Beezz

Looks good! How did you do that Black on the Hood?

Thank you ! It was just Plasti Dip and some creative taping, it looks like a botched job (sprayed at 40 °F). But it's holding up well to 30 rock chips now.

That light never used to turn red because the cross street has no traffic. But guess they decided to activate the cycle in preparation for the opening of the street.

 

I think its worth noting my edge had 80 Km put on it at the factory for testing, so the brakes could have been improperly bedded during that time.

2 weeks ago the grabby brake syndrome hit real hard. The car was sitting outside in the freezing cold for ~4 hrs, I was leaving a parking lot and had to stop to let someone cross and as soon as I touched the pedal the brakes locked up and triggered abs. This is after taking it to the dealer to have the brake system looked at for the second time. They gave me the runaround like usual, didn't even document a brake inspection on the work order. Last week I dropped it off at another dealer, they called me back after 1 hr saying they ordered a new booster and agreed that the brakes were way to touchy. So after this booster replacement the brake discs and pads are going to be switched out to the z23 kit and I plan on switching out the lines eventually.

Ive actually got the same camera, I ended up running the rear cable through the top part of the headliner above the windsheild, down/ behind the a pillar trim, underneath the door sills, and then along the floor (under the carpet or trim pieces) then up the rear door weatherstripping, through the c pillar trim and then out up to the inner trunk lid ( the camera wouldn't work properly on the rear window due to the angle) and then i stuck it onto the rear hatch trim with some adhesive.

Got the 3rd one done at the dealer, this time even the steering wheel angle was off. Pulls a lot less now, fairly happy with the result. The steering wheel is still slightly crooked when driving straight. Dealer once again didn't give me a copy of the before/ after angles. I had to annoy the service manager to get the 'after' angles.

That could be a result of a faulty wheel sensor, considering the amount of technology that controls our vehicles now. Were you driving straight, or at an angle? An angle on the wheels could have triggered traction control if you accelerated to the point where a wheel lost traction, but power should have kicked right back in once traction was regained. A connector could be loose somewhere, your dealer should be able to determine where the fault is coming from if they can replicate the situation while hooked up with a scan tool.

 

 

AWD is active when starting (always), at low speeds, flooring it (up to a point), or when the system recognizes inclement conditions. It shuts off when the pedal input is light to normal, at high speeds, and when the computer thinks you dont need the rear wheels to be powered.

 

 

"dont buy it for snow" yet to encounter snow that it can't get through. But, the rear wheels only turning is super strange because this awd system is heavily fwd biased so there is certainly something wrong and your dealer should have done more than just reset the ecu/pcu.

I was surprised aswell, either the rear glass has a different composition than the front or the blade that was used was harder than the glass. Luckily in your case the side windows should be laminated and won't break as easily.

Finally got these in after 5 weeks of waiting

Tires: Continental Wintercontact Si 245-50-20 Rims: Niche Targa 20X8.5

Here's one option http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2015-2016-Ford-Edge-4pc-Door-Sill-Step-Protector-Threshold-Shield-Pads-Cover-/282133724754?fits=Year%3A2015%7CMake%3AFord%7CModel%3AEdge&hash=item41b07afe52:g:5gcAAOSwMtxXrjSy&vxp=mtr

 

Or as Burrcold said, grab some 3M vinyl / protection film and just cut and fit it however you please. I used some 3M 1080 carbon fiber vinyl off amazon and ended up with a decent result.

 

I tried using the Micro Fuse to attach my Escort Radar detector using their smart cord. Unfortunately the micro fuse doesnt work for me as the legs that protrude into the socket are too short and I get no power. Any ideas?

 

I have a Focus ST and that worked like a charm, i figured it would be just as easy but the location of the fuse box is ridiculous.

Are the fuse taps legs shorter than the oem micro2 fuse?

If not; insert it and right before it should lock in, try to push at an angle toward the firewall (gently) and the fuse tap should lock in enough to stay in place.

So the shop that I got some tinting done from accidentally cut into the glass on the rear hatch. Spoke with them already. The question is, should I get the windshield replaced or repaired? The cut can be seen and felt. Its pretty deep, on the outer edge of the glass. Insurance deductible is high for the shop and for myself, so any suggestions other than going through insurance would be great.

Yeah the lower panels have to be taken out first, luckily its fairly easy, remove the trunk loading trim piece(held on with some bolts and clips) and then the large left and right side pieces are one complete assembly so just pry them off carefully. I sent you a message with some of the manual info that'll hopefully help.

Just checked the shop manual and it looks like you have to remove the entire c/d pillar trim panel. However it isnt clear whether the speaker cover is just snapped in or if its a part of the entire trim panel. It looks more like its snapped in, but from the backside.

Do your rattles get worse during temperature changes?

Mine may be the result of having the stereo up too loud (obviously to drown out every other piece of trim in this car that rattles)

May have increase the loudness by 10% not much at all. It did add an awful rasp and crackling sound that reminded me to much of the rice cars with the big fart cans on them.

