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Liptoss

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Everything posted by Liptoss

  1. EVAP systems take a sh*% kicking in the summers. DO NOT OVER FILL your vehicle like your old man did with his '60's or 70's vehicles.
  2. In the past I've been successful in downloading and installing the update for 3.07 and 3.08 for my non-nav Sync software. I am a Tech Support for primarily Macintosh platform, so I understand the difference with Fat32 formatting as opposed to Extended Macintosh etc. I recall when I was successful with previous Sync updates, I used the Fat32 format and utilized the process outlined on the Ford site, Now though having attempted to update to the latest 3.10 update using the well documented and visual presented steps on the Ford site, I can say I'm stumped. I've tried using 3 different USB "jump" drives, a SanDisk 16GB, a Kingston 32 GB and an 8GB Kingston Datatraveler all formatted in Fat32. All formatted on a Windows computer first before mounting the drive on the Macintosh desktop and placing the downloaded .zip file onto the . Then using Stuffit Expander. Using Stuffit Expander is the way to go for certain it seems. At least on the Macintosh platform, since the Unzip app provided by Mac seems to mash and create way too many files in the folder that Sync expects to see. But, what is odd, with each of the 3 USB drives I obtain the same error. The screen in my Edge will identify, then autoMAGICally begin the update prompting me to NOT DRIVE etc... with an OK to proceed. After that the progress bar along the bottom chugs along installing up to 5 of 6 and haunts for a period. It then quickly flashes to the end, and seems to complete but I never see the 6 of 6. The screen goes dark for a period, flashes, and then comes alive again with the statement Waiting for the . The next statement is that there is a problem the USB drive and I should contact Technical support for Sync or something like that. Like I said I've tried more than a few times with each and I obtain the same message. I've even tried the upper or the lower USB port in the console to no avail. I give up. USB drive Now what's really interesting is that about a month ago, OEM battery crapped itself. I purchased a new one and installed it. After this I notice my contacts for my phonebook and quick dial had been deleted. I then reset the Sync system while my iPhone 6 with iOS 12.1 installed was connected with the USB cable. Sync Idd my phone and proceeded to update Contacts (including images I have for each). A few days later I was driving, and the Sync system started presenting me ON the main screen and the cluster a message to LISTEN or Ignore the text messages I receive. It reads them in the Sync voice. HOW cool is that!? But why this never did this for me before. Almost like a new feature, and all this before I updated to the latest 3.10 Sync! In fact, if in PARK, Sync offers me an option to view, presented on the main screen and even select reply or next text in tread etc. This is awesome and I really am quite satisfied with this Sync system now. Up until now, all it would offer me it to hold the steering wheel button, invoke Siri, and have her read to me. It worked, but lacklustre compared to some of my friends with an Android phone with Sync. If I get up the energy to "play" further with this Sync system, I may attempt 3.10 again sometime. But for now. I think I may leave well enough alone. IF anyone has an idea to reset the Calendar so when I touch Goto Today, it doesn't jump to 2010 that'd be helpful. Yes, I will try pointing the front of the Edge south disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes, and the reconnecting battery entering the car, turn the ignition on, select Calendar and Goto Today confirming the date etc. I haven't tried this technic yet.
  3. I've been tracking mileage with an App on my iPhone. Every fill up I enter the particulars litres, cost per litre and odometer reading. This App then calculates the new average fuel economy. Since changing the purge valve, rule economy has dropped. Hmmmm... I once would observed 9 to 10 L per 100kms. Now I see averages between roughly 10 to 11 L per 100kms. I wonder. Had the faulty purge valve been seeping vapours from the tank into the intake, fooling the ECM into thinking a constant rich mixture and thus leaning out the injectors? Anyone with thoughts?
