Liptoss

Yes, I saw the write up, and I found it quite good in fact. But that's not my point. In this day and age of disposable items, it seems more and more manufacturers are choosing to NOT make simple parts replaceable. Rather, choosing to download the cost of more complex parts to the end user. I don't know about you, but I don't appreciate the excess cost of ownership on of a piece of... Well. I'll leave it at that. As for buying a BMW or Mercedes. Not in the books for me. I want to purchase my parts I use to work on my vehicle easily, at any locate OEM stealership, Canadian Tire, NAPA etc. at reasonable prices. I also want to try and support the home team. Hence why I bought an Edge.

I like my 2013 Edge FWD, but... the longer I own it, I'm not so impressed. I recently purchased an Auto 619 that scans, albeit limited in scope, ABS/SRS CAN OBDII codes. Today I scanned a fellow 2013 AWD Edge owner to help diagnose the ABS light and Traction Control light issue. It returned C0030:07-68, Left Tone Wheel. Further research into the parts etc I'd determined it as a possible fix for a backyard mechanic. Rather it would be... IF YOU COULD simply purchase a new Tone Wheel or Ring like you can for other vehicles, including other Fords such as the Escape! BUT No, Ford doesn't sell just the ring for $10-$20 each. They, as well as aftermarket sources ONLY sell the full half shaft at a cost of minimum $200+. Ford, naughty naughty. Once this vehicle is gone from my ownership... I will be looking elsewhere for my next vehicles.

Yup, just cheap production lines

Nope. Isn't filing in my case. Bubbling is under the paint well up the seams along the curve of BOTH back doors and along the lower edge of the back tail lid. Just like this escape 2010 Ford Escape Rusting Rear Hatch And Both Passenger Doors: 2 ... except mine is a 2013

Been looking at many other 2013 units being driven in the same areas as myself. NOPE none of them have any issue of bubbling paint along the rear door seams or along the back lid lower seam. Cheap crap that's all. I'll chalk this one up. JUST LIKE THE CRAPPY FOCUS rocker panels of years gone by. I'll deal with it, it's ok. I'll keep it in the back of my mind for my next purchase of a vehicle though.

Exactly like my 2013 SEL 3.5v6. I have the installed locking gas cap for mine and removing it doesn't seem to change the behaviour. I can see the purge valve sticking or the canister being saturated.

Not normal for doors and body, probably low grade sheet metal from specifications given to suppliers.

This is my second Ford in the last 10 years. My first was a 2008 Focus. It's systemic, it seems. Fords seem to be rust buckets after a few years. Then again, it could be many manufacturers. I notice MAZDA has loads of rust too? Hmmmm I bought a 2013 off a Ford dealer lot last March. It was a 2013 which was on the road in 2012. So, 2 winters before I bought it. Mine under carriage is pretty much rusted up like yours. P/O didn't take of it much care I'm guessing. YUP! I just replace all brakes (rotors, pads, pins etc) all around. Rotors were flaking and lunching themselves. MY issue now is with the seams on the 2 rear doors and the back hatch. On the doors it's not along the bottom rocker panel edge but up along the curve of the wheel well. The seam edge on the back gate is all along the bottom. It's rust bubbling under the paint. UNACCEPTABLE for a 4 year old vehicle. I've had a dealer spray Rust Check in all the doors and panels last fall, but it looks like it's too late. Garbage rolled steel that has been specified I've been told... heh. That's another story. I'm hitting it with doses of Rust Check on my own now, hopefully it'll hold off at least until I can dump it for a new vehicle.

It's always good when you know how something works. This may not be EXACTLY FORDesque but it's good mental picture to begin with.

