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Beezz

Edge Member
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Posts posted by Beezz

  1. Ive had the same kit sitting for 2 months in the garage, no damn time to install. Plan to do brake fluid, ss lines, rear swaybar, F/R links, caliper covers, and winter tire swap all at the same time. 

    Any tips for the install? Any issues with the install?  Did your pads have any chipping on them? I ordered 2 sets of front and rear pads and the fronts both have chipping. (ordered everything from rock auto) 
    Thanks!

    On 10/31/2018 at 12:47 PM, snmjim said:

    If you feel you don't need the exotic calibers & rotors & pads that Xtra & Root have on their Sports but feel your braking system has the caliber pressure/power you require but with better pads & rotors it would be all you need then try the Power Stop Pad & Rotor kit #K7231

     

    Comes with pads, rotors and all replacement hardware for all four wheels.

     

    I purchased mine from www.rockauto.com for under $300. after the Rock Auto discount & PowerStop rebate... :thumbsup:

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  2. For anyone not in the United States purchase from here: https://www.globalindustrial.ca/p/motors/collars/power-transmission-collars/metric-two-piece-clamping-collar-gm2c-30-ss or try out amazon in your region. Fastenal is also a good place to check.

    Since McMaster doesn't ship to international non business/ non school customers.

     

    global industrial also has black oxide steel collars, but if you're in Canada like me, you will be much better off with the stainless ones.

    • Like 1
  3. Checked the can after 5000km of winter driving. It had about 350 mL of liquid (more water than oil). So apparently it does work, but not very well in the summer. The front one remained empty, but the main rear can was fairly full. Also removed the stainless wool before the winter.

  4. is anyone making them for Gen 1's 2013... thinking of just doing the amber lights..

    Haven't seen any available

     

     

     

    Figured this would be a good thread to post this on. Has anyone seen the Euro spec Vignale edition Edge? Particularly the honeycomb grille? I also really like the fog lights. Heres a pic:

     

    You can get that grille on ebay too now, a few sellers have it. It looks like the clips are the same as the stock and raptor grille.

  5. Does the 2016 Sport have a drain plug? Anyone have a write up out there on the fluid replacement on a 2016 Sport?

     

    Thanks!

    Shumax

     

    1) Remove the under body shield on the oil pan side , bunch of torx heads and a few plastic clips.

    2) The drain plug faces the ground, uses a torx bit I believe. Remove and drain.

    3) Measure the fluid you got out, should be around 700 ml. Probably will be metallic looking from wear.

    4) Clean the drain plug, should be some metal on the magnetic end of it. Re-install (2015 Torque spec is 33 lb.ft)

    4) The fill plug is directly under the rear turbo, same style as the drain plug (See 1004Ron's post).

    5) Grab some 75W-140 gear oil, I recommend AMSOIL Severe Gear, or Motorcraft. 1 bottle per flush you plan on doing.

    6) Fill with a hand pump, roughly 650 ml, at about 700 ml the fluid will start to spill out of the fill port. Total fill capacity is 700 ml.

    7) After you get the roughly 700 ml in and it stops dripping, put the plug back in, clean any metal off the magnet. (2015 Torque spec is 33 lb.ft)

    8) Re-install the under-body shield.

    9) Drive it and then check for leaks, if you plan on doing multiple flushes drive enough to heat up the oil.

     

    The oil that comes out smells horrible, so enjoy! :drop:

     

    Depending on your mileage you might also want to get an oil analysis done. OAI Testing is pretty good.

    • Like 4
  6. @Beezz are you planning to install another catch can?

    If I dont have to pay for it........ then yes :twister:

     

    I used the large RX catch can on my girlfriend's Edge. I drain it every 5,000 miles when i change to oil. It pulls about 6oz of oil and water at each drain. I use JLT seperators on my boosted F150 they keep damn near all the oil out of the intake track.

     

     

    Everyone with the RX systems seems to be catching a good amount of fluid. RX is the way to go.

