Beezz

Subframe alignment sounds expensive, might ask for the control arms to be looked at. And I think the tires aren't directional. The tires were re-balanced this time before the alignment. And I did ask to get the steering modules reprogrammed after the 3rd one, not sure if it was actually done. The tires were rotated, but I'll rotate them again soon since the fronts are still feathering on the outside edges.

2000 km on factory tune, both cans were empty. Did an oil change. Put another 7000 km over the last month with the LMS 91 Aggressive tune. I'm going to change the oil soon and check the cans out again. If they are empty, ill add in stainless steel wool and see if that helps catch stuff over 500 km.

4th one done last month at my new dealer. Its slightly better, but the pull to the left is still there, alignment angles are within spec.

So there is a collar that is twisted after you insert the bulb (1) Picture attached. If the bulb is still loose then I'm not sure what you can do besides use heat resistant tape and secure it.

I'm looking to install an oil air separator as well on my 2016 2.7L. Maybe a stupid question (only had Edge for a few months now) but where is the pcv valve located on the 2.7 eco engine. I've seen tons of setup videos for the F150 but the intake and engine position is different on the Edge sport. Thanks guys

 

P.S glad to join the club

See post #30, there is a few pictures at the bottom showing the routing of my catch cans. Also there is 2 pcv valves for us, one on each cylinder bank.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/20911-27eb-oil-catch-can-lms-tune/?p=169892

2 tricks, do the change on a sunny day and leave the O-ring packet outside in the sun for 10 minutes. Or use a hair dryer and warm it up before putting it on. Its less of a PITA.

Changed my engine oil and oil filter and PTU oil today at 5.2K mi.

 

There was oil on the right rear corner of the oil pan, but I could not see where it came from and it was clear like new oil, so I'm suspecting that it was dropped when the engine was being topped up at the factory or dealer - cleaned it up and if I see more at the next service I'll lodge a warranty claim.

Might be an oil pan leak. Thats how mine started and then spread.

lots of turbo whine

To be fair, the search tool on the forum is frustrating. Usually have to dig through posts to find things.

Yeah 2 months back there was nothing for the Gen 2's besides OEM. But double checked after I posted and it looks like Rockauto has ones that fit the Gen 2 now. The link shows that there are all sorts of rotors and pads now. The tdotperformance link shows there are kits, but the dimensions dont match with the 15+ Gen 2's

I wasn't able to find anything aftermarket that actually fits the sport since we have slightly bigger rotors. Same goes for the pads. Powerstop has a kit that they say fits the 15 sport but when I tried installing it the rotors were 1 inch too big for the rear and 1 inch to small for the front, the widths were also off. We're stuck with OEM or the Rotora kit for now. There is some stuff from EBC and Stoptech that looked like it might fit but not 100% sure.

Rockauto would be best place to find OEM equivalent rotors aswell (had none at the time).

Rockauto Link : http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2016,edge,2.7l+v6+turbocharged,3330846,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896

Looks like there is replacements now, not sure on dimensions though.

Note for others: When searching for kits sometimes use 2016 as the year instead of 2015 if you own a 2015 because for some reason 2015 sport still includes Gen 1 edges which have different rotor sizes. Even though sites specify it fits the 15 edge sport with the 2.7L. (applies for non sports too)

See : http://www.tdotperformance.ca/2015-ford-edge-parts/performance-parts/brakes?part_type_filter_multi%5B0%5D=8658&pl=1

If i recall correctly the rear turbo is visible from underneath the car and there is a product code on it. Here's the ford part numbers, maybe they'll help.

http://www.discountfordpartsfromsoundford.net/FPSS-2016-Edge-Sport-Turbocharger-Components-s/422827.htm

Damn that's steep. Thank you for going out on a limb and doing this and sharing the pictures!

Yeah, at least it should postpone an intake cleaning. And no problem, hopefully people find it useful.

 

What was your cost out the door? Hardware and Labor breakdown if possible.

The UPR kit was 500 usd, and then labour was about 400 usd. Add shipping, waste fees and 6% sales tax. Total was 1018 USD out the door. Yeah I know the labor cost was high, but nothing I could do after the fact.