Thanks... found a really great answer:

That's bizarre. SO the calliper body bore that receives the piston isn't threaded? Is the piston itself threaded? Sorry, with questions, as I have never installed this sort of set up on rear brakes before. I'm accustomed to top hat style rotors, with shoes. I'm guessing this system has something to do with the fact of the emergency brakes are utilizing the calliper piston, correct? Sorry for jacking the post and back to the original poster. How many miles has it been since you've installed the brakes? My rear brakes took almost a couple of thousand km's to seat in before I saw "nice" wear on the rotors. They also made , not a squeak, but rather a slight rubbing sound for the first while as I slowly drove down the street. It drove me nuts, but again, things have quieted up. I even once in awhile still have a squeak in the morning after sitting parked over night. By the way, I've been using FoMoCo parts all around.

When you pressed the caliber piston in, were you using either needle nose pliers? or the funky Disk Brake Piston Tool to turn the piston as you pushed inward? I found that on one rear side the rubber boot, seal around the piston gripped. I was fearful it would tear the rubber in fact. With a little gentleness of working back and forth it let loose and allowed the piston to turn freely. I still cannot get my mind around how on earth this threaded piston will ever turn much further than what the slots on the back of the pads will allow, once more than nominal pad wear occurs? Anyone have an answer?

Great! When I read info like this it gives me hope that the various components in this vehicle have what it takes to go the distance.

All I know I'll be doing a drain and fill, flush or something with this crazy transmission without a replaceable filter. Wondering if others will ring in with the mileage they've seen on their edges? I've 113,000 kms on my '13 FWD 3.5

Well, over 1 year now for my SEL 2013 and it's been ok. Rather, there's been issue for certain. As follows: 1) Entire shift console replaced as per other user above with dash warning lights. 2) Both driver and passenger door latches replaced. 3) Brake booster replaced. 4) Filler neck replaced for petrol. At 103,000 kms, bought at 48,000. Is it ok? I guess but tried my patience over time. The dealership has been decent to work with. It's quite an amazing vehicle with the v6 3.5L and highway mileage. ~35 MPG Imperial (8 L /100kms). Would I purchase another? Probably IF I get it for the same price I paid for mine. At current going rates of a new Edge CDN? NOPE! But that is just my preference and I'd prefer a "real" TRUCK for that price of a new Edge. If you get a real lemon and can't put up with it being in and out EVEN under warranty, then you've got a choice. You can bury 'er... burn 'er... or dump 'er.

Weathertechs Do Just What They Claim. Work great. BUT, when you have a swimming pool of water on either front side, trying to get the matts out is difficult without spillage. The plastic (rubber, silicone) whatever gets hard in the cold climates and doesn't bend as well. Not a big issue, diligence to empty the matts more often can avoid this. The same goes for the Weathertech matt that spans the entire back in front of the bench. It too can be a test of getting it out without spillage. AND, if the water dries up, you end up with crusty scales of salt etc. Like very thin fine peanut brittle. I'd still buy the matts though.

Specifically the names of the FOLDER (Directory for Windows users) with files that unzipped are as follows: Gen2v38build15128updatepackageNARev2 with the following inside ---> autoinstall.lst ---> DONTINDX.MSA another folder ---> DONTINDX.MSA and a smattering of 25 files named such as: ---> EA5T-14D544-AD.zip or ---> EA5T-14D546-AHB.cab

I believe I right clicked, or COMMAND clicked on the download link on the Ford webpage serving the file up, Selected download to Desktop. I then followed the instructions for FORMATTING my USB "Jump drive" as per instructions online to MS-DOS FAT. I then dragged the FOLDER that the ZIP file had uncompressed onto the DESKTOP to onto the USB, leaving all internal HIERARCHY as is. I then plugged that into the car USB in the centre console, again following instructions as provided online. Worked like a charm.

