3500cc

If its yellow, let it mellow, if its brown, flush it down. Oh wait, wrong kind of flush

I know this is going to be hard to swallow, but unless you're getting a tuner, the factory box is your best bet with your factory tune. I have a 2010 like you and have been thru all the intake variables. I am very pleased with my SCT X4 tuner. Save your money on that other crap and just drop a K&N into your factory box, yank out the little lower snorkel, and install the 91-octane tune. Good luck

Good News. I called SCT and on the phone in my car they walked me thru re-installing my factory tune. 3 days later I passed CA smog test. It seems I was on "Demo" mode when trying to return to the factory tune, and the tuner was seeing the car used when setting up the "Demo" tune did not match the car it was currently connected to - ergo, bad marriage. Didn't need a laptop or PC to fix my problem. I'll be returning to a performance tune later today. WooHoo !

Nick. There is one possibility. A couple weeks before I went in for smog check, I set my tune back to factory - I think. I may have set it to SCT's 87-octane tune however. I say/write this because I after setting it back, I did not remember my car running that good on the "factory" tune. So what may have happened is, perhaps the smog check guy flashed an update as part of his smog checking and now my married status failed. Who knows what happens at a smog check!? My failure was due to the oxygen sensor "not ready".

I've had my SCTX4 for most of a year and I was fine paying $399 for the performance its 91-octane tune provided... Until now. I failed smog testing! I could not switch car computer back to the factory tune via the tuner, which is a big advertised selling point of the damned device! Got an error 110D5 - Married status failed. I have since googled to find many others had the same problem. Now I probably have to pay $200 (guessing) from the local Ford Dealer to load in a factory tune. So I have in effect, a $600 paper weight! I left a email/message on SCT's website on Saturday but here it is Tuesday and no reply. I loathe to see the dealer or get on the phone with SCT. My home internet is done (ghad damned HughesNet - that's another story). I'm a thrifty person and now in my sixties thought I would splurge a little and this is what I get. Be warned everyone.

Hi. I can't seem to paste in the url for this but if u go to ebay and search for "Black Ford Edge grill", you'll quickly find one for $89 shipped. Has anyone installed a "replacement" unit like this? It is not a bolt over thing so it may require drilling. I'd like to know how hard it is to install and can I put back the stock one if I need to. Thanks.

Don't waste your money on that sprint booster. Their website specifically states it will not increase horsepower. Your tuner will make your car very responsive and add horsepower. Spend that money on beer instead

Hi MikeKilo... If you're referring to me (3500cc), I have the SCT4. It came with canned tunes and I'm currently running the 91-octane canned tune. I also modded my factory air box - pulled out both snorkels, Home Depot plugs in place of intake pancake, AEM drop in dry filter. Intake sound is always present to some degree. I may mod my stock exhaust in the future. Happy Trails...

I have a 2010 and an SCT 91-octane tune installed. The standard tunes SCT provides are for 87, 91 and 93 octane. You will notice a responsiveness increase with the 87 tune and may think its quicker, but I'm not so sure. Now the 91 tune most definitely provides a torque and hp increase that you can clearly feel. If 93 octane was available in CA I'd tune for that - but it isn't. Gas mileage with the 87 tune is the same. The 91-octane tune will get about a 0.5 mpg increase. Btw, the 2010's are rated for better mgp than the 2007-2009 and I must say your 21 highway mpg sucks. I average 22mpg with 60% highway travel. I've never been on a trip with the tune so I don't know what true mpg might be. I drive 75-80 mph. Good luck

Ya I was thinking about both also. I think? there may be a higher risk with the thing running right though. In any case, the stock air box - 2010 or 2011 - may not fit under the 2010 hood right and if so, I wouldn't be able to pass Cali smog inspection every 2 years. Upper manifold pop-off-n-on is enough of a PITA, never mind pulling the lower every 2 years.

I'm sure you all have been losing sleep over this... I'm answering my own original question of this thread. After looking at the bottom view of a 2010 and a 2011 upper manifold, it is clear this will not work. The ports are in a straight line on the 2010 but staggered on the 2011. Ah well...

Seeing that the original post was almost a year ago, the original poster may not even read this... Anyhoo... I have the 91-octane off-the-shelf SCT4 tune in my 2010 and it is faster and gets about 1/2 - 3/4 mpg better. It still costs a bit more on gas because of the increased 91-octane fuel cost. No theory chatter here - just the facts. I think it will do better on both counts once I get a better intake. Currently have stock parts with both tube-top-ports plugged and both snorkels removed from air box and an AEM dry-flow drop-in filter. Happy trails....

