MetalAnon

Thank you for the replies. I had not considered the tensioner, but as I was reaching in to check the belt tension, my arm brushed up against the coolant overflow hose, that plastic line that run across the top of the engine to the stat housing, it snapped like a twig. So my attention turned to that.  Found a new line at the local stealer shop and proceeded to start the repair. 

However, when removing the line from the stat housing, the end of it that interfaces with the hole, broke off inside the port, so now the new line will not seat. Fucking planned obsolescence!!!  

 I have tried everything I can think of to get the piece  out. Picks, screw drivers, compressed air, I even tried turning a screw into the damn thing like a puller, to no avail.  It is stuck!   I really, REALLY want to avoid damaging the thermostat housing for obvious reasons.  Thus, my tentative approach to remove the stuck connector end, but I gotta figure this out. 
 

Here’s a couple pics… if more pics needed let me know… any ideas?

then I will check then tensioner… ffs.  

2016 Sport… new batt, alt and belt less than a year ago install by our local stealership.  Belt randomly started squeeling a bit while idle at a stop light yesterday.  No codes.  I connected a voltmeter and found, while idling OR under acceleration, any amount of pedal, the voltage is ~11.5 volts, discharging.  However, if pedal is lifted completely, coasting, at speed over ~5 mph, voltage goes to ~13.4 volts and remains there until applying pedal again or coming to a stop.  Almost as if throttle body is shorting out, although I can’t explain what’s causing the volt drop at idle.  It’s not draining the battery enough to cause starting problems, but it is definitely hitting the batt hard as it read exactly 12v after sitting over night.  
 

Turning on amp hungry systems such as seat heaters or fan on high seems not to have any detrimental effect and everything seems to be functioning properly besides the voltage dropping below 12 volts like it is.  
 

Also, while investigating this, I noticed that the battery warning light does not illuminate during the start up self test.  It seems like it should and I know it works as it lit up and flashed properly when I reset the BMS last night.  That didn’t seem to help.
 

Can anyone please verify that the battery light does indeed come on momentarily at start up?  It should I’d think, can’t find that particular info anywhere, just want to be certain.

Any input on this weirdo issue is requested.  Thanks ahead of time!!!

GREAT post @Haz!   It's been awhile since I checked on this thread, but I have been thinking about an idea in the interim that I have not seen anyone else bring up... and the workshop manual informations piqued my interest further, should be quite helpful.  Specifically, I am seeking to make use of the DRL positions (inboard spots in the housing) since I personally disable the DRLs and they are wasting space.  I'm looking to make the those inboard positions function as and with the high beams, in addition to the (low/high shutter) high beams in the outboard positions.  So that when the high beams are activated, our Edge would have four bulbs to throw an obscene amount of forward light down the road.  So since I have swapped out the factory D3S HID bulbs to aftermarket LED D3S bulbs which simply plug n play with the factory HID ballasts.  The shutter the HIDs utilize also made the swap easier and the LEDs work supremely and considerably brighter than the OE HID bulbs without blinding oncoming drivers.

I hadn't considered Ford's use of the Field Effect Transistor (FET) in the BCM, so ironing that out may require additional brain power but I'll cross that bridge once im there.  So the idea is to splice a pigtail into the HID high beam wiring and install it in the DRL position but I haven't examined it in detail yet.  I just wanted to post something about it while I was here and had it on my mind.  Damn life has been hectic lately and I have been known to forget things before I get them down on a bar napkin.  Should prolly start another post for such a project but I thought this thread would be a good a place as any for sharing.   Ok now I gotta get some sleep. 

Could this be the problem?  I realize this is a 2.0L Ecoboost in the video, but like he says, this rattle he refers to is not an engine problem it a turbo problem and could easily happen to a 2.7L Ecoboost.  Not sure if this is your problem but at least you can compare the sound.  HTH

On 2/22/2023 at 8:09 AM, Summers22 said:

So is it okay to run H11 HID in the low beam spot if DRL is disabled through the cluster? 

Disabling DRLs through the cluster only affects the inboard (high beam position) and should not have any influence on the outboard bulb position.  At least on our 2016 Sport with factory HID projectors, that’s how it works.  

Solution to this problem...

On 6/3/2017 at 12:13 AM, enigma-2 said:

I believe it usually means that one of the doors are not closed. Possibly a door switch is going bad.

I just came across this FordTechMakULoco vid yesterday.  It's not directly the same problem, but Brian explains the door/hood switch issue common to our beloved Fords.  Interesting if not helpful at least.  Hope it helps someone.

www. youtube.com/watch?v=xBc_QHj3wlM

I bought these for our 2016 Sport... LOVE 'em!!!    Bullvision D3S LEDs 45w per bulb (90w per pair) 6500K... Direct replacements that use the factory HID ballasts.  100% Plug n play . They are much brighter and whiter than the miserable factory HIDs and match our signature lights down below. We've had not a single issue with these bulbs what-so-ever for almost two years in MN.  Through our hot and humid summers clear down to -14F degrees ambient temp, (-40F with wind chill) just a few days ago.   Not even a flicker!   Hope this helps! 

