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Yes, if you don't have the service history then treat it as if every routine service item is overdue, engine oil & filter, air filter, cabin filter, spark plugs, trans fluid, PTU, ........etc.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/need-to-level-out-the-front-drivers-seat.116469/#post-2448490 That is how I raised and leveled the seats in my wife's Mustang, and expect it should work for the Edge. Edit: keep in mind that you need two holes - one for the bolt and another for the dowel pin, so you'll need to drill a hole in the ones above in the Amazon link.

Is that the 2.0L Edge? Please add your vehicle Model/Year to your profile signature - Settings - Ford Edge Forum

Do a compression test and leak-down test. Switch the coils and see if the misfire code follows it. What did the old plugs look like, any one look different to the others?

STOP - This section is reserved for topics on how to use this site. DO NOT use this forum for Ford Edge discussion.

Going by the parts numbers, I've already done this recall. 20S42 - Recall for 2015-18 Edge and 2016-18 MKX - Brake Jounce Hoses - Page 2 - Recalls, TSBs & Warranty - Ford Edge Forum

On my 2017 Sport the original P-Zero's lasted 50K miles, and after that the Atturo lasted 31K miles. As the Atturo approached the wear bars, they were very bad on wet roads. My third set of tires just recently installed are Bridgestone Alenza AS Ultra 265 /40 R21 105V XL BSW and so far very happy with them - quiet and superb grip in the wet, and expect they'll be good in the snow.

Best get a decent OBDII device and with that use Forscan to scan for codes, or try Autozone or places like that.

What did you use to check for codes? Don't need the CEL on for codes to be stored. What's the mileage and is still under warranty?

OK

The rotten egg smell from the exhaust is the reaction of unburnt fuel in the Catalytic Convertor, and will shorten the life of the CAT. Get the error codes read - it could be a misfire due to a bad coil, or a bad injector, but the codes will be a good starting point.

Didn't the mechanic say what he thought is leaking and from where? If the source of the leak isn't clear, then clean it off and watch it in the hope of identifying the source.

Spotted a Typo.

The first one is Chinese and the second one Indonesian and hadn't heard of them until now. Not something I'd consider using.

That would help. What brand oil filter is installed - some filters don't have good anti-runback valves.

There isn't enough information to make an educated guess as to what is making the noise, and what could be causing it. For all we know it could be many thousand miles over on oil change - what's the oil look like on the dipstick?

What oil and oil filter have you been using and what oil change interval?

It doesn't take much to strip those plugs and/or the thread in the radiator. Post a photo of the two plugs together.

Take a look at RockAuto - they offer many brands, so just find one that's available in your country, or order online. 2011 FORD EDGE 3.5L V6 Brake Pad | RockAuto

The tests I described would confirm the condition of the boosters diaphragm - if you don't have a vacuum pump you could even do a rough assessment with a tube and your mouth.

What's the part number (code) of the brake pads that you bought, the ones you feel are too small?

Lets not forget the rear wheel drive coupler and transmission cooler. I recall that the RDU coupler is the achilles heel when it comes to towing with AWD vehicles.

Yes, you should most certainly have vacuum at the source/intake manifold. You should be able the test the effect of the brake booster with an alternate vacuum source - if you use a vacuum pump you should be able to draw vacuum on the booster and it should hold for hours. The vacuum booster is very good at holding vacuum - eg. if you get in the car many hours after it last ran, and press the brake without starting the engine, you can do that 3 to 4 times before the pedal gets hard, which is when the vacuum stored in the booster is depleted.

There will be a little more manifold vacuum available to the brake booster when selected to Park, so that might be the reason why the pedal feels easier to push. Most often the line from the manifold with its check-valve are exclusively used for the brake booster. I would test the brake booster to see if it holds vacuum - it should hold vacuum for days if there no leaks - also check the vacuum hose and its check-valve.