Beezz

Whenever its less than 70 degrees outside this problem occurs. When it slips, its within the first few minutes of driving, R to D and D to R is the worst, 2nd to 3rd is usually flaky as well. I can see the rpm dip as soon as I push the gas pedal. The rpm continues to fluctuate while the trans figures out which gear to get into, then once it selects the gear its almost like the clutches disengage the trans and the engine rpm surges down then up. Then when it catches finally the rpm levels out and then the car moves.

A comparison to the R to D and D to R issue is being in a car with someone who's learning to drive stick. The car just lunges when starting off.

The odd thing about the grinding is when I am stopped and shift from drive to neutral the grinding stops, when I shift back to drive the grinding comes back and the trans slams into gear. (The slamming isn't that noticeable while driving) The slamming is distinctly different than rough or hard shifts, it makes audible sounds.

I drove the dealers 15 sport a few times and it had the same amount of kms yet had none of the issues I have described (driven in same type of weather). Maybe my transmission is just a dud.

I would go to an independent shop and see if they can spot the problem. It could be suspension, steering, tires, etc. Do you have electric steering or hydraulic? Electric steering sometimes needs recalibration to fix these types of issues.

Checked out a few places, most said I would have to pay the full alignment cost even if they only checked to see if the angles were out of spec (and didn't adjust anything). L O L.

Its electric assist steering. I have noticed that the steering wheel moves slightly even without input and without changing road surfaces. I am going to ask the dealer to look at the steering system. Thank you for pointing out this angle to the problem.

At 24'000 km's.

After cold starts, the trans slips/ has a long delay in actually moving when I press the gas (it hesitates). For about 2-3 minutes after a cold start whenever I am sitting at a red light / stop sign there is a large amount of vibration and noise transferred into the cabin. If I shift into neutral the vibration stops and the 'grinding' noise stops. If I stick it back into drive I can hear the transmission literally SLAM into gear and then the problem comes right back. After 5-10 ish minutes the problem subsides as the temps increase. I am seriously concerned about the longevity of this transmission now.

If I cross a solid line while going around a curve or sharp bend the lane keeping system pulls me even further over the line before deactivating from my steering effort. It sometimes pulls me over the line if the lane markings end while driving. Very odd behaviour, thankful I can turn the system completely off.

They claim only 59 vehicles are affected, but still the rest of us should be aware just in case.

FROM FORD:

"Ford issues safety compliance recall for certain 2015-16 Ford Edge vehicles to update antilock braking system (ABS) modules Ford is issuing a safety compliance recall for approximately 60 2015-16 Ford Edge vehicles to update antilock braking system (ABS) modules. Incorrect ABS module software may have been loaded into some vehicles when they were in for service. The incorrect software could disable electronic stability control (ESC), engine torque control, traction control (T/C), the warning lamp/indicator, the electronic parking brake (EPB) light and the EPB drive-away release function. ABS and electronic brake distribution (EBD) remain fully functional and the EPB can be applied. Ford is not aware of any accidents or injuries associated with this issue. Affected vehicles include certain 2015-16 Ford Edge vehicles built at Oakville Assembly Plant, Feb. 9, 2015 to Aug. 12, 2016, which may have had software programmed during service between Aug. 6, 2016 and Sept. 28, 2016. There are approximately 59 vehicles affected including 53 in the United States, three in Canada and two in Mexico"

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM542567/RMISC-16V733-8204.pdf

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM545509/RCMN-16V733-0260.pdf

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM542566/RCMN-16V733-4333.pdf

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM542683/RCAK-16V733-1725.pdf

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM541457/RCLRPT-16V733-5077.PDF

I agree, when you spend this much money on a vehicle and claim to compete with the likes of BMW, you should make a product worthy of this. I have had similar issues on my 11 Edge sport. The more people don't take these things for granted and call them out for what they are, the more likelihood that Ford will eventually pay more attention to details.

Dont even care about their bmw comparison, the Hyundai Sante-fe sport and Nissan Murano both had better fit and finish than the edge. both directly compete with the edge.

