Beezz

Has anyone purchased an access code to the motor craft website? Is it worth it? Are the service manuals up to date? https://www.motorcraftservice.com/ https://www.motorcraftservice.com/Purchase/ViewProduct - the 72 hr one makes the most sense If I do get a pass, I'll update this post with the results July 31st : Read the 4th Post, its a much better solution

Here is some pictures and details of my install of a 'raptor' grille on my 2015 Edge Sport. Click this link to go to my build log: Process: Jack up the car, remove the battery, headlight housings, and front wheels. Then start removing all the fasteners on the bottom of the bumper. Remove the fender liner fasteners. Pull the fender liners, disconnect the electrical connections on the driver side of the bumper. 5 connectors if you have the engine block heater, 4 if you don't. Remove the push pins on the intake cover. Detach the bumper by removing the 3 bolts on each side of the bumper where it meets the chassis. Remove the bolts holding the grille to the upper radiator/hood supports. Then carefully move the bumper. If you have the front view camera, you have to disconnect the washer and electrical connector before the bumper, grille, and chassis can be separated. Once you've got the bumper off the car, have fun with the clips that hold the grille onto the bumper. One clip is near a mounting tab for the wiring harness, be careful otherwise you may snap the grille at that point. There are 2 brackets screwed onto the grille that need to be transferred to the new grille The new grille snaps right into place, you can use the handle end of pliers to push on either side of the mounting tabs until you hear them click in. You can either remove the front camera and washer completely, or re mount them. I removed the washer, and remounted the camera between the O and the R. The view is obstructed, but still usable. The harness needs to be moved so it is less visible through the grille. It needs to slot in between the grille and bumper bar. You can then wire the lights on the grille if you wish. I ran mine off an ignition switched control panel I have. See this link: Got the grille from ebay, seller: autoparts-selection

Has anyone actually gotten their dealer to replace the weatherstripping along the bottom of the doors free of charge? The inner parts of my doors are always getting covered in road grime and mud and there are small rust spots forming already. I'm going to let my dealer take a look soon.

If someone with the 2.7 could please upload pictures of their oil pan assembly onto here. I think my dealer put the wrong pan on, and used sealent instead of the gasket.

I'm booking my 3rd 4-wheel alignment since June. 1st one was at 10000 km's 2nd one at 13000 km's and now this one at 21000 km's. The techs who have worked on my car don't know wtf they are doing. Both times I didn't get a printout of what the before and after angles were (apparently the printer on their multi-thousand dollar machine wasn't working). The tires were so far out of alignment from the factory that the 1st time I didn't get charged (abnormal tire wear and car pulled to the left) . The second time was because the car continued to pull heavily to the left. And now after a 1500 km road trip the front tires are abnormally worn, and the car was a pain to keep straight on the highway. I have to get this alignment done properly since I am switching to a set of winter tire's and rims I really dont want the tires to get worn in badly. Hopefully its done correctly this time, I'm not looking forward to wasting another 3 hours at the dealership. And for those wondering, no I haven't run over any nasty potholes between any of the alignments.

I am running into a very strange issue with these bulbs. When the engine is not running they operate normally, when the engine is running they flicker/strobe whenever the turn signal is activated. See the attached videos: Hazard ON, Engine OFF (same applies for turn signal activation) https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3KiK2mnNJqFZURfdFdpNEwzaVk Hazard ON, Engine ON (same applies for turn signal activation) https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3KiK2mnNJqFU282N2JGWUxjdXM Switchback function demo: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3KiK2mnNJqFZ1VwT0l1dVFjRWc With headlights on they are dimmed to white, turn signal activates amber flashing In all cases it doesn't matter what lighting mode is selected, when the engine is off the turn signals don't flicker/strobe , when the engine is on they do flicker/strobe. I have tried using an inline resistor and it did absolutely nothing. I have seen the turn signals work properly when the engine is running, but its once in a blue moon. Anyone know what is going on?

Ive had the same kit sitting for 2 months in the garage, no damn time to install. Plan to do brake fluid, ss lines, rear swaybar, F/R links, caliper covers, and winter tire swap all at the same time. Any tips for the install? Any issues with the install? Did your pads have any chipping on them? I ordered 2 sets of front and rear pads and the fronts both have chipping. (ordered everything from rock auto) Thanks!

For anyone not in the United States purchase from here: https://www.globalindustrial.ca/p/motors/collars/power-transmission-collars/metric-two-piece-clamping-collar-gm2c-30-ss or try out amazon in your region. Fastenal is also a good place to check. Since McMaster doesn't ship to international non business/ non school customers. global industrial also has black oxide steel collars, but if you're in Canada like me, you will be much better off with the stainless ones.

Has anyone been able to get their hands on an oil catch can for their Edge? I've seen many options for the F-150 2.7 Ecoboost, but none for the Edge. Also a secondary question, I read somewhere on the forums that someone with a LMS tune no longer had that funky smell entering the cabin under hard accelerations, can anyone else confirm this?