Here's what I've observed as an iPhone 5 user since updating mid-December last year. If I use the steering wheel button to invoke Siri by holding of about 5 seconds, then Siri does work to read Texts and perform "some" other tasks. iPhone needs to have screen unlocked for this to happen though. Once I read a first text though, it seems that Sync/MFT doesn't always want to return to playing iTunes music via USB that I have the iPhone connected with. It prefers to want BlueTooth Stereo. NOW, if I choose USB from the left column within ENTERTAINMENT, it returns back to using USB. Is it worth the update? In my opinion, and have learned this about using Apple products with other systems all these years, is yes. BUT only for the reason I want to be hands free, OR as much as possible while driving my vehicle. This update allows MORE of that for me, so yes it is worth it. Is it perfect? NO! Far from that. But again, I've learned this being an Apple user all these years. UNLESS you use ONLY Apple products together, then you inevitably face these sorts of issues. Apple holds it's cards close when interfacing with other technologies. (unless they have great interest in "making things work"). I still continue to use Apple though, they still make the MOST stable operations system, and generally commercial computers, around.

Curious, did you go with 18" or 17" steel rims for your winter weather? I chose 18" and am now wondering IF that was a mistake since my FWD SEL isn't as grippy in snow. Maybe it's just the Motomaster Total Terrain W/T tyres

I purchased black steel rims and tires from Canadian Tire for winter. I bought the TPS x 4 from the Ford dealership in town. The dealership told me I would need to return to them and have them programmed. I took this as gospel. I had Can Tire install TPS units and balance. Inquired with the mechanic there if he would be able to program the Ford sensors, and he said yes since Can Tire sells non-FORD TPS units. When the job was complete, he told me that it seems that the Ford units had automagically set themselves up with my Edge. He apparently had run scans and couldn't see any errors in the Can OBDII data or otherwise. That was over 3 months ago now.

My 08 Focus had the same issue. My guess is the black plastic nozzles that fit through the hood holes dried up over time due to the rising engine heat. This rendering the plastic dry and brittle. A bit of resistance in the spray nozzle on the top of the hood like frozen ice or snow, and this popped the plastic where the rubber line connects to it. Happened to me in the winter as luck would have it. Easily replaced with OEMs from dealership for about $15 tax in. Pricey I think for plastic, but it is what it is when you've had enough dried salt on your windshield.

Apple has always held their interests as priority. This has meant controlling pretty much all matters which aid in securing their financial future (can't blame them for this). Their software works optimally on their hardware. Their mantra is use our product, look how much better it is. It seems developers are never quite given the crown jewels so to speak in terms of the OS . Interfacing other platforms with Apple developments has been a slippery slope for years for just this reason. Again, if it isn't in the interest of Apple, then they will do it their way, and ONLY if they feel it's the way of the future and market will they succumb to pressure. This is me speaking from experience and having used and supported Apple products from about 1988 to the present day. They make excellent products for certain. I've learned to use them exclusively for many years. My choice certainly hasn't come without compromises. Exactly what I've learned with my iPhone and Edge MFT/Sync. If history repeats itself, I fully expect the issues we're discussing here to be resolved far too late after the market has settled on a more or less standard interface for automotive vehicles. Merry Holidays everyone!

SERVER duty? When I owned my 1994 S-10 V6 4.3, I would change oil every 2500 to 3000 km's. Any more and I developed nose bleeds and heart palpitations. lol When I changed the intake manifold gasket on it, the rocker gallery observed by a licensed mechanic told me that it was the cleanest he's ever seen. In fact he stated it looked like it had just come off the showroom floor! Leads me to believe that changing oil is good an engine and high mileage. I think I sold that S-10 with over 400,000 km's on it when I bought the 2008 Focus. AND! it still had the original water pump on it!!!! Mind you a whole pile of other stuff was done to that S-10 though.

Before my 2013 Edge I owned a 2008 Ford Focus. It was a bullet proof little motor with a pretty good tranny. All I ever did to it was change the oil every 4,000 km's. Had 3 tranny filter and oil changes, one upper O2 sensor which may not have been bad really. A few air filters, sparks twice, battery, tensioner and idler pully and belt and front and rear brakes at about 250,000 km's. I racked up 280,000 when I sold it for the Edge purchase. Great car for the basic price. I hope the Edge can follow the same. Go FORD!