1004ron

No harm in posting here for everyone to see.

Who is that "someone"?

Its possible that while doing the brake work the ABS wheel speed sensor was disturbed/damaged but unusual for it to show 4 weeks later. Read the stored error codes and that might give you a better idea what's wrong.

I would also consider this option: https://reman-transmission.com/transmissions/ford/edge/2013/automatic-6-speed-3.5l-awd-id-da8p-7000-ra

That's unfortunate. Was that a Ford dealership? Have you had a discussion with the service manager regarding a discount for the $1,800 spent two weeks prior - they some responsibility regarding assessing the viability of spending that much. Any chance you can post the invoice/job card for the $1,800 work, with your personal details redacted? And the same for the replacement quote.

Please post links to the several recalls that you mention. Brake wear rates differ vastly between owners and that's why all manufacturers new car warranty is so limited when it comes to brakes. My models brakes are the same as yours, and I just recently replaced my rear pads for the first time at 103K miles, and the original rotors are still in use.

They should fit if you keep the offset and bolt pattern the same. https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=265&aspect=40&diameter=21&wheelwidth=9&offset=37&width2=245&aspect2=50&wheel_size=20&wheel_width=9&offset2=37

My 2017 Sport has ACC and Lane Centering, but the Lane Centering is not tied into or linked to the ACC.

Ollie45 you might want to try an OEM Motorcraft product.

We don't know what Model/Year Patrick Kopnicky owns, could be a 15yo vehicle.

What's the warranty section of your owners manual say for the mileage/time limit.

"in the morning it shows that the outside temp is 87C" - get the intake air temperature sensor checked and replaced if needed - this will make cold starts harder. Get the stored error codes read.

Even a cheap OBDII device with Forscan would work.

Mine has done something similar which was caused by the evap valve. What are you using to scan for stored error codes? - I ask because I've found most readers unreliable with my Ford, and now rely on Forscan for that.

Welcome. What Model and Year do you have?

Took about 1.5 hours to complete this morning. All the old parts were in really good condition and the only real sign of deterioration was the idler bearing, it had expelled a little lubricant and felt just a little notchy. There's no room to get a socket and breaker bar on the tensioner to retract it for removal and installation of the belt so resorted to two ratchet wrenches seen in one of the photos. No doubt these components were good for another few thousand miles but I cant put a number to it, so given the choice again I'd change them at the same mileage, 103,000 mi.

Try this site to assess the difference https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=265&aspect=40&diameter=21&wheelwidth=9&offset=55&width2=255&aspect2=45&wheel_size=21&wheel_width=9&offset2=55 The 275's would result in a ride height/circumference change that I wouldn't like, but would probably still work. https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=265&aspect=40&diameter=21&wheelwidth=9&offset=55&width2=275&aspect2=45&wheel_size=21&wheel_width=9&offset2=55 https://www.wheel-size.com/size/ford/edge/2018/

Bump

Mine has been faultless since June 2022.

Thanks @omar302 I decided to go with Motorcraft seeing as the existing components have been trouble free for so many years and miles, although I also have a lot of confidence in Gates. The tensioner in that example uses an external hydraulic damper which I believe will extend the life of the tensioner assembly compared to ours with an internal friction type damper.

In the case of my wife's BMW it was the tensioner doing a jiggle that drew my attention to the need to replace these components, and the reports that when the belt goes on the BMW engine it typically trashes the crank main seal. The failure mode that leads to the tensioner oscillation is a worn or contaminated (oil) friction damper - not a worn spring as many suggest. A previous vehicle of mine used a flat friction disc whereas the BMW use a friction drum - you can see in the attached photo of the old tensioner that I tore apart. The tensioner's bearing felt and sounds rough while the idler felt and sounded smooth.

Thanks - appreciate the practical tips. Just done the same on my wife's BMW X5 and the Ford isn't going to be nearly as awkward. Ordered all Motorcraft from RockAuto.com.

With 103K miles on my Sport I'm looking to replace the serpentine belt kit. I'm leaning towards Motocraft or Gates - anyone know the best place to find a kit or should I just go with buying the three items (belt, tensioner and Idler) on RockAuto.com ? @Haz would you be able to help with more detailed instructions?

You say it "cranks" and then a few lines down "it does not turn over" - those are conflicting comments. Pull the spark plugs and try turning it manually with a wrench on the crank. If the "no crank" started with the new starter, then I'd take a very close look and compare the bendix gear to the old starter. I guess your friend has learnt a life lesson never to buy a used vehicle that doesn't have a good service record.

The one in the link I posted has a "Timeout lock" so that the 3rd brake light behaves as if it doesn't have the flasher module if in traffic where the brake is used repeatedly - mine are set to flash rapidly three times then solid, and will not flash again if the brake is applied for the next 30 seconds.