LINK:   https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802757275161.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.65.463718025ADulY&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US

On 1/5/2021 at 2:33 AM, Cerberus said:

Fair enough

But being an ASE master tech (professional mechanic, with decades of experience)  i was not looking for support, just offering my professional opinion.

Do with that what you will

On 1/6/2021 at 8:26 AM, Cerberus said:

True, but I'm sure you've heard of the 3.5L timing chain driven water pump failure causing oil contamination with coolant and subsequent engine failure, as actually did happen in my 2011 fusion sport.

And yeah, I'm slamming Ford's engineering savvy of putting a water pump inside an engine, such that it water pump replacement requires drivetrain removal. 

I could go on but I've already made enough people here defensive and dislike me for speaking the truth, so no one is likely to give anything I say any credence anyway.

 

pissing people off, its like my superpower.

Not to nitpick an "ASE master tech", but I think you mean valve train?  I'm pretty sure the "drivetrain" needs not be removed to do the 3.5L water pump.  Just sayin'.  ?

Welcome!  Good to see another Minnesota Edge pilot joinin' the fray. 

On 1/2/2022 at 9:02 AM, omar302 said:

 

They are not the same person, each has a ton of contribution in the Ford Edge Forums.

@WWWPerfA_ZN0W & MACT @macbwt

Whoops, my bad for confusing this. ? Thanks for pointing out my mistake @omar302, will help for future reference indeed. 

Found this on the Forscan forum, apparently there's even a TSB that addresses the greyed out climate control menu options within remote start menu... https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11666

Turns out @WWWPerfA_ZN0W (not MACT  lol) shared this TSB previously here...

On 12/22/2021 at 1:06 PM, omar302 said:

 

The H15 bulb is a dual filament bulb. 55w & 15w. The DRL function uses the 15w filament only. The 55w filament unfortunately is not utilized in the Edge .

Thanks man... you are a wealth of knowledge!  That setup then seems kinda wasteful from an engineering standpoint.  Guess I'll have to do some digging to find out more about the housing's durability.  OR... perhaps, since the H15 is dual filament, we could simply run a jumper and/or relay from the high beam circuit to that unused 55w filament... things that make ya go hmmmm....? 

Thanks for the reply @omar302!

On 12/15/2021 at 12:32 AM, omar302 said:

" First, this only relates to the 2015-2018 Edge, because 2019+ have better LED headlights and as far as know, both are considered Gen2. "

  I guess I hadn't really considered it since we don't have a 2019, but I certainly want to avoid passing along any erroneous info so thanks for pointing that out!  

 I'm guessing that the weak performance of these HIDs is likely due to their age.  They clearly fire up very bright, but then quickly tune down once they have started.  Not sure if that is indicative of tired bulbs or ballasts or both, I'm learning HIDs as I go.  Like I mentioned, I have not dug into the lights yet, it's been ridiculously cold in MN the past couple weeks, but I will soon in order to determine what hardware is indeed installed currently.  I appreciate the recommendations, I've read quite a bit about both the Night Breakers and XtremeVisions, but coming from halogen equipped cars, I find $200+ for bulbs less than palatable and likely only a serious last resort option and despite the numerous videos out there showing increases in brightness with the Night Breaker in particular, I find it hard to believe the bulbs by themselves can increase brightness without boosting the power feeding them.  But again, I'm learning HIDs as I go.  TBH I am puzzled that there seem to be zero direct replacement ballasts over 35 watts for the Ford applications.  I would think the market for 55w+ direct replacement ballasts would be a sound one. 

As for the DRLs (which I mistakenly called H11 in the post), the H15 seems to be a 55w bulb so I would assume the reflector housing for that would be substantial enough to home a 9005 or the like.  I think I might see what I can put together for the wiring to repurpose that inboard bulb position to come on with the high beams.  I can't imagine it would be too difficult with the proper schematic and perhaps a relay run from the high beam switch for the additional load.  I'm curious anyhow.

Installed Weathertech window deflectors (part #80796 front pair only) on the front windows.  Chose only the fronts since I read many reports that the rears create a lot of wind noise.  Installation was easy enough, made sure the front lip was installed on the OUTSIDE of the window trim (as the instructions emphasize and a brightly colored sticker on the deflector itself).  I did wind up with a couple small chips broken out of the rear end of both deflectors, the part that installs in the channel, so its not visible from the outside and does not effect form or function.  It seems the thickness of that portion of the deflectors could have been a touch thinner, but I'm happy with the end result.  

I could have probably made two posts for these questions, but I figured since they are both headlight related I'd just consolidate them into one.

Question 1)   What are our options for upgrading factory HIDs?

