vipervenom550

I literally just had this same problem buying these blades from Canadian tire so I tried to turn the clip around but you can't do it. When you take the clip off you will see it will not fit if you try and reverse it. Save you taking apart your old ones.

After my first pan leak fix that then started leaking again, it turned out it wasn't the pan leaking but the front cover. Something to keep an eye on as where the oil leaks from front cover it makes it look like the pan. It did take the dealer three times to get that front cover leak fixed though.

No i just painted the wheels with some satin black wheel paint, they turned out pretty good. I have separate winter rims so I think the paint will stand up ok.

Snapped a couple more quick pics. I painted the calipers blue and changed the lug nuts to black to help clean up the side profile a bit.

Also you should check tire prices for 19 inch wheels, I know back in the day when I had 19's on another car it was more economical to move up to 20's because there were way more tire options at better prices.

The car got rained on last night I will snap a few more when I get er all cleaned up again.

Wrapped the top half of the car since I was sick of the rock chips.

Jeez I didn't see this thread was still going sorry. Roots if you can install speakers and have experience in car audio you can install the Maestro and the amps. With the adaptor harnesses it's really all plug and play. I wish I would have done the install myself and just paid for the tuning, it would have saved me a lot of money. As for the bass/mid/treble controls on the factory stereo they now become individual volume controls. So the bass is the sub volume which it nice to have the adjustment and the rest will control the volumes based on what is setup in the amp. For me the treble controls the front tweets and the mid controls the from mid door speakers since that how its wired.

Lots of great info in this post. I will just add a little info from my old platform the Caliber SRT4. The car had a very similar setup with the strut towers being very close to the A pillars and was also a very stiff car. A member made a cheap little rig with a shower curtain to measure the flex between the mounts of his strut bar and it was quite interesting in how much flex there actually was. If anyone want to read his little test: http://www.caliberforumz.com/showthread.php/28554-REVIEW-MPx-Strut-Brace-amp-measuring-rig After seeing this test which isn't a precise science I will always add a strut bar since its a cheap upgrade.

Carpooler you are right it wasn't that much to get them to install the front while they were changing out the back. The back piece of glass turned out to be almost as much as the front. I think I am at about $2900 for glass plus installation. I am definitely putting some film on the glass to help reduce rock chips and buy additional glass insurance. It actually all getting done this afternoon so I should have it back tomorrow. Also they didn't have to remove the headliner to change the back glass.

That piece I cut out wasn't very big it looked like it was just support the back of the stock sub which I don't think it needed. As for the spacer I think you could add on but I think the sub would hit the trim panel. But there is quite a bit of flex on that rear panel so if you put a grill or some sort of spacer to account for the excursion of the sub you would be fine. I hear you on the shallow subs, while I find this new sub i put in has a much cleaner and smoother sound then factory I really miss the deeper lows of a 10 or 12 inch sub.

Let me know how the swap goes I my movable and non movable piece just cracked. Have to pay someone to change the non movable but maybe I can save some money by doing the movable myself. I have been told the headliner will need to be dropped to change the back non movable piece. Going to be very pricey to fix all this glass.

I snapped a few pics of the measurements of the factory sub and the box. I forgot I modified my box, there was a plastic cone shape that mounts to the back of the factory woofer. I cut out the cone and siliconed in a piece of MDF to give me a little more mounting depth.

Just wanted to add to this post. Sorry I didn't see the replies, I could grab that depth measurement if you need it. I was not happy with the sound of sub. The Hertz did not like the factory box so I went back to the factory sub for a while and it sounded slightly better. I finally got some time to whip up a quick wood box that fits behind the panel. I think eventually I might upgrade to a 10 since I see there is quite a bit of room back there, I might have to fibreglass the 10 but I think it would be worth it. For now I am quite happy with this 8 the sound over stock is hugely improved. This box is about .27cu.ft.

The difference is night and day. I did the speaker upgrade before the amps went in and they definitely sounded better then stock but only came alive when I added the amp. The sound is loud and clear. The amp has the ability for multiple configurations and can allow you to change the system in stages. I only went for speaker upgrades and multiple amps because I knew I wouldn't be happy with just one amp. But you can run the whole system off just the Audison amp. Overall I am very happy with the results.

I have been very impressed with the Audison. Sound quality is amazing but I really like the tuning. You load the software on a laptop and run a USB up front and sit there and tune. But overall I am happy with the purchase.

I actually did have polyester fill in the box, but the polyester actually slows down the waves in the box making the sub perform like its in a bigger box. I thought the factory box would be too small but I was wrong. Thanks though most of the time fill does make a world of difference. I only replaced the fronts. The fronts are the are the most important since all the other speakers are fill and the stock ones aren't that bad. I always put the money in the fronts, you will hear the most benefit. I guess I forgot to add that I didn't hook up the center or the tweeters at the back up top. The DSP has built in time alignment so you can create the illusion of the sound coming from the center with that. The reason I did this is that the replacement center channel speakers you can buy don't even come close to the quality of the door speakers. And really if you hear the system the sound imaging is pretty amazing. I'm pretty sure there are lower grade speakers or a different brand that will fit right in the factory locations, I should have measured the stockers when I had the door off but I didn't even think about it. Cost wise: Amps $1300 Speakers: $500 Sub: $149 AR module: $249 The only thing I didn't install was the AR module I let the car audio shop do that. The other stuff is not too high on the difficulty level. If you didn't want to spend quite that much many people have said the factory DSP is a lot of the issue with the muddy sound. The upgrade the car audio shop suggested was to just add the Audison amp and the AR module and leave the stock speakers in. With full control over your sound with the DSP and a clean amp that will make a world of difference, plus the stock speakers aren't that bad. Personally I knew I wouldn't have been happy with that solution because my last car had a very nice system in it and even what I have done in the Edge is a huge downgrade.

So there is lots of good info on the site about upgrading the systems in the Edges. I will just add a few things from my experience in my upgrade. I have a 2015 Sport with the Sony upgraded system but a lot of this info will apply to the other models. Recently IdataLink released their Maestro AR module which allows you to remove the factory amp and add compatible aftermarket amps. You can google this module as they have a good video explaining how it works. But basically for the first time you can add your aftermarket amps pre factory amp instead of post (IE high level in). I snapped a pic in the middle of the installation the wires are a mess but the end result they are all nice and tidy. I added the Audison 8.9 which is an 8 channel amp with built in DSP(you need some sort of DSP when adding the AR module). The Hertz a mono block for the sub and basically a slave from the Audison. The little black box at the bottom is the AR module. The amps are installed where the factory amp used to be so the panel hides the installation. Just a quick tip on running the power wire. There is a nice big grommet to go through right under the dash above the brake, it come out on the backside of the brake hydraulics that way you don't need to drill. I also upgraded the front speakers to the Focal PS165's. The tweeter as many have said will not fit in the factory location so I installed it in the small removable panel at the top of the door, I figure this panel will be cheap and easy to replace when I sell the car. Lastly our factory sub box will hold an 8 inch sub so I threw a Hertz in there. All in all the sound is amazing compared to stock, the factory DSP is very muddy and hard to get nice clear sound but its nice and clear onthe Audison DSP. The only thing is the sub, I am not quite happy with the sound. I figure the factory box is between .5 and .6 cubic ft and the sub likes a smaller box closer to .3 so I may change to to a better sub in the future. If you are wondering the factory sub appeared to be a dual voice coil 2ohm sub when i tested it. Lastly one nice thing about the AR module is it takes the factory bass mid and treble settings on your factory head unit and changes them to speaker control. IE bass = sub volume, mid = mid speaker volume and treble = tweeter volume.