1004ron

Not sure who that comment was directed at? I always buy the concentrate and mix it 50/50 and the product details state clearly not to go higher than 60/40. My comment was to drain/fill a few times with distilled water and that way you would have removed about all of the old coolant mix, then go back with say a 60/40 mix knowing that the engine still contains some straight distilled water. I use a vacuum fill kit similar to this.

"Must have been RockAuto." - That doesn't sound like a confident response to me. Reliable code reading is the best starting point. .

The only way to get only the new coolant in the system is to do a few drain-fills with distilled water and then the final fill with a higher concentration of the new coolant expecting some distilled water to remain in the engine.

Welcome. I'm not surprised to hear that you have Fords in Canada - afterall they build them there

Running the coolant flush for only 10 mins would not have warmed up enough to open the thermostat and you should set the cabin heating to MAX for it to circulate through it.

The PCM theory is an even deeper rabbit hole vs the unknown condition of the spark plugs and coils. 2 rounds of plugs and coils of uncertain origin and quality = 2 rounds of uncertainty. Not having a reliable code reader is the reason why your diagnostics is floundering leaving you to guess and assume. Use the free app Forscan Lite which will work with many but not all OBDII adapters, even many of the cheap OBDII adapters. Amazon.com: vgate vLinker FD Plus OBD2 Adapter Bluetooth BLE Scanner for FORScan, Work with iPhone, Android, and Windows : Automotive

Welcome. What alternator did you purchase and from where did you purchase it?

I don't have an explanation for what you're experiencing but can confirm that none of the changes I've made using Forscan have reversed themselves.

If you're unsure of where the plugs were purchased then they're suspect in my opinion and would recommend they're replaced using ones bought from a reliable supplier such as RockAuto, and not eBay or Amazon. The knockoffs also come in Motorcraft boxes.

Welcome. Best get a multimeter and measure the voltage at the battery when you attempt a start. Also scan it for stored fault codes.

What a coincidence - this morning as I pulled off my driveway onto the road I got a Tire Pressure warning - pulled back into my garage and found a nail embedded in the rear tire. Switched to my Edge for the drive to work and will repair the bike tire when I get home.

Like these OEM plugs? Set of 6 OEM Motorcraft SP594 Ford CYFS12YRT3 Spark Plugs Replaces SP542 SP578

Those that have removed the wheel bearing hubs, what type of puller/extraction tool did you use and recommend? Mine is nowhere near as corroded as many I've seen in the YouTube videos, but with the aluminium knuckle there is likely galvanic corrosion. I'm looking at these on Amazon: Hub Remover Tool 5 6 8 Lug Wheel Hub Puller Kits, OEM#40100 | Steel construction, threaded force screw design, including washers insert plate, supports removal tasks, auto repair 8629 Wheel Hub Removal Tool, Wheel Bearing Removal Tool, Wheel Hub Removal Tool, Replace for ATD Tools. SGT 40100 Hub Remover Set,Wheel Bearing Hub Remover Tool Set Compatible with 5 6 8 Lug Hub Assemblies Rear Axle Bearing Remove Puller Tool Kit, Slide Hammer and Bearing Remover Set with Slide Hammer Yoke 78834 New Upgraded Wheel Hub Removal Tool, Wheel Bearing Removal Tool for All Automotive Wheels with 2 Press Feet, 2 M12 Nuts and Bolts, 2 M14 Nuts and Bolts .

I might do the CV Axles first and then if needed do the wheel bearings at a later date. Here's a video I found for the rear CV Axle replacement:

Wonder if its related to the TSB posted by @Haz

Thanks - Much the same results as Google - was hoping for something members could personally confirm .

My wife used my car the other day and remarked about the sound which prompted me to give more thought to changing the rear CV Axles, but I'm not 100% sure that's the source of the noise. It's a faint gear whine just like the front CV axles caused, just no where near as loud - its there all the time but just a little more pronounced when power is being sent to the rear. I'm looking at the below parts, which wouldn't be too bad if it ended up not being the source of the wine - if its not the rear CV Axles I'll be leaving it like it is until I sell the car. Anyone know of good YouTube videos for rear CV Axle replacement?

This is one of the modern "gimmicks" that I'm glad to have on my three vehicles. My Edge gave me an alert while I was on the I-71 and constantly displayed the current pressure as it decayed which allowed me to get off the interstate to install the emergency spare. My BMW K1600 motorcycle also alerted me when I had a slow puncture before it became an instability risk. Just last month my wife's BMW X5 alerted her to a slow puncture - allowed her to make it home for me to repair it.

I bought four off eBay and paid Big O Tires $20 a wheel to pop the bead on one side and install the four new sensors. Big O also did the learn procedure although I have the equipment to do that and this. Total cost for all four wheels $110 315MHZ for 2015-2020 Ford Lincoln 1.0L-5.0L 4PC TPMS Tire Pressure Sensor

Being a 2018 it past due for new TPMS sensors. You could have a place like AutZone scan it for codes and that would confirm the issue.

What are you using to read codes? What spark plugs are you using and where do you purchase them from?

Welcome @StahlMaster Looks like you got yourself a great low mileage SEL. How about a few photos?

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See @omar302 response - BTW when I was looking for the door code my local dealership informed me that it was a lengthy process for them to contact Ford Corp with my proof of ownership.

Is that in addition to your 2011?