  4. UPDATE: So, I had "tore" things down when I swapped over the summer tyres for winters last October. I checked the pins for good float, removed the clips and scrapped and greased under them. I then greased the clips and pad tabs and fully reassembled the rear brakes. The fronts were observed to be just fine. A couple of days ago, I begin hearing a click from the back end when I applied the brakes for he first time after sitting over night or longer period. I also hear a metallic wiping sound as I drive for a short period. Hmmmm... brakes? I assume it's the brakes since when I apply the brakes it disappears. Ahhh! I remove the rear winter tyres and observe that the outside drivers lower hanger bracket clip has slid partially our of the bracket channel. Grrrr! It seems the inner fold over tab to prevent this has rusted or fell off and allows this to occur. That's not all! The upper outside clip is totally missing! That's what's gone on here! One missing and one slipping out stainless clip has allowed the pad to float loosely in the hanger bracket channel. Click-click. It also easily moves and rubs against the rotor as the vehicle rolls forward. I called Ford parts knowing full well they don't offer just the stainless clips. Shiny stainless Ford clips ONLY are available when a full set of pads are purchased. FORGET that! My pads have loads of meat not them and are wearing well. Off to Canadian Tire I go. They have the clips. The aftermarket units I end up installing are made by Carlson. The box contains 8 clips along with 4 gator boots for the slide pins. Cost was $11.99 plus tax. I installed the new clips with a bit of maintenance as I posted above and the job is complete. What I find interesting about these Carlson clips is that they seem to be painted or coated with black. Is this just paint or is it a teflon type lubric I don't know for certain, but they didn't allow me to easily keep the pad tabs in place as I put all the items together and bolted them on. I have a good feeling about these clips. I'll be checking the wear on them in another month or so when the winter tyres are taken off. If there wear well, I'll be making it a consumable item that I put into this yearly procedure in maintaining the brakes on my 2013 Edge. Another small price to pay to make poor design work better. I'm crossing my fingers. I'll keep everyone posted.
  5. The only thing I don't understand, is when experiencing these anomalies after fill ups, did a CEL not illuminate/set? I even connected my Autel on occasions and it reported nothing as being set. Anyone with ideas?
  6. Initially observed the erratic idle awhile back only after fuel fill ups. Over the months, it became worse to the point of almost stalling. Thought I would have irradiated the issue when I changed the spark plugs at 150,000 kms this past summer. Although the engine ran quite a bit smoother with better acceleration, it remained. I tried to ignore it, but it was driving me nuts. No, in the last month or so I began to observe difficulty starting the engine after a fuel up. I bought a Ford purge valve and installed it on a warmer winter day in about 3 minutes last week. Report back so far after 2 fill ups, once in warm 5 C and another just now at -15 C. Both times, start easily with rock solid idle minus any stumble. My guess is the purge would stick open, allowing the increased compressed fuel vapours in the tank to make their way to the intake manifold and create a rich mixture. On start, the ECM would attempt to overcorrect and show as a difficult start and rough idle. Looks like FordTechMakuloco, MACTFORDEDGE and others were correct in that these units systemically fail. Thanks again FORD! At least it was a relatively cheap and easy fix.
  7. It was the purge valve. Solid idle has returned. It was less than a 3 minute job.
  8. You know I must retract that Ford can suck it. Rather the dealership I have been loyal to and dealing with has turned on me. If they actually cared about us as customers, and go through the trouble of follow ups after the service, then follow through IF the customer had concerns. Don't bug me, not hear the answers you hoped to your questions, and then disappear. Pics to come later today.
  9. My 2013 SEL hasn't cracked on the exterior flange like yours. Rather, mine cleanly snapped at one of the 2 brass threaded fittings mould into the back of the plastic handle. A coworker with a 2012 SEL cracked worse than yours, again on the same side, bottom corner. In both of our cases, abrasion rust had started below the handle flange. You'd be best to not just cover over the handle with a suggested $10 eBay cap, but remove and address the possibility of rust. I'm leaning towards an assembly line issue of possible over torque of the 2 bolts retaining the plastic handle from inside. Secret! You're not bolting down a control arm or wheel nut guys! Over time with vibration and the leverage action as the gate is opened and closed, along with weather and other elements of driving (road grime and slush/salt) we see the issues a couple of years later. So what to do? Well in my case, my challenge is different than yourself and my coworker. My mounting point behind was a clean snap. I simply removed the interior gate plastics and unbolted the handle and disconnected the electric button harness. I then cleaned the parts thoroughly and used 2 part epoxy glue to put it back as original. It's only been a couple of days now, but it's holding. I cross my fingers, but if it releases again, I'll fibreglass patch it and that'll do it I'm certain. The thin foam self adhesive gasket applied between the plastic and the painted metal creeps and failed eventually as well. Mine had slid down and creeped and wasn't even acting as a barrier and support for the plastic against the door skin. I believe the stability of the plastic handle actually depends on the successful application of this gasket. I rebuilt myself a new gasket with some rubbery electrical tape. It was approximately the same thickness as the gasket I removed. I didn't use the cheaper black vinyl tape since I wanted the tackiness of the rubber tape to assist in the adhesion of the handle to the painted metal. Final assembly be careful not to over-torque the 2 mounting bolts. Why did I choose to repair this myself, rather than approach Ford for my extended warranty repair. Well, recently I was into a dealer for another warranty repair and didn't have a regarded "nice" experience. So frankly, unless it's a major issue like a transmission or engine or other expensive electronics, Ford can stuff it. Why did I not go and buy a new part which is readily available? Again, Ford can stuff it for $200 CDN plus tax. So folks quote me... "The more you see, the more you have ah-ha moments and learn about this friggin' Edge".