LOOL, I'm going on my 4th oil pan soon. Considering the 3rd one was done in a manor similar to described above, and it started leaking the same day I got the edge back, I feel like letting the engines sit for those 4 hours to cure the RTV may help. It could also be warpage from letting the engine run too soon after the pan is applied and/or heat warpage in general.

Found out no there was no adaptive cruise in the 15's after purchase, even though the sales sheets said the car would be equipped with it.

Can't say for sure, but a catch can couldn't hurt.

Checked the can after 5000km of winter driving. It had about 350 mL of liquid (more water than oil). So apparently it does work, but not very well in the summer. The front one remained empty, but the main rear can was fairly full. Also removed the stainless wool before the winter.

Haven't seen any available You can get that grille on ebay too now, a few sellers have it. It looks like the clips are the same as the stock and raptor grille.

1) Remove the under body shield on the oil pan side , bunch of torx heads and a few plastic clips. 2) The drain plug faces the ground, uses a torx bit I believe. Remove and drain. 3) Measure the fluid you got out, should be around 700 ml. Probably will be metallic looking from wear. 4) Clean the drain plug, should be some metal on the magnetic end of it. Re-install (2015 Torque spec is 33 lb.ft) 4) The fill plug is directly under the rear turbo, same style as the drain plug (See 1004Ron's post). 5) Grab some 75W-140 gear oil, I recommend AMSOIL Severe Gear, or Motorcraft. 1 bottle per flush you plan on doing. 6) Fill with a hand pump, roughly 650 ml, at about 700 ml the fluid will start to spill out of the fill port. Total fill capacity is 700 ml. 7) After you get the roughly 700 ml in and it stops dripping, put the plug back in, clean any metal off the magnet. (2015 Torque spec is 33 lb.ft) 8) Re-install the under-body shield. 9) Drive it and then check for leaks, if you plan on doing multiple flushes drive enough to heat up the oil. The oil that comes out smells horrible, so enjoy! Depending on your mileage you might also want to get an oil analysis done. OAI Testing is pretty good.

If I dont have to pay for it........ then yes Everyone with the RX systems seems to be catching a good amount of fluid. RX is the way to go.

Hopefully I'll finally put 3 packs of Dynamat (36sqft each) and 50 lbs of poly-fill into the edge some point this month. Had them sitting in the basement for like 6 months now. Dynamat is on sale at Amazon for 220CAD right now, even cheaper in the states last time I checked. Poly-fill (on the inside) might help to fill in the trunk side panels and under floor, plus its easy to remove if you dont glue it in. Carpet underlay is another good option as well. For the outside a rubberized undercoating is the way to go!

UPR SUCKS BIG TIME. I'm at ~ 18 '000 km now. I drain both cans at least at each oil change which is ~ every 5000 km. They never have more than a thin coating of fluid in them, even added SS wool, it helped a little. As to driving habits, I drive the car hard, always getting into boost and its tuned. This was mainly in summer/spring conditions so that does impact what is collected. I'll be updating that topic thread after the winter. Also, I had the kit installed since the initial quote was cheaper than me buying it paying shipping, duties and taxes and wonderful handling fees. I had to buy the lms tuner, which would've been brutal to pay taxes and duties on. It was just cheaper to have everything done by lms. But after it was installed the labour cost was double of the quote, but nothing I could do. The kit is not meant to fit well in the edge, the lines bend far more than they should, the rear can is a PITA to remove and drain. Get another companies kit, they are cheaper, more compact, and overall better. UPR SUCKS.

I've got this one : aFe Power 31-10260 Magnum FLOW Performance Air Filter (Dry, 3-Layer) non-oiled, also fits the fusion sport i believe

That would've looked pretty nice, maybe she'll change her mind. Thanks, its some 3m gloss black vinyl. Used to have plastidip surrounding the perimeter of the hood

Got the grille from ebay, seller: autoparts-selection They even helped me out with the cost of repainting the grille, plus it only took like a week for it to arrive. Here is the link to their store: http://stores.ebay.ca/autopartsselection/?_dmd=2&_nkw=Ford+Edge (note that the listings expire)

Thank you! And lol only drove it for 2 hours since its been on. Got 1 thumbs up so far Wrapping the honeycomb would be pretty challenging. It comes as a metallic matte grey, mine was missing paint and was scratched so I had to repaint. Got it painted a semigloss metallic black. Heres some other shots:

I had experienced the same hard shifting, even got the gears to grind on a full throttle run (sounded liked death). I emailed my sales rep at LMS, and he forwarded my message and questions to the tune guys. I got a call about 30 minutes later, they explained that until the computer relearned the shifting strategy it would feel very abrupt. The biggest thing is that once you load a tune, DO NOT floor it or drive it super aggressively for the first 100-200 km's. The computers need to relearn the shifting firmness and other sensory data. Another possibility is the traction control systems are cutting power when you're driving aggressively causing the harsh shifting. Even still, on a cold start, for the first 5 minutes or so the shifting is firmer than it will be once things get up to temperature. I'm running the 91 Perf Aggressive tune.