    • Like 1
  7. Hopefully I'll finally put 3 packs of Dynamat (36sqft each) and 50 lbs of poly-fill into the edge some point this month. Had them sitting in the basement for like 6 months now. Dynamat is on sale at Amazon for 220CAD right now, even cheaper in the states last time I checked. Poly-fill (on the inside) might help to fill in the trunk side panels and under floor, plus its easy to remove if you dont glue it in. Carpet underlay is another good option as well. For the outside a rubberized undercoating is the way to go!

  8. I'm not sure what you mean. nearly everyone recommends the catch can, beez only had 7500 miles on it with the can, and no one knows his driving style, or weather during that time, and then later admitted he felt the other manufacturers were a better kit. based on the time of his post, it was during summer, therefore less gunk n junk.

     

    paying 35k or more for a vehicle and complaining about a few hundred bucks for a bit of insurance. no brainer in my eyes. also considering the install isn't that labor intensive (for the mechanically inclined) its really not that expensive.

     

    UPR SUCKS BIG TIME. I'm at ~ 18 '000 km now. I drain both cans at least at each oil change which is ~ every 5000 km. They never have more than a thin coating of fluid in them, even added SS wool, it helped a little. As to driving habits, I drive the car hard, always getting into boost and its tuned. This was mainly in summer/spring conditions so that does impact what is collected. I'll be updating that topic thread after the winter.

     

    Also, I had the kit installed since the initial quote was cheaper than me buying it paying shipping, duties and taxes and wonderful handling fees. I had to buy the lms tuner, which would've been brutal to pay taxes and duties on. It was just cheaper to have everything done by lms. But after it was installed the labour cost was double of the quote, but nothing I could do.

     

    The kit is not meant to fit well in the edge, the lines bend far more than they should, the rear can is a PITA to remove and drain.

     

    Get another companies kit, they are cheaper, more compact, and overall better. UPR SUCKS.

    • Like 1
  9. I've got this one : aFe Power 31-10260 Magnum FLOW Performance Air Filter (Dry, 3-Layer) non-oiled, also fits the fusion sport i believe

     

    Can someone please tell me which AFE filter, or other air filter, fits the 2.7L Ecoboost?

     

    There's a lot of conflicting info out there and none of the sites seem to recognize fitment for the Edge Sport.

    • Like 2
  10. honey comb isn't hard to wrap, it's just annoying and extremely time consuming, I was referring to wrapping everything but the honeycomb and red letters. but wife used her Veto on this mod and doesn't like the grille on the Edge, she loves it on the raptor though.

     

    That would've looked pretty nice, maybe she'll change her mind.

     

    Grill looks pretty cool but I'm not sure about the black paint or wrap on the hood. What's on the hood????

    Thanks, its some 3m gloss black vinyl. Used to have plastidip surrounding the perimeter of the hood

  11. Wow, that's distinctive, bet you get a lot of complements. :thumbsup:

    Thank you! And lol only drove it for 2 hours since its been on. Got 1 thumbs up so far

     

    Nice, Think I may make this purchase now and then wrap the grille and letters.

     

    Wrapping the honeycomb would be pretty challenging. It comes as a metallic matte grey, mine was missing paint and was scratched so I had to repaint. Got it painted a semigloss metallic black.

     

    Heres some other shots:

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    • Like 2
  12. Here is some pictures and details of my install of a 'raptor' grille on my 2015 Edge Sport. Click this link to go to my build log:

     

    Process:

    Jack up the car, remove the battery, headlight housings, and front wheels. Then start removing all the fasteners on the bottom of the bumper. Remove the fender liner fasteners. Pull the fender liners, disconnect the electrical connections on the driver side of the bumper. 5 connectors if you have the engine block heater, 4 if you don't. Remove the push pins on the intake cover. Detach the bumper by removing the 3 bolts on each side of the bumper where it meets the chassis. Remove the bolts holding the grille to the upper radiator/hood supports. Then carefully move the bumper. If you have the front view camera, you have to disconnect the washer and electrical connector before the bumper, grille, and chassis can be separated. Once you've got the bumper off the car, have fun with the clips that hold the grille onto the bumper. One clip is near a mounting tab for the wiring harness, be careful otherwise you may snap the grille at that point. There are 2 brackets screwed onto the grille that need to be transferred to the new grille

