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@EdgeAWD please add your year & model to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

@theoldwizard1 Please add your model & year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

I haven't heard of a software configuration that could be manipulated by the likes of Forscan. The RDU coupler can be disconnected which will make it permanent FWD.

No, they're not the same.

Just going by what can be seen in that photo I'd be very surprised if the strut is OK.

Not sure what you're attempting - do you mean to force it to stay in AWD which would be similar to a permanent 4WD ? I know that there's an app the BMW guys use to force it into 2WD (Rear Wheel Drive).

Sorry to hear that. I'm interested to see what position the insurance take on the BC Racing coil overs - my thoughts are that you could insist on OEM but doubt that they'll entertain any upgrades. It might consider it a liability risk to them in the event a non-OEM part results in a severe accident. Hope they don't use the performance parts to weasel out of their responsibility.

I did mine as per that TSB - its a robust fix. I had the collars in hand but they were too bulky for the available clearance around the shaft/tube - I had all the materials on hand to apply the TSB solution.

The only scanning device I have full confidence in, is Forscan and Forscan Lite. I cheap OBDII dongle and the free Forscan Lite is the most cost effective option.

The forums search feature is totally useless and don't expect any improvement from the owner. Use the forum's URL and the key words in Google. https://www.google.com/search?q=+Rear+subframe+video%3F++https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fordedgeforum.com&newwindow=1&sca_esv=ec9d3b8357a6f1a1&sxsrf=AE3TifO_xEB43XHU3Gt5bEm3E01PRgrjSw%3A1765228695621&source=hp&ei=l0A3aY-qI4moptQPhpPPsQM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaTdOpwoJHlVIPKVTQR8q1apYukjPrwDk&ved=0ahUKEwjP0eOq9a6RAxUJlIkEHYbJMzYQ4dUDCDE&uact=5&oq=+Rear+subframe+video%3F++https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fordedgeforum.com&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IjQgUmVhciBzdWJmcmFtZSB2aWRlbz8gIGh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmZvcmRlZGdlZm9ydW0uY29tMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAFI0awBUABY0Z8BcAB4AJABAJgB4AGgAcEEqgEFMC4xLjK4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgOgAswEwgIFECEYnwWYAwCSBwUwLjEuMqAH-QSyBwUwLjEuMrgHzATCBwMxLjLIBwOACAA&sclient=gws-wiz

@William Parks please add that to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Thanks for those links @enigma-2 This has been bugging me for a long time and I've seen two DIY methods that I'm considering. The one in the attached PDF uses 3/4" pieces of coolant hose with hose clamps, but I'm leaning towards the sway bar clamps. Just not sure what size sway bar clamps to get, 3/4" or 7/8" - might get both sizes off Amazon. Two-Piece Clamping Collar, Carbon Steel with Black Oxide Plating, 7/8" Bore Size, Set Screw TSB 18-2361.pdf

What makes you think this bearing is gone? From what I've seen when I recently replaced both front CV Axles, the bearing isn't replaceable without a transmission tear down.

What are you using to read codes?

What codes are stored? Does it happen all the time?

Please add that to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

@Blk22Edge , @edgeidiot and @koofwhat model/year do you have? Please add that to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/ .

Checked my records and the failed pads are Centric Posi Quiet - definitely avoid those. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/centric-posi-quiet-pad-delamination-on-both-sides-pic-included.356932/ .

Today I installed the RH CV Axle. The only battle I had was extracting the axle - all YT videos show smacking the inner joint with a hammer - I even went to Lowes to get a heavier hammer, and that didn't work - see the section of all-thread and nut in the photos - I cut a length of all-thread to fit snugly between the inner joint and a bolt head on the PTU, then holding it with a pliers I backed the nut out and as it reached the end of its thread the axle was free to extract - way better than beating on it. The I noticed the friction material had come off the outboard brake pad - went to Autozone and got a set of new pads - found the same thing on the LH. The LH CV Axle cured the vibration but I could still just a little at exactly 60mph with acceleration - that is gone now. The inner joint on the RH axle had similar wear divots, just not as deep - the lubricant didn't run out like oil as was the case with the LH, but it looked an odd brown color.

Pity the oncoming drivers that will be blinded using LED's in the low beams.