   So, we've had our 2016 Sport for bout 7 months and absolutely LOVE it.  We are optioned with 401A and have the factory HID projector headlights which seem dangerously dim.  Some nights, we can't even tell if the lights are actually on (besides the indicator light on the dashboard).  Pariticularly on rainy nights when the roads are wet, both of us on several occasions have had to cycle the headlight switch to be sure the lights on indeed lit.  It's creepy to say the least.

Our Edge has 125k on the ticker so I'm inclined to think that the original bulbs, at minimum were previously replaced at least once. I have not physically checked myself, but based on the performance, I'm assuming the ballasts are the stock 35 watt units. So I intended to resolve the issue with new D3S bulbs and upgrading the ballasts to 55 watt or better.  Seems simple enough, until I actually started looking for 55 watt ballasts, I cannot for the life of me find a single, DIRECT replacement, higher than stock (35 watt) ballasts any where.  I spoke with a tech at TheRetroFitSource.com and he told me that I would need to buy an entire conversion kit made for the halogen conversions in order to boost the ballast wattage, but I find this hard to believe.  Additionally, the factory HIDs mount the ballast on the underside of the housing and the ballast is used to seal the access point for the ballast connections, which are both INSIDE the housing.  (See attached images)  The aftermarket conversions all seem to have there connections made OUTSIDE the housing and they seem to be mounted away from the housings and not mounted on them which begs the question, how exactly are the ballast connections made without removing the original ballast and thus exposing inside the housing to the elements? Thus my posting here... Any input on this issue is requested!

Question 2)   Has anyone yet sought to repurpose the apparently useless DRLs (the inboard headlamp location on 401A optioned models (factory HID)) to function as secondary high beams?  If not, what associated upgrades (improved wiring, maybe add a relay) would be advisable or required to support a proper high beam bulb in place of the DRL H11?

   In my quest to solve the above problem, it came to my attention that the "signature lights" in the front bumper were not the DRLs as I had assumed.  Because I disable to DRLs (we have the signature lights for that) the inboard headlight bulbs are just sitting there wasting space.  This made me wonder if I could make better use of that bulb by repurposing that particular circuit to be powered on with the high beams to supplement the HID high beams.  Any thoughts on this potential mod would be greatly appreciated.

On 1/10/2018 at 4:15 AM, Nick Halstead said:

 

 

Well lets see the proof for beautiful then.... words dont show any cutoffs or hotspots

4 years later but here's some proof... Bulbfacts.com a non-biased third party comparison of current LEDs and how they stack up... cutoffs, hotspots, color temps, even the complete beam patterns.  Hope this sheds some light (pun intended ?) on this issue. 

On 6/2/2021 at 5:31 AM, onyxbfly said:

In addition to what Omar and WWWPerf mentioned above. Assuming that you are not the original owner.  If you think/ believe that your edge was originally equipped with HID, I would suggest going to a dealership and having them run the VIN and ask them to print you a build sheet.  That would be the final word on whether or not you have factory HIDs.

 

Your build sheet will be beneficial because it will tell you what options and features your particular model came equipped from the factory.  Or you can go to the parts department (or call) and ask for a replacement HID bulb. 

 

Also, in addition or perhaps in lieu of the above, if you'd rather not visit a dealership, @hyperc32, or anyone else for the matter, check my previous post... you should be able to get a hold of your original window sticker to determine what options your Edge was equipped with from the factory.  HTH!

A couple years late but I found a thread over on Blue Oval Forums to be exceptionally helpful... provide your VIN and user "ice-capades" will kindly provide your window sticker if it's available as soon as he can. 

https://blueovalforums.com/forums/index.php?/topic/63182-window-sticker-requests/

Enjoy!  ?

On 4/25/2018 at 8:21 PM, Xtra said:

Here is an interesting video on Blow Off Valves and why a duel port BOV is the best choice for the Edge Sport.

He does not mention that the catalytic converter can overheat when backfiring .

 

Geez, can't figure out how to reduce the size of the video....  anyhow. 

I was just looking for information about my new to me 2016 Sport and came across this thread and video, something came to mind.  Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Edge 2.7L doesn't meter air entering the engine using a Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor.  Instead we use a Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor.   I can't help but wonder if this BOV video is exactly accurate to how it functions on the Ecoboost and what might be different from MAF to MAP...?  

On 4/10/2021 at 6:36 AM, niceonept said:

Welcome to our Forum.

Interesting pic ; is that your Edge?

On 4/11/2021 at 9:02 AM, Cptmorgemaker said:

Welcome confused by the pic 

Yep, that's the new Edge.  The woman was driving home early in the morning with no traffic, so I thought I'd check to see how well MNDOT's new video feeds were working... the pic is a screenshot from the MNDOT Cam Feed - U.S. 52 North at Plato Blvd. (Hopefully that link works) just south of downtown Saint Paul, whose skyline is just visible at the very left of the image (and as of writing this, the current live feed as well.)

We just purchased a 2016 Edge Sport and are here to learn and share knowledge.  This place seemed like a decent place to start.