Beezz

Thoughts on the following:

http://www.bondedlogic.com/ultraliner-sound-blanket/

http://www.bondedlogic.com/ultratouch-radiant-barrier/

http://www.bondedlogic.com/ultrasonic-unfaced-panel-pack/

http://www.bondedlogic.com/ultratouch-denim-insulation/(fill in space around things in the body panels etc)

http://www.mobilesolutions-usa.com/store/p961/Soundskins_Sound_Deadener_Kits.html

Dynamat is pretty expensive here so I'd like to avoid using it.

Had my dealer take a look a few months ago, they couldn't replicate the problems and called it a day. My dashcam recorded them checking the trans for about 30 seconds and then moving on, so idk how the expected to replicate the problem in 30 seconds. During the test drive they let the car warm up prior to taking it out, which I told them not to do since the issues aren't as apparent when things have warmed up (in writing left in the car for the tech and on the drop of form).

For the past 2 weeks almost every time I shift from reverse to drive there is a even longer delay after I push the gas, and then about 5 seconds after the car moves there's a loud thump/bang coming from the back. Sounds like the rear differential or something along that drive-line is not being engaged when it should be, then it sounds as if I'm grinding a gear. Ill have another dealer check the transmission/driveline out this time.

 

Hey Beezz, it has been a few months. I wanted to check in on how the exhaust work is going. Very curious on your plans and if installed what you did, how it sounds and any lessons learned?

Hey there Titan, I honestly haven't gotten much done. The shop I'm working with was unable to source a good muffler for the rear and they told me once they find one thats going to suit the build they'll let me know. Its been a few weeks since I talked with them, the last update is they are trying to source the MRT muffler only, but haven't had any luck. I've been super busy with school and haven't had much time to spend on the edge. The next update will probably will be in late May when I'm done with exams and have had time to check out some other shops. I'll definitely post back if anything changes. Im calling LMS soon about some other things so I'll see what they say about an exhaust.

Update March 10th: Can't source the MRT muffler from vendors here, moving on to another shop.

Thought I'd leave this here.

 

 

 

 

 

My recommendations in order of purchase.

 

Better brake fluid (Dot 4 vs Dot 3) -

 

This and bleeding the system will greatly help pedal feel and heat resistance (foot to floor issue from boiling brake fluid after repeated high speed stops)

 

Better Pads - take your pick. Better pads have more friction and heat dissipation preventing fade from repeated high speed stops. More aggressive pads wear quicker and will eat up your rotors faster.

 

Larger vented rotors - Increase surface area (larger rotor > drilled/slotted).

 

Larger Calipers - More even pad pressure being applied along with greater pressure. Larger caliper allows for larger pad which increases surface area which increases brake performance.

 

Stainless Lines - These really only come into play under high heat conditions. The stock lines (from the caliper to the hard line which allows suspension movement) are thick rubber and as they heat up, allow expansion. Normal street vehicles will not experience this as the lines do not get hot enough. Stainless lines prevent this expansion under high heat conditions.

 

 

 

 

Haha, Jason the man.

All great suggestions to look over this spring, thank you!.

There's always this option

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8epPWB6ZdvaclljVG9UZkJMY3F0ODIyYnM4SmRUd0NmMGNN/view?usp=sharing

Nick I still haven't found a buyer for one of my kidneys xD

& here i thought that paying $365 for a catch can was high. Just at a glance, it looks like a decent kit, but 20-30 install time seems a little far fetched.

Oh believe me when I saw the estimate I choked. I asked if we could use the other kits available but they said they've had problems with them in the past. It does seem like a good kit, the hoses probably will have to be modified and the only parts that are useful are the connectors and cans themselves.

 

After they do that, are they then going to sell a kit, the rest of us can buy?

I will ask them

Update March 10th, what I was told on the phone "it won't be a one day deal, we need time to engineer it properly". I can assume that if they want to 'engineer' the kit to fit, they intend on selling one afterwards for others to use.

I sent them a message a few days ago asking if they had a kit for the Edge, and still waiting for a reply - that reflects poorly on a manufacturer and supplier.

They don't have a kit for the Edge, no one does for the 2.7 Edge. They are super busy, when I first contacted them they were booking into April. Im going to be booked in for May (due to my own schedule)

Deposit? They developing a kit specifically for our setup, or do they already have one? Pricing?

They are going to try to adapt the UPR kit for the 2.7 F150 to fit the Edge. Its $500 for the kit plus about $250 in labour.

I'm a new Sport owner, and was tempted to go with the 3.5L V6 because of concerns with boosted direct injection engines intake fouling.

 

This thread has been very quiet and a search revealed only this thread, so does that mean owners aren't experiencing this problem - keen to hear feedback before buying one of these UPR kits.

I will say that I have buildup on the intake tract and the pcv connections have dripped when removed, my map sensor was coated aswell. I also noticed that my engine is burning / using a significant amount of oil every 5000 kms.

I've been talking with LMS about getting one of the UPR kits installed and I'm putting down a deposit for the project tomorrow, hopefully to have it installed and setup by the end of May.