  10. DEP! I think it was called. And that dates me. My plugs were over the max gap limit after 145,000kms. I used Ford plugs. Anyone ever indexed their plugs?
  11. Hey! Great advice! Yup. I'll be adding aspects of your regime to my next tire swap.
  12. No I didn't perform this on a warm engine. Decided that I'd go back to tried and true what I learned over my years. I had the threads once fudge up on me with a lawnmower that had the plug sit in it for mega eons. It pulled the threads out with the plug partially. AGH! Not a great feeling when it happens to you once. I was much younger then, and know better now. It's a lot about feeling as you first begin the turn. Yeah, I used the grecian-formula to change the plugs from white look running lean.
  13. Plugs were completed 2 days ago. Really easy overall. Had approximately 145,000 kms Used new Ford gasket and PCV. Things I found the most troublesome were removing the COPs. Don't know if it's a suction thing or what, but I put a dab-el-do-ya in each of dielectric. Another was the initial break-free of the plugs. Creeeeeeeek loosen. Then tighten slightly back, then loosen again. Back an forth if I felt needed more. Cleaned the bore with air before full extraction of plug. Blew plug threads of debris after plug was out. Puff of grey brown sediment. All else was pretty simple. Save yourself a few bucks at the stealership.
  14. Yes, clean up will include removing the cruddy grease and adding a small amount of fresh brake grease to ears and slides for certain. Front brakes are totally fine as I changed those within a month after the rears last summer. My brother had similar issues with his 2002 Chevy Slap-A-Rado rear brakes. Every change over of tyres he would clean up and lube the system, and he never had problems again with rotors crapping out. Can't blame bad cast material anymore as you hear from others. Ford makes good SH*T; some crap too though. Case in point: the latest Focus transmission issues. My 2008 Focus with timing chain was a bulletproof engine and transmission! The body sucked basically rotting out everywhere even with spray before each winter. I digress, back to brakes. I have observed MANY Edges of varying ages and driver styles over a period of time in parking lots I visit. NO, I'm not a stalker. I just learn through observation. What I see is that Edge rear brakes seem to be not holding up to the front twice to rear once formula. CASE: A coworker of mine had a 2013 he purchased new. His rears brakes were changed at a stealership and lunched themselves within a year and a half. He then subsequently purchased a new 2017 Edge not long ago. I've now watched as over the past year, the rear rotors have begun to scored and crap themselves. It won't be long before the flaking sets in and the story is wrote. That's only one winter season of driving. I've always been partial to drum brakes in northern climates where SO much salt/sand etc is thrown on the roads. My '08 Focus front brakes lasted for 225,000 kms (140 000 miles) with the rears only needing to be changed at 250,000 kms (155 000 miles). The rears would have gone longer but because the emergency brake cable froze/seized during a bad damp wet winter flash freeze, that hung the shoes, smoking a drum. Am I angry. Nope. I don't get angry. I simply observe and adjust. I develop what I need to make stuff work. What I'll need to do is clean and re-lube yearly for these brakes. Lucky I enjoy wrenching for myself.
