vipervenom550

I literally just had this same problem buying these blades from Canadian tire so I tried to turn the clip around but you can't do it. When you take the clip off you will see it will not fit if you try and reverse it. Save you taking apart your old ones.

After my first pan leak fix that then started leaking again, it turned out it wasn't the pan leaking but the front cover. Something to keep an eye on as where the oil leaks from front cover it makes it look like the pan. It did take the dealer three times to get that front cover leak fixed though.

No i just painted the wheels with some satin black wheel paint, they turned out pretty good. I have separate winter rims so I think the paint will stand up ok.

Snapped a couple more quick pics. I painted the calipers blue and changed the lug nuts to black to help clean up the side profile a bit.

Also you should check tire prices for 19 inch wheels, I know back in the day when I had 19's on another car it was more economical to move up to 20's because there were way more tire options at better prices.

The car got rained on last night I will snap a few more when I get er all cleaned up again.

Wrapped the top half of the car since I was sick of the rock chips.

Jeez I didn't see this thread was still going sorry. Roots if you can install speakers and have experience in car audio you can install the Maestro and the amps. With the adaptor harnesses it's really all plug and play. I wish I would have done the install myself and just paid for the tuning, it would have saved me a lot of money. As for the bass/mid/treble controls on the factory stereo they now become individual volume controls. So the bass is the sub volume which it nice to have the adjustment and the rest will control the volumes based on what is setup in the amp. For me the treble controls the front tweets and the mid controls the from mid door speakers since that how its wired.

Lots of great info in this post. I will just add a little info from my old platform the Caliber SRT4. The car had a very similar setup with the strut towers being very close to the A pillars and was also a very stiff car. A member made a cheap little rig with a shower curtain to measure the flex between the mounts of his strut bar and it was quite interesting in how much flex there actually was. If anyone want to read his little test: http://www.caliberforumz.com/showthread.php/28554-REVIEW-MPx-Strut-Brace-amp-measuring-rig After seeing this test which isn't a precise science I will always add a strut bar since its a cheap upgrade.

Carpooler you are right it wasn't that much to get them to install the front while they were changing out the back. The back piece of glass turned out to be almost as much as the front. I think I am at about $2900 for glass plus installation. I am definitely putting some film on the glass to help reduce rock chips and buy additional glass insurance. It actually all getting done this afternoon so I should have it back tomorrow. Also they didn't have to remove the headliner to change the back glass.

That piece I cut out wasn't very big it looked like it was just support the back of the stock sub which I don't think it needed. As for the spacer I think you could add on but I think the sub would hit the trim panel. But there is quite a bit of flex on that rear panel so if you put a grill or some sort of spacer to account for the excursion of the sub you would be fine. I hear you on the shallow subs, while I find this new sub i put in has a much cleaner and smoother sound then factory I really miss the deeper lows of a 10 or 12 inch sub.

Let me know how the swap goes I my movable and non movable piece just cracked. Have to pay someone to change the non movable but maybe I can save some money by doing the movable myself. I have been told the headliner will need to be dropped to change the back non movable piece. Going to be very pricey to fix all this glass.

I snapped a few pics of the measurements of the factory sub and the box. I forgot I modified my box, there was a plastic cone shape that mounts to the back of the factory woofer. I cut out the cone and siliconed in a piece of MDF to give me a little more mounting depth.

Just wanted to add to this post. Sorry I didn't see the replies, I could grab that depth measurement if you need it. I was not happy with the sound of sub. The Hertz did not like the factory box so I went back to the factory sub for a while and it sounded slightly better. I finally got some time to whip up a quick wood box that fits behind the panel. I think eventually I might upgrade to a 10 since I see there is quite a bit of room back there, I might have to fibreglass the 10 but I think it would be worth it. For now I am quite happy with this 8 the sound over stock is hugely improved. This box is about .27cu.ft.

The difference is night and day. I did the speaker upgrade before the amps went in and they definitely sounded better then stock but only came alive when I added the amp. The sound is loud and clear. The amp has the ability for multiple configurations and can allow you to change the system in stages. I only went for speaker upgrades and multiple amps because I knew I wouldn't be happy with just one amp. But you can run the whole system off just the Audison amp. Overall I am very happy with the results.