is to use a pre-made harness (mirror-tap) that plugs into the back of your mirror connector. The mirror is on the time delay circuit, it powers on with the ignition and stays on until a door is opened or timed expires (just like the radio.)

SimpleUSBCable 12V to MicroUSB Two-Prong Universal Dashcam Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BFRWC3X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YhefDbNKWS2FZ

Left Brake Ground = black w/gray stripe

Left Brake Hot = gray w/brown stripe

Right Brake Ground = black w/green stripe

Right Brake Hot = violet w/ orange stripe

Left & Right Backup Lights = green w/ brown stripe

2009 MKX, AWD. Looking for ideas before I take back to Ford Garage.

Problem: when I turn left I (sometimes) get a loud squeak. It sounds similar to a metal dust shield rubbing against the break rotor. (Or should that be "brake", heh?)

Took it to dealer and they tore into the brakes. Could not duplicate and could not find anything. Said brakes are excellent in front and mid-life in back. (They took an hour and didn't charge me anything. Mechanic came up front and said he was baffled.) 

And of course it stopped for a couple of weeks afterwards. (But it's been very intermittent anyways.)

Now the little stinker is back. With a vengeance. Only on hard, left turns, and only a slow speeds (5-10 mph). But not always. Sometimes. Usually when it's cold. But not always. Sometimes. No other symptoms. Just the loud squeeeeeeeeeeakkkkkkkkkkk.  Kids look, neighbors drop their rakes, dogs howl, cats hunch and hiss. I smile and say "It's a Ford product." They smile and nod ....

Couple of ideas.

First press the SETUP button until POWER LIFTGATE ON OFF is displayed.  Does the "ON" or "OFF" have the "[ ... ]" brackets around it indicating the desired selection? 

If Yes, the system is operating normally at this time and the problem may have been caused by a momentary loss of communication with the LTM. If there are no brackets, try pressing the RESET button to allow the IC to query the LTM again. (If still no brackets, there is a malfunction and will need a scan tool to diagnose further.)

The second thing I would suggest, especially since you changed hardware, is to go through a Power Liftgate Initialization procedure. (Basically this should be performed whenever you realign the striker or do any alignment on the liftgate.)

NOTE: Make sure the power liftgate system is turned ON in the message center before performing this step and that the Liftgate must be in the closed/locked position before starting.

To start, first remove power from the LTM (Liftgate Module) for 20 seconds. Do this by either disconnecting the vehicle battery or removing the fuses controlling the power to the Liftgate (module & controller). There are two fuses that need to be pulled. The first is in the SJB (in cabin, near floor) and the second is in the Battery Junction Box (in the engine compartment).  SJB fuse #14 (10A) supplies battery logic power required for the software, clutch and internal switching operations; and power is supplied to the motor by fuse #59 (30A) in the Battery Junction Box (BJB).

After 20 seconds, reconnect the battery or replace the fuses and then power open the Liftgate by using the key fob or control switch. Once the power liftgate is fully open, close the power liftgate by using the key fob or control switch. The Liftgate is now re-initialized.

Years ago, while i was in the Ford garage for an oil change, they came up and said my 09 still was running the original Gold coolant. They told me that Ford had discovered that this coolant was found to cause corrosion and clogging. Recommended I switch over to Green coolant.

Somewhat expensive, but theres a lot involved. Specific procedures involved in the flush (Gold and Green must never be mixed in the same coolant systems, forms thick sludge and will clog a coolant system).  They also had to change a part in the system as it's is not plated on the inside and the Gold coolant attacks it and causes it to rust.

I have a copy of the Ford procedure and will attach it to this reply for your use.

If your still running Gold, recommend you do a full proper flush and switch to Green to avoid more problems.

2009 MKX Cooling System Corrosion.pdf

Sister video showing the interior works of the PTU and common failure points.

Took my 2009 MKX in today for 4-wheel alignment (occasionally drifts to the right) and oil change.

Soooooo sitting in the waiting room drinking a cold one and watching a tripple X flix (OK, that may be a slight exaggeration),  and the service rep comes in and ...... pulls up a chair.

Uh huh, that's the signal that they found something over $1000 and I'll be walking home.

Yup, needs a new tie rod and (wait for it) the PTU was puking black goo out the top. Sure sign the bearing is shot and overheating lubricant. Very common. Second one this month for this dealer. (Last month they had one that threw gears and broke the transmission housing). No way to fix (they have no approved process to rebuild), and replacment is only fix.

Next he asks if I know what this means uh, "yes Pat, I'd live to solve the puzzle..."  Little over $1,700 to replace. Add $300 for tie rod and alignment.

And (drum roll) it's all covered under warranty.  100%. Plus they gave me a 2018 F-150 as a loaner until my little beauty is done. (Still gotta pay for the oil change though). Wonder if I can squeeze a free car wash out of them when its done?

Talking to the service rep (who was a Ford mechanic for several years) said the only thing you can do is a pump and dump (change the fluid occasionally). Just a poor design in the Gen 1's.

Also talked about water pumps, he see's them starting to fail around 100k and going as long as 200k. Felt 130k was a good point to replace one as a preemptive move. I was considering 150k and he feels thats too risky. Changing the coolant from green to gold helps by preventing cavication, but only up to a point. They drop the engine/transmission to change. They tried the Ford procedure by flattening the left tire and going in through the hood and had to do it a second time when the silicone seal on the cover failed. Much easier and better results to drop the engine. 

Now to see what this F-150 can do. Man, is it made cheap inside. Plain Jane and no extras. Great engine however. Full back seat, great room front and back. Sits sixteen (if you count throwing a family of refugees in the bed). What?

Abet expensive, there are companies who make changeover kits available. Heres one that changes from 4" to 8" screen. Add $600 if you want to add navigation. 

https://www.4dtech.com/15-18-ford-edge-4-to-8-touchscreen-conversion-w-sync-3/

Soooooo, its been a few yeara since I've updated my navigation software. No biggie, drop in a disk or two, 30-40 minutes, and Voila!

Unnnnnn, not so fast. Version 11 has 4 (that's FOUR) disks. I'm currently on Disk #3 and its been a little over two hours. And its currently at 39.9% finished. Car has to remain running throughout whereas the previous versions allowex me to turn it off after it got started. Can't even drink a beer as wife has me on a diet. This damn update better be worth it.

On 1/15/2019 at 12:41 PM, rwf78155 said:

No rim protection on the tires........scuffed one with curb rash and cost me $150 to fix.

I noticed the new Edge ST with 21 inch Pirelli's (the tires in the picture) have rim protection......They are also ZR rated Pirelli's

 

Easy fix to prevent this. Don't have the Ford part number but these aftermarket ones wok just as well. Snazzy too! Matches your ride. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LD4UU6U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XHmxCbHFHDNZ2

Any start and stop driving? How about idling, kills mileage. 

I would suggest filling up at the pump, allowing the pump to just shut off (no topping off). Record your mileage and when 3/4 low, fill at the same pump (if possible). Subtract previous mileage from current and divide by number of gallons. Gives a more accurate reading of mpg.

If its still low, check your tire air pressure (keep at whats printed on door sticker).

If OK,  try cleaning the MAF (mass airflow sensor). If the wire becomes dirty,  it can definitely affect milage. 

How many miles on car?

This product propped up in an ad and thought it looked interesting. Haven't tried it so cant confirm if its as good as they say. (But looks like a good product).

https://www.furnitureclinic.com/Leather_Protection_Cream?utm_source=Facebook&utm_medium=PPC&utm_campaign=23843097164190646&utm_content=23843097164250646