More findings... Sct4 is user-friendly once u get used to it; Waldo is exactly right - the stock tune is optimized for 87-octane; I think 87-octane in CA is about 86-octane. I say this because the 87-octane tune seems slightly better with 89 pump octane. Meaning, I think what sells her as 89 is really 88 - total guess; The 91-octane tune with CA 91-octane pump gas is nice. Clear boost over the 87 octane tune; I'd guess if sman83 ran 89 octane CA gas, it would be just as good with his factory tune; about 1/2 of an mpg gain with 91-octane tune. I may now go back and tinker with my intake some more. Maybe with the tune, I can get more out of it.

I'm replying to my own post. Got the sct4 tuner and installed the default tune into my California vehicle with no ill effects. I need to tweak it because the default tune only seems to fool the TPS and quicken/stiffen the upshifts in normal and full throttle driving. At this point, I don't feel any hp increase, and the fooled TPS makes you think the torque increased during normal driving, but full-throttle runs tells you otherwise. I'll reserve judgment until I exhaust all my tuning options. I think the device is not as friendly as it could be, but that's just my opinion. Others may think otherwise.

Back in the day on rear wheel drive cars, there was an easy way to check for broken motor mounts. Have someone you trust put it in drive with foot on brake and give it a little gas but DON'T MOVE THE CAR. You will look at the engine during this to see if the engine jacks up higher than normal. Do this again in reverse gear. You'll know if its not normal movement. Good luck

I have a 2010 California-shipped 3.5 v6 Edge. I'm thinking of getting a standard SCT Tuner for it, but they will not ship it to California. I can get it shipped to an out-of-state address and then fetch it from there, but I still have concerns. Meaning, is there part of our vehicles' VIN that indicates it was a made-for-California vehicle? If so, will the SCT Tuner detect that VIN indicator and not work therefore? I just hate like hell to pay near $400 for a damned part that probably costs $25 to manufacture and then have the thing not work. Please reply. Thank you.

Read this entire thread and you'll think differently. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17711-air-intake-waste-of-money-on-edge/

To those that replaced the front muffler with a straight through pipe, could you tell me if the inside of the muffler is any narrower (less diameter) than the muffler inlet or outlet? I read it is a straight through muffler - kinda like a glasspack - so I was hoping you can peek and let me know. Thanks!

Has anyone heard or read about anyone putting a 2011-2015 upper intake manifold on a 2010-2007 engine? I know the 3.8 v6 Mustang and 2.4 Accord engines showed significant improvements when using Windstar and Acura upper manifolds. I wonder how much of the 20hp difference is only in the manifold design. Maybe it won't fit or the older might even flow better? I know the newer appears to have a 90-degree bend and the older has about a 70-degree bend. I don't know about port sizes. It would be really neat if this was an easy swap for more hp. I love to dream...

At some point I'm either going to replace my stock air filter with a K&N oiley or a dry unit from AEM or AFE. K&N has good and bad points. K&N: It will let in more dirt than any other filter and there's a possibility (I'm not saying a probability) of mid-range torque loss. They flow like there's no filter in there at all, and sometimes this can only help at high rpms. The counter to this would be using the K&N but plugging the small snorkel to reduce a little flow and bring back mid-range torque. Dry filter: No dirt ingestion and probably flows a little better than the stock filter. I doubt there would be any torque loss with this, but potential high-end power might suffer a little when compared to K&N. Either way, my 4080lb SE might not notice a handful of hp gain... but I can dream, right!

I wouldn't plug that small snorkel. I'm thinking Ford realized the main cold air input might not have been a large enough opening for the engine's full throttle breathing needs so they added the small snorkel to compensate. I'm just guessing though. Heck, you could temporarily plug it with duct tape and see how it runs at all throttle ranges. I'm still experimenting so I'll post if I come up with anything worthwhile.

I took off my silencer and went into Lowes/HomeDepot and then matched the black abs plastic caps to the size of the muffler protrusions. They are exact, but close. Do not get the white pvc stuff as its heat rating is 140 farenheit max and abs is 180. Underhood temps can gat to well over 200 but where they sit in rubber and are in a cooler air stream, they should be ok. Do remove the rubber intake tube and push them in so they become a flat continuous roof with the surrounding intake roof. In other words, you want the flow to be as uninterrupted and smooth as possible. Don't forget you'll need 2 clamps so they stay in position. I noticed my transmission is more responsive after doing this. 1/3 push on the pedal makes the tranny kick down where 2/3 pedal was needed before. Nice responsiveness. Horsepower increase? I doubt it, but better response. MPG is no worse. Can't say if it's better cause I can't keep my foot out of it after only a month of ownership. Definitely worth the $3 of plastic. Good luck