If you order the UPR kit and do it yourself you should be able keep it under 600.

Some labelled pictures (attached). The guide from UPR should also be consulted (I dont have a copy). The engine cover probably wont fit after installing all the hoses. The mounting of the CC's is a bit awkward but thats expected with the limited space. I'll also check which direction the check-valves are in when I get a chance to, but they should be facing away from the CC's on the rear. All in all LMS did a good job.

Guides:

There is videos and forum posts about the UPR kit not working, or not catching anything. I will update at my next oil change in about 2000 km with pictures of what was, or wasn't captured by the kit.

UPR Kit is installed. You can essentially buy the f150 kit and there is a few minor changes needed to make it 'fit' on the edge. The mounting for the cans is quite awkward. It'll be a pain to drain them, but since the smaller can is on the front side of the engine it'll be easy to guess when the larger one needs to be drained. LMS had the edge for 5 days to adapt the kit to it. It cost more than I had hoped. Ill post labelled pictures of the install soon. If you want to install it, it should be relatively simple considering you'll have an idea of what goes where.

Also I talked with both managers at my local dealer and they both said that the warranty isn't voided as long as any issues that come up aren't a direct result of the catch can system.

To interject into this shit-show:

Its 40% off whatever the list price is, for all the kits. (I emailed and asked)

I still think the price is high.

Overkill for street use but looks great. Also not a fan of drilled rotors (other than looks). Pay attention and check for cracks frequently.

Track.. street.. same thing.

(im kidding)

If you cant post the total cost to the forum could you pm me with it if its not the same as what they have listed online?

I found the dynamat at a semi decent price on amazon, I think ill use it with the sound insulation if I can get it. Linus Tech (in Vancouver) used the jean insulation to deaden their server room and it appeared to work well so I assume it should work well on a vehicle.

My advice is you generally get what you pay for, but I don't have any direct experience with this stuff.

What doesn't rattle on this car. Most likely the retainment clips need to be replaced.

Haha, 2 boxes of trim panel clips just came in on Thursday and I picked up 5 rolls of felt tape. Everything will be covered or replaced by the end.

Well, Beez, I suppose you are tracking fuel trims, along with cat temps? How do the LTFTs and STFTs look? I would think if the fuel trims look a bit wacky, there is a possibility of a leaky fuel injector, a known issue with GTDI engines. Are you seeing elevated temps on both banks?

Yeah, STFT looks like the engine is running rich, LTFT somewhat validates the engine is overall running rich aswell. And yes both banks have high temps, usually within 20 degrees of one another. I havent paid much attention to the o2 sensors yet (not enough room on the screen). When i have time ill data log over a few hours and then see whats happening.

Two reasons for wanting to know. The odd smell issue that occurs under high loading. I was doing some research and learned that if a large amount of unburnt fuel enters the cat it could produce a sulfur smell. Also when the cat heats up and you push the car the buildup inside will begin to burn off and produce a smell. The other reason is that I have been seeing temperatures above 1950 F (1050 C) consistently over a few months and was wondering if something was wrong with them. Obviously after harder than normal driving. Ill check the inlet, o2 sensor, and outlet temps at some point this month and see if they are actually running hot.

Anyone know what the max temp for the cats on the 2.7 EB are? I couldn't find anything in the service manual or online.

Do you think a different style hitch would work better? Like this one.

The safty chain hooks go down instead of out to the sides.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Ford/Edge/2016/75234.html?vehicleid=201642262

Thanks

I've got this hitch. I can say that the sensor will work, primarily on one side. I dont remember which side as I ended up blocking the sensor with other things.

You mentioned Towing in one of your earlier posts. What do you tow?

I towed a 4X7 rental trailer about 3 or 4 times with trees, stone etc. Kept the weight under 2000 lbs each time. Sometimes the cabin is loaded to the max. Do you think that either of these could have worn something down?

you have a twin turbo car and you just hop in and drive cold?

Its usually in an insulated garage. 1 minute warm up max if its been sitting outside during the winter. I take it easy until the engine has been at temp for a few minutes.

They had it running via remote start for like 7 minutes