BAYLENSMAN

bought a used fusion mirror off of Bay now everything works again. $30.00 fix

where is the compass module on these cars. its not behind the mirror like other fords. Is it inside the mirror itself or maybe in the dash. Either way I 've got the calibration error that will not GO away

I had a similar issue along with nasty torque steer. I changed tires, both axle half shafts and the longer jack shaft and bearing also 4 out 7 motor mounts. 3 alignments at different places, balanced the whells a whole lot of times, it got to the point where my wife didn't want to drive anymore so we switched cars. I took hers to a friend of mine and begged him to take one last look at everything. While sitting still, he found the steering wheel had too much play but still had resistance, not freeplay, but the steering wheel moved a good 15 degrees. it turns out the inner rubber on both lower control arms had collapsed. It wasn't visible with the car up in the air and there was no rattle as the outer bushing still had some life in it. well $750 later with new lower arms the car rides and drives like new with no torque steer no rattle or thunk when braking or hard acceleration. Not saying that's what your is but worth a look.

If you run one these and its like most of the others, it does spoof the sensor and therefore the computer into changing some response to give an impression of higher performance( i say impression because its not a uniform boost across the operating range, just off line throttle responses). Fords biggest advantage in their computers controls is what is called "adaptive" strategy. The computer learns what is going on and continues to make adjustments, so that a car with 1K miles or 100k miles will still run and usually pass emission standards and give reasonable drivability. Often times after a change of plugs and coils on a high mileage vehicle it will take the computer several start run stop cycles to readapt, which frustrates the bejesus out of mechanics. The point of this is taking the over-ride out of the system for a quick trip to the dealer may result in poor performanc,e and while not throwing a code may show some out of whack parameters on a dealers machine. Having dealt with computer tuners of all types since 1985 (last year of any carberated ford). I can tell you in the long run a true tuner of any brand that actually lifts out and stores your factory tune and replaces it with a custom tune will give you much more performance and enhanced drivability over the life of the vehicle. Many of the new tuners allow shift on the fly between several tunes (towing, daily driving, race act). I'm no longer in the car biz, so i'm not promoting one brand over another.

It appears to be only the defrost on the passenger side. driver's has warm air passenger just air volume seems about the same just the temparture is different, which is weird because from the few poor quality pics i've gotten of the dash layout both side appear to feed from the same outlet? i do have the dual zone electronic climate control.

So all of a sudden the passenger side defroster just blows air. not hot not cold just air. The drivers side works fine. I am assuming that there is a duct not opening correctly. If its pushing air but not getting warm. does any one have any idea? or a diagram of the vents and were the ducts flappers and air motors are?

At this point you probably need a dealer or some professionally to reset the "immobilizer" parts of the alarm system. When the "helpful" lot attendant disconnected the transmission while the battery was dead the system locked up as if being stolen. As far as a big spark when setting the positive cable, well something is drawing power. If the battery went dead again after installing new, there is something else in the system that screams for a professional diagnosis. We could all chime in here and give opinion but without doing a pin point check of various systems and circuits it would be fruitless. At this point a tow job to a dealer or mechanic you trust will probably save money in the long run. Good Luck

I don't know the proper term but the large ledge like extension over the rear window is black the rest of the car is silver. What's the best way to seal/clean/wax refinish this short of re-painting. the under side seams to be a smooth black (not quite gloss but still smooth) similar to the panels around thee rear side windows. the top side however is so rough that it grabs threads out of the micro fiber when drying it. Ive tried Magic black and past wax so far with little result. Do i need to sand with 600 and re clear i? or is there some special way to finish it.

this is the compartment i think from reading thats it is an 07-08 only thing. I found the lid from ford

So i see that the models with the THX sound systems had an available dash storage bin. I have that on my 07 Freestyle. Can I add that to a standard radio car? I have an 08 MKX base with SYNC 1 and sat radio but not THX.I have just a large pad in the center of the dash. Plus any tips on how to remove the center pad/ to see if i can fabricate something?

Continuing the quest, what have people used in the past to get navigation and backup cameras into the 07/08 models?

Along the same lines, my older lincoln (96) the auto function on the headlight turned them on when ever the car started day or night. Is there anyway to SPOOF the 08 to do the same?

Just asking!!

Ha I have just the opposite I'm 6 ft even and the console hits my right knee at just the wrong spot. plenty of room for my size 13's on the left. I feel console is about 1 1/2 to wide on that side. Even a padded console would help!

A RIGHT AND LEFT OF THIS IS WHAT I'M LOOK FOR!