     

     

    The new grille snaps right into place, you can use the handle end of pliers to push on either side of the mounting tabs until you hear them click in. You can either remove the front camera and washer completely, or re mount them. I removed the washer, and remounted the camera between the O and the R. The view is obstructed, but still usable. The harness needs to be moved so it is less visible through the grille. It needs to slot in between the grille and bumper bar. You can then wire the lights on the grille if you wish. I ran mine off an ignition switched control panel I have. See this link:


    Got the grille from ebay, seller: autoparts-selection

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    • Like 8
  13. I had experienced the same hard shifting, even got the gears to grind on a full throttle run (sounded liked death). I emailed my sales rep at LMS, and he forwarded my message and questions to the tune guys. I got a call about 30 minutes later, they explained that until the computer relearned the shifting strategy it would feel very abrupt. The biggest thing is that once you load a tune, DO NOT floor it or drive it super aggressively for the first 100-200 km's. The computers need to relearn the shifting firmness and other sensory data. Another possibility is the traction control systems are cutting power when you're driving aggressively causing the harsh shifting.

     

    Even still, on a cold start, for the first 5 minutes or so the shifting is firmer than it will be once things get up to temperature.

     

    I'm running the 91 Perf Aggressive tune.

    • Like 1
  14. Sorry to hear that your costly project didn't work out, and thanks for keeping us all posted and informed.

     

    Could it be that Ford have found a way to reduce the oil deposits in the intake manifolds, or UPR have screwed up?

     

    How confident are you that the McNally kit will work?

     

    I cant say anything about Ford being able to reduce the blowby. But I did read on some other posts where people with other kits have been catching a few ounces of fluid between oil changes. There is videos about people complaining the UPR kit doesn't work on the 2.7EB. And the people who have actually been catching fluid have had the McNally kits, so thats what makes me say they are probably better. And they are far more cost effective.

     

     

     

     

    My teamrxp catch can in my 2.0 edge & my james barone catch can on my cx7 barely catches anything during the summer months where it's frequently above 60 degrees, all day every day. I find a lot more in my Catch Cans when the temp is below 40 degrees.

     

    I haven't checked my Edge's can in a couple thousand of miles so it may be worth a check. The last few times i checked, happened to be after long road trips & a few drops came out each time.

     

    Maybe it's something to do with how much boost we use & when we use it? Definitely get more with our daily short drives than our longer vacation trips

     

    Interesting, maybe I'll see different results in the winter. Considering that I'm running a tune, im going to have more boost and probably more blowby as a result. And yeah that makes sense, longer trips you'll be less in the boost than on shorter daily driving.

  15. So there is actual oil pressure reading available through OBD now, or still an on/off switch?

     

    Well all I see on the Diagnostics and Testing info is that it'll throw codes as follow: Open, Low, High, Performance/Stuck Off. So maybe?

    • Like 1
  16. 12'000 km on the kit now. Both cans had close to nothing in them. All I got was some yellow fluid after wiping the lines, fittings, and the inner can walls. I would suggest avoiding the UPR kit. I added stainless steel wool to both cans and I'll update after 5000 km. If you want something that works better, look at McNally's products.

    • Like 1
  17. Just concerned that some wool might get sucked into the engine, so i'll have to find something that doesnt come apart. I think I did pull a hose off the intercooler a long time ago, and it dripped a bit of oil. Ill pull it when I get chance.

     

    The RXP one does look like a good kit, and is actually affordable. Just to note they block off the front side vent with a cap and re route that line. Not sure if this is good or bad for the engine.

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