On the hidden one I just loop the 4 pin through the chain hooks when its not in use, if it is then just grab a rubber band and strap it to the receiver. You could also get a mount from the store that you can glue onto a side of the receiver. Or since the heat shield has to be removed you could attach a mount to one of the holes on the diffuser.

I have the worst luck ever. I ordered the z23 (k5452) kit and it arrived today. Guess what... It doesn't fit second gen edges. Every single website I looked at said it fit the 2015 Sport with the 2.7 v6 in awd format. But this kit actually only applies up to the 2014/15 1st gen edges. Front rotors are about 1 inch to small, and the rears are about 1/2 inch too big.

Walnut shell blasting is the way some pros do it, others might just scrape off the buildup with small tools and then vacuum the soot out. Intake manifold has to come off for sure to have enough access to the intake tract and valves.

There is a post of someone installing a catch can on the 2.0 very recently !

You do risk damaging your turbos if you put in too much cleaner, they aren't meant to ingest that much soot and flammable liquid/vapour. A manual cleaning will be the safest but most time consuming way to tackle the buildup. I have heard that most of the time a dealership has to fix misfiring due to carbon buildup they manually clean everything.

Lamin-x has a film pre-cut for the front headlights. Dont get their rear kit as it only covers a portion of the taillight. The film for the fronts is very thick, it will reduce your light output but it looks good. The rears I got tinted from a local shop for 150 CAD, they said around the ford logo was a pain since the film has to stretch so much. Any high quality film will work well, just see what a local shop offers. All in for the fronts, window tint, and tails I spent about 300

Referring to these types:

https://www.amazon.ca/Car-Rover-Headlight-Arc-Beam-Conversion/dp/B01I3GKI0O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486401934&sr=8-1&keywords=d3s+led

https://www.amazon.ca/NEVERLAND-Headlight-Conversion-Driving-9600LM/dp/B01EUY2Y0A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486401743&sr=8-1&keywords=h15+led+90+w

They definitely draw close to their rated wattage, but yeah nothing over factor wattage. They also dont have 9600lm just purely sales pitch.

no, your only problem will be less focused light than halogen and blinding oncoming traffic

But the LED is 80W halogen equivalent, it only uses 16W power, then that's not a problem?

Think he's just talking about the hid equipped edge DRL upgrade, so no concern of blinding traffic.

If you go up to a true 80W fan/fin cooled LED for the h15 then yeah you'll be blinding everyone and be burning up wiring

For the lettering: You can get plastidip in gloss black, or use the matte black and do 1 -2 top coats with their clear gloss plastidip. It actually holds up well (over 1 year on mine now did about 10 coats) One trick to get a smooth finish is to let the cans sit in warm water for 10 mins prior to spraying, and then keep them warm between coats.

Or you can order some lettering off ebay and just use a heat gun to remove the chrome ones. (just create a template to have the new lettering aligned properly)

Speed pack may very well be what they called it before? Maybe there isnt even a limiter on any of them lol, no one is about to do 148+ mph in an edge.... normally... (I hope xD)

deep down for my vin it does say " Less Preprogrammed Speed Limit " "Less Electronic Speed Limitation"

maybe ford didn't include that info for Gen 1?

and LOL "limit the limiter"

Could check the vin on http://www.etis.ford.comif they have a limiter it should be included on the build data.

It took the tech exactly 2 1/2 hours to replace the brake booster, and my god its a difference of night and day

Yessir, noticed that last night in the files

Im losing brain cells digging further into this.

They scratched the mating surface on the underside of the engine. It appears they didn't change the oil filter (80% certain, going to wait to pull it out until I meet with the GM to show him). The tech thought my exhaust pipe and radiator cover was the appropriate place to wipe the sealant on his/her fingers off. There's engine oil all over the exhaust. They spilled engine oil on the engine and hood latch mechanism, apparently they don't know how to use a rag.

I'm meeting with the GM to let him know about this utter incompetence.

Mine is going in tomorrow morning, technician told me he needs it for at least 3 hours. Its a fairly simple repair but time consuming. Your dealer will have to be able to replicate the issue before they order the part under warranty. Which will mean they'll need it for 3 -4 hours to confirm the pedal sensitivity. If you're lucky and the issue is replicate-able as soon as you take it to them you'll be out quick. But the replacement will take some time.

Ah alright as long as it is a liquid gasket then maybe this is normal. My factory pan had no sealent oozing out from the mating surfaces,it appeared to have a gasket. This one does, it's everywhere. And yeah the oil pan is same color, same texture. But it doesn't seem to mate to the original surface. I can see a clean mating surface, with 'gasket' lines and residue from the old oil pan. The drain plug is the updated one from the f150. And it looks like there is more heat shielding on the pan. The biggest reason I am puzzled is because their reason for replacing the entire oil pan was that the gasket only came with a new one. So why would they have used 'rtv' to seal this?

With some black rtv type stuff ?

If someone with the 2.7 could please upload pictures of their oil pan assembly onto here. I think my dealer put the wrong pan on, and used sealent instead of the gasket.