  15. Well the longer you live, the more you learn has struck again with my 2013 Edge SEL FWD. I changed the rear rotors and pads last year, or about 30,000 kms ago. I used all Ford parts purchased from a stealership. Actually better priced than Can Tire. Anyhow...one Ontario winter under the belt and I was forced to change them again last week. I'm not entirely certain as to why, and am only taking a guess here on this issue. But, it looks like I'll be removing the rear calipres and pads to scuff clean the hanger bracket channels. It isn't enough to scuff clean the rust upon each brake job. I'll be forced each time I swap out summer to winter tyres and visa versa. I specifically believe the channel that the stainless clips rest in becomes rusted and forced the clips into a position that binds the pads from effectively sliding, thus binding and seizing against the rotor. Initially I heard as a few squeaks, and then at speed dragged so much it glazed the pad and blued the rotor. It was more or less the outside, non-piston side of the caliper that refused to correctly float. Leading me to believe that being exposed, it must be receiving more road debris etc. Whatever it is, The rear rotors should not have needed to be changed so soon. As for the squeaking, and the ridiculous "ANTI-SQUEAL/SQUEAK" mushrooms mounted by Ford on one of two caliber pins doesn't even do anything. Hack saw it off as far as I can see. Waste of cash to replace too, since they are about $45 CDN each! Thanks again Ford!
  16. Thanks for the advice on the tape. I was thinking the same. I wrench quite a bit on Japanese motorcycles and am totally familiar with successful extracting of grommeted plugs from holes. Going to begin the plugs this morning, and end with the serpentine belt replacement.
  17. OK Thanks. I recall that I had a "moment" a few years back when I changed my previous Focus plugs. I forget which cylinder plug seemed to "stick", but I tightened it a bit, then loosed it, rocked it back and forth a bit. It came out in the end. I did the change on a completely cold engine. I'm wondering how common this issue is with the Edge Duratec. I've read online about older F-150's and spark plug removal nightmares. I don't recall putting any anti seize on the threads for the Focus. Wonder what I should do with the Edge?
  18. I've purchased the plugs, manifold gasket, pcv and I'm ready to go. I've changed many spark plugs on all sorts of vehicles, but I'm rather perplexed at one thought. I understand it, but wonder if it's a good idea. In gathering the information that I need to "get the job done" I came across a Youtube video. Viewing it, the mechanic states that "Ford wants us to warm the engine up for a couple of minutes to aid in the release of the threads form the heads". The Duratec engines can have issue with spark plugs stripping the head threads. I've more or less always changed spark plugs on engines that were cool. I'm guessing that Ford figures the expansion rate of aluminum and the spark plugs difference will aid in the release of the spark plug threads to the heads. For those having performed changing your spark plugs on your Edge, or other Duratec 3.5 or 3.7 vehicle, what have you done? Cold or Warm? Have you noticed a difference? Am I just being "paranoid'? Thanks
  19. For fixed the oil leak on both VCT exhaust and intake front cylinder yesterday. The engine is "nice and clean" It required the removal of the cam/valve cover. Probably an easy job for the front canted bank of cylinders. The back would be to I'm guessing with a little more parts being pulled off.
  20. Initially I noted the exhaust only leaking, then both intake and exhaust on my '13 SEL eventually began puking oil. It is covered under warranty. Yes, vehicles can be run with oil leaks, but IMHO, oil should remain in the engine. If you have extended warranty, at this point. Get Ford to fix it.
  21. Yup. Same exact issue with my 13 Edge SEL. Driver side blowing warm air passenger side cold. They tell me the system is low a wee bit and placed dye into the system and told to come back for a black light show. TSB on blend doors I'm told. They fixed it. Had them replace the VCT pick ups gaskets on top of front valve cover while they are at it. Seems a systemic failure for the Edges in regards to the AC dual zone.
  22. OK, price for Detroit units looks great. In US$ though, and then being up here in Canada... well. Shipping etc is out of the question. I can bet the price for an aftermarket IF I could find one up north here would be, again, somewhere close to a couple hundred Loonies. Just crap. Plain Crap no matter which way it's sliced.
  23. No, I think the tone ring actually snaps due to rust accumulation under it. Poor design for vehicles that are exposed to winter weather driving (salt, sand etc).
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