Beezz

I am running into a very strange issue with these bulbs. When the engine is not running they operate normally, when the engine is running they flicker/strobe whenever the turn signal is activated.

See the attached videos:

Hazard ON, Engine OFF (same applies for turn signal activation)

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3KiK2mnNJqFZURfdFdpNEwzaVk

Hazard ON, Engine ON (same applies for turn signal activation)

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3KiK2mnNJqFU282N2JGWUxjdXM

Switchback function demo:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3KiK2mnNJqFZ1VwT0l1dVFjRWc

With headlights on they are dimmed to white, turn signal activates amber flashing

In all cases it doesn't matter what lighting mode is selected, when the engine is off the turn signals don't flicker/strobe , when the engine is on they do flicker/strobe. I have tried using an inline resistor and it did absolutely nothing. I have seen the turn signals work properly when the engine is running, but its once in a blue moon.

Anyone know what is going on?

Usually when towing or when there is a lot of weight in the car. 90% of the time its in auto, and yeah totally agree, its much faster when it shifts on its own.

I'm almost at 18'000 km

Now at 21'000 km and the issues are getting worse.

^ still would have been quieter

So I have noticed more and more that when I have the transmission in sport and shift manually it shifts super hard. When downshifting the car lurches and makes abrupt jerks. When downshifting into first gear there is a loud clatter and an excessive lurch. It sounds so bad for the transmission.

Another issue, the transmission takes f o r e v e r to shift from drive to reverse / reverse to drive. Many times when I shift and then push the gas nothing happens it feels like the clutch is slipping and gears are grinding until it finally engages. When I say forever I mean longer than 5 seconds from when you release the gear selector to pressing the gas. At certain points after a cold start (1-2 days) when I change from D-R or R-D and push the gas, the clutch slips and the car lunges and then once the clutch catches itself the car moves.

I'll be seeing my dealer soon, however I wanted to see if anyone else has experience any similar issues.

Update: Dealer #1 said there is no problem.

15 sport:

From factory: 1 paint run on the front driver side fender. 1 paint chip under driver side taillight. Dirt in the paint in 2 separate locations.

11 months in: Paint chip on hood, paint chips all over the front bumper, scratches on the door panels (not from me) Paint on inner door panels is beginning to wear away (high intrusion of dirt from the weatherstripping on the underside of the car) rust is visible (I apply fluid film to any visible spots). Rust specs visible on exterior paint, can be removed when the car is clayed and sealed. I feel as though the paint isn't very thick on my edge, simply because there is a heck of a lot of rock chip/bug damage everywhere and the paint has worn down near the weatherstripping on some doors.

The paint looks fantastic from a slight distance, but if you get up real close, you start to notice things.

yeah they have these pins that they lock on to, but you can pull them up to remove them. That hook was a great idea, but yeah it doesn't seem secure at all on the top with the weatherstripping, if the hook was bigger then it would have been fine. It's slipped off on me a few times, luckily I wasn't digging through the bins.

They should've copied the Germans and added a electronic beep, like many bmw's have.

I had the same problem with my '15 Sport. There is a SSM (Special Service Message) about the issue. Bring it to a dealer and the fix is to replace the brake booster with an updated part.

do you know the SSM # I would like to have it before I go to the dealer and get brushed off once again

I jumped onto the forum today to look for this exact thing. I was at a do-it-yourself carwash today with my 2015, and while I was high-pressure-soaping near the front doors, the liftgate suddenly opened. I have no idea what would have caused it, but now I'm panicked that it might do this same thing when going through a full size mechanical carwash and I wont be right there to close it.

 

Not good!

Did you have the key in your pocket? If so, you could have accidentally pushed the liftgate remote open button. I've done that to the panic button too many times, so embarrassing.

I understand the reason for the double honk, but damn why the hell couldn't they make it a quite double honk. Its so loud that every time i even think of getting out the car with it running, I stop and take the fob out of my pocket and throw it on a seat.

you

 

 

you will also need to modify the tail lights to get the full look of the titanium and sport.

This subject has been discussed as well in a couple of other threads

 

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19772-sel-tail-light-swap/

 

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19759-2015-sesel-light-bar-solution/

True, those are light bar / tail light swaps. I meant physically adding leds/ led strips into the bar, and then wiring them. This would take a lot of work and is risky if you have to open up the lights.

No problem, yeah it appears that way

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3KiK2mnNJqFb0hEdTFmVk9nUnc

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3KiK2mnNJqFRDFQaERyTmJPSkU

Nick has pictures of it removed on another post, if you want the service guide I can send you the link for the applicable files.

LOL those people are idiots

^ / ^^ out in the country these lights are super useful, especially when your're driving through farming areas, or gravel roads. Animals come out of nowhere, sometimes the roads bend without signs. Sure its illegal to use these types of lights on public roads (most places), as long as it is quick and easy to turn off, no harm no foul.

Also, I've purchased many products from KAWELL, you can find their stuff on amazon. Its actually great, and affordable. I have 5 bars on a zero turn and they output crazy amounts of light.

The shutters close on startup and open when the ecm decides the coolant is warm enough(depends on the ambient temp aswell) . They will also close at higher speeds to increase areo efficiency, and open when more cooling is required. You should be fine with installing it there, you might not even have to remove the shutter. Overheating would be highly unlikely as there is still air flowing around the light bar, unless you really go for a long hard drive, in which case you might want to monitor the coolant temp with a obd2 device.

An alternative would be wiring some led strips (super bright ones) but it probably won't look as clean or be as bright.

yeah the edge has puddle lamps that shine down when you unlock the car, and the scuff plate light(optional)

HOW THE HECK DO YOU GET THEM BACK IN????? I've been trying for 20 minutes to get the housing to lock back in. Someone spare me the misery.

Update: got them back in, such a strange process / angle

Did you have any issues getting the OEM puddle lights out of the mirror housing? I played with mine a bit today and they wedge themselves after getting them out a bit. Thinking of getting some LED puddles to replace the OEM ones.

I broke one of them removing it, which is why I had to replace them. As Tjm623 suggested, use a super small flat head bit and get the clip side to disconnect first, then on the opposite side there is a little black rectangle thing on the puddle lamp, get something(toothpick) to unlatch it from the mirror housing. Just be careful and you'll be able to wiggle it out.

Honestly though its the cheapest implementation (besides the older durango) the light bar has like 8 small leds in it, they just used the plastic to disperse the light throughout the bar (notice how the light is uneven), with some electrical skills and patience you could mod a non light version and have it stay on all the time when the car is running.

Bump.

I think its safe to say that people get annoyed when it takes 30 minutes to find a topic thats buried in the most obscure location. Honestly, separate the gens, then group the years, categorize things as many people listed in prior to this post, anything that applies to multiple years/gens tag together, have them linked so people can navigate through the separate posts easily. This will obviously take some hard work, and frequent monitoring, but hopefully over the next little while something will be done.

Such as, Rattles: group all the rattle posts for that gen, then by year, then if 2 posts are similar or apply to multiple years, tag a link to the 1st one on the top of the topic thread of the 2nd one and vice versa.

Ive had it try and park me into a spot that had a car in it already, several times. (parallel -6 , perpendicular - 7). Sometimes it tells me to keep backing up even though I couldn't fit my hand between the bumper and the other vehicle. I've lost all trust in the system, I only use it when there is enormous amounts of room and no one around.

Omg

 

I just got my ford edge sport (dealer broke my rear window , they replaced it) it now has less than 100km it actually has 90km on it, i am getting around 22L/100km

 

My numbers are awfull!!!

 

Did anyone else experience the same?

 

Thanks in advance

LOOOL don't worry about that, the reason its so high is because the engine spent most of its time idling or being driven slowly , which consumes fuel like crazy, especially when its new. I get like 35L /100km when I reset the trip computer and sit in the parking lot for 30 mins. Just ignore it, break in the engine, after about 400 km you'll see a change, then once break in is over after ~1200 -1500 km you'll get a consistent reading.

 

Does this mean you're ready to spend $7k on new SS lines?

LOL. Not yet, first I'll get a better set of pads, then maybe some better rotors.