 

And the more the new vehicles will cost. Ford knows how to "pay attention to details" but they choose to save the money and reduce the cost to the customer.

lol cost reduction = 64 grand pre-discounts. It would take 1 employee 5 minutes to run through a vehicle and check things that I mentioned and flag them to be fixed. Sure that might raise costs, but minimally. Most people would pay a few hundred more knowing that they wouldn't have QC issues.

not to get off topic but Beez did you dip or wrap your emblems?

Dipped , wasnt that bad, but over spray was nasty, even with masking off the entire rear. dip has held up well to 1 winter and dozens of pressure / hand washes.

door might not be aligned or seated properly, check the gaps between the door and the body.

I guess this is magic then...

 

The sound of our people

I also have this issue. Mine is a 2015 Titainium and we have been having issues. Ours seem to act up first thing in the morning when we come to a stop sign on our street. The stop sign is about 20 feet from the car and it will go off but only once in the morning, if we pass it later that day it won't go off. Dealer can't seem to find out what's wrong. It goes off like your going to hit it.

I have the exact same problem. It happens at the same stop sign, same location, every day. For the last month mine has been going into red alarm mode whenever I leave a parking lot and there's a sidewalk/ curb.

Why the shit did Ford use micro2 and micro3 fuses on the inside panel. I cannot find a single place that sells micro fuse taps, or micro fuses in Ontario. Only option is to buy them online and wait 3 months to get them from china. Luckily the fuse taps are available on dash cam websites.

Update: Dealer sells the fuses for 10 bucks a piece. Haven't been able to find anything online that actually fits correctly.

What is everyone using this winter?

Here's what I'm thinking :

Tires: Continental Winter Contact SI 245-50-20 or the Bridgestone Blizzak DMV2

Rims: http://www.1010tires.com/Wheels/Winter+Rims/Touren+TR60/3260-2814Gw?vehicleid=136456 or http://www.1010tires.com/Wheels/Replika/R189/R189-2085-31BN-45C634?vehicleid=136456(another member has these ones : http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/21366-see-my-new-black-20-inch-winter-rims/)

Anyone have experience with either of these tires?

Are these the ones you got Tjm623 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/301730569779?var=600561445762 ?? (says they fit 2015 +)

Only reason is the alignment shops charge $300+ in my area ( for a 4 wheel alignment) and I didn't want to spend that if the dealer would 'fix' it for free. But considering they messed up twice now, I dont have a choice.

Too bad the price doesn't make sense, $559.99 USD for the MRT mufflers.

I'm booking my 3rd 4-wheel alignment since June. 1st one was at 10000 km's 2nd one at 13000 km's and now this one at 21000 km's. The techs who have worked on my car don't know wtf they are doing. Both times I didn't get a printout of what the before and after angles were (apparently the printer on their multi-thousand dollar machine wasn't working). The tires were so far out of alignment from the factory that the 1st time I didn't get charged (abnormal tire wear and car pulled to the left) . The second time was because the car continued to pull heavily to the left. And now after a 1500 km road trip the front tires are abnormally worn, and the car was a pain to keep straight on the highway.

I have to get this alignment done properly since I am switching to a set of winter tire's and rims I really dont want the tires to get worn in badly. Hopefully its done correctly this time, I'm not looking forward to wasting another 3 hours at the dealership.

And for those wondering, no I haven't run over any nasty potholes between any of the alignments.

See but that's the issue, I have dirt and water going onto the door jambs/sills as well.

Dealer service guys said there was nothing they could do. Talked to the collision centre manager and he said even if they replaced all the weather stripping the problem wouldn't be fixed, went on to say its a design flaw. IMO: Realistically if the weatherstripping was thicker, or the doors were aligned to close tighter, nothing would be getting in, except on the rear doors where the wheel well meets the bottom of the door.

Has anyone actually gotten their dealer to replace the weatherstripping along the bottom of the doors free of charge? The inner parts of my doors are always getting covered in road grime and mud and there are small rust spots forming already. I'm going to let my dealer take a look soon.