Duly noted, slightly disappointing though.

 

Will do titan01, not sure when everything will be completely done by. It'll probably take some time to get the sound right.

gjb89, good read, the poster 'ecoboosted's system does sound pretty good, they did end up quieting it down though. We'll see how bad the edge drones soon enough.

 

Update 12/01/17: In about 3 weeks I'll be having specifics about the system back from the shop (their exhaust guys are taking time off) total is going to be around $1000 CAD for them to do a complete cat back install. I'll post back with pics and whatnot whenever it gets finished

The rear muffler is literally caked in carbon... can only imagine what the valves look like now. And as wwwperfa_zn0w said, slugging doesn't do it any good either, cause low rpm acceleration usually makes more boost and burns more fuel as opposed to quickly up shifting and accelerating. Either way, 350km/tank is so bad, something is definitely up. cds71, I think that kp613's trip meter is lying about the 7.2L/100 km as kp613 said they only get 420km/tank at most, which would mean the trip meter should read something 15+L/100km (at 420 km/68 L) which is crazy for mixed driving.

Too tinny or too loud with the resonator out?

Have a consultation with a shop next week for a custom exhaust. I asked them how much just for a rear muffler delete/replacement and it was only 150 CAD installed. There is a reason why I think the MRT system is stupidly priced.

Having my oil pan replaced soon, its been leaking since day 1. I assumed the oil was just coming from the drain plug as the tech who did the first oil change did a super sloppy job (I even had oil on my headlights). But while I was doing the last oil change I accidentally bumped into the felt covers and oil began to drip down onto me, looked up to the mating surfaces on the pan and realized it was fckd. Luckily dealer decided to order the entire oil pan assembly as opposed to just patching it up.

Anyone have suggestions on how to minimize the speaker and door panel rattles on the 15+ edges. I have had the dealer take a look and their fix was to turn the bass and mid-range down to negative 3 (LLLLLLOOOOOOOOLLLLLLLL) Everything rattles at 30% + volume with the sound settings all at zero (or neutral). Shit shouldn't rattle like this from the factory, with factory sound settings.

 

In the spring I plan on tearing apart the door panels and stuffing sound deadening materials everywhere, and trying to rubber tape the speakers points of contact with surfaces etc.

Yeah thats not normal at all then, have the dealer take a look. 350 in the city is horribly low for the 2.0L. I drive like a goon and still get 450-550 km to a tank in mixed with the 2.7L.

Hey there. Just purchased a new 16' Ford Edge SEL 2.0L AWD.

 

I am getting about 7.2L / 100km. Not more than 420km per tank. I personally find this to be horrible. Is this an issue with these vehicles? Is this just mine that is so low.

 

What is the average most of you are getting?

7.2L / 100km is good. The 2.0L is rated worse than what you're getting. But if you max out at 420 km / tank then the computer is lying about your fuel economy. Its probably closer to the city rating of the 2.0L. I have seen my fuel econ get worse since the start of winter, which is expected. And as lildisco said, if the engine isnt broken in yet then that also impacts it aswell.

Canadian Tire had Pennzoil ultra platinum for around $35 for a 5 L jug recently, normally $60 each.

You can also submit a rebate request http://www.pennzoil.com/en_ca/promotions/do-it-yourself-oil-change/promotion-1b.html

There is probably something similar for the USA, and other oil brands.

Use what will match your driving habits and requirements. Looked in owners manual at the 2.7 Specs Chart:

 

Recommended motor oil (U.S.): WSS-M2C946-A

 

So Full Synthetic or Blend is fine according to Ford.

My solution was to put M-D Building Products 1033 & 1025 weather stripping wherever it would still allow the doors to close. 90% of the dirt stays out now. Just cut some drain holes to meet the door drains and you'll be safe. Use whatever thick and thin weatherstripping you can get that has a strong adhesive.

 

Anyone else hate how dirty our rear hatches get? The amount of turbulence the 2nd gen creates is surprising (super visible driving in rain)

I found that the fuses that are labeled unused or spare in the manual are still powered (with both acc and batt function). I also found 2 fuses labeled unused in the manual that had the fuse plugged in the 'correct' way, which was odd because the rest of the 'unused' fuses were plugged in so the numbers were upside down. Given this, I assumed I could tap into any of them as long as it was done safely.

I've been running a dashcam off fuse 37 (used fuse 23 for 2 months) (fuse 37 is for the heated steering wheel which I dont have) and fuse 16 for 5 months now without any problems. Has anyone had issues with 'add a fuse' connectors not staying plugged into the fuse socket? Mine wouldn't stay in so I had to put a piece of tape across the fuse box. I put the ground underneath another ground located behind the slide out tray towards the steering column.

Fuse taps:

https://www.blackboxmycar.com/collections/blackboxmycar-essential-installation-tools/products/add-a-fuse (micro 2 option)