I tried the new set of bulbs, same issue. I used a multi meter to check the voltage from each terminal in the socket and couldn't get any readings. Guess I will have to custom wire them next spring.

Every single 15+ edge I've seen has misaligned body panels, which is sad. If the gap is super bad then sure you should take it to the dealer (pray they don't break clips), or if you know how adjust the panel yourself. I removed my rear bumper for another purpose and when I put it back on it the gaps were much closer and aligned. Its up too you, if it bothers you then perhaps get the dealer to look at it, but if there is a big chance they could break something then just dont bother.

Sorry I posted not realizing your links had video

Clips (I had just woken up). Definitely doesn't seem to be a software issue.

 

I am interested to hear if you figure out a fix / find a better brand. I want a set of these

I think the bulbs might just be defective, I ordered another set just to be sure. If they dont work the second time around then its definitely got to do with the factory wiring.

Yeah I don't think it is software related either but surprises do happen. What concerns me is how does the switchback operate? The OEM bulb is single filament which would dictate power and ground. Guessing the parking light function is sent a lower voltage and the turn signal at a higher voltage. I didn't use a switchback LED in mine and have no issues. I am just thinking things out loud at this point. I would test the wiring for the bulb socket and compare that to how the LED is supposed to function?

The bulbs should be operating with the 3 separate connections in the 7440 connector, but since the oem bulb was single filament, 1 wire supplies the power to 2 connections, so it would indicate one connector gets a constant voltage when the parking lights are on, and the other gets a higher voltage with the turn signal. (there could be 2 wires running through the 1 sleeve though) However the factory bulbs do have a different connection than these leds, I think the oem bulbs have 1 less connecting wire coming out of them. The switchback should be getting a constant voltage from one connector and alternating voltage from another. I'll be sure to check the voltage when I get the new set of bulbs, dont want to deal with the housings taking 50 minutes to get back in xD.

Anyways: yesterday this was happening

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3KiK2mnNJqFVktTdlB1TlJubmcThey work for 5 seconds, then flicker, then work again... I wouldn't care if they flickered, as long as it is a consistent flicker it won't look odd.

Find the service manager and drag them with you to your car, if it is unlocked today, I suggest you do this as you drive off http://www.reactiongifs.com/r/cnvrtble.gif

On a more serious note, did they provide you with a free rental for the time being? Was your mkx leased or purchased (I find that people who paid in full don't really get the same attention from the dealer)

^ agreed

It does use a single filament bulb. What LED are you using? I just checked my 16 and do not have the pulsating while the vehicle is running. Is it actually doing this that you can see with the naked eye or just the video?

the bulbs : https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B017LHF2P2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1\

It actually pulsates like that to the naked eye.

Can I have a link for these switchbacks?

I believe you could get this to work by reprogramming the module that stores turn signal indicator lamp functionality (IPC?, maybe BCM). And disabling the bulb out notification. Though that's not the actual issue i believe it's what causes the hyper flash. I think jmr061 has done this on his '16

I'll probably have to ask the dealer to reprogram it then, the thing is, it doesn't seem like hyper flash because the rest of the lights signal properly. Like the switchbacks work properly when the key is in acc mode and the car is in gear, just not when the engine is running.

It does seem as though the resistors are not wired correctly (maybe)?

 

All functionality appears normal when engine is off. What brand bulbs are you using?

 

I have tried MULTIPLE brands of switchbacks (JMT, VLED, eBay) and only the diode dynamics have worked properly and I have been using them for well over a year (not so much a plug for them as they just work flawlessly for me).

 

I have a 2012, but I still had to wire a resistor in on both sides/turn bulbs of the car.

They were plug n play resistors with the 7440 connectors on both ends (one melted after being on for 1 minute LOL) I tried plugging them in, in both directions, same with the bulbs, but the bulbs wouldn't even power on with the resistors installed. The bulb out indicator went out though, so the resistors do work.

They are a set of AutoEC 744X bulbs. Could you link me to the